Carl Beck

Interesting side note perhaps - I received my Marksmanship Training from SMSgt. Sharp, U.S.A.F., circa 1968. He was an Olympic Mentalist Marksman and the person that General LeMay had as a consultant and advisor, when LeMay made the first military purchase of the M-16's for S.P.'s (Security Police) in SAC. Our rifle range was at the U.S.A.F. Air Crew Survival School in the mountains of Western Washington State. What a beautiful place it was - - No problem hitting a paper plate at 100 meters with a slightly reworked M16 when SMSgt. Sharp was holding it. Today I keep my AR-15 SP1 {.223} nearby... now if I can only find enough ammunition at affordable prices. FWIW, Carl B.

Call the Florida DMV office close to you - but you better have more infomation to start with. Does the car come with the proper "Import" paperwork? Has a local DMV Official inspected the car and approved it for a Florida Title? Find all this out - before you put any money at risk. Money is at risk whenever it is not in your bank account. good luck, Carl Clearwater, FL

Yes that would get one arrested here in Florida as well. Most States, if not all, have specific laws that forbid the removal or alteration of the VIN Tag visible though the windshield. It is there to aid law enforcement... If you get stopped for any reason, and that VIN tag is missing, the Officer can impound the car on the spot, and arrest you. Here in Florida, there is a specific process outlined by statute, that requires an Official from the DMV, or a State Highway Patrol Officer, or a County Sheriff to be physically present when the VIN tag visible though the windshield on a vehicle - is removed or altered for any reason. They have a specific form that documents the proper removal/alteration from the car. Then when the VIN tag is reinstalled one of the specified Officials must be present - and again the required forms be filled out and signed. Cars built from salvage are assigned a new VIN by the State... here in Florida the "rebuild" VIN's begin with FLA and are usually followed by the original chassis number. FWIW, Carl B.

That should work for the 280Z.. Just a NOTE: The information on the Black Dragon pages related to the 240-Z is somewhat screwed up as it relates to the VIN's and History... I wouldn't put too much faith in it. I sent them all manor of suggested corrections about two years ago - but they didn't correct any of it.. FWIW, Carl B.

a) They are only pop rivets holding the door data plate - easily removed and easily replaced. The entire rear quarter from another car was used to repair damage Isn't 1976 and below exempt from emissions inspections in Calif - were the 78 would not be exempt???? This seems to change often in California for some reason. FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that in order to get really useful information - you run Compression Tests on an engine that is up to normal operating temps. Metal expands with heat - and without heat you really don't know how good/bad things like rings are sealing up against the cylinder walls etc. With an engine that has sat for so many years - you really don't know if your good results are caused by good cylinder/piston sealing OR a good ring of rust around the tops of the pistons. I sure hope you put some light oil down into the cylinders - and let it soak for a day or so - BEFORE you started cranking the engine over. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh yea gad.... if you have Snap-On tools by all means stick with them. A Harbor Freight impact driver would just be so out of place I do have to admit - I have a 65th Anniversary Snap-On box {top, bottom and side}, with a more or less complete basic set of hand tools. It's a long story, but I do love the Snap-On tools. Many years ago - because of an insurance replacement when a local mechanic had his complete set stolen out of the Dealership he was working at - followed by his decision to get into another field altogether - I was able to pick up a brand new box and tools invoiced at over $18K... for $4K CASH the day he was moving out of State.... I'd have to get the exact brand/part number - but I also have to say that the drill bits from Harbor Freight - that are Cobalt Treated Titanium bits- - - are simply the BEST bits I've found in years!! The number of times used and the total steel they have drilled though - is about four times what I got from my Snap-On bit set! It's been a long time since I bought them - but as I recall the Snap-On set was over $250.00... The Harbor Freight set I bought last year was more complete and cost about $28.00!! They are so good the last time I was in Harbor Freight I bought another set just to have as a spare!! hummm... maybe that Harbor Freight impact driver wouldn't look so out of place.... FWIW, Carl B.

If you do much work with older cars - with older nuts/bolts/screws... I would highly recommend that you take a few minutes, and spend a little money on Aero Kroil. It is without question the most amazing penetrating oil I've ever found. When it comes to frozen/rusted fasteners - it will free items that PB etc can't begin to touch. You have to order it on-line, can't buy it anywhere else that I've found. It's really an industrial product... Come in a aerosol spray, or in liquid form. I use the aerosol most of the time ie Aero Kroil. See: http://KanoLabs.com Not cheap, but worth every penny. I always order two or three cans at a time to save shipping per can - but that will last the average guy a year or two if your working most weekends on old cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Don't remove the hinges - unless you have too for some reason. They are in a rubber boot that can not be replaced, plus it makes putting the hatch lid back in the proper place a real pain. Just remove the hatch from the hinge... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Should we throw in another "wheel' story? I have a Blue 72 Z that I bought new at the end of 71 - and it has the original set of Libra's on it. The white Z pictured - I'm the second owner of. I wanted another set of Libra's and found a good used set...no curb rash, good round stud holes etc. Plus they were real American Racing Libra's - not the other knock-offs. They were very oxidized when received - so I needed to refresh them. Bead blasted them and they looked much better. HOWEVER... being the first set of old aluminum wheels that I attempted to "refresh"..... da.... I made the mistake of Bead Blasting what is supposed to be a polished outer lip/ rim. No problem - I just had to sand the lip/rim down first - - then again with finer grit - - and finally wet sand them with very fine grit. That had to be followed with lots of polishing... After a few days of sanding - I was down to the final very fine wet sand step. As I was sanding the wheel - rust started to appear!! Yes red rust - I'd wash it off as I was wet sanding, but it kept coming back.... hummm..... this is strange... After a few minutes - I realised that it wasn't "rust" - it was blood from my finger tips!! All that sanding had not only taken some aluminum oxide, and Bead Blasted ruffness off - it had taken layers of skin off my fingers!! Took weeks to heal, and I could hardly touch anything without pain!! Lessons learned... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi DeLorean: Looks like a pretty nice 240Z, and thanks for sharing the pictures. Personally - I love White/Red 240-Z's. Although I have to say that in my opinion, the Libra's are the best looking wheel - if you like period matching stuff on a more or less stock 240-Z. I still have the original Libra's I purchased for my Blue 72 Z at the end of 1971. I bought them from BRE and still have the invoice. Are you sitting down? As I recall they were $24.95 plus shipping at that point. Today - a really fine, non curb rash set will usually sell for about $75.00 to $85.00 each. This is the Z I drive on most longer Road Trips - Pretty much stock - but with a 83 ZX 5 spd. to keep the RPM's and engine noise lower in the 80-85 mph range. I love driving this Z on the highways and by-ways of America. It's Spring - get out on the roads and see America! FWIW, Carl B.

The Date was 1966 and it was done when BRE had been established. Given the prominence of both Mr. Lucas and Mr. Brock, I suggested that the Brocks put the still images taken at the filming of this short movie on-line for all of us to enjoy. This has now been done and its another amazing story in and of itself. According to Mr. Brock: George Lucas's first love was CARS, and he had planned to become a professional race car driver. A serious accident shortly after his High School graduation in 1962 ended that dream. A few years later, in 1966 Lucas was a student at USC film school with the assignment of directing a short film. Still interested in cars, he wrote a script for a film called "1:42:08 To Qualify". Knowing Alan Grant at Shelby America Lucas ask for a recommendation for a driver for his film. Grant recommended Peter Brock, who had been a consultant and driver for the movie industry. (e.g. stunt driver in the 1964 movie "The Killers"). Brock had left Shelby America just months before to open his own company - BRE. Mr. Brock borrowed a Lotus 23 and a few days were spent filming at the Willow Springs Race Track under the direction of Mr. Lucas. Brock says the most memorable part of the experience were the evenings where they hung out and Lucas shared his vision for a series of sci-fi movies. “It sounded kind of like Buck Rogers with strange creatures and better weapons. Very strange and we just kind of nodded and patronized this enthusiastic kid.†Even to this day Brock gets emotional relaying the story. There’s nothing that touches Brock more than seeing someone with a unique vision make their dreams come true, especially if they’re going against standard conventions... sounds kind of like the story of the Cobra Daytona Coupe, doesn’t it? If you would like to see - or better still own a copy - of the pictures taken in 1966, just visit the BRE Web Site: http://BRE2.net Look under "PHOTOGRAPHY".. then select BRE Archives to view the pictures. Amazing.... now I'm looking for a copy of "The Killers" FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks for Posting This!! I had been a huge fan of Peter Brock since the mid 60's and I still am today. Mr. Brock was hired by Carroll Shelby as his first driving instructor, when Shelby opened his School Of High Performance Driving around 1962. Mr. Brock worked with his friend Ken Miles to develop the curriculum for the school. A bit later Shelby hired Bob Bondurant as an instructor as well. The film produced by the then "student", Mr. Lucas was shot while Mr. Brock was working there, so it must have been 63/64 perhaps. If nothing else - Mr. Shelby seems to have had a good eye for talent and gathered a lot of it around himself during those days. On thing that I noticed in the film, is the helmet that Mr. Brock is wearing. Although it seems to be silver and white at the time - It was later Red, White, Blue when worn at the Baja. I don't know if it's the exact same helmet - but the graphic design is basically the same. Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports owns it today and has it on display at his shop. I duplicated it for display with the BRE Baja Z during the restoration of the car. Of course Mr Brock has his own Web Site today - and it is an interesting place to visit if you have an interest. http://BRE2.net FWIW, Carl B

Hi Guys: I don't believe that we need a lot of pictures, so much as we need a few very good ones, all shot from the same angle and distance. Graphic information such as pictures should be presented in a consistent manor, otherwise it becomes too confusing to the minds-eye. You also don't want to present toooo much information at one time. First we could pin down the major difference between the door to body interface with one set of pictures. Then we could pin down smaller details with a second set of pictures. Following this thread and several others over the years, it seems to me that we need to focus on one main area of the doors, that defines the various production years. That one main area seems to be the shape of the lower rear corner. The outside skins on all the doors are the same shape - it's the area of the door that fits inside the body that is the most easily identifiable shape. This Picture is for example / discussion only... and of course each picture would have a caption to define the year/model etc. FWIW, Carl B.

See Post #23. It would appear that the change was made EARLY in the 76 Model Year, which would have been LATE in Calendar Year 1975 {Aug}. It would seem that something less than 3000 76 Model Year units were produced with the earlier type doors/latches. Yes/No? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: Can you tell me who/which "The site" is? The site we are on or the site you are pointing us to? Secondly - what is meant by "hot linking" - I'm not certain I understand what it is that the site doesn't like. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Jon: "our cars" ??? is that as in "our race cars?" "30mm pistons"?? is the "piston" attached to the shock rod, inside the tube or cartridge? Just for some trivia - thought I'd post a picture or two - of the inserts that were in the Nissan Competition Struts circa 1970/73. On these the shock rod is 30mm. Rather than attempt to have them rebuilt -for a car that will no longer be raced - I'm replacing them with the Tokico's for now. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Someone mentioned.. in this very long and old thread... that when switching to non OEM type shocks, you may have to drill out the hole in the shock/strut isolators to accommodate the larger diameter threaded ends of the adjustable Illuminas. That changes the original "D" shape hole in the isolator - to an "O" shape, and in so doing, does not provide a stop (so to speak), to keep the shock rod from turning while putting the top nut on/off. Nor does the Illimina have a stop anywhere close to the isolator. There is one an inch or so below, most likely for the original application - but I can't see how it can be used in the shortened struts of the Z. Question is - what have others done, and/or what is best practice? Is a rubber strap wrench the only solution? thanks, Carl B.

Here I believe it is important to distinguish between "Production Year" and "Model Year" The 77 "Model Year" for the US Spec. 280Z's started Aug. 1976. According to the Parts Catalog the doors changed at: Up to HLS30 272991 used the S30 doors From HLS30 272992 used the S31 doors According To Nissan - 280Z Production: Model Production Chassis Number 1975 Dec. 74 to July75 200002 – 270000 1976 Aug. 75 to July76 270001 – 350000 1977 Aug. 76 to July77 350001 – 420000 1978 Aug. 77 to June78 420001 - 470009 So we can see - maybe - that yes indeed the change over was made during the 1976 model Year. FWIW, Carl B.

Daeron: Can you start by posting a picture.. at the same viewing angle as ArnZ's last picture ---- of the 78 280Z door. That seems so far in this discussion, to be the one we don't have a good view of. thanks, Carl

ArnZ: Is that the actual and/or complete extent of a written quote you received from Sunbelt? I see no break-out of any time for custom head work for example. Or is it just the outcome of a phone conversation... talking in general terms? Just curious... seems somewhat unlike Sunbelt... Also what is your intent with the engine? Street use or Drag Racing? or??? FWIW, Carl B.

That's fine... I'm looking for the same pictures of your Z - that I Posted at Post #8 above. The opening in the body of your Z and the inside of the door, without the trim if possible. FWIW, Carl B.

Again... it depends... There are two different bodies that were marketed as "260Z's" here in the States. The early 260Z used the same body as the earlier 240-Z's while the Late Year 260Z's used the same body as the 75 280Z. As for which resembles your 75 Fairlady - - pictures of the doors and door openings that we could all see might help... FWIW, Carl B.

That depends upon what Country. According to Eiji all JDM first generation Z's had the recessed area. At least his 77/78 280Z here in the States did not... See: Sept. 10th report http://blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/archives/2007-09.html'>http://blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/archives/2007-09.html Lots of interesting information in the Archives there..month by month http://blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/ FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Here in the US - our 75/76 280Z's bodies have several detail differences from the 77/78 280Z. The "S31" body shell started production in July of 76 for the JDM. So your doors came off a late 76.. and they would have been different in shape/design than the doors off your 75. A way of looking at it - is that the "S31" in Japan, is the bodyshell used for the 77-78 280Z in the US. , but without many of the reinforcing / strengthening plates/panels found on our 280Z's. The US FMVSS required not only the stronger side door guard beam, but strengthening of the entire door frame, as well as changes to the openings in the car body itself for 77/78. Not counting latches... you can put a 77/78 280Z door on a 240Z body - and it will bolt right up to the hinges...and (not counting latches) it will close.... but it will NOT seal to the 240Z (S30) body...even if you change the latches... because the 280Z has a different shape to the body openings and doors... In this picture from Datsun Spirit Web Site (below)... you can see the body redesign / reinforcing on the 77/78 280Z body for the door openings (aka S31 in Japan) ... and the doors are different than that of the 75/76 280Z Gray door below. (S30). FWIW, Carl B.