mobythevan

What is the vacuum module that is circled in this picture?

The haynes read manual, is that what you got off ebay? That one seems good for the wiring. I got the turbo engine dropped in today, hooked up starter, alternator. I've got to mount the AFM and VCM. My car is a 73 240, and it has the electric pump in back. I didn't realize that until I was under it today, I'm glad because that will give me a place to mount the new electric pump. I also have to relocate the throttle linkage. Getting closer. I still haven't found a hydraulic hose to bypass my oil cooler lines, so no chance of firing it up this weekend, oh well, I have plenty left to do.

Also look at this http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=253139&t=253135 please forgive me for putting a zcar.com link It restates what I said and also tells you how to hook up plug #2(8 position) Let me know if any of that doesn't make sense.

Ok, I will tell you what I see in my haynes manual looking at the schematic for 82zxt, and BTW this all matches what I have on my 83zxt engine. This is what I think I see and may not be true (anybody chime in), its kind of hard to trace these through the haynes manual. 1. There is a two wire connector that goes to the fusible link box, it has wires Brown and Green. Brown supplies power to the green relay. The Green wire supplies power to the ECU and fuel injectors all the time. 2. There is a four wire connector for the EGI green relay, it has wires Brown, Black, Black with White stripe, and another Black with White stripe. It looks like when the ignition is turned on, then one of the black with white wires comes from the ignition and will turn on the relay to provide power to the ECU and other things through the other black with white wire. 3. Now the six position connector in question (that only uses 5 positions) has wires Blue with Red stripe, Green, White, Yellow, Black with White stripe. (you say yellow solid and yellow in you post????) The Black with White wire here is the one that goes hot when ignition is on so that the EFI relay is activated. It looks like it goes all over but among those places to the ignition switch and to the coil. The White wire is water temp switch and goes to the fan motor relay. Yellow is for the water temp gauge. Blue with Red activates the fuel pump relay. Green looks like it is tied to the fuel pump power line, so when the realy is turned on for the pump this line will send 12v back to the ECU. So do you have a white and yellow or two yellow wires on that last connector? That is the only connector that matches what you are saying. Let me know Bryan

I'll look at my EGI green relay wiring again tonight, but I know that I have the connector for it on the harness(which you seem to be missing). If I can get my engine fired off then I can give you some real help on the wiring. Right now I don't even know if its going to work. I am an electrical engineer so the wiring of the ECU and EFI doesn't bother me . I have looked through the schematic in the naynes manuyal a few times and I think I have a plan. I wasn't going to use the fusible links, I bought a fuse block to put near the battery to power the ECU, fuel pump, EFI, etc. But who knows what I'll run into. Bryan

I'm gonna try to fire mine up this weekend in sort of a test setup. The engine will be in the car, but I'm gonna run from gas can and just wire the ECU setting in the engine compartment to see if the engine is anygood. I have just about everything except a hose to bypass the oil cooler lines. I got a relay yesterday for the electric pump. As far as relays go it looked to me like you only need the one for the EFI and the the one for the fuel pump of course. Which one are you missing that has 5 connections?? On the coil are you talking about the transistor that fires the coil?(it mounts right on the coil bracket) I didn't think that these turbo engines had a ballast resistor. Well, this weekend I will be in the same boat as you guys hoping that all of the electronics are good and that the fuel injectors still work.

Its the 3 studs that mount to the exhaust pipe flange, the 4 studs at the turbo are OK. It also appears to me that the wastegate is stuck from the engine setting.

While looking over the turbo engine found broken exhaust manifold stud at the rear of the eninge. Can't get a drill on it unless I pull the intake manifold or get some angle air drill(maybe). Then found that all three studs on the downpipe are broken off by whoever pulled the engine. So I start to remove the downpipe to work on this and break the EGR fitting because it is brittle. So I think EGR is history, I am just making a plate to block it off on the intake manifold. I had to remove the EGR valve to put penetrating oil on the fitting so I can remove it from the intake manifold, so I will just leave it off. So this weekend only lead to more work to get this swap completed, frustrating.

The head doesn't appear to be damaged, but I haven't had it checked out and probably won't because I am putting an L28ET in the car. The previous owner had bought the L26 engine from someone else who had it pulled out to "check valve timing". Hmm, I wonder why they pulled the engine for that???? The distibutor/oil pump gear was also timed wrong. I fully expected these kind of problems when I bought the car in a project state, but thought I might get lucky. Instead it is leading me down a path to have a turbo engine, so that is also lucky I guess

I uploaded the picture to my personal album Lets see if this works----

Those ideas sound good, I have a spare 240 gas tank from the V8 car that will not be used for anything. I will set it up with a sump and baffle design to go in the car. Just to get the car fired off I will use Mudge's suggestion to use the drain plug as a source with a filter before the electric pump. Thanks guys Bryan

So I have searched through a boatload of posts here and at zcar.com about the turbo swap and have found all of the info I need, but have at least one question about fuel tank. I dug up one post that said a 75 or 76 tank will fit into the 240 and work better with the FI(but 77 on would not fit). The post only said that the tank had baffles inside to reduce sloshing. I can't find one of these tanks so I will be using my 240 tank. I realize I will have to add the electric fuel pump, damper, filter and new lines up and back to the engine. I guess the question is what size fuel lines should I run and what specifically is the issue with the 240 tank(the size of the fuel lines/connections on the tank?) What are other people doing here that kept their 240 gas tanks? Thanks Bryan

My father-inlaw owns an auto shop here in town, so I figured I would get with him sometime and look through his schematics to see if I need anything else in the relay department. I'll just wire my own for the fuel pump like you say. I would love to get up to Bandimere. My plan right now is that the turbo 240z will be my daily driver and my V8 240z is going to be set up for drag racing. My neighbor drag races and keeps telling me to get the car finished so I can start.

I looked over the harness real quick and saw one relay on it that said EGI(green). I didn't see anything else. Hopefully anything I am missing here I can buy later. I should have time this weekend to get the engine in, then I'll start the wiring. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I didn't pull it. The guy had pulled it and had it all setting out. I'm not sure about the relay boxes, but I'll check that out tonight. Not sure on the fuel pump either, but guessing I don't have it. The car is gone already but he may have misc parts laying around. How many relay boxes should be with the harness? Fuel pump I can set up with aftermarket unit right. So the relay boxes may be the more critical items?

So what started as fix the L26 in my 240 for a daily driver has now expanded to turbo L28 project. I picked up an 83 turbo motor and 5 speed borg warner trans for $300 that runs. I am just getting ready to search the posts to make sure I got everything I need for the conversion. I got the ECU, harness, air flow sensor and complete engine/turbo. Is there anything else critical that I need? If so I have to get back with this guy quick to get any more parts. Just concerning the engine, I am already aware of brakes, drivetrain upgrades available from my V8 project. Thanks guys.

Ok, thanks for the info guys. I have also been searching posts at zcar.com. I think I know enough now to dive in.

I can either leave the L26 in my car which seems stock, or go with an L28 which will be stock. I have never driven the z-cars with either engine, is there enough difference in torque to go with the L28. This is a daily driver and either engine will be stock or real close to it. Both engines would be set up with SU carbs. Also, is there a difference between 280Z stock engines and 280ZX stock engines(assuming either would now have SU carbs). It will cost me the same amount of money to get either one running(L26 or L28). If I swap L28 fom a ZX into 240 car, can I use the 240 clutch, pp? I want to do the simplest swap possible, so I will stick with the 4 speed tranny in the 240.

I am near Calhan, east of Colorado Springs about 20 miles.

I found a good running L28 engine for $200. I think I may put that in instead of messing with the L26. I"ll think it over for a couple days.

I bought a 73 240 with a L26 engine in it. The car was in totally unknown state when I bought it. This is the first L engine I have worked on. So I go the engine running, first found that the dizzy timing was off by a tooth or two. Fired up with a lot of noise on top end. Checked valve adjustement, still lot of noise. Pulled the head and found that the valves have been hitting the pistons. It showed 120lbs compression in this shape. Looks like the previous guy had the valve timing wrong. Doesn't look like any damage was really done. I think I'll clean up the tops of the pistons and put it back together and see if the compression comes up with the correct valve timing. What do you guys think?

I should add there that he shot it out of the sky with his 264 mag deer rifle. Redneck fools, the whole bunch

The only videos I ever watched on their site was the funny ones shooting the gun at the indoor range. I didn't realize they had videos showing the killing of various animals. We adhere to the rule that you eat what you shoot. Believe it or not my uncle once shot a crow out of the sky on a bet and guess what, they tried to cook that sucker

I agree, I only shoot what I will eat(as far as animals go ). BTW, if anyone is looking at reloading info on that page keep in mind that these guys are "seat-of-the-pants" reloaders. They don't have the equipment to messure pressure in the chamber, so be careful.

http://www.accuratereloading.com/ I reload, so I have looked at these guys web site before. They have several videos shooting that gun. Some are pretty funny.