spork

Looks like its come a long way. Can't wait to see some finished pics with paint and all!

any underside pics?

Are you using wooden blocks to go around the pinch weld? I've seen that done before and it bothers me. The wood can and will split over time, so keep an eye on it. I've seen it happen, and the last thing you want is to have the car shift while its way up in the air. One shop I saw had a set of aluminum ones that were wrapped with some rubber sheet. Apparently they made them themselves.

We're still missing some of the information needed. Tire size and what kind of mph you expect to run. Try this link and once you get all your information together, input it and you'll be able to answer your own question. trans, gear, mph calculator

If you have access to a sandblaster, it will do wonders at getting them apart. Block off the oil passage and then blast all around the seam (with all bolts removed). They usually will come right apart if you do that. Clean everything up and re-assemble as needed.

That's hard to know without knowing what gear ratio you have in the r200, what your tire size is, and what rpm you plan on shifting at. If you get us those details, it'll be easy to know.

That figures...that's the book that I've been looking for..almost a week now. Probably loaned it out never to be seen again. Guess it's time to buy another copy! Thanks Tony!

Tony, you don't happen to have any pictures? I was pretty sure that the electramotive car used a motor plate...but I haven't come up with pictures any where. I've been skimming through books and websites without much luck so far. Like I said, I've got the midplate handled, but where to attach the front plate just looks kinda hairy.

Silly question, but are you checking the circuit when it's working, or when there is no power to the headlights? It should be pretty simple to diagnose when they're not working. Turn them on, if they don't work, start checking for power and ground at the harness connections. Start at the lights themselves and move back. Makes sure you are checking power and ground at each spot. Eventually, you'll come to a place that doesn't have one or the other. I suspect its the switch itself, whether or not the contacts were cleaned, it could just be wearing out. But if you follow the circuits path, you will find the problem. Just make sure it's not working when you trouble shoot!

Well, as some may know, I purchased Stony's black 260z drag car as a roller. I'm in the process of getting the engine and trans mounted (L-series w/ powerglide). I've got my midplate figured out and how it'll mount, but was trying to figure out a front motor plate. Honestly, it looks like it would be a mess. Has anyone done one on a l-series? If so, where did you attach it to the engine? Got any pictures? Should I skip the idea of a front motor plate and just solid mount at the stock motor mount locations? Is there any big advantage to the motor plate vs solid mounts in the stock locations on the block?

Well.. I understand the welding of the pilot, but why shave the rear of it 6mm? That's the confusing tid bit for me?

I'd like to see a little discussion on this part of the original post. Who else has heard of or done this modification? Can any real explanation be made. It seems I've heard a reference to this someplace before.

Did you try adjusting the dip switches on the back of the boost controller? I know you said it worked before, but there are adjustments you can make if it's overboosting. I figure it's worth a shot. Did you check to make sure your reference line to the back of the controller is hooked up? Also, are you running an internal or external wastegate? If it turns out that the profec is broken, I have a used one for sale in my parts for sale ad My link I know, it's a shameless plug, but I really do hope you can get yours working. I really liked mine when I had it on my car.

I have a bwt5 out of a 83 280zxt car. It has no bell housing. I bought it and was told it came from a good running car, but I never installed it. It was just a "back-up" for my race car, but I never tore up the one I had, so it was never needed. $75 plus shipping. If you give me your zipcode, I can quote shipping as well.

I haven't seen James Thagard post here recently, but he made an adapter plate kit for the GM trannies. I have one of his kits that I'm using for my power glide. He may be able to make another "kit" for the right price. It might be worth trying to track him down. His website used to be www.speedshopthagard.com, but it doesn't seem he has it anymore as the site is dead.

While it's entirely up to you, many people will run the turbo like that. It can be a fairly common place to crack. I've seen them run with no impact on performance. Yours definitely has a larger crack than most I've seen. If you can find a cheap housing without cracks, replace it.

You're probably on the right track with the heat. Just heat the pulley and the front seal should be fine. Worse comes to worse, you put a front seal in, but that's not a horrible thing either. How hard did this pulley go on initially? Id there a chance it just not pulling straight with the puller. I'd use heat and puller once its hot. No need for it to be glowing, just enough to expand the pulley some and loosen it up. Some "light" taps on the pulley while using the puller can help in keeping it pulling off straight. Inspect the snout and key and keyway before re-assembling.

A torch with mild heat does the trick, then scrape it off. You won't get every last bit, but they put the seam sealer on after it's been welded, so there is only so much actually between the 2 layers of metal. Then stich weld it up. Make sure you move around a lot to disperse the heat.

The flanges are already spot welded here and there, how are you going to "just open up" the sheetmetal? The 3M body panel adhesive is great stuff, but I don't think this would be a good use for it.

The hardest part I've found is to reach the speedo cable. If I remember right, I had a hard time getting mine from above, so I snaked my hand in from below.

Maybe I'm out of order here, but if he's going to get the rod bushed for a full floating pin, I'd want to have that done first and any other re-sizing that might need done, then balance. I'd hate to have to do them all over again. I second the balancing at home, pretty easy to do with the right jig. Just make sure that everything you do is repeatable. If your jig isn't quite right, you'll find that you can set up and take off the same rod several times and get several different weights. Once your Jig is good to go, life is easy from there. Don't forget to have the rod bolts installed that you plan on using as well.

Do you have a BWT5 now that you're replacing? If so, I have a trans without a bellhousing that I'll sell for a very good price. E-mail me at datsun280zxt@sbcglobal.net if you're interested.

PM SENT.

I have a tinted set and a clear set (but only one set of mounting brackets) clear ones are new and never installed, the tinted set have been installed but are in excellent condition. I'd like to sell them all together. Email me me if you still need a set and we can work out a good deal.

Without fender flairs, its hard to squeeze much tire under our cars. If you go with a fender flair, the options get a lot better. It all depends on how much power the car is putting out, and how much tire you really need. In a stock wheel well, I ran the M&H muscle car tires on a set of 6 spoke factory wheels. They were 235 60 14's. I ran 11.70's in the 1/4 with them. I liked the 14 inch wheel because with the factory wheel wells, I wanted as much sidewall as I could get, and 15 inch wheels didn't help in that aspect. They run well on the highway as a street tire, but they will wrinkle on a good hard launch. No clue what kind of life you'll get out of them, but mileage was never a concern for me. If they interest you, Email me. Here's a link to the m and h site for the particular tire I ran http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=73&rn=310&action=show_detail I'm parting out my current drag/street car since I bought a new one and would make you a hell of a deal on a set of wheels and the 2 M&H's I have, and they have plenty of life left in them.