spork

I purchased an electric fan from that company just about a week ago. Super fast shipping

The auto ecu has a quicker drop of the revs once you let off the throttle...and if you engne brake and your idle gets too low, the ecu senses that and the car lurches forward. Gets kinda of dangerous. Atleast on my car it did. James

jmortensen, I'm very much aware of what "most octane boosters" claim vs. actual boosts. Here's the page. I do apologize I was off on the octane increase, but check out the link, this stuff really works. http://torcoracefuels.com/torco/power/accelerator.htm

Have any of you guys tried the torco fuel additive? If you have a torco dealer around you it's worth trying some. If bought in bulk it can be had cheap but on the can per can basis it's about $15 a quart can. It brings 93 pump gas to 107octane. This isn't the typical "octane booster" that claims it'll raise your octane level 7-9 points. This actually brings it up to 105-107 depending on the grade of pump gas you can get in your area. I've been running it for a couple of years now and love it. My 83 280zxt with t3/t4 hybrid would ping at 18psi because of the agressive stock ignition timing. When I race I put in my torco and I've run as much as 23psi without detonation and never attempted to go any further. My best friend with a 91 spirit R/T (fastest full interior spirit R/T in the country "12.04") has allowed him to go from pinging at 17psi to 23-24 psi with no knock shown on his scan tool while racing. This stuff is awsome and worth a shot if you have a local dealer near you. And no, I don't have stock in this company or work for them. James

Is this all custom one-off stuff, or is there a chance you'd consider making another setup like this? I'm assuming that you made or had it all made rather than purchasinging this stuff as I've never seen it one the market before. Any idea what it cost you to do this? James

I can't get my pm to go through to you, so heres the info. They're ross pistons and priced at $664.00 with pins for the dished piston. $70 less for flat tops. I checked with venolia, JE and and a couple other companys and they all have a much longer lead time than Ross does. So that is also I slight concern for me, but if I go with flat tops, they'd be the best priced and quickest to get.

Hey, someone help me out. I've been talking to my machine shop about my currect engine build-up (l28et) I'm keeping compression low (in the 7.5-8.0:1 range and running a 2mm hks gasket. My question is about piston shape versus cylinder efficiency and which one promotes the best flame travel for my setup. I'll be running the P-90 head if that matters. I'll be the first to admit that I know little to nothing about flame travel etc other than the concept of what happens. The deal is I can get forged flat top pistons for $70 cheaper than dished pistons, but I don't want to compromise any engine performance just for $70. Some one please help, I don't have the education/experience in this area to make the correct decision. Thanks, James

alex, why will the valve lash never be right? can you explain?

Alright, I've got an 83 280zxt and I was wondering about swapping the cam from my p-90a with hydraulic lifters(yes it actually has the hydraulic lifters) onto a regular p-90 head from an 81 turbo car. I guess my main question concerns adjusting the valves. I've talked to a couple of local shops about this and wanted to confirm as they're used to mostly v-8 setups. Anyways, what I've been told is that when I'm running a cam designed for hydralic lifters that I can/should decrease rocker to cam clearance. I've got a buddy with a 351 clevland that had his motor setup like this and hasn't had any problems, so I figured I'd throw this idea past some of the more experienced guys to see what they think. I'm not really looking for theroies, but more actual experience. Thanks, James

I'm building an omni right now actually. Using a t-3 turbo motor from a spirit r/t. We're building it a little more hardcore than we did for the spirit, and the spirit put down right at 400hp to the ground. The omni will probably sport a full t-4 rather than a hybrid and probably push around 500hp.

Go to a decent bodyshop supply store and they'll have a filler designed to repair cracks in dashes. Simple as that.

Number 5 is where mine came apart.

damn...$1.75, I remember those days...the price has dropped a lot here lately. Regular is 1.28 (not that I'd dream of putting that in my z) and premium(91) is about a 1.40ish. James Roraback Salina, KS

alright, but from what vehicle? Do I just need to rumage through a bunch of boxes at the parts store to find what I want?

Hey, I've got an 83 280zxt that I'm installing my sds system into. What plug wires work good? My current accel 8.8 wires won't work as they have the wrong ends on them to be able to hook up to the coil packs. I was just curious what make/model of cars everyone stole thier wires from. Also, anyone got any pics of where they mounted all thier components? Thanks, James

well, I just purchased a used spearco 18x6x3.5 (it flows 1080cfm)I believe. My current intercooler pipes are only 2 inch as that was easiest since thats the size that comes off the turbo. I could use the same pipes very easily with the new intercooler, but do I need to go bigger, and if so, how much bigger(2.25-2.5)? As far as the injectors, I figured I needed larger ones but I haven't had time to do the math to figure out what cc I need for the hp I'm looking at. I only had the 370's because from what I was told thats as big as you could and still get it to idle with the stock 83 fuel injection. Also how big of a TB? Stick with the common 60mm swap? Anyways, thanks for all the advice so far, and keep it coming. One last thing, on the head, are bigger valves benifcial in my situation, or are they not worth the money at my hp level? James

I've seen a quite a few ford guys and a few dodges guys running turbos off dodge pickups that cummins motors. They tend to swear by them and you can pick them up at scrap yards hear and there. Some come with a t3 flange and some have a t4 flange. Do some searches on the net and you'll come across them. James Roraback

Sounds more lke they're going to make it a super 60 or super 70 rather than a hybrid. Bot are upgrades from stock and theres nothing wrong w/them. They're definetly no hybrid tho. If you're going to do it, get a whole new compressor housing and wheel. You'll be much happier w/ the performance potential. James Roraback

Tim's right. The cartridge type resporaors won't do the trick. And iso's can be absorbed through skin and even the eyes. Not a good deal.

One thought is that an injector is staying open. Pull the rail back and pressurize things up. You'll know pretty quick if an injector is staying open. I'm not real sure about the check valve in the pump, but I know when I replaced mine in my 83 280zxt with a walboro pump, the pressure stays for a couple of days.

Heres a few pics of the system and the car. It's just a basic spearco water injection kit. If I had the chance to do it over again, I would've made my own with a high pressure setup using a shurflow pump and so on. either way, this kit does work pretty well. I can run 20 psi (never tried the 23) on the street with 91 pump gas. Without the water injection I'd ping pretty hard. James

I guess I never paid any attention to the photo album on this site. I'll post pics later tonight. As far as him not getting traction...he's pulling low 1.7's on the 60ft (quaffe diff [sp?]). That's gettin it done in my book. Also as far as the diff goes...I have a welded 3.54. I tried a 3.9 and lost time and MPH so I went back with the 3.54's. I've been told it's gotta do with the resistance and building boost quicker and thats why I did better with the 3.54's. I dohave just the stock throttle body and had been thinking about uypgrading to something like the 240sx one but I've heard a lot of it is just hype and all that it does is get a little quicker throttle response and not actually help in power. About the bigger injectors, I've been thinking about upgrading because when the motor is done, I'll likely raise boost some more. Anyways, when I post pics, what do you want to see? the water injection kit? anything else? I'll forewarn you...my car is pretty ugly so theres mot much to see. James

My biggest problem is he's 2200lbs and I'm 3000lbs. So hes got 8 tenths of a second on me in just weight (hp to hp) (he put 315 to the ground last month). I just purchased an SDS engine management system too so I'll have to get that figured out too. As far as the water/methanol injection goes, what kind of info are you after? I can get pics of anything you want, but I don't have any place good to host the files. About the engine build, I just want to make sure I'm on the right path. No one out here in Kansas seems to know anything about these engines. Its sad when I've only been into z's for about 4 years and I'm the resident expert...lol.

no one has any advice???

your best bet at this point is to do a leak down test. Get ahold of leak down gauge and apply air to each cylinder. This kind of test will give you a better idea of what condition the engine is in. Sometimes when the car burns oil, it can then falsify your compression test because the oil is helping seal the rings. When you do a leak down and hold air in that cylinder for awhile, you'll get a better idea of whats really going on. James