mobythevan

In replying to this dead thread I realized the forum was screwed up in my display. Was showing really old posts as the newest. Sorry for the resurrection.

My forum browser was not showing pinned/sticky topics until I searched and looked at one. Weird. Here is the link, you should be seeing about 20 pinned topics in the megasquirt forum, if not then you are having the same issue I am seeing. Not sure how to fix it.

Cool, good troubleshooting. Sorry we couldn't help out.

Replaced the Odyssey PC680 battery. Putting together a plan for the 8.8 rear to upgrade. Torsen t2, new axles, 9 inch outers instead of c-clip elimniators??

Pics are back online through photobucket for a while, but may not be permanent so I am working to upload them here on the server and relink. Check out the article https://www.denverpost.com/2018/05/17/photobucket-image-hosting-plans/

Just make sure you charge the battery completely once alternator is fixed and make sure the battery is good. We had one vehicle run terrible and tried everything for weeks on and off only to end up being a bad battery that supplied low volts to the entire system.

It has been a couple years, the car is still in the same state as mentioned in this thread. It runs good, I take it for a fun ride once a month on average. I have all the parts together to take it to the next stage of the build but I had lost my interest in it when my son passed away on Oct 1st of 2015. Over the last couple years I have been working on cars with one of my sons high school friend. I helped this young man install megasquirt on his miata and then rebuild his miata. I gave him my sons car (90 eagle talon turbo) and I am helping him right now on upgrading it to megasuirt, FMIC, 22psi. I have slowly got back my interest in revisiting my rx7 and taking it on to the next phase. Maybe you will start to see some updates in this thread. I have been out of the community for a couple years so I have lost track of everyone and what has been going on.

Been helping one of my son's friends install MS2 on his 94 Miata. He has been doing all the work and I'm just filling in to help him learn. Got it running on Saturday. I've been out of the game for a while so it was a fun victory. Should be tuning next weekend. I am still around and working on megasquirt, who would have guessed, haha

Took the car to Pueblo Motorsports park to get 1/4 mile times. Tech'd in and lined up, but never got to race. They had problems with the staging lights and timing system. They don't expect to have the track working until September. ughhhhhh

Mazda never released the specs so I'm not sure, haha

Went out to the race event, but rain delays pushed back the 1/8 mile drags. They never did start before I had to leave. Still had a lot of fun. I must have been asked 50 times how big of turbo it has. lol

The car is back up and running. I took it on a 100 mile round trip in the heat and everything seems good. Might take it to a street racing event this weekend and try it in 1/8 mile drags.

You do not need the air flow meter or mass air flow. Megasquirt normally runs as speed density and only requires a manifold air pressure sensor (MAP) which is part of the megasquirt box. I use one of these air valves from an Rx7 for fast idle on my simple setups. http://atkinsrotary.com/store/images/D/N332-13-720Detail.jpg

If your cross country trip brings you through Colorado and you have some spare time I would love to talk over the Megasquirt setup with you. I would ditch the AFM, oem cold start valve and idle control valve. Start simple in that area and use a newer on/off air valve until you start to get more understanding of the EFI system. Then start playing around with nice to have features.

I think you are on the right track to back up and try something you know has worked in the past. When I have problems starting an engine with megasquirt I go back and follow the first start guide. Like others have said, verify timing with a light. And then work through all of the basics for first start: is MS set to correct firing order, priming pulse settings, cranking pw settings, cold multipliers, etc. You said plugs are wet, but we don't know the context. Did you dry them out and then crank for two seconds and see them wet. Or, did you turn MS on and off several times plus some cranking and then see them wet. Keep at it, we will try to help.

If you have any high voltage grounds like LS1 coils have, then ground them as short as possible to the engine. Don't run those ground wires back through the harness next to other wiring or you will get noise coupled into sensors.

Recently discovered that my used LS1 intake has had debris setting in it from the previously destroyed engine it came off of. I got some of this debris into 7 and 8 and damaged the top of the pistons a bit. I replaced those piston/rod combos with used 5.3 parts. Honed those two cylinders and did new rings on those two. I ordered a new Dorman LS6 style intake. I made a couple tries at cleaning out the other intake, but can still see junk stuck in it so it is going in the trash. While the engine and trans where out I fixed a few small things: added a drain plug to to the trans pan, added a piece of rubber between the steering rack and oil pan, very slightly ovaled my engine cradle bolt holes to properly fit the engine mounts and got correct bolts for engine and trans mounts. The engine and trans are back in the car. The new intake should be here before the holiday weekend. Here is some of the debris that dumped out of the old intake manifold, can't believe I didn't get more of it inside my 5.3:

Only new thing I did with this setup is install a toggle switch for E85 to Pump Gas. Now if I want to switch back and forth I pull into the filling station near empty and fill up with the other fuel type. I then start the car and wait for it to stutter, signalling me that the new fuel has made it all the way to the engine, then flip the switch. This works well for me, it only takes a couple seconds after firing up. Here are my notes: Tuner Studio indicator for tableswitch watches portH6, it is inverted. Meaning when the toggle switch is in the default position, down then it is open and portH6 see a high or ON state and this will be the base state for E85. When the toggle switch is flipped up then portH6 sees an OFF condition because the switch shorts the tableswitch wire to ground, this is the pumpgas position. E85 uses all 1 tables and gas uses all 3 tables. Went ahead and added warm up and after start to tableswitch. Now table switch does following: · VE table · Spark table · AFR table · Required fuel · Priming pulses · Cranking % · WUE % · ASE % · ASE taper Pumpgas required fuel 5.1 E85 required fuel (+34%) 1.34*5.1=6.83 Increase priming pulsewidths by 34% for E85

Working through more bugs, my rear wheel bearings are bad. Not sure if I have warped the axle tubes from welding on brackets. Will try a new set and see how long they last.

Finally finished up the rear axle alignment. It took me quite a while to develop some processes for levelling, centering, squaring and testing the watts link. I have to clearance a couple brackets to be able to get to the lock nuts on the LCAs. I put a couple lug nuts on each side to keep the brake rotors in place and then used a dial indicator to measure how well the watts link keeps the rear centered throughout the travel. At first the proportion of the two watts links seemed to be off with regard to the proportion of the arm that is mounted on the axle. After adjusting the proportion of the two links the rear stayed centered all through the movement of the axle (up and down using the floor jack).

Glad to hear your up and running. Good Job! Here is the map sharing thread from the FAQ section: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34536-megasquirt-map-information-sharing-all-code-versions/

If it is possible for you to disconnect your GB wire from MS and then measure it with the voltmeter while turning the dizzy very slowly, you should see the voltmeter go between 12 volts and ground as the slots pass. Not sure if that is easy to do with things installed. Once you connect the GB wire to MS it is possible that you have a voltage divider because of resistors that are populated on the mainboard tach circuit. I cannot remember off hand. However, try the experiment if you can and that would verify the dizzy and pullup circuit are operating as expected. I think you did this earlier in the thread.

Your resistor should be like this: 12 volts | | 1k Res | | GB--------------------------MS optical trigger input Is that how you have it wired up? The resistor does not actually drop the voltage to 5 volts. You would need a voltage divider circuit to accomplish that. You do not want to drop the voltage to 5 volts. So pullup resistor to 12 volts as shown on GB and then connect GB to MS trigger input and you should be golden. Let me know if that ascii schematic does not make sense. EDIT: Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side Red (12v) B/W White (MS trigger) G/B Green (not used) G/Y Black (gnd) Black B/W is connected to 12 volts and Black is connected to ground, these two power up the optical circuit inside the dizzy. Then every time the slot passes I believe the GB wire becomes connected to ground through the optical coupler in the dizzy. By having the pullup to 12 volts, the signal on the GB wire will go from 12 volts to ground as the slots pass by and back to 12 volts. This creates a nice 12 volt square wave to trigger the MS computer. You may know all of this already, I am not trying to talk down to you. I like reiterating this for everyone's benefit, including my own.

That doesn't sound correct. I must not be reading it right. You can't have 12 volt power coming from the coil positive and 5 volts also coming from the coil positive.