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HybridZ

2_4680Z

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Everything posted by 2_4680Z

  1. I have two very nice SK surge tanks if you're looking to diversify.
  2. Doesn't need to be pretty. The cheaper the better. I will pay more for a Japanese made intake.
  3. I'm waiting on the title in the mail. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56155-1972-datsun-240z-clean-title/
  4. Search 1971 Datsun 240z on eBay...mine is the green one at buy it now. It will be an auction within two weeks.
  5. BNIB from Nissan Japan 510 "short stalk" chrome fender mirrors. Boxes still sealed, part number 96302-N0400.Email for photos, weremy.jilbur@hotmail.com
  6. I have heard good things about retro-spec parts so I made an order during their holiday sale. He beat MSA's prices and they're supposed to be shipped this weekend. I ordered an air dam and tall rear spoiler in glass so I can update when the parts arrive.
  7. Might be a long shot, but I'm looking for a set of snap-in stub axles for an R180 differential. They could be modified 240z/260z stub axles to match the newer K R180 snap in style from 4x4 trucks, the 200sx and JDM 180SX. I suppose a set of stub axles from these vehicles would work for me as well? There's a thread from about 5 years ago with a photo of a set. Thanks in advance
  8. Here's a roller http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/autos/datsun/240z/1971-datsun-240z-rolling-chassis-1971-600.00-4230.html
  9. That's a wild looking cage in there.
  10. Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks
  11. Where did you get those incredible door panels from? Sweet ride!
  12. Just as the title states. I want some triple mikunis with intake and linkage. Can be older / need a solid cleaning but I prefer to not to rebuild them. I have a budget of $1,000-$1,300 for the right set. They don't need air cleaners. Thanks. Please don't send me a PM. I don't check them enough. Please reply with pictures to my email and your price. weremy.jilbur@gmail.com Thanks
  13. Glad you solved your problem. I read about those screens but how can the rust make it through the first fuel filter, through the pump, then get stuck right before the carb? Maybe I am misunderstanding something. Do you have the FSM in hard copy or online? It helped me a lot to do a baseline balance of the carbs and there are some thorough diagrams of the SUs. My plugs were just as wet and black as you described since I bought it. I bought the Z Car "240z Tune-Up" dvd and did a half-way "tear down" of the carbs then balanced them. It took about 2-3 hours. After I balanced them with the meter, somehow (not sure if it was while driving it 50 miles in a week or during the tuning?) my front three champion plugs were completely dead and had me running on three cylinders. After putting NGK plugs in and gapping them, it runs so much better.
  14. I have a 1973 240z. Looking for an R200 in good (provable) usable condition and all other parts associated with the swap. Ideally a 4.11 or a 3.90. I've seen what these go for and am looking for a Christmas present to myself. I may end up at the pick and pull. Thanks.
  15. No money for the triple webers right now. Is that your plan? Still going with coilovers? I'm thinking Tokico Illuminas within the next 4-6 months. Btw I'm glad you kept your car too. I'd like to see some pics with the rims. The funny thing is...I bought this Z before that money came in...and now I'm getting the back pay on the first. I prefer to keep the SU's for a while. I don't mind tinkering with them as long as they'll get me from point A to point B. They along with the engine pull hard despite all the fumes. When I get new tires I'll drive it a little more spiritedly. Once I rebuild the carbs and get some 1974 flat top needles or SM needles, I'll make another decision. An L28 with or without a turbo is not out of the question either.
  16. Hello everyone, I've been a Z lover since I was about 8 and finally bought one. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. My first question to pose to you all is about the emissions equipment. The PO told me he bought it from the dealer with it all taken off, i.e. the owner before him did it. I need to know if this was "done right" and how it will effect my engine. Like most people trying to figure out their carbs, I seem to (after a full balance of the carbs) run really rich at idle, and lean further through the RPM range. It pulls pretty good to 90 m.p.h. right now, but I don't know how it should be. I haven't taken it any harder than that yet. After I balanced the carbs, including using the large balance screw as I believe it is called, on the balance tube, there was some slight air hissing/sucking through the port of that screw. I had to loosen the screw towards the end of the process per the FSM, but there is no hose attached to it. A mechanic friend that has had Zs and plenty of other cars over the years told me I need to plug that hole no matter what, and that the car is running entirely too lean. If you plug the hole with your thumb, the car will die. He recommended going back through and enriching/balancing the individual carbs with the hole plugged. Also, when I do this, should that balance screw be tightened or loosened all the way down? Also, the SUs I have are not flat tops. When did flat tops become factory installed? My car dates to right around June 1973 according to the VIN. My FSM says I can use a mirror to see the float levels, but I don't see them anywhere. Another thing I'm going to do is buy a timing light and attempt to do it myself. The car has new NGK wires, points, cap, as of 2 years ago. Thanks for taking the time to read this and any help you may offer. Here are the photos:
  17. Title says it all... I have $4000 right now. $7000 by December. Send detailed pictures of your "rust free" and description/location by pm. It would help if you replied to this post to give me a cl link or photobucket, etc. I'm not in a hurry because I know cash talks and I'm looking to throw down around 6 in CASH. Thanks guys and let's make a deal. I also have a 1956 Bel Air on cl which may free up more cash. Or trade.
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