mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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the flow rate out of the injectors is constant at constant psi (no matter what the air pressure is, so it will be much easier to tune MS with a constant psi.
A consistent setup makes tuning easier. So I don't believe it matters if the FPR is static or raises pressure as long as it does its function the same way every time, then it will be easy to tune and AFRs will stay the same, disregarding every other variable in an engine.
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my copied post from msefi.com:
Went ahead and installed MSnS and LC-1 wideband a day early. After the usual confusion and mess ups it fired up. Had the wrong required fuel becasue I started with andrew's msq from dieselgeek. Got that squared away and set timing, its running good. Got to set idle now, verify the stepper IAC is shut, fix the AFR gauge in megatune(think I ended up with the wrong megatune for 024s13c) and then tune it a bit. Should be driving it to work on Friday (60 mile trip). Thanks to dieselgeek and jerry at DIYautotune. Now the real fun begins.
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The manual way would be to log the percent correction on a drive then analyze the file at home and re-adjust accordingly the target values that required a large percent correction during the drive. There should be software to automatically update like mentioned, but I haven't chekced into it yet.
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I tried to use mstweak a couple times with no success. I am curious to see if anyone is using it and how well it works. I just tune manually right now and run target AFR tables with wideband.
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Went to a hot rodders garage today that builds rods and does machining and welding. After looking at several cool rods we go in the room where he is building one and on the bench sets a complete 1100hp twin turbo V6. He bought it from the car museum here in Colorado Springs when they shut down. It is in immaculate condition. He said it was only dyno'd then never used in the race, was just a back up engine. He had lots of other cool stuff there. He owns a GN that he drives around when he is not out in one of the rods.
I wondered why he had the huge poster on the wall showing the Indy GN V6.....
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Can anyone verify this?
Every since I wrote that sticky I have never heard back from anyone that used that VR trigger circuit? So if you use it and it works let me know so I can say it is really verified.
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I know this doesn't apply to the L28 engines, but for the chevy guys, you can by the EDIS 36-1 wheel with 2" center hole and then buy a supercharger 2 groove pulley with 2" center. Makes a nice bolt on setup for the EDIS on V8's.
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OK, thanks for the info. I'll just check into the shur-flo pumps.
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Found this neat link with quite a bit of info and calculators for water injection, it might have been listed already.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html
I was interested in #21 on the list about using fuel injection pump for water injection. He says it will corrode shut quicky. Has anyone here been running a 50/50 water ethanol mixture using a fuel pump?
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I would have thought you would say the same thing as the awd neon, v12 in a z good, v12 in a corvair, who wants a corvair, ugly ha ha ha
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Max size inj with batch fire is about 45 pph, more than that and sequential inj allows better turndown at idle, otherwise too rich.
It will be interesting to see how my 4g63 idles with 850cc injectors and megasquirt. I hear MSII allows a finer scale batch control which helps with bigger injectors, but I haven't looked into it since I won't be running an MSII unit.
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You can do it easier than that by just running one 6 post coil and it fires at every TDC. If that is what you want. Be sure to read the thread by braap about EDIS.
Look in the must read sticky for the link
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Moby, your op amp circuit will work, but requires a lot more external components.
yeah, no problem, I just always think in opamps.
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Could you elaborate?
This was the email I got from Jerry at DIYautotune:
You can use either analog output from the LC-1, use a 470 ohm ¼ watt resistor inline with this output, and connect the other end of the resistor to the o2 input on the MegaSquirt. This resistor will limit the current the MS can draw from the LC-1 which can overdraw the LC-1’s DAC and cause problems.
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Here is a circuit to get you started, but you need to determine 3 things now,
1. Amplitude of the input sine wave from the magnetic sensor to ensure that a gain of 5 gives you a large enough amplitude for the second stage level detector so it is easy to size your resistors. If you need a different gain let me know and I'll put up the equation.
2. You then need to select Vref, R, and nR to pick a mid crossover point in your sine wave and however much hysteresis you want to accomplish the debouncing.
3. Depending on the rate of triggers from that wheel at your maximum rpm, make sure you do not exceed the slew rate of the 741 opamp, otherwise pick a faster slew rate opamp. This one will output a 0-5v signal at a 10us edge rate. I would think that would be fast enough.
I would start with this and measure the magnetic sensor sine wave from the sensor directly, then from the output of the first stage and make sure it is amplified by 5, then pick values for the second stage and measure the final output to make sure it is a useable TTL type signal. It won't hurt my feelings if you do this a different way, but you will never regret becoming more familiar with opamps.
you can view a larger image in my photo album.
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Interesting, thanks for the heads up.
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What's a recommended circuit for the following: I need accurate triggering of a counter input to get the engine speed. It needs to support the ignition reference from the GM HEI, and needs to support one of these (triggering once per tooth after debouncing):
If I was setting that up I would use an opamp circuit to prepare the signal before running a ttl counter or processor counter, not sure if you are using discrete ttl parts or some kind of micro-controller for the counter. I love op amps and since they say it is a magnetic pickup (not optical which could be made into a ttl signal to start with) that is what I would suggest. I didn't dig on there site to see if they have an electrical specs on the sensor output, so just run an opamp as a threshold detector with adjustable hysteresis at the crossover point and run it on 0v and +5v so its output will be ttl compatible. You may have to hunt around for a stable threshold for that sensor, but then it would be set. Then the opamp can serve the purpose of debouncing the trigger and converting to +5volts. If you like this idea but haven't worked with opamps much let me know and I can try to put something together for a schematic and part numbers, these are very cheap, like an LM311 and supporting parts. Its just my initial thought.
Opamps will be the base for all kinds of neat car circuits to condition input signals before passing them to an ECU, like knock sensor, speed sensor, vehicle weight sensors (load cells), accelerometers, thermocouples, etc, etc. I have thought a few times about having load cells on the car to have accurate weight at any time
, my dad drove a semi that was set up that way, really neat when it was being loaded. Now I sound like Tony D, Tony where are you, ha ha -
So did you crack a piston or what?
You better have that 470 ohm resistor in there
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Just to add what I have read... I followed a lengthy thread on turbomustang IIRC over the last few months where a guy bought an SS T70 turbo and it worked really good for him. So it seems to be a gamble.
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Long as the alt doesn't flash and charge, it runs FINE!
That sucks.
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If, in megatune, I am not getting any rpm signal while cranking, should i still expect my ignition module to fire?
In the msns installation guide, the instructions say to jumper IDL to FIDLE. If i am not using a relay board, do i still have to somehow short IDL to FIDLE? if so, how do i do this?
If you do not see any rpm in the main window gauge then you will not fire any spark. If you do not have the relay board then you just use the IDL pin straight off the DB37 connector. You still need a pullup resistor on the IDL wire, but if you don't see any cranking rpm you have have to fix that first. Do you have a pullup resistor on the tach input wire from the 81 CAS?
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Oh I wasn't being defensive, I'm just trying to figure out how people make use of auto-dwell control ICs in electronic ignitions.
No problem, to tell you the truth I am not sure how the auto dwell of the 4 pin module works, but I'm sure James on the MSnS site could explain it. I am actually running with dwell control in the MSnS unit. I just know that the 4 pin GM module does provide an auto dwell (which must be tailored to V8 rpm range 0-4500 and GM HEI coil) and the 7/8 pin GM modules do not have any dwell control. Good luck on your setup, sounds like fun.
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That is fine, I'm not saying your a dummy or anything for wanting to set up your own power transistors.
Since you didn't mention 8 coils, one $12 GM module would have worked nice. If you are running coil on plug are you going to use 4 triggers from MS and fire two transistors at a time, since 4 ignition triggers seems to be the limit? I think we are going to use four EDIS 4 post coils on our 2004 HEMI because it has 16 plugs. There are plenty of circuits on the net for the L293D stepper controller, so that should work fine.
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Under the code config options you need to select what type of ignition you want to run. Everything is turned off.
Since you didn't mention 8 coils, one $12 GM module would have worked nice. If you are running coil on plug are you going to use 4 triggers from MS and fire two transistors at a time, since 4 ignition triggers seems to be the limit? I think we are going to use four EDIS 4 post coils on our 2004 HEMI because it has 16 plugs.
Ecotec turbo with direct fuel injection
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
My newest magazine has an article about this, pretty cool to see the direct fuel injection in a gas engine. 260hp/260tq, I didn't read it all so I am not sure what the boost was. There graph showed a flat torque curve of 260lbs from 2K to 6K. That sounds fun. Full boost at 2k and still have top end.