mobythevan

The new message icon is not working. Don't know if it is just me or what.

Hey are you calling me a computer nerd Just because I design computers and like to work on computers and wear glasses, uh oh, nevermind....... Yeah I think your right, I will probably go Megasquirt too. There is a certain comfort level in using what has been proven out better. And my pcb quote came back at $250 for 4 pcbs, ouch

Went for a test drive on Saturday. This car is going to be fun. Right now the car still has the 4 spd tranny and R180 diff, so its pretty light. Dumped the clutch and took off around my dirt circle drive, turbo kicked in and now we are drifting. I like it already. Didn't get too far and had to come back because engine was missing a little. After several running cycles over the last few days it occurs to me that it only starts missing when the ECU goes into close loop mode. It seems like my current mode of no exhaust may be causes fits with the O2 sensor. Running stock downpipe without anything else seems to be having problems keeping the O2 sensor at temp and keeping cold air out of the pipe at idle. For the next test drive I'll just run in open loop mode(disconnect O2). When I get exhaust hooked up then I will revisit. Test drive agian tonight and maybe make it to the pavement to see how it hooks up. Also had so other luck this weekend as my parents are parting out a mid 80's buick. Was able to get a 2 speed electric fan and several air intake ducts. Also grabbed the 100 amp alternator off of it. Just like monster garage the price was free, nada, zip ......

Yeah, that soldering doesn't bother me, I have soldered fine pitch parts before. We have really good equipment were I work so no problems. I wish the MS guys offered their gerbers, but I guess they want to make a little money too. Also shouldn't be a problem to substitute equivalent parts on the AVR board if some are hard to get. I'll see what it quotes at and decide if buying MS is better or not.

oops, meant to say that it is not tested as well as the Megasquirt. Since he shares the gerbers it will be easy to get a quote.

Out of curiosity I am going to get a quote from our board house on the AVR pcb. If it is not too much I may get a minimum run which will be one sheet, I don't know maybe 5-10 boards. Be fun to play around with anyway. Of course this one is tested nearly as well as regular Megasquirt, but I like messing with electronic stuff. I see he sells them for $12, but he is in Hungaria and you have to send dollars in an envelope, kinda sounds like supporting Osama. I wonder if he builds detonation devices

I know what you mean I have 2 L6 blocks righ now and 2 4 spd trannies. I took one block already to the scrap dealer for free, I didn't get a penny for it and it ran great. The only thing I was able to sell was the SU carbs. I think I'll sell my second set on ebay. I have had good luck on ebay.

Just remember, UPS lost my tranny and it was only a stroke of luck(and the fact that I complained to my companies UPS rep) that they were able to find it. Now, let us all pray for the safe deliverance of this transmission.

Seems the biggest issue with the sherco parts is knowing whether or not they are the correct trubo injector replacement. You said they sent you two different type injectors? I'll have to go look about using megasquirt with high or low impedance injectors to see what the options are. Those were just some Lucas injectors I looked up the pricing on that were 42#/hr for mustangs at $40 apiece.

So my turbo swap is coming along real nice but I have the usual leaky injectors. I would rather not buy the sherco injectors because of all the hoopla I have read about them. It looks like 5 of my 6 injectors are leaking so I will be buying a complete set anyway. From what I have know right now it seems like the best thing to do would be to go ahead and put Megasuirt in the car. I also see that 42lb/hr ford mustang injectors can be had for $40 apiece from performance shops. So for around $350 and a new fuel rail I could have EFI and fuel injectors to support upgrades down the road. For the time being this setup would just go on the stock engine as I start to crank up boost a little (10-12psi like sleeperZ says) and then add an intercooler. I just hate to go spend $200 on stock replacement injectors when I would like to play with the Megasquirt anyway. And I could toss the AFM which doesn't fit good into the 240. Is there anything else I should consider from you guys that have been down this road before? It seems like good plan to me. I don't know how many miles I have on my turbo engine and it is definitely not an O-ringed head.

I don't have the bullet wire connected to anything, like you say this wire use to go to the 280zxt tachometer.

yep, new O2 sensor fixed the problem. Now I get green LED on when I turn the key on.

No problem, I was just looking for ideas. Thanks for the pictures guys. I will be back to work on the car this weekend, see if I can take it for a drive. I didn't get much of anything done on Easter weekend. I did get the electric fuel pump mounted and plumbed.

OK, I'll see what it does now that I have a new O2 sensor.

On my 83zxt ECU, how should the green LED operate? I know once the O2 sensor is up to temp then the LED is suppose to flash as the ECU samples and updates the fuel mixture. But what happens with this LED during starting, turning key on, etc.. I don't have a factory manual yet. I don't remember it doing anything yet on my ECU.

Yes the LR wire is the wire that turns on the relay for the fuel pump(it is an output from the ECU), so if you wired the relay some other way then you don't need to use this wire. The start signal is what I meant. I have the start signal hooked up to the fuel pump relay so that when the relay is on the ECU gets the start signal, this is what the wiring diagram showed for correct hook up. As for transistor I am only confusing you I guess. There should be some kind of pulse on pin 5 that works the transistor. It should either be a high pulse or a low pulse. Depending on whether the transistor turns on to fire or off to fire(that I am not sure about without more info). But regardless, if pin 5 is stuck high or low all the time I don't see how the transistor is going to work, therefore no spark. If it was me I would hook a scope to pin 5 and crank the engine to see if I get pulses, but you probably don't have a scope.

makes me think of that 900rwhp supra video were he is driving on a road course and all you see is smoke boiling off the tires.

ok, I'll throw some speculation in here to confuse you more. I didn't test the signal on Pin 5 that fires the transistor and coil, but it is my impression that you should get some kind of pulse on this pin to the transistor. That pulse turns the transistor on, when the transistor is turned on it shorts the coil to ground to fire the plugs. I think if you see ground on pin 5 all the time then the ECU is not turning on the transistor. I also hooked up the wire that gets 12volts from the fuel pump relay when the relay is turned on.

I noticed that almost all of the plastic injector holders are broke on my engine, still not sure if that will be the source of the leaks but I fix those first and check the hoses. I got the electric pump mounted today and hooked into the drain plug of the gas tank. Got new O2 sensor installed so I need to fire up again and see if the ECU will go into closed loop mode now. Things are still going along good.

Well, since I read the V8 forum first I replied over there

Oh yeah, and do some searching because the weight of a V8 car can be the same as a stock car without too much effort. Doesn't seem to be too hard to get 300hp out of the turbo 280 engine. YOu can get a lot more than that if your wallet is fat. But like you say that kind of power from a SBC is a no brainer.

Well, I am doing both and all I can say is that the turbo swap is only taking me about two months worth of weekends to be completed and the V8 swap will probably continue on over two years. The reason for the length of time required on my V8 swap.... Frame modifications, roll cage installation, regular V8 swap stuff, custom diff mounts, fiberglass body kit installation, LSD swap, suspension and brake upgrades, and a ton of other small things I want to customize on the V8 car. SO I guess in my case I decided to swap the turbo in a stock car and not change anything else. But for the V8 I am going all out. The turbo swap is easy and cheap(at least cheap for me, like 1k compared to 10k for my V8 car). You could do a V8 swap into a stock type car, but the torque would tear things up in short order(because we all know your going to rod the thing ). So I guess the moral of the story is that you can spend the same amount of money on either car, but the turbo swap is a lot easier. I guess you have to ask yourself if you like turbo type power or the torque of a V8 from idle. I like both

I am just looking for different ideas to get my air filter and AFM mounted in turbo 240. I know using the 3" vent hole is one option, just curious to see some pictures of how the AFM mounted for this to work.

I also have leaky injectors, which looks like they may be the most time consuming thing left to deal with before the car hits the road. Not sure yet if the fuel line is leaking or the injectors themselves.

I built a bracket to relocate my linkage. I think I have an L26 linkage which is a different length from the firewall, so it looks like it will work.