spork

I went with the act for my 280zxt...pushing just over 20psi on my T3/T04E and still holding...but I think it's getting towards its limit. If I run it back to back for 6-7 passes in hot weather I can start to feel a little slip. For your setup I think it should be plenty. As long as I drive sanely...not hotlaping all day at the track, I still don't have any problems with regular racing.

you saying the spirit r/t's are built like tin cans, or the k-cars? my best friend has a spirit r/t...ran a 13.9 bone stock. He's just about got it running again, this time with upgrades. fresh motor, hybrid turbo pushing 23psi, spearco intercooler...and all the goodies to go along with that stuff. Were hoping for mid to low 12's. Only problem is...those cars are heavy...3100 pounds dry weight! My 83 zxt weighs around 2800. don't see how you could consider that light.

did the 280zxt's actually have a rev limiter? I've been told several times that they don't...and what I'm experiencing is the valves floating rather than a rev limiter. I sure would like to know some thing for sure. Is there documentation somewhere that would say? Mines an '83 by the way

well, I'll know for sure this friday when I go to the track...but I just pulled and replaced a bum O2 sensor. It varied in the stoich and lean ranges on my gauge but wasn't getting more than a bar or so to the rich side. I went on a hunch and replaced it...The new O2 is showing me 4-5 bars rich. Pulled out the volt meter and check the voltage. .96 volts @WOT WEll, I backed off the fuel a bit and went for a ride. hit it hard in third gear and fishtaled a bit. Needless to say, The car is running much better and I've lost the sluggishness I had before and my boost seems to hit quicker and harder now. On a similar note...I go through a lot of O2 sensors (around 6 in the last 2 years)...anyone else have this problem...I've been running the bosch ones from autozone. Is there a better alternative? James

well, if possible I'd like to be able to keep the stock exhaust housing so I can keep my internal wastegate and down pipe setup w/out changing flanges. Would a 50 trim on the compressor side still with stage one exhaust wheel, help me out? Or do I really nee to get away from the stage 1 wheels?

I should've stuck to my guns...but I knew very little about turbo compressor maps and such so I relied on the place that built it for me to help me in my decision. Is there anything short of pulling the turbo and swapping wheels that I can do to help reduce my problem? James

I've got an 83 280zxt that I recently changed out my headgasket and swapped a T3/T04E into. I'm using the stock .63 exhaust housing with wheel, and I'm using a 57 trim wheel on the compressor side w/ stage one wheels. My problem is that it seems like my powerband has moved up in the rpm range beyond much useability. I don't get full boost till bout 4000 rpm (20psi) and then my car pulls hard past 6500rpm. Well, I was thinking that 6500 is getting way to far up there for a motor w/ stock internals. Am I wrong. When I shift my car seems to lag a little while before boost picks back up, and I think my car was actually faster with the stock t3 pushing 20psi (I'll know next friday when I go to the track). I even had done whats known as a "quick spool option" done to my turbo. For those that don't know what this is, they remove weight off the rotating assembly in every area possible (that doesn't effect strength) to allow it to "spool quicker" similar to how a lighter flywheel helps the car rev quicker. If anyone can help me to straighten my car out, please feel free to offer suggestions. Hell, even if it means I picked the wrong turbo, I wanna know whats going on. James

can the HKS super seq. be plumbed back in? i thought it was designed to vent to atmosphere. Maybe I wasn't clear enough in my original post but I want to plumb it back in...so the ones that are loud don't do me any good. Am I wrong about being able to plumb these blow-off valves back into the intake?

I've got an 83 280zxt that I'm currently installing a T3/TO4E hybrid. I plan on runng 15-20psi of boost and I need a blow off valve that I can plumb back into my intake. I was told of a few that hks makes, but what is everyone else using? I'm hoping to keeps costs down if I can, but I don't really want to skimp either. Thanks for the help. James

Thanks. I'd already read the post and seen the pic but I wanted a number like the 6" that you gave me. James

Well, I'm gonna venture into the 12 sec. range this year on street tires and I need to install a driveshaft loop. I bought the universal one from summit or jegs, can't remember. Anyways, I haven't found any good pictures that show where it needs mounted. Does it go towards the front of the driveshaft, the rear, right in the middle? Please forgive my ignorance as I've never needed one of these before. If it matters, I have an 83 280zxt.

actually, its a radial, not bias ply...wierd, eh? anyways, thanks for the info, cause like I said, I'm flyin by the seat of my pants. oh, and I know they're only a year old...the guy buys several new sets each year...then sells his old sets right before he buys the new ones.

You guessed it, road racing...Many of my friends have had excellent luck with road racing slicks and you can get them supper cheap from the guys that only use them for one race. Locally some of the IMCA slicks sell for $20 each and they have atleast 50% tread. I bought mine on the net for $40 each but they have over 80% "tread" left. I know its not quite the same as a drag slick, but once again the guys I've talked to at the track said they were getting identical times (plus or minus a few hundreths) when they ran the Road race slicks/versus thier drag race slicks. And for as cheap as they are, I figure why not give them a shot myself. anyways, Sorry I didn't mention that in my original post. James

Hi, I've got an 83 280zxt and I just purchased some used yokohama racing slicks. These are a true slick (not usable on the street). Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has any tricks or tips when running race slicks. I've never run slicks before but I've been racing at the track now for 2 years. I'm used to running street tires and I launch at about 35-3700rpm but how high should I launch with slicks? If you're wondering heres a break down of my car: bw 5spd, stock bottom end, with a rebuilt turbo (to factory specs) running 18psi through a starion intercooler, cold air intake, and 3inch mandrel bent downpipe and exhaust. I'm running 370cc injectors and an ACT street modified clutch. I'm currently running 13.3@106mph with a sixty foot in the 2.0 range. What kind of 60ft should I be able to pull with slicks. They don't have much of a sidewall but they're super soft. The specs on them are 23x10x15. Oh, and I've been thinking about getting a line lock so I can warm them up, any suggestions on which one, or does it really matter? How much air pressure should I start with, and then work my way down from that number, right? um...the slicks have been heat cycled...so how long of a burnout do they need to get them ready to go, or is that just something I need to experiment with and see what works? Sorry, for all the questions, I'm just trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks, James

I e-mailed about the cost of the header and never got a reply back...oh well, thier loss... I can spend my money elsewhere.

well, my 83 runs right at 139-143 which are great numbers...your 120 I would say is average. I know the haynes manual says atleast 100psi in each, but the key is that you said theres a drop in the first cylinder. How big of a drop? They should generally be within 20% of each other. I personally prefer within 5 pounds of each other tho.

mines a daily driver with weekend street/drag racing. The goal is to make it into mid-low 11's and still drive to work everyday in it

I'll tell you what, I went with the street modified clutch from Act and I've been real happy with it, and its great for the street. My buddy with his turbocharged integra runs the 4 puck clutch and he says it gets a little tricky in stop and go traffic sometimes. It's up to you, but with the boost you plan on running, I's think even the street modified would be a good enough clutch for you...I think I paid just over $300 from nipponpower.com for mine. By the way, Mine holds great and I'm running 18-20psi out of the turbo.

has jason hinted as to what the retail price for this pump is gonna be? I figure I'll try to get my wife to get me one for my birthday in March if they're available by then.

Well, never had the car dynoed, but I have an 83 280zxt with starion intercooler (crap by the way) cold air intake, 3 inch mandrel exhaust, 370cc injectors, and the stock turbo pushing 18-20 pounds and I'm running 13.3's @ 106mph on 215/60/15 yokahoma street tires, definetly be in the 12's with slicks. This is with a car that weighs about 3040-3060 with me in it (well, probably more now since I've gained alittle weight and added the intercooler and pipes since I weighed it, but anyways you get the idea. using my 1/4 mile numbers (mph) on the calculator I have about 250+ at the wheels. I spent about $300 to achieve this. Unless you are awsome at sourcing cheap parts...plan to spend $500-$1000 or more if you can't do all the work yourself. I also had to put a clutch in (imagine that.) so thats another $300.Since the 13.3 run I put in a fuel pump hoping to cure a fuel problem that turned out to be a bad O2 sensor that was only a few months old. also, this is with a complete stock bottom end thats never been opened and has 166,xxx miles on it. By the way, I drive my car everyday, infact its my only car, so as you can imagine, the reliabilty is awsome. you can do stuff like the electric fan, big throttle body, electric water pump, etc, but they aren't neccissary for the HP you're lokking for. Hope I helped, and please excuse any spelling errors James

hmmm...sounds like I just might have to start laying out the fiberglass...lol

well, the wheels are in nebraska, and I'm in Kansas. Not a super long drive to get them, but I sure don't want to go up there just to find out theres no way that they'll work with my car.

I've got an 83 280zxt and I'm looking at buying a set of wheels for the rear of my car. They're 15x9 wheels with 295/50/15 tires on it, and were mounted on a 76 280z and the owner of the wheels says they have 3.5 inches of backset. Will these fit on my car without hitting suspension? I've got stock suspension in the rear. Will I need wheel spacers? if so, how thick? Thanks for any help you guys can give as I'd like to be able to get these by thanksgiving. Also I'm aware that most likely they'll stick out of the fender wells, but I'm gonna mount slicks on them as they'll only be used at the track. I am correct in assuming that they'll stick out of the fender wells, anyone know if they'd scrape when accelerating hard? James

I inquired about the same thing about a year ago on zcar.com. At some point I still plan on finishing it too...just haven't had time. But heres what I suggest doing before you start cutting into the car. Find a model of your car, like a plastic one that you can put together and then cut it apart to figure out where the proper roof cuts will need to be made. A car without t-tops will be much, much easier to do. With a lot of patience a car with t-tops could be done...but if you think you've got leaks now with factory tops like most people do...imagine the nightmare you might encounter after chopping the top and trying to re-do that expensive weatherstripping. Also, a t-top car has a lot more structural support problems that you may have to worry about. I was told that things would be much easier if you had a roll-cage or tube frame incorporated that way there wouldn't be as much stress on the original panels and the work done could be mostly cosmetic with out the worry of comprimizing structural integrity. Anyways, I say go for it...just remember the old saying...measure twice , and cut once. In this case I'd say measure 42 times, cut once. James

jeff, can you give us any idea what price range they'll be going for? I've been contemplating an electric water pump for a long time now, but have always worried about reliability...it sounds like this pump might be the ticket.