mobythevan

Ok, I am going to have to buy Vizard's valvetrain book. Is there some feeling for how much the idle will change between a cam with 110 LC vs 108 and 106? I know that the dyno software is only somewhat accurate, but I see some really good torque curves between 2K and 5K with cams that have 106 LC. Can you make a generalization that 110 will idle between 700-900, 108 at ?? to ??, etc.? All of the cams I am looking at are in the 270 to 280 adv duration, 235 to 245 @.050

Dammit, I meant 280H in those posts, not 286H. 280H seems to be a real good match and the dyno only shows a little more torwue up high with th solid 282 cams.

Actually it looks like the gains are marginal between solid and hydraulic for what I give up in maintenance, so I will probably just go with the magnum 286H cam.

I am looking at flat tappet cams. I am trying to decide between comp cam magnum 286H hydraulic, or xtreme energy solid flat tappet XS282S. These cams both have 110 LSA. But throwing in(desktop dyno) a solid oval track cam 272TL-6 actually had a flatter torque curve between 2K and 5K, but has 106 LSA. This oval track cam is 2500-6500 cam. I just wondered if idle would be horrible for the occasional drive on the street. But since it is a relatively small race cam it may not be an issue like you say.

Ok, I have seen people throw out a rule of thumb that a solid camshaft has about 8 degrees less duration because of lash. Is this 8 degree guess based on .030 lash? I am trying to make a closer guess at the (real) duration of a 282 solid cam that has lash setting of .012. This will give me a closer calculation for dynamic compression ratio.

Yes, the front fenders on the ebay car are different than mine also. I have the type that square back to the body right in front of the doors. Like This: JuJu I was curious if 12" wide would fit in the rear. Looks like I would have to upgrade to 5 lug for 12" wide wheels. I would like to run 12" in the back and 10" or 8" in the front. Thanks for the info.

Looking at the link of the car on ebay ebay z This got me to thinking again. Using these California Z rear fenders and coilovers, what tire width would fit? Assuming that the fender well is cut out so the only restriction is the coilover and the fiberglass fender. Also, using 15" tire size. I did a search but didn't see much info. Looks like 10" would fit for sure. What about 12", has anyone measured this that is using these fenders? I have a set of these fenders, but it will be end of summer or next winter before I have coilovers on and start fitting up the fenders. They are stuffed in the attic of my garage right now. Just thought I might get lucky and someone has measured this setup.

I don't know what is the best thing to do, but I'll tell you how I am approaching this. I am only replacing one side at a time so that the car has the most amount of support left in the unibody. Also so I can square the new setup with the old framerails on the opposite side. Then sqaure the second frame rail from the first that was replaced. I am talking frame rails because I am replacing them when I do the floor as I suspect you will. I am using a combination of high speed cutter and air body saw to remove the old floorpans. Also I am doing this with the car supported by several jack stands. I thought about making a rotisserie, but decided the car would have more support on jack stands. Maybe I will put it on a rotisserie to finish some of the welding after everything is rigid. Good Luck

Just wondering if anyone has these two components in their 355 engine build, trick flow 23 heads and comp magnum 282s solid cam. Maybe someone would even have a victor jr intake and 10.3:1 compression, holley 750DP. I would really like to find someone that has dyno'd this combo to see if desktop dyno is close or not. I didn't see any combos on ryans combo page with the 282s comp cam. And couldn't find any on the net. A lot of people seem to like this cam and desktop dyno seems to favor it.

The r-180 u-jointed halfshafts are the same as the r-200 u-jointed halfshafts. Also left and right are the same as far as the halfshafts go. Other things vary between left and right but those do not. I verified this by part number and comparison. If somebody thinks different please let me know, because this info depends on a couple factors I couldn't control. Like the junkyard guy selling me 2 r-200 halfshafts. But the part numbers did match.

Look on my website under 240z and then under frame. The first time I made all of the cuts before welding and this allowed everthing to warp easily. Yesterday, I made a new one based on the same design, but I only cut out for the plate first and welded it in. Then I cut out the pocket and welded it later. That worked a lot better. I am sure there are other ways to do it, but I think this one will work for me.

I now have 24 feet of new 2.5" tubing. So I'll try again this weekend and see what happens. BTW, if anyone has advice on how to build in the bolt pocket when replacing the engine compartment frame with 2.5" sqaure tubing let me know. Maybe there is an easier way to fab this area.

Well, I screwed up my engine compartment frame rails that I was building to replace the origional rusted stuff. I welded around my pocket for the crossmember too fast and warped them. Didn't notice until I welded the second one up. Oh well, it was a good lesson to learn early on. So I am going to the steel yard today to get more 2.5" tubing and start over. This time I will weld slow and let everything cool. I will also check for warping and twisting continually. I think I will also change my bolt pocket design so that it doesn't lend itself so easily to bending when I weld it up. Luckily I had only tacked the first into the car when I noticed the problem, so it was easy too remove and no harm done to the car. I can't believe I didn't pay attention to that, I have welded enough stuff to see how the heat twists everything. I guess the real lesson learned is to slow down and doublecheck everything.

I'm pretty sure if you wore the striped hat and had a cup of coffee, then yes you would be an engineer.

I finally got a bottle of C25 shielding gas and started welding wih .023 wire this weeknd. Up until now I have been using flux core wire. Man what a difference. I will not go back to flux core wire for anything. First weld looked great. I had been putting off the change to shielding gas becasue it is kind of exspensive to get the bottle the first time. I wished I would have got it 2 months ago. I got the passenger engine frame rail tacked in place this weekend. It turned out really nice with the pocket for cross member bolts and the narrowing at the fron like the origional. When it is welded up I will be replacing the passenger floor and adding the subframe connector on the passenger side.

I am also a EE, I work at SRC Computers Company Webpage We build scientific computers.

When I bought mine, I had the junkyard guy pull the cover real quick to see that it had the clutch inside.

Finally got the body parts ordered that i need to continue the rust repair phase. Interesting thing is that I was going to order from Mill parts, but everytime I checked their website they were out of stock on some part I needed. So I checked tabco's new website and their prices are wuite a bit cheaper, plus shipping was included in the price. At Mill parts the total was $330 plus shipping, at tabco the same parts were $265 including shipping! I hope the quality is comparable. I couldn't order on tabco's website though because it won't let you specify right and left when you add items to you shopping cart, but I told them and they should have that fixed pretty soon. Also went to the steel yard today and got a 4'x10' sheet of 18 gauge for various body work and patching. I am replacing the rocker panels on both sides and plan to put 1" x 3" tubing on the inside part of the rocker as other people here have done. Then I can tie into the rollbar and have a stiffer setup. Gotta replace all of that anyway, might as well beef it up. The weight gain should be marginal.

Tabco Mill Supply I was going to add the link and forgot.

We saw that video at work a few weeks ago. We watched it about five times and laughed until we cried everytime watching those two cut that log.

I believe a lot of diesel engines in semi trucks have both super charger and turbos. I am hoping that my engine combo will be "fun" to drive because it will make ~300lbft of torque at 2000 rpm and ~420lbft at 5000 rpm. So it should feel like it is pulling you back in the seat harder as it wraps up.

I am in the middle of the conversion and have spent: $500 for the car $350 for R200 LSD $500 for tranny $1500 on tools $500 on JTR kit/tranny rebuild/roll cage I am estimating $5000 for the rest of the parts to finish the car. Seats, radiator, gas tank, body parts, etc etc Another $3000 to build my engine. This doesn't include engine machine work costs or painting the car. Should end around 12k for the entire project.

I knew that pic reminded of another I had seen. Bill

I was just being funny, since those diesel engines probably weigh as much as a z-car. Plus they only wrap around 1900rpm. Just to remind that there is more to the story than a torque number, but you guys know that.

If torque was the "only"thing that mattered, then everyone would stick a diesel in their car. Then you could have like 2000lb/ft of torque. Isn't it actually the highest torwue at the highest rpm that is most desirable? I guess everything is a trade off. For torque at low rpm you need gearing to take advantage of it. Discuss on...