dylanh

Hi I changed my headgasket awhile back and I didn't make the chain wedge correctly and the tensioner came out I believe so my question is how do you pull off the front timing cover to fix this? It looks like pull off waterpump, the crank pulley, and then all remaining bolts including the two at the bottom on the oilpan is this correct? Is there any trick to do this without pulling off the front cover? The chain didn't jump teeth I believe. Also I'm located in Lake Charles, LA and if someone is nearby and willing to help I will pay for your time. Thanks!

darn....since I bought the car and it has a cam I do not have the cam card I dont believe which will make it impossible to time it correctly, right?

should I make a thinner block to try to really get down there and relieve the tension or? anyone have any advice? ps thanks for the quick and helpful responses.

I cant get the sprocket quiet high enough over the initial lip to worry about that yet. I'm quiet stumped, granted this is my first time pulling the head off.

I just replaced my head gasket and blocked the timing chain so it wouldn't move and now I've got the head back on but I can't seem to get the sprocket high enough to put back on. It only need about a 1/4 in higher to go on. Am I missing something?

Trust me I know how horrible it is, I'm pulling the head tomorrow and will take a good look at the turbo to see what kind of shape it's in.

.82 t3

Well I've seen back to back dynos and the graphs speak for themselves and the system would only cost around 5-700. The purpose is just a fun car to take out on the interstate.Plans are to be able to take it to events like tx2k night meets. Power goals basically is as much as I can get safely. I probably will also do a 109 race gas tune. I'm currently running a 60-1 with a stage v turbine but it doesn't fully spool until around 4k which revving to 6k leaves a very small power band

Also I am considering going with an air to water intercooler to minimize lag because of the tremendously short (1-2ft) of distance the piping would be between the intake and turbo. A friend of mine has had great success with this on his high hp daily driven mr2 spyder.

A buddy of mine is selling a new precision dbb 6262 at a steal and I'm curiousto see how everyone thinks this turbo will behave. The car is a 3.0l stroker 8.4:1 700cc injectors, vipec stand alone, water Meth injection, port and polished n42 head with a cam intake .488 lift 262 duration,exhaust 488 lift 252 duration with 114 lobe split, and 3.7lsd. From everything I've read this turbo spools better than a 35r and makes more power because of the billet blade design. I'll be using a spacer between the mani and turbo with an external waste gate similar to big phils

Well I'm not replacing the head gasket until I find the cause. I'm ordering a knocklink to verify if there is knock and doing leak down and compression tests Monday. Until then I'll continue to drive the car with 0 problems. Although I will not be going into boost. I bought the car with the motor already built. So the are things I need to verify.

Well I won't go into the problems the tuner gave me in the three and a half weeks they kept my car. However 16 psi with water/meth injection and an intercooler should have no cooling problems. Iat were way down and coolant temps were also under control however I'll get started with the leak down and compression tests. Thanks

That was my first thoughts too but the lowlifes who are supposed to be a tuning shop said otherwise. I guess I'll pull timing and go from there. What would you guys say conservative timing is above 12 psi? I'll have to pull my tune off of my vipec tomorrow and see what they set the timing to. One day I'll get knock detection...one day.

My car was getting dyno tuned and above 12psi the head started leaking coolant on the passenger side. It's a 3.0 stroker with a felpro gasket and arp head studs and the block and head were machined before installing so this really surprised me. So my question is should I get a mls gasket and new studs? Or could there be another cause. Thanks, Dylan

Spec stage 3+ is my personal preference. Stock diameter is rated at 480ftlbs I believe and 240mm is rated at 580ftlbs

This may be a dumb question but the adapters work with the z31 bellhousing? I know I've read alot of 240sx guys have to swap to the z32 bellhousing when using a z31 transmission for the adapters to work.

I've recently started reading about these setups as well and they seem very interesting although no one really knows how to match the two turbos its kind of just a guess and check thing. It would be really interesting on properly sized turbos so they are really running efficiently...

That is a good point about the BOV I suppose I never really thought about it. According to this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28001-t3t4-boost-lag-4k/?hl=stage+turbine&do=findComment&comment=216635 my spool actually is just about right considering its a t3/t4 .60 trim with a stage 5 wheel and .86 ar. I fixed my main boost leak all that is left is two small pinhole leaks in some welds. Can't wait for income tax to come in to get her dyno tuned at around 20psi!

I can hear my bov let off pressure when I let off at about 1-2psi so perhaps it needs to be tightened.

Its a large ebay intercooler for a 240sx flipped upside down. boost is coming on really slow and I found a large boost leak after this dyno. boost is still coming on slow thinking it has something to do with either the wastegate or possibly the bov is releasing some pressure.

Did a boost leak test today because after reading several threads I realized my car was spooling VERY slowly, and found I have a huge boost leak out of the coupler directly attached to the turbo. Hopefully thats why the numbers look pretty disappointing.

I bought randy77zt's car last year and here was the dyno. It was on 12psi and the water/meth was turned off. mod list here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108767-77-turbo-z-in-southwest-louisiana/ dyno graph here--> http://s52.beta.photobucket.com/user/wolfboy708/media/IMAG0475.jpg.html

So the fronts never rubbed?

SDgoods, how is your turning radius? you only have about 4.5" backspace so do you think you could've went with a more aggressive offset? love the car btw

Well I've been using an electric orbital sander and man, is it time consuming. Also, this La humidity is making it rust, I cleared over it with spray paint so I can protect as I go but apparently it didn't work very well. I need to find something other than rattle can clear to use until I get the whole thing done and have it professionally cleared.