mobythevan

http://www.geocities.com/moby_the_van/drivetrain.htm U-jointed halfshafts are the same

Was there only one type of single point distributor in the z cars? I have an L26 conversion into a 240z and the previous owner put a single point distributor in it. It looks like the manual says that only 240z's had the points setup and all 260z's had electronic ignition, is that correct. Trying to figure that out so when I go to autozone I'll know what car to tell them.

Man I pass whenever I get the chance, I pass on the grass, on the sidewalk and on the gravel Only time I'll be smokin grass is when I can't get enough traction in the median to pass that line of cars I never smoked it and never will, but I've been with my friends several times when they do it right in front of me and offer it to me. I don't think less of people that do it, that is their choice. Unless it causes harm to someone else, then that is different IMO. My friends never thought less of me for not doing it and they certainly wouldn't have been friends if they did. I'm a believer that everything should be done in moderation, except speeding

I just bought a 73 240z that was in the middle of an engine swap to an L26. The L26 is mostly hooked up and has the SUcarbs from the L24 engine. There are a lot of vacumm ports not connected. I plan to bypass the heater core first to get the engine running and see if it is any good. I have a Chilton and Haynes manual, but what I need to know is what is really necessary and what can I block off. I realize some things affect idle, warm up, cold weather driving, emissions, etc. I just want to fire this thing off and make sure that the engine runs, ie no blown head gasket, cracked block, saw dust in the oil pan Does anyone have any good cose up pictures of their L6 engines so I can see how some of this stuff was hooked up. I appear to be missing several pipes and hoses, figures Thanks for any help.

If your down to Colorado Springs sometime give me a heads up. You could drop by and see how things are going, talk about exhaust pipes in the rocker panels, give me a ride in your V8 zcar

Just a followup to this post. I have not found any issues with this current plan to replace the inner rockers. In case anybody looks this post up in the future, I will be implementing this frame setup. I got the pssngr floor pan tacked in place this weekend and got the subframe fab'd up for the passngr side. This coming weekend I will be replacing the inner rocker with 1x3tube and 1x2 angle iron and then boxing it in to the subframe. This setup will allow stock type flanges for mounting the outer rocker, which I will also be replacing. I have access to a nice sheet metal brake in order to bend the L shape flanges for the outer rocker attachement, so this should be a simple process(yeah sure it will). Oh, the rust

Ok, I mirrored my website on earthlink, so you can look at the pictures there until that runs out of bandwidth Earthlink_frame_rocker_drawings

Dammit Flippin free web hosting, site has already passed bandwidth allowances. Sorry guys. Let me know if you want to see the drawings and I will email them to you. There are only 3 pictures at 40k each. Bryan

I was talking with another guy and I already see where I could use angle iron for the L bent piece that attaches to the bootom of the tubing and extends downward for the floor pan attachement. The was the spot I was worried about, I think the angle iron will work good there.

I made a couple drawings that show the cross section of the rocker panel structure and show how I plan to replace it with tubing and sheet metal. This is just a first effort plan that is why I wanted you guys to look at it and tell me what your worries would be. I also have a picture that shows how the subframe ties into this new inner rocker, so keep that in mind when thinking about the amount of support it will offer. I am particulary concerned with my plans to tie the new inner rocker tubing into the outer rocker using L bent pieces of sheet metal, see the cross section pictures. I think this will give adequate support since the inner rocker tubing will be tied into the door pillar and rear lower quarter areas, but this is just a plan and can change easily. Yahoo won't let me link the pictures here so you will have to look at them on the website. Frame_rockers

I am putting in the zedd floorpans. I have pics showing the fitting of the passenger side up on my website. look under 240z then under frame, new pics at the bottom. I am real happy with them so far.

I remember seeing someone's website that had pictures where they replaced the inner rocker with rectangular tubing. Who was it that did this? I searched back thru the posts and found one guy that might have done it but his picture links were dead and no www address. I am in the middle of doing this and wanted to see the pics again. Maybe it was someone who is now long gone????

I plan to replace the inner rocker with 1x3 tubing. The inner rocker is more like 1.25" X 5", but I will use sheet metal to add the mating flanges for the outer rocker top and bottom, plus the floor pan mating area. Someone else put tubing in for the inner rocker, but I don't remember who. I am actually working on this area right now. The 1x3 will then tie into my frame at the front and back of the floor pan area using more 1x3. Then the roll cage will also connect into to this front and back. Should make for a strong setup, and only adds minimal weight. Maybe another 30-40lbs. My frame from the engine compartment to the back is also 1x3.

I prefer the copper myself, with silver I couldn't see the sliders on the side. Copper works great tho...

I had these same type questions and I would say this book is the best thing you can buy to get started. For $14 it brought a lot of understanding to me. www.motorbooks.com

I thought I better reply to this now that I have read some of Vizard's camshaft book. He lays out the things that can fool a person when looking at solid cams, and I think I was fooled by every one of them. Definitely makes hydraulic look better for me since I have no emotional connection to adjusting my valve lash. He does show how tighter LSA performs better, but really gets hurt by restrictive exhaust. After my reading I am left trying to decide between Comp Magnum 280H 110LSA, Xtreme 274H 110LSA, or the isky cam you mention 280H with 108LSA. Looks like if a guy knew exhaust flow would be good(whatever that means) then he would chose the isky cam with tighter LSA. On the other hand if you knew exhaust may be restrictive then you might want the dual pattern xtreme cam. Its easy enough to swap cams between hydraulic types so I may end up trying a few before settling on one. If I do try several cams I will dyno all and put results on my website, but don't expect this to happen very soon. On down the road.....

In the interest of giving you guys a laugh.... My biggest redneck moment: The day we pulled the motor out of my 68 chevy van. Used a log truck with a self loader to lift the van off of the engine and the swing the van around and set it down. Of course the neighbors are a good 1/4 mile away. I don't think we would have tried that stunt in town, would have definitely ended up on someone's webpage.

How did you guys deal with the area in front of the door where the body overlaps the rocker panel? That looks like the toughest area that the old rocker panel is tied in to. The steel that overlaps the rocker in this area has a lot of bends and contours in it, I would rather not have to reconstruct much of this part just to get the old rocker out. Replacing the rockers looks like a mess.

I got the chance to best a harley rider in the noise department. I was bringing my van home with new 355 installed and open rams horn manifolds. He was crossing an intersection and I gave it a rev as he came by. The look on his face was priceless , he probably had to go home and tell his harley "its gonna be ok, we are still louder than most". Nothing against harley riders, if you can afford one of those you must have more money than me.

I stripped the tar coating from the interior floors of the car, boy was I dreading this. But to my surprise it went better than I could have hoped for. With the colder temperature I hit it with the air chisel and (wow!!) the entire floor and tranny tunnel stripped in about 10 minutes. Chunks that were about 4" in diameter were flaking off. As far as I'm concerned, the air compressor paid for itself right there. If only the undercoating would strip that easy. I think I am only going to remove undercoating in the areas that I am sure are rusted and forget the rest until I can see holes through it.

Double Whammy, look at those post times.

A search for "lsd brace" yielded this link http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/index.html but according to the thread as of Dec 12th he is out of them. Good luck.

It is the first saying that always pops into my mind when i think of corvettes: wrap your ass in fiberglass

Thanks Grumpy for the tips. The 272TL-6 comp cam looks pretty good for what I want to try on my 355. Torque looks really good in simulation so I think I will try it. If it doesn't work Like I expect then I will change over to the magnum 280H down the road. Overlap on the 272TL-6 is 62 versus 60 on the 280H. DCR is a little higher with the 272 at about 8.5 by my best estimates versus 8 with the 280H. Lobe intensity is better than the xtreme solid flat tappet cams. This will probably lead to a shorter lobe life. It is also a dual pattern cam. The 272 gives about 30lb/ft torque over the 280H all the way from 2000rpm to 5000rpm. Of course this is all simulation and may fly right out the window. So I will just have to try it and see. Dyno2000 is showing approx 445Hp at 6000rpm and 450lb/ft at 4500 rpm. Of course I will only be winding it tight on rare occasion. It also shows about 370lb/ft at 2000rpm. We shall see...... BTW, I would go roller cam but I'll have to see if I have the extra money when the time comes, because if I had the extra money for that I would do 383 kit and if I had the extra money for that I would add.......

I went ahead and ordered the Vizard book on camshafts and valvetrain. It was on sale for $9 at motorbooks.com like you said. It should be interesting reading.