awd92gsx

I don't doubt that one bit. I run the direct drive starter (standard Chevy starter) that JTR claims won't clear either. I've found a couple of major errors in the JTR manual, but, overall it's ok...besides, not much else out there.

According to the JTR manual, the first type will not fit in the V8Z. The second is the gear reduction starter off of 97-00 Chevy trucks (small or big block) and fit fine.

All of the wiring is done in the engine bay, except that you'll want to run a new wire to the fuel pump. I placed the relay setup down by the battery, near the starter solenoid to keep the wiring length at a minimum. I had some spare 10 guage amp wire that I wasn't using anymore so it ended up working out pretty good. Voltage drop across the entire circuit *should* be almost nil (less than .1v)

OK...here's the schematic. I had to redraw it, but, you should get the basic idea. Doing it this way ensures full voltage reaches the fuel pump, while being very very simple to install.

Why are you giving up on the project? You have a very nice Z as a basis to start with.

Thanks Freerider. Sometimes patience can pay off big dividends for po' folk such as myself!! I'm still saving up to buy one of 280Zone's hoods...I *think* of painting the hood black...to continue the black/red theme I currently have. It could be a bold and risky move that would surely further the love it/hate it movement...but, I think it would look ok...and since my ugly mug is the one that has to be seen in it, that's what really matters the most. Other than that, I'm still contemplating getting some smoked headlight covers.

I went an entirely different route than the JTR manual. I used a relay and a diode to operate the fuel pump system. I also ran a dedicated wire directly to the fuel pump for maximum voltage to the pump and the least amount of voltage draw from the HEI system. It worked out quite nice and is very easy to install due to it's simplicity...even easier, imho, than the JTR method. If anybody is interested I can find the schematic I drew up for it. I feel it's a superior alternative to the JTR method (that relies on 25+ year old wiring), but, everybody has their own opinions.

Does California offer any kind of collector's emission exemption? We just got it in AZ, but, you have to insure your car as a collector's item, rather than a daily driven vehicle...which, of course, carries mileage restrictions.

Why can't you just run the normal Chevy A/C bracket and compressor and hook it up to the datsun evaporator with custom hoses?

I'm running a TH350, but, I ONLY drive in stop and go (in city) traffic. I can see where freeway driving would be crazy. I'll probably switch to a 200-4R, but, only to pick up OD.

Make that 3.

Here's what I spent on my conversion: Here's what I've spent so far on the swap (from memory) $130 on the JTR mount adapter kit w/speedo cable- picked it up second hand, but, new $500 on donor car (1977 GMC Sprint/Chevy El Camino - 350ci/th350 trans) $100 on Chevy radiator * $55 on Driveshaft flange adapter * $65 on Radiator Mounting Kit * $19 on Coolant Temp Sensor adapter $8 on GM Oil Pressure switch $80 on block hugger headers (actually more, but, the first set doesn't count) $120 on Electric Fan w/Thermostat (3300 cfm! much cheaper than Flex-A-Lite 150 which is $300) * $12 on Spray Paint $12 on Wire Loom $20 (or so) on Various Nuts and Bolts $95 on Driveshaft modification (not performed yet) $180 on Edelbrock 650cfm carb (not purchased yet) $120 on B&M Tranny Shifter $36 on a Delco Reman Alternator * $70 on Gear Reduction Start $150 on Exhaust (not purchased yet) $25 on new Oil Filter/Spark Plugs/Plug Wires/Thermostat $20 on Aftermarket Engine/Tranny Mounts - JTR recommends using GM mounts, but GM mounts are over $50 a piece!! (and GM doesn't carry the reommended tranny mount any longer) ----------------------------------------- All in all, that's a little over $1800 so far (after you include shipping for some of the parts). One thing I need to change is the exhaust. It turns out I knew the guy that runs the Meineke down the street, so he hooked me up on the exhaust and didn't charge me. So, I actually have about $1650 into the swap. Since I didn't really need the Starter, you can take off another $70 (although I did go back and get a new starter later, it was optional) * = parts that were replaced for cosmetic reasons or were not necessarily needed, but, made things easier. Now, yes, I do work in the parts business and got a few of the things a bit cheaper (such as the alternator)..but, for the most part, everything was gotten through Autozone or places like it. I did forget to list spark plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets, though. Add $40 to the total. I bought my car about 3 years ago for $2500 with the suspension and wheels already in place (which saved me about $2500 in the long run). I have about $1400 into the bodykit/paint.

There are some headers on Ebay that work great for the swap that usually run about $60, that'll save you a bunch over going name brand. I haven't had any problems with mine. If you're dropping it in a 280Z you can save money by using the standard direct drive starter than came with the engine (if it came with one) vs. buying a gear reduction unit. Even if you do have to buy one you can get the direct drive for cheaper. That'll save you about $200 or so in the long run. Granted, the headers aren't jet hot coated, but, they work, have 1-5/8 primaries, and 3/8" flanges. Here's some Chrome ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7976164410&category=33631 They fit very nice in my application (JTR setup). There are some other ones (marked by Hotzone performance). These will NOT work. You have to get the blockhuggers with the angled collector flange.

The easiest thing to do is buy the pinion adapter from JTR and get your Chevy driveshaft shortened to the proper specs (which varies by which tranny you are planning on using) https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html

If you slap a set of aluminum heads on a SBC (along with aluminum intake and headers) the SBC won't really weigh anymore than the engine you have in there now.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101275

Well, I will be honest...I looked for over a year for a cheap donor vehicle. You might call around and see if there are any kind of hot-rod swaps. The donor vehicle I bought wasn't running...they got frustrated and after sitting for a couple of years I got it cheap. The only problem it had was they had accidentally blocked the fuel filter inlet on the carb with a paper o-ring type gasket. I spent $14 on the Q-jet rebuilding it and haven't had a problem since. The faster you want to get it done the more it will cost, unfortunately. Basically it works like this Cheaply Quickly Completely Pick any two.

Here's what I spent on my conversion: Here's what I've spent so far on the swap (from memory) $130 on the JTR mount adapter kit w/speedo cable- picked it up second hand, but, new $500 on donor car (1977 GMC Sprint/Chevy El Camino - 350ci/th350 trans) $100 on Chevy radiator * $55 on Driveshaft flange adapter * $65 on Radiator Mounting Kit * $19 on Coolant Temp Sensor adapter $8 on GM Oil Pressure switch $80 on block hugger headers (actually more, but, the first set doesn't count) $120 on Electric Fan w/Thermostat (3300 cfm! much cheaper than Flex-A-Lite 150 which is $300) * $12 on Spray Paint $12 on Wire Loom $20 (or so) on Various Nuts and Bolts $95 on Driveshaft modification (not performed yet) $180 on Edelbrock 650cfm carb (not purchased yet) $120 on B&M Tranny Shifter $36 on a Delco Reman Alternator * $70 on Gear Reduction Start $150 on Exhaust (not purchased yet) $25 on new Oil Filter/Spark Plugs/Plug Wires/Thermostat $20 on Aftermarket Engine/Tranny Mounts - JTR recommends using GM mounts, but GM mounts are over $50 a piece!! (and GM doesn't carry the reommended tranny mount any longer) ----------------------------------------- All in all, that's a little over $1800 so far (after you include shipping for some of the parts). One thing I need to change is the exhaust. It turns out I knew the guy that runs the Meineke down the street, so he hooked me up on the exhaust and didn't charge me. So, I actually have about $1650 into the swap. Since I didn't really need the Starter, you can take off another $70 (although I did go back and get a new starter later, it was optional) * = parts that were replaced for cosmetic reasons or were not necessarily needed, but, made things easier. Now, yes, I do work in the parts business and got a few of the things a bit cheaper (such as the alternator)..but, for the most part, everything was gotten through Autozone or places like it. I did forget to list spark plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets, though. Add $40 to the total.

Well...it depends alot on what your goals are. If you can't get a basic V8 drivetrain put into a 1G Z and be driving for less than $3000 something is wrong. I have about $1600 or so total into my V8 swap (NOT including the car, of course). Sure, I might not have an LS1/T56 combo...but, the V8Z runs, drives, gets good gas mileage, and doesn't seem to have any problems so far. Is the car completely finished? Well...no...it's not. But, I can finish it as time and money allows and still drive it back and forth to work every day.

I think that's one of the things he's replaced a couple of times.

Stupid question time: Are you sure the distributor is actually turning?

A short block is usually just the block fitted with the crank, pistons, and rods. A long block adds to that cylinder heads, timing chain, and timing cover and sometimes an oil pan. "Small blocks" generally refer to the smaller V8 sizes, typically between 305-400ci" (some aftermarket companies produce "small blocks" that go over 400ci, however, as a general rule, Chevy has not produced many 400+ci small blocks. Generally, all small block engine exterior components are interchangeable and some interior components are interchangeable. Big blocks generally range from 454ci-502ci. For all intensive purposes, most people begin with a small block 350ci. There is no big block 350 that I know of.

I have around...umm... $1700 or so into my total swap (not including the car, of course), but, it's a 280Z, not a ZX. I also shopped around alot for parts. I even replaced some things that didn't need to be replaced (such as a new alternator - didn't need it, but, thought it would look nicer and a few chrome pieces here and there), but, didn't spend my money on alot of high dollar items. I'm also using the TH350 that came with the engine (I bought an old El Camino donor car for $500). So, while it is driveable and fun, I could have spent more on an O/D tranny and saved me a little work...I don't regret going the TH350 route, though. If I didn't, the car woudn't be driving at the moment because I'd still be saving up for a different transmission. If you're not going to be putting out a ton of HP reinforcements aren't really necessary. I'd say get the engine in first and then start worrying about extras.

Thanks... I'll look into Reaction...been thinking about one of their SubtleZ kits anyway. You know...this is going to sound really n00bish of me...but, what the hell. I took a guy at work's advice and checked out the mechanical advance on my distributor...it wasn't working AT ALL!! Must've been bound up or something. Got it working...man, what a difference it makes in midrange. Tip: If you haven't checked to see if your mechanical advance works,...check it now!!

Thanks guys The specs on the engine are fairly normal. Engine was pulled from a '77 El Camino...rattle canned the block, valve covers, and repainted the edelbrock intake aluminum silver. So...basically... Stock 350 Edelbrock Performer Intake "El-Cheapo" 1-5/8 block huggers Quadrajet (came with the engine and only cost me $14 to rebuild - seems to run good and give sme good mpg) Turbo 350 transmission (will more than likely swap to a 200-4r in the next month or so) I can't say that the engine is a super powerhouse, but, it runs good, is very easy to drive, gives good fuel economy (better than the I6 I pulled out) and is very enjoyable to drive. I was on an extreme budget...all in all, I have about $1400-1500 total into the swap...give or take.