mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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cleaning rag stuck in the pipe? I am going to stick with the foreign object theory that veritech started.
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msefi should have some guidelines for setting dwell in MSII on a generic coil, probably GM. I would start with those settings and see if the coil is getting hot, or spark is too weak.
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I know that many times a non-name brand is made in the same factory and right next to the name brand product
yeah, like you said, just make sure you know that is the case. I have seen several threads on other sites about "some" of those cheap turbos and they are definitely not made on the same equipment, or have the same quality control. So just be careful, any of those places could have changed their quality control by now.
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ok, i did what you said. dropped the oil pump and spun it over one notch. but it was too far. 20* was still out of its range. so i filed down the bolt holes in the distributor so i could turn it more. now i'm at 16*. so its working. i just need to do a little more filing and i'm there. is there anything wrong with doing this?
Boy, all I can say is that I had a 260z engine that the dizzy would not lign up correctly and it turned out that the timing chain was not installed correctly, so make sure that you know the timing chain is correct. I monkey'd around and slotted the dizzy so the timing would be correct and then fired it up and the valves where hitting the pistons. That was back in the beginning before I learned to check my basics when something doesn't lign up. It bent one valve.
Bleachzee already said the timing could be off on the chain, did you have a chance to check it?
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That is a quality turbo that you linked the second time, I was able to find a rebuilt garrett turbo for about $450, so it is possible to save a little money. Just be careful on those cheaper units, sometimes they seem to work for people, sometimes they don't.
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I scrimp in a lot of areas, but I have never bought a cheap ebay turbo and I wouldn't recommend doing that to anyone.
A Turbo plus external wastegate plus BOV for $385 + $60 shipping does not sounds like something I would try, but if you do try it at least give a report of reliability/quality here on the group. It is always interesting to see what happens to these as they get 5K,10k, 20k miles on them.
Try as I might I cannot find out on that link what the turbine specs are, they only say that it is a TO4E compressor in a 70A/R compressor housing. You need to know what the turbine A/R is for sure.
Search a little more on turbo sizing based on your horsepower goals. I bought a TO4E 57 trim 60AR compressor with T3 63AR turbine that was clipped and I was very happy with that at 300-375hp level. To do it over again I would have went with the TO4E (50,57, or 60) trim in 60 AR compressor housing with T3 63 AR turbine stage III wheel. I think that is a pretty typical old style turbo choice for most people on here. They just vary between the 50,57,60 trim compressor wheels and stage 1,2,3 turbine wheels. Then it bolts right on to a stock turbo engine with only a spacer needed between the exhaust manifold and turbo and support upwards of 450hp at the crank.
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I would go into court with these thoughts:
If he didn't radar you or follow you to determine speed, then what is his case??
Driving too fast for unposted conditions? Again, what was your documented speed?
Are his eyeballs calibrated, if so maybe he works at baseball games calling pitch speeds in his off time.
But then I don't do very well in court so....
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Also i have heard rumors about having to use a speed density sensor rather than than the stock MAF. Where does this sensor hook into?
The speed density system uses a MAP sensor to measure maniflod pressure, that sensor is located on the Megasquirt computer and you just run a vacuum line to your manifold. Using the MAP sensor is that standard way to go with megasquirt.
With the Extra code you can possibly run a MAF meter instead, it allows support for MAF.
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That was in the ultimate turbo FAQ, it also has a better description in there:
fuel and spark only.(by the battery)
Fusible link box wiring:
Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive
G 12v power source. Positive
these two wires are the only ones needed from that big ol box, you can cut the other ones off to simplify.
(found right next to ecu pins)
Plug 2=Y start signal (+) --------connected this to the spade connection on the starter-have disconnected it and while the car will still start, it starts faster with it hooked up for that oem feel.
GL ground for inhibitor switch-----not needed.
YW speed sensor (not necessary) -----not needed.
Y A/C signal (+)
YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) -------goes to y/w on ignitor or ignitor - if you dont have the connector for the ignitor. other pin on ignitor goes to the ignition switch, you can use the existing b/w wire or other colored wire that is already there to supply the other side of the ignitor.
B fuel pump ground if using modulator-----not needed.
By the Battery
Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay ------- trigger wire for bosch relay ( substituted for nissan relay for easier replacement and standard relay wiring logic, in my car i used this to trigger another relay with a 10ga hotwire, L/R is what makes the fuel pump cycle for five seconds when you turn the key on, and is good to use because if the car stalls the pump shuts off after 5 seconds. L/R=blue/red,
G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator ----not needed.cut
W not used -----cut
Y not used ------cut
BW ignition signal (+): This wire is found connected to the green efi relay, cut this and wire it to on/start of ignition key switch.
now BOOST.
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I got the files from metro so I will be making a new stick so everyone has access to MSnS_Extra024s9 settings in an easy fashion.
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The thing that happens most often with the rich problem is that one of the yellow wires should only get 12 volts during cranking, it provides a cranking enrichment. When I first did the swap I had it hooked to 12 volts all the time and it ran so rich is would choke you in the garage with the door open.
the plug #2 start signal as shown below is what I am referring to:
The wires are as follows:Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive
G 12v power source. Positive
Plug 2=Y start signal (+)
GL ground for inhibitor switch
YW speed sensor (not necessary)
Y A/C signal (+)
YW coil (-) (must use ignitor)
B fuel pump ground if using modulator
Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay
G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator
W not used
Y not used
BW ignition signal (+)
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What did you have your lumpiness set at? I put my way down so that it would be smoother. Although this way it takes longer to tune it.
My injectors are soooo big (for olderthanme
)Any correction at all , even one tick (.1 msec without high resolution code) puts me out to lunch at idle or cruising. So maybe I could get the target AFRs in those areas to match where the car really runs and it wouldn't make an adjustment there. Or the other option is to only adjust above 3500rpm, but that would only work for autotune right, once the target AFR table is turned on I can't select any portion to ignore??
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cool, my afr target tables would not work during cruise and idle because my injectors are too big so it was bouncing all over. I just turned it off. I have 850cc injectors on the 4G63
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wow, uranus is much bigger than the earth
I know, that was bad, its one of those days
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I wondered the same question when I tried to use AFR tables, it seems that would be the case.
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The consensus right now is that MSI with MSnS_Extra code is better if your are doing stuff like turbo with nitrous/water injection/boost control/traction control/knock sense, etc
For normal engine or normal turbo setup MSII should be fine and one of these days the MSnS_Extra code will be supported on MSII and then it won't matter.
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Under general tab, lambda AFR settings, then it has a box for VE table1 and VE table3, turn both off.
I see that you do not have overboost protection set up under the general tab, also rev limiter values are not set, and you have it set to use MAPdot acceleration enrichment instead of TPSdot (that is OK if that is what you want, but at this point I don't think you understand what the settings do so research and make sure you want MAPdot enrichment)
I notice that you also have a fixed angle of 5 degrees entered, so with this code you will always have 5 degrees timing and not even run from the spark table, is that what you intended?
The rest of the settings look OK
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I tried that on my engine and it ran horribly, it would only run smooth with alternating and 2 injections, since he fried an injector diver it sounds like he is stuck with these settings, if it was me I would replace the driver.
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I have 370cc low impedance injectors.
OK, then 8.4 required fuel is correct for that, but you still need to change to alternating and 2 injection so the required fuel in the gray box is also 8.4
Also work through all of the other changes mentioned and then send me a new file if you are still stuck.
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I think people would be more inclined to use the posted settings if they were either put up as screen shots or, as I saw one person do, output a text file with all the variable settings in it.
That is why the basics are listed in the sticky in jpeg format for constants, ve, enrichments and spark timing.
Here is what I would like to see from someone out there that runs MSnS_Extra024s13 code (which was the last stable release before 029 code):
Could someone please capture their settings in jpeg format and post them up here and I will make the thread a sticky, again this is for 024s13 code and I would like to see constants, ve, ego, ASE, warmup, spark settings, spark table at least.
I had these settings, but sold my car before I copied the files over so someone else has to step up and help out now. I can do this for 021u code, but many things changed going up to 024s13(or 024s9, or 024s11, any of those vintage).
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I got the msq file you mailed me and I see problems from the start...
You have a theoretical required fuel of 8.4(white box), which may be OK, but tell me what size injectors you are using so I can verify that.
You have simultaneous injection and 3 injections per cycle which causes you to have a real required fuel(gray box) of 2.8 (NOT good).
Go to alternating injection and 2 injection per cycle, this brings up real required fuel to 8.4 in this case. That is much better, now you are not having the impact of injector on/off time enter in to tuning as much as you were with 2.8 required fuel.
Here is the section from the tuning manual:
Injections per Engine Cycle is set the number of squirts you want per engine cycle. You want this to be set so that your idle pulse width is no less than 2.0 ms, if possible, and your Req_Fuel is less than 12-15 milliseconds, but more than 8 milliseconds. These values allow proper tuning of the idle mixture while maintaining the ability to apply enrichments (acceleration, warm-up, etc.) under full throttlelet me know what size injectors you are running
here is something else you have wrong(from manual):
If you have low impedance injectors (less than 4 Ohms), set the:PWM Time Threshold to 1.0 msec, and
PWM Current Limit to 75%(30% if you have installed the 'Flyback Board' daughter card).
You will tune these after getting the engine running. See “Setting the PWM Criteria” in this section. Failure to perform these steps can result in damage to your injectors.
you have PWM time threshold set to .1 msec instead of 1.0 msec
I would also change EGO control to only be active above 1200rpm instead of 600rpm like you have, that way your NB sensor is heated up better.
Also turn of AFR target tables until you get the engine to idle and run
Here is the HUGE one I see: You have no ASE (after start enrichment), that is why it starts then dies. You only have it set to 50 cycles and barely have any percentage. Change to seconds instead of cycles and start with 15 seconds and up the percentages to like 15% at 40 degrees and slowly work that percentage down.
YOUR TIMING TABLE IS SCREWED:shock:
your going to blow up(at least blow a head gasket) if you run it that way, totally backwards, you have timing at like 17 degrees under no boost and then it increases to 31 degrees under high boost,
you want the exact oppositeTWO important things: read the tuning section of the manual again for setting the constants up correctly and look into the sticky at my starting timing table and compare it to yours. Notice how it is completely backwards, KABOOM, heh heh:lmao:. Pay particular attention to the MAP values, it doesn't matter which direction they are put in to the table, but it certainly matters that you have less timing at 170kpa than 100kpa for instance.
The last question for you: Why on earth are you hacking up an msq like this instead of downloading the one I put in the map sharing sticky for MSnS_Extra021u code and using it to start with??????? That one at least has ballpark settings for ASE, Warmup, spark, fuel, etc etc.
If my tone in this emails sounds mad you are taking it wrong, I got a good laugh looking through that file, and I'm just confused why you didn't start with known settings.
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They are T'd into the wires, NOT inline
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Are you using high impedance or low impedance injectors? If you are using low impedance are you using dropping resistors to limit current or the pulse width modulation? That may have nothing to do with it, but atleast make sure that is set up correctly. Wiring the injectors can be a little tricky with the splicing. I had copied the ASCI test diagram into the sticky guide which helps a little.
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The HEI does require the bolts thru the module to be grounded or it won't work.
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you want the exact opposite
PLease help me decide!!! please
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I think the z31 ecu swap is easier, but I have never done it.
I say run MSI with extra code if you decide to use megasquirt. MSII will control huge injectors better (high resolution). If you plan to run 1000cc injectors or bigger go with MSII.