mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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To look at my 021u settings you have to create a new directory under megatune and make sure it has the correct o21u msns_extra.ini file.
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The VE map in the map sharing thread from my 021u code settings would get you going I think, I had upgraded to 450cc injectors by then.
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Megasquirt only knows that it gets a trigger, doesn't matter if it comes from optical, hall, etc. So there is no setting in megatune for that. But, you might have to change the hardware on the megasquirt board so that it is compatible with your hall sensor. Are you not seeing a trigger signal into megasquirt?
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So that being said I know no that the timing is good to go.
So what next??
uh, I don't think so. You need to go into megatune and set the fixed angle to 10 degrees BTDC. Then put a timing light on the engine and crank it over and see if you are getting 10 degrees BTDC on the damper timing mark. Then you know the timing is set correctly. If it does not show 10 degrees, you either change the trigger angle in megatune OR you rotate the dizzy, one or the other. You might have done this already, but your post didn't mention it. And read the manual again
haha just kidding. -
Excellent, You should re-do that simple schematic and repost it without the resistor to complete this thread, so other people don't just see it and install it.
My fuel pumps have always been mounted below the level of the gas in the fuel tank, so they self prime basically.
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I have to be careful not to reply to too many posts or Tim240z will be calling me a post whore
A lot of times I wait a day or so for other people to answer posts for several reasons.
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One thing we get a cranking RPM of about 147, would this be a tack signal?
That could be right for cranking rpm. So it sounds like your tach input is working (trigger into megasquirt). When you turn the car on, but don't crank the fuel pump should prime for a couple seconds then shutoff. Then if you start cranking the fuel pump will turn on and run continuously during cranking, that also tells you that the tach input to megasquirt is working.
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I think the 029 extra code does support 6 spark outputs now, but you still have to wire 6 transistors for coil drivers.
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here you go, this is the conversion chart:
Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side
Red (12v) B/W
White (MS trigger) G/B
Green (not used) G/Y
Black (gnd) Black
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A lot of dyno charts I see have the A/F somehwere in the high 10's low 11's, that is just overkill, imho
I have read articales that say any thing richer than 12:1 doesn't help anymore in preventing detonation anyway, I dunno, but I'm not going to run any richer than 11.8 on anything I do in the future.
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Looks good to me for 11psi, ~260hp, ~300tq
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More stuff I see
When I open the msq it shows 6 warnings(says its writing them to audit.log), never try to start the car when warnings show up, that means you have really screwed up settings somewhere in megatune.
For instance I looked through your settings to locate a couple of the warnings, audit.log says stuff like HCUT value wrong, HCUT means hard cut to me, so I went right to the rev limiter settings, BTW this is the first time I have looked in the audit log to find a warning.
Found that your soft and hard rev limits were set to something like 24000 rpm, so I set soft limit to 6500, hard limit to 7000. That was easy to find, unless you wanted a 24000rpm rev limit
, that did get rid of a couple of the warnings. -
Yep, you need to read the tuning section of the manual and then use the calculator to get the correct required fuel value for your injectors and also set the injectors to "alternating" instead of "simultaneous", otherwise your useable required fuel value is going to be too low, causing idle adjustment problems.
Follow the tuning guide and just get the engine idling after you fix required fuel. I think you are going to find that your VE table has to change a bunch across the entire table, but start with just idling. Do you have a wideband so you can adjust the fuel at idle?
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OK, I looked at the msq file, now I have several questions and advice for you:
1. How did you set up megatune so that it is configured correctly for 024s code?
2. Did you calibrate the TPS?
3. You have not calculated required fuel correctly yet (see the tuning section of the manual), required fuel of 12 in your msq means that you are using stock 280zxt injectors, is that true?
4. Your fuel VE table is screwed up, it has the value 22 loaded in more than half the table, you need to fix that (make it look like the VE table in the sticky) interpolate to fill in the extra spaces if needed.
5. Same problem on the spark table, it has 22 loaded in half the table. It should look like the ignition table in the sticky.
This may sound like tough love, but you have to read the tuning manual and the instructions for MSnS_Extra or you are just hurting yourself. I can point out everything to get the car running, but then when one thing goes wrong in the future you won't know what to do.
ONE OTHER THING, I don't think the resistor between 11 and 12 is needed with the v3.0 board if you are using the IGBT coil driver, Foundsoul, is that needed as far as you know?
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Ok, 3.4 required fuel looks low to me. What size injectors are you running? To get a similar value from the calculator to what you have I had to enter like 60lb injectors.
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Yeah, I couldn't find it by searching either.
read this post for general timing tuning
scroll down to post #6
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91006
Your question on hall sensor for tuning confuses me a little. From my understanding either the v2.2 or v3 megasquirt will work with the optical trigger input. v2.2 requires the pullup resistor, v3 maybe it doesn't need the resistor?
You set up your own trigger angle, so you can set it at 78, 59, 53, whatever you want as long as it triggers ealry enough to allow for your max advance. Example: if you want to run total timing of 40 degrees somewhere in your spark table then you need a trigger that happens before 40 degrees, like 50 degrees.
The idea is that you set the trigger angle to say 78 degrees, then you entered a fixed angle of 10 degrees just for setup purposes. Then you crank the engine and rotate the dizzy until you see 10 BTDC on the crank timing mark with your timing light, that calibrates the trigger angle, then you go back in and set fixed angle to -10 which turns off fixed angle mode and lets you run from your table again. Then you can fire up the engine and let it idle, megatune shows you what your current spark advance is and you can verify with the timing light on the crankshaft.
This may be stuff you already know, but better to cover everything in one thread.
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The most obvious thing is that you need the correct type of serial cable, the manaul tells you which one, there are two types.
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The easiest way to start on no spark problems with the turbo swap is to divide the problem. Check to see if the yellow/white wire pulses from the ECU during cranking(using a light). That way you know whether it may be a inhibit wire missing to the ECU, or coil wiring that is wrong. Is the GL inhibit wire tied to let the ECU spark?
You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page.
The wires are as follows:
Plug 1=
BR 12v power source. Positive
G 12v power source. Positive
Plug 2=
Y start signal (+)
GL ground for inhibitor switch
YW speed sensor (not necessary)
Y A/C signal (+)
YW coil (-) (must use ignitor)
B fuel pump ground if using modulator
Plug 3=
LR fuel pump relay
G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator
W not used
Y not used
BW ignition signal (+)
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As for no fuel you need to break out the multimeter and start down the path. Make sure the fuel pump relay turns on, make sure the wire at the relay board has 12volts, then make sure the wire at the fuel pump has 12 volts. Seems more likely that the fuel pump relay never turns on, don't rely on hearing it click on, actually measure the voltage.
I'll look at the msq before commenting on no spark.
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When I try to start the car it does not get a tack single or injector pulse. I'm not getting spark or fuel.
Before we start into the troubleshooting, email me your msq file that you are using on the car.
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Somewhere on this site is an ignition table from a nissan four cylinder from 240zturbo, James
You'll have to look around to dig it up.
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Looks great, I got my EDIS8 module and coils in. I didn't get the connector for the module. That seems like the only piece I am missing now.
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Standard MSI software does not run spark. So load it with MSnS_Extra. If you buy an assembled kit have them load it with MSnS_Extra. MSnS_Extra works on MSI v2.2 or V3. It does not work yet on MSII processor.
Hope that helps, be sure to check through every setting and every section of MSnS_Extra in Megatune, there are a lot of things, when in doubt use the Bowling and Grippo defaults which have a marker by them in each section of Megatune.
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1 - On one of the wiring diagrams that I have it has outputs from pin#26 (TPS Vref) going through a 1K 1/4w restistor to the negitive side of the coil along with pin#36 (IGT out)
Well Do I need to do this or not?? I was planning on just running S5 out to the neg side of the coil (remember I am running a relay board).
2 - for my LC1 connection I need 12v which I will get from switched power. In some of the diagrams they show power for the O2 sensor coming from the Fuel pump relay. Do I need to pull power from there for my LC1?
The 1k 1/4 watt resistor you mention is for the GM HEI module, since you are using v3.0 board, the IGBT pin can drive the coil and you don't need the resistor or GM module.
The fuel pump relay power seems to be popular for powering the LC-1, you can do that. Or you can pull it from anywhere else that is on during running and cranking, or just running.
haha just kidding.
MegaSquirt w/ stock sensors and harness
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I just converted my eagle talon to megasquirt and I unsoldered the factory ECU connector and then wired it to the DB37 so now I just plug the megasquirt directly into the factory harness ECU connectors, worked out really slick. You could so something like that to get started.