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I'm not 100% sure if this is true on Datsuns or not...but... As a Mits tech I've seen people use Dot 5 in their cars only to have it swell up every seal in the entire braking system. This has caused more than one customer to have to replace every caliper/wheel cylinder/master cylinder/other sealed component in their vehicle. Just stick with Dot 4 and you'll be safe!!

Great googly moogly! $8800 will buy you a whole lot of HP in a SBC...

Wait a minute...you mean...you're running those times through stock Z rear end?!?

Yep. And I saw 280Zone's post about your car and showed it to everybody I knew!!

Yeah, I'm running 16"'s, but, they're the same basic "style"

With your old wheels, your car looked alot like mine does.

What are the advantages of even an LS1 over a compareably built up 1G SBC 350? Unless you just happen to have an LS1 laying around, you'd still spend more just buying a stock LS1 than you would a pre-built 400+hp SBC...that is, unless you happen to find a crackhead deal on an LS1. There are always those people, though, that will buy the LS7 just to say "Yeah, I have an LS7"

To JTR's defense, they do recommend re-routing the brake and fuel lines.

Will you need to drive the car on the Freeway/Highway/Interstate? If so, you'll probably need to look out for a 700-R4 or a 200-4R. (or a manual with overdrive)

I was gonna suggest try checking/changing the distributor fluid...but, figured that was already covered.

Actually, I felt like throwing up. J/K

Well, it is (and probably always will be) a street driven car. So...no need to go too "all out" on a set of crazy performance heads. From what I've been researching, the Trickflows are going to be my choice.

Thanks Grumpy. More than likely this will be the ONLY chance I get to really spend some decent money on my engine for a very long time. So, basically, I'd like to get a set of heads that I know I'll never have to upgrade. It seems like the Vortec's, while OK, fall somewhere in the middle when it comes to performance. Based on everything you just pointed out, I think I'll ante up and pick up some aluminum heads. Any dealings with the quality of Edelbrock vs. Trickflow?

Tony, Remember, if it doesn't chirp the tires then you'll probably feel it even more!

Grumpy, Seeing as how I have the old '77 emissions heads, wouldn't it be in my best interest to move to something like a 64cc head to raise compression (with everything else being equal)? Is it worth the extra $$ for the lighter weight aluminum heads.

OK...I haven't found a definitive answer via searching...so, I'll add to this post: What do you guys think about the Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads? My engine is basically bone stock from a '77 El Camino. It was rebuilt to stock specs a few years ago and doesn't use any oil/smoke. So...I was thinking the easiest way to get a bit more HP would be through the heads...I already have an Edelbrock performer intake (will be replaced with the same intake, but, EGR version soon) My thoughts are to pick up a set of Edelbrock Performer 64cc chambered aluminum heads ($1019/pair from Summit) http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs/bigbook/2005/julyaug/132f.html Now, because of emissions, I need to keep emissions provisions and be able to pass maximum 6 cylinder emissions (shouldn't be too much of a problem, unless I decide to go crazy with a cam) Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.

Have you tried Summit?

Yeah, I haven't been here as long as others, but, I can see Grumpy in that all day long.

Ray' date=' You're hearin' us, but, you ain't listenin' brutha!! People usually run much faster than you on engines WAY smaller than a 383 using standard Datsun rear ends without any custom, or non-stock, rear end gear ratios. The 383 is a stroker motor designed to give power in the low to mid range RPM power band. Unless you've dropped an extra 2,000 pounds in your Z that would require MORE torque than what you're getting out of the engine there is absolutly, positively, indubitably, nothing wrong with the gearing of a Z...or AT LEAST not enough to make such a big difference in what you *should* be running vs. what you are running. Your Z doesn't NEED any more torque than what a 383 can put out to run a solid 12 second or faster time [i']through the stock Datsun 3.54[/i] rear end. Either A) The engine is not running correctly on all 8 cylinders or The power transfer from the engine is being lost between the engine and the ground through slippage somewhere. Don't forget that the El Camino probably had a curb weight of around 3500 lbs and the Monza around 3200 lbs. Even IF your Z weighed as much as the Monza, the gearing isn't going to change your ET 3 seconds and it would probably have less of an effect on your trap speed.

Jim, Don't get any ideas. Just get the engine in the car first!!

Solder crush tests are also what we use when we rebuild trannies. Probably fairly common I suppose.

Even if you had some custom one off 2.x:1 ratio rear end, a 383 in a Z should be running faster than 86mph in the 1/4 mile. There's something else wrong with your car. The rear end is fine...ESPECIALLY for a 383. It'd be one thing if you had a 4,000 pound car with a 305...but, we're talking a sub 3,000 pound car with a 383 cubic inch V8. Your '77 280Z should have a 3.54 rear end, which is already a bit shorter than most Chevy's. (hence the reason TH350's work like garbage in a V8Z on the freeway, even though in the Chevy chassis with Chevy rear end it works perfectly fine).

Is the starter a gear reduction type and does it "whir" when it tries to start?

Looks good. Now that the easy part is done, the fun begins

What's your trap speed?