Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Out here you can get them at Ace hardware. If you change the gasket, torque them to spec, then run it for a day, they will loosen a little and retorque. This is the only way I have kept from blowing out gaskets. I always check them after a few heat cycles.
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A 16" lo profile tire is still smaller is diameter than a factory 14". Even if you went with an 18" I still think a 4.38 is to low. If you are set on this I would run a 80+ 5 spd as they have the taller 5th gear. If you already have the turbo you can pull the compressor and turbine housing off and measure the wheels then go to the Turbonectics site. Then you'll know what you have. I don't believe nitrous will help reduce the chance of deto, yes it is cold but it also is a power adder which increases the burn rate, and just like with more boost you still need to retard the timing as more is added. I guess it will help spool up the turbo though, but if it is sized correctly then it shouldn't be much of an issue, once you're in the power band there shouldn't be lag and you're good, if you desire alot of boost at a worthless 2000 rpm then it will help. There is a gear calculator here, It's a 4x4 site but it works http://www.cosports.com/fwhldr/equipcalc.htm
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"Cartech turbo" is a little vague. 3.5" ex is big, 3" is enough and is easier to get mandrel bends for. I think 4.38 is way to much gear for a street turbo car. I wouldn't do more than a 3.90. If you are just going to do a 25hp shot of nitrous, I wouldn't even bother. I run Schneider springs and have no complaints. I wouldn't bother with water injection if you are running an intercooler unless it's a drag car. It gets old keeping up with filling a tank on a street car. My $.02
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Those are huge in/outlets, is it a Superduty intercooler? It would work though, just about anything will work to get 350rwhp, depending on the boost.
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You've got mail
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hey can we see a pic of your custom intake?
tbs
Ya, if someone can host a pic I can send it.
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It's an unknown, 130k + mile junk yard long block. I port mached it to a custom intake manifold and cleaned up the ports, opened up the ex bowls, unshrouded the valves, and changed the stem seals and put my old Schnieder valve springs in, I never pulled the oil pan. Stock ex manifolf with a T4 flage welded on. T4( V trim comp, .69 a/r O trim), 3" ex, Deltagate wastegate, MKIII Supra intercooler, 25* total timing, shitty efi with an HKS AIC for the 2 550's. I have run 20 psi many times on the last motor (RIP) running a Conquest intercooler and not so ported head. I will post the results of this one in with in the next month when I get the 550cc injectors and SDS setup so I can crank the boost up.
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I lost a dampner while road racing, which stopped spinning the water pump. I checked the gauge at the end of the straight (long straight) and the temp was way past 240* I'd guess 280*+. I warped the head, holed a piston and most of the piston chunks stuck/ bonded to the head. I'm not trusting stock dampners any more. I just put some Az Z Car pulleys on. I will find out if not having dampening is worth the trade for a reliable crank pulley. I have only had the car on a dyno, so I can't give any long term feedback yet.
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why on earth is your toruqe so low it doesn't even exsite from about 4k-5k.
tbs
That's no the torque. It's the air-fuel ratio. The other is HP. The torque curve is on another sheet.
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It's dangerously lean up top and I had the wastegate set as low as it would go(15psi). I won't be running it again till I get SDS in with 550's. This is with 6 260cc and 2 550cc inj, and they are maxed out. Max hp was a lean 368.5. If someone can host the pic or post it that would be nice.
Clifton[/img]
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I think I'm running the same Yoko slicks you are. Mine are metric but measure the same, 23/10/15 actually about 9.5" wide. Mine were really soft when I first ran them but they have got a little hard. I just used that Formula V on them, but won't run them till next weekend. It has softened them up alot. When they stiffen up I would have the Formula V ready. I would also set the rear, if you can to 0% camber. I tried running .5-1% neg in the rear and had traction problems going straight and this just road racing. You don't want camber for the drags if you can avoid it.
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Do those injectors have o-ring or hose ends' date=' and what do they flow?[/quote']
supra injectors are good they're o ring and flow 550cc sidefeed
MKIII turbo injectors are 0-ringed but only flow 430-440cc. MKIV turbos are 550cc but are side feed.
If you want 400, build it for 500hp so you have some room to grow and aren't at the limit of the inj, and turbo.
I would run atleast the MKIII or larger before the SVO's. They are cheap, every one with a MKIII Supra upgrades to 550's or larger. A 440 cc inj will make roughly 440 hp on a 6 cylinder, 550cc + 550 hp and so on. Or run additional injectors with an HKS AIC and leave the factory computor in place. If you want to make 400hp which is easily obtainable you need a lot of fuel, a big turbo and 20+ psi. I would leave the T3/T4 for the Honda guys and get a full T4 with an external WG (Tials are around $220), atleast 60-1 and don't go larger than a .69 if you are worried about lag. I would skip the fancy avc boost controller and turbo timer as neither make you any more HP. A manual boost controller works fine and don't shut the car off right after raging on the turbo. A metal HG isn't neccasary neither is the flywheel. You will need a clutch and press plate though. I went with Clutch Specialties for the price and am very happy with it.
For Supr inj. http://www.supraforums.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&forumid=42&x=14&y=8
For clutch http://clutchspecialties.com/, just call it's easier.
For the best prices on turbos, Arizona Turbo, 1-888-253-9950, don't know the web site.
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I don't have any first hand experience with it but I know az z car has them too. http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html
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I run a welded diff(R200/3.90). I use the car for road racing only. I don't think I would do it on a car that sees street use as it does scrub the tires and clank some when going slow and turning sharp, like in the pits. On the track I love it and have no regrets. As someone mentioned it does give a little more push in the slower turns but that's easily fixed by softening the front/stiffening the rear, and the extra traction on corner exit more than makes up for it. I've run it for over 7 yrs with out any problems or regrets. As for the viscous, I've read in an old Grassroots Motorsports mag that when used in road racing they create to much heat, more than the clutch types making the clutch type are a better choice of the two.
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My 240's only purpose is road racing. You can easily make enough power with a V or H trim. 60-1's are nice and can make more power but the 400- 450hp that a $400 V or H T4 will make will be enough to take nearly anything on the track. I wouldn't waste my time with a T3/T4 they are for street Hondas, go with a full T4, they spool up fast enough. T3 turbines/wheels are too small making them to sensitive at part throttle, you'll go from 1 psi to full boost with barely any change in throttle on an apex or exit, makes the car really hard to drive. Unless you are running SCCA you don't hve to run track fuel. I do just for extra insurance against detonation. You don't NEED an intercooler unless you want to run 10+ psi and make real power, race gas will only get you so far. The more boost the more heat and you need to get it out of there. I was running 20 psi through a Conquest intercooler. Ya, I know there is alot of pressure drop through them but the only cars capable of passing me down a straight are GT1 or equivalent cars, no street cars. I just put in a MKiii Supra cooler but haven't run it yet. There is enough airflow across the core that you don't need a big NPR cooler as you'll rarely be going slow except for maybe 1 turn. If your intentions are road racing a fast turbo Z you'll soon find out the importance of big brakes. I would use a 944t, GN, or MKIII intercooler and spend what you saved on some big front brakes. You can pick up HKS AIC's pretty cheap on ebay($200) to run extra injectors or go full programable but you'll need big boost to make big power. If you were going for a 1/4 mile car I'd spend every penny on a big turbo and intercooler. Arizona Turbo has the best prices I've seen for turbos too (I'm not affiliated in any way).
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I ran with out a muffler/cat, just straight 2.5' all the way back. It wasn't to loud but loud enough to keep me from getting on it with out giving a good look for cops. If you are worried about losing performance get a straight through glasspack type muffler. Not a cheap Cherrybomb. There are alot of good ones out there. On my car now I have a full T4 with 3" exhaust and ended up putting a round Magnum race muffler on it cause it was way to loud. The inside diameter is larger than 3" so they do not restrict in any way, but also do not cut the noise as much as a street muffler.
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Trigger? I wasn't trying to offend, just offer advice on payment. I've bought and sold alot on Ebay and have had people back out cause they didn't read or changed their mind after the win. The seller lists what payment options they accept. I noticed he had the Paypal logo, you only get this when you are set up for paypal and choose to put it in your auctions. If the seller won't take a CC as his listing states then I would not pay any other way and this would be Rated Z's out if he wanted.
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RatedZ you should of thought about this before you bid, as you entered into an egreement. He accepts Paypal but not COD's. Pay with a credit card and if it doesn't show up you can dispute it with the CC company and get you $ back.
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As for the L28 cams, the A cam has equal lift in/ex. The B cam has .015" less lift on the ex.
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What's your timing set at? What gas is it failing and what are the numbers? 18 mpg city sounds pretty good. You must baby that thing
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You might have better luck here http://www.fj20.com/ if no one on this board can help.
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SDS values
in SDS
What injectors are you running. I hope you're not going to go through the trouble of going stand alone and keep the stock turbo ones. If so, some one elses values are going to be different unless they are running the same inj. Most go with larger though as you'll have those max out at 12psi.
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There are MKIII guys making 350+ hp to the wheels on them and one guy had dyno sheets before and after adding an HKS cooler and the HP didn't go up much. I don't know why you would say they don't flow, there's like 25 tubes, there wouldn't be to much of a pressure drop. Don't know how efficient they are though. As far as "OE" intercoolers go they aren't bad.
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$900 should get you the complete car with motor. I wouldn't give him more than $400 it, maybe $500 with turbo. If it had 5k miles on it and it's been there since 84, why has it sat for so long when it could of been sold back 86' when these cars were newer and he could of got $1900 for the motor. Unless this guy was a good friend I would question that. I called 2 junk yards last week. One said $750 the other $250 plus core. I got it for $200 cash and didn't give a core. It came with manifolds and injectors, no turbo.
About the turbo. They all have some shaft play even new ones. It's hard to explain what a small amount and too much should feel like. So if you wiggle it and can fell some movement don't worry unless the impeller is almost touching the housing. You can get a full rebuild kit for $65-75. I think it's more important that the impeller isn't nicked up and worn from a poor filter and hasn't touched the sides yet. I've bought a few used turbos and always consider them as needing a rebuild. You have no idea of there past life and miles and doesn't cost much.
It's hard to give an opinion on what set up to run. You may be happy with the HP at 10 psi while I need 20 psi that would require you to take a different route from the start. I wouldn't be to concerened about the stock injectors and turbo though, as they are both to small to make big HP.
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is 2.5" piping big enough?
in Exhaust
Posted
2.5" is large enough for 300, but if your goal is more I would go with the 3" now. You don't want or need any backpressure after the turbo. On a stock 4 cyl turbo @ 7 psi 3" might be overkill but if you are after every last hp and don't want anything it interfere with it spooling as quickly as it can then get 3".I would also find a shop that can mandrel bend the tube, or use pre bent mandrel tube.