mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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the diagram looks like i am taking a 12v from the battery, running a 1k resister, then t connecting it to the megasquirt trigger line,
Yes, that is correct
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You need the two resistors installed like the sticky diagram shows if you don't already have that.
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I thought you just set it back to narrowband and enter an EGO switchpoint of .5 volts
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BTW, did your old motor kick the bucket? I noticed you got an l28et now.
He just has so much money and time that he swaps back and forth between the two.
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Sounds good, thanks for the update and let us know if the replacement works OK.
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Looks like everyone likes Megasquirt I with pcb2.2
I think it is mainly because the install guide is ancient and it was written for the 2.2 pcb.
MSnS_Extra is NOT available for MSII yet, so that is another reason most people will stick with MSI on either 2.2 or 3.0 pcb. But it will be available at some point. Just research and see if you really need any of the extra functions available and maybe MSII would work for you.
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that's easy your plate says...9SECDSM
That's right, you are only allowed 7 letters so they couldn't fit the 1 in front
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here is mine without the blackout, heh heh
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great link, and it address the hysteresis issue:
That will turn the relay (assuming it is NO) on at 185, off at 180 (this keeps it from flickering on and off when you are near 185). You can change the threshold value to anything you like, of course. -
That may not work very good because you want hysteresis built into electric fan control(off to on and on to off temps to vary by a few degrees or more). The fan code for MSnS_Extra provides that hysteresis, otherwise you may have the issue of the relay kicking on/off spuratically when you cross the temp threshold and that will likely burn up your electric fan motor. I am only speaking from theory so you are welcome to try it and it might work. The FIDLE software didn't intend to pass the threshold more than once each time the engine was started and not in the reverse direction where the engine cooled down enough while running to require FIDLE to turn on again.
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The FIDLE output was intended to run a relay on the MS relay board, so why not use it for fan control, as long as MSnS_Extra allows you to select FIDLE output for fan control. What generally happens is that most people use the FIDLE pin for spark control, but otherwise that should work fine.
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You can check the volts on either of the LC-1 outputs with a multi-meter and they should read according to your AFR.
I did this for a while before I got a gauge:
Programmed LC-1 output to be 1volt = 10AFR and 2volt = 20AFR, then connect the multi meter and start the car, if multi meter reads 1.5 volts for example, then AFR is 15, if it reads 1.2volts the AFR is 12 and so on. That works well.
I would suggest you hook up a meter like that and also hook up the LC-1 to logworks and make sure the logworks readout matches the multi meter readout. Then you know you are good.
reading 28mv all the time does not sound right. BTW, do all of this without the LC-1 connected to megasquirt. Then if you connect it to megasquirt and it measures 28mv again you know the problem is in megasquirt
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You don't need a wide band to boost at 8.3:1 cr.
Maybe I'm just yellow, but I want a wideband at 15psi(assuming you meant 15psi from later in the post).
2500.00 will go fast, so keep the engine simple and spend the money where it counts, in the EFI system.On a budget? I would spend $150 and put MSnS v2.2 board in it and buy the LC-1 wideband for $200 for tuning. Unless there is a particular feature you want from the name brand EFI units (I admit the feature you want may be as simple as tech support, megasquirt doesn't offer that)
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And the O2 input works correctly with the stimulator board? That would remove any question about the megasquirt hardware.
Then use the software that came with the LC-1 to read the AFR while running using a PC.
That way make sure the megasquirt works correctly on stim and the LC-1 works correctly by itself.
The LC-1 has two outputs, I hate to ask the obvious but you are using the output you programmed right?
The other snag comes when you calibrate the LC-1 with the wideband sensor in the exhaust pipe (bad), did you calibrate with it out of the pipe? And are you sure calibration wasn't accidently kicked off since then when it was in the pipe?
I hit the button on accident with mine one day and had to remove the sensor and go through calibration in free air again.
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Why do you have to install the resistor in line?
I have read other places that without the current limiting resistor the circuity on the megasquirt side overloads the LC-1 A/D converter?? Mine did not work correctly until I added the resistor.
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Also, are you using a power inverter? I had heard that these cause so much electrical noise that they will actually reset an MS box.
Just to add more info to this post, I drove home last week 30 miles through town with a 300watt inverter running my laptop and connected to the MS through a 25 foot serial cable coiled in the passenger floor, so I could watch IAT and coolant temps. Not to discount what mario said, but just to relay my experience with the inverter.
I would also recommend looking at the circuit for the serial communications in the megasquirt board. Bad caps in the circuit? Bad solder joints? Solder joints always get broken on the connectors from plugging/unplugging causing the pins to tweak. If those check out I would replace the serial com chip.
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Sure, the oil drain and supply are small, but I just wanted to list one example, there are several small things like that and kind of like the nickel and dime issue they take some time to finish. Not a big deal for most people.
The piston and rings are the same(as far as ring land thickness), I have seen that myth dispelled with side by side comparisons of the two, maybe that was a comparison between the 280z and 280zxt(not 280zx piston). Compression would be another issue.
In the end I think you will be just as happy with a NA turbo vs the stock turbo. Several people have built them and I have not seen anyone that I remember off hand complain about their NA setup, but maybe some will chime in if that is the case.
I think Bleachzee is saying it is easier and cheaper 90% of the time to find a 280zxt engine and swap it in. If so, I agree with that. But that depends on what parts you come across first and what your goal for the car is.
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I personally would go whichever path presented itself first. In other words, if a donor car shows up for cheap, buy it, but if you come across a turbo header/turbo/etc first then go that route. I don't see a problem at all using the NA motor from a theoretical standpoint. It is nice if you want the car up and running quickly to have all the pieces. With the NA you have to mess with oil supply line/oil return line just as one example, that kind of little stuff just seems to drag on and on. My priorities are mainly driven by lowest cost and quickest time to hit the street.
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I have never taken the time to use the configurator, I am still use to the old days when you had to copy the msns_extra.ini file yourself. I still do it that way and it seems to work well. I was all set up to use 029xx code but chickened out and stuck with 024s13 so I am interested to see what you guys sort out.
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My friend has one setting in a chassis for a 32 plymouth in his garage. We are suppose to be getting it up and running with the factory ECU, but haven't had time. I think he paid right around 5K for it out of a truck that was wrecked. I think it is 2005.
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well, I do have the Talon now, so you never know. I was more interested in seeing how you made a 1G reliable, nevermind being fast
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My msq file in the map sharing post for MSnS_Extra_021u code was using 450cc injectors on the L28et. I would just tell you the pulse widths but I don't have the correct setup right now to open that file.
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I disable the O2 by entering an rpm like the 10,000 that badjuju mentioned. I disable the accell enrichment (TPSdot) by entering 20 volts/seconds in the TPSdot threshhold.
For spark, off boost, enter idle timing at around 23 degrees like factory and then ramp that up to 34 degrees by 3000 rpm and stay at 34 degrees until you have boost. Then as you enter boost remove 1 degree per pound of boost. That is a good starting point anyway.
What is your timing where it bogs? And where does it bog? (aprroximate MAP and RPM value)
My Talon was bogging around 2500rpm and 40 KPA (cruising) because the timing was set at 19 degrees(don't ask why it was so low). I changed that up to around 30 degrees like my rule of thumb above and that removed the bog. Always pay attention for pre-detonation of course, which is less likely under low load cruising conditions, so you can get away with timing like 40 degrees during cruising.
also, I verified that EGO correction and accell enrichment are turned off by watching the realtime display and looking at logs
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I don't use either one of those methods, I have my wife drive the car and I adjust the fuel tables as we drive. I have her cruise steady, adjust that area, cruise in different gears to get to different RPMs, go WOT runs in various gears. After about 20 minutes everything is tuned like I want it. 14-15AFR for cruising and light load areas, 12AFR for medium and WOT. Maybe dips into the 11's a little when boost is over 12psi. BTW, I turn off all accell enrichments and EGO correction while tuning like this(just like the megamanual recommends)
That way I get to see immediate changes in AFRs and know the table works like I want right away.
If you have to crank forever to start then it sounds like you need to change the priming or cranking pulse widths. What does the AFR show immediately upon startup (rich or lean) then you know what need to happen to the after start enrichment.
Wiring megasquirt to stock 81 wire harness
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Welcome to hybridz. It looks like you already started finding some of the info you need by looking around. Let us know if you have any more questions.