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mobythevan

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Posts posted by mobythevan

  1. So we got the LC-1 installed in his H-pipe, programmed analog output 1 to be 0-5volts and 10-20AFR. He is running MSnS_Extra024s9 code. Went into the .ini file and selected LC-1. Also changed the gauge settings in megatune so we had an AFR gauge in the main window and the VE tuning window. Worked great, got him tuned up, but didn't have time to turn on the AFR target tables. Have to save that for another day when we upgrade him to 029i code.

     

    BTW, we added the 470 ohm current limiting resistor in line as recommend by Jerry at DIYautotune.

     

    All went good except we didn't read the instructions and didn't put the terminator plug on the LC-1 so we couldn't get the laptop to connect.

     

    Hoping to get megasquirt and the LC-1 on my Talon next weekend. Then I'll get the 3 digit AFR meter built for the dash.

  2. Yes, you can use the ignitor on the car, or the gm module to fire a coil. Just make sure with version 2.2 board that you use some kind of module/ignitor, as it cannot fire the coil directly like the version 3.0 board. If you use the ignitor I don't know how you hook it up, you'll have to ask one of the other guys.

     

    There were some good threads explaining how to attach the pullup resistors. Let me know if you can't find anything.

  3. The sticky instructions are for version 2.2 board, I was running version 3 code back then (magnus stuff I believe, not MSnS_extra). Things get confusing with all the different codes and board versions.

     

    This document assumes you are using MS v2.2 hardware and MSnS v3.0 code.
  4. You could have burned up the processor, diodes, or 5 volt regulator. Don't feel bad, my friend burned a processor up, he just ordered another chip and was back on the road. Before jumping to conclusions make sure you have 5volts at all the pins of the processor chip, the assembly guide tells you which ones. Also check voltage at the RS232 chip. Then put your multi meter in diode checking mode and check all the diodes on the board(remember the didode D8 may be shorted because the assembly guide tells you to build it that way), won't take very long. If your lucky you only burned up the 5 volt regulator and/or a couple diodes. If diodes are good and 5 volts at the processor socket is good, then lean towards a new processor chip.

  5. What was that thing that flew across the ground from under the car in the first part of the video?

     

     

    I'm wondering that myself. Perhaps a mouse that had a nest above the transmission?

     

    I almost fell out of my chair laughing when that happened, especially after reading those lines first :mrgreen:

     

    That is where I want to head with my 4g63, in the 30psi range :shock:

  6. I wouldn't expect the sensor to be bad if you bought a new one. You can measure the resistance across the sensor at room temp and look up the sensor curve in the megamanual to see if the resistance reading is correct.

     

    Did you build the megasquirt yourself or buy a pre-assembled one? Wrong value resistor installed in the coolant sensor circuit??

  7. Randy,

     

    Glad to hear you are up and running. I know how these projects can drag out.

     

    just very very rich.. so be prepared for sooty plugs and poor MPG =)

     

    I wonder if my FPR was screwed up. That tune wasn't rich on my car, but the FPR was stuck in the beginning and then I never replaced it, so it could be?

     

    Or maybe I hold stock in Conoco, the world will never know.

  8. I'm using the stock ignition coil, which side does the fidle go to?

     

    Stock coil or stock ignitor? Or both? If you have a v2.2 board it cannot fire the coil directly. The FIDLE wire must fire an ignitor/module that in turn fires the coil. See the schematic above in this thread that shows how a GM 4 pin module is used to fire the stock 280zx turbo coil.

  9. PM prox and ask him how we hooked up his injectors. WE used the stock resistor pack, but I can't remember now if we only run one wire for power. IF there is only one wire in the harness then I am sure we only ran one and didn't worry about the current draw being too high. See what he has to say about that specific question.

     

    If you want to know specifically which wire to use for the CAS I would PM Tony D. on that one.

     

    The specific wire for the fuel pump? I can't remember. I cracked open the car schematics and tracked it down to a connector under the glove box, by the passenger door and then connected that wire to the relay board.

  10. Prox, that will work fine using the voltmeter. I just wanted a display that was a little bigger and more custom looking. I have started construction of the circuit in breadboard format. I have just run out of time this week. My wife's business is really going well, so I am adding two more 10x20 loafing sheds and various other projects. I'll let you guys know when it is working, I have the LC-1 in hand now.

  11. he would have to go find and purchase a MAF sensor, and it would also need a O2 sensor, which the stock ecu wouldn't need to run in limp.

     

    No, megasquirt does not use a MAF sensor. It uses a MAP sensor which is built into the ECU. You just run a vacuum line to the ECU. Megasquirt does not need the O2 sensor to run. I never used it because I ran with a wideband sensor and manually wathced AFRs(so there was no closed loop correction on my setup). Just turn O2 off below 10,000rpm. FWIW, I started my engine first with the stock ECU then changed to megasquirt. But I just want to avoid misinformation about megasquirt.

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