Booztd 3

View this sticky http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119041

Yes its an R32 RB26. The intake manifold and throttle bodies are stock for now. The radiator will sit underneath the core support, should will be at least 4" of space between then (to compensate for the puller fans) The alternator sits in no problem, its still bolted to the motor

They are identical transmissions, all of the inernal parts are the same....thus making them equal in strength

I'll PM you my personal number

Yep, west peoria to be exact

I'm actually good friends with the owner of that car and he lives about 2 1/2 hours away from me......his name is charlie and I believe he's on this forum under the name rb26z32

Th400.......rwd, much lighter......its doable. I said its cert'd for 8.50's becuse thats the step between 9.99 and faster. I doubt I'll make 8's, or even low 9's this year, but we'll see 11.49-10.0 and you need a 5 point roll bar 9.99-8.50 and you need a 6 point cage 8.50-7.50 and, well thats alot more ♥♥♥♥ To go faster than 135 you need a window net To go faster than 150 you need a chute

I went 11.2@124 last year in this car with the VG motor on pump gas and drag radials. I wanted to step up my game quite a bit and run a much larger turbo setup. The only way to accomplish this was to throw this bad boy in it If you go look into the RB Technical forum you'll find lots of pics of my setup...

Water galley in place, tomei gaskets on TB's cleaned and in place New Front Main seal installed, as well as cam seals. (NOTE - These are identical to the 300ZX cam seals) Cam gears and valve covers on, intake mani on Clutch going on And now this is where the magic starts to happen! The Pan is currently resting on the cross member. We will be modifying that wednesday as well. The transmission is bolted in to place And here we have it..... Also notice I had a custom piece made where the battery used to sit. The final piece will be in stainless and I'll be mounting my AEM EMS on top and hiding a few things behind it My full-race manifold shipped out today so I will have that by the weekend to make sure it fits and/or if it needs revisions. I cant wait!

Guys I got RIGHT to work after getting the car back from the cage builders this weekend. The main goal was to have the motor set in the car by sunday evening, so we could get parts ordered up for the motor mounts and hopefully have it mounted in place by wednesday. We left off here, tearing the motor down More removal Head removed Pouring all the gunk out of it Extra parts/trannies Where the magic happens Everything dissasembled Head going in the parts washer Strainer cleaned and Oil Pan installed Oil restrictor pressed in Headstuds installed Tomei 5 Layer MLS Head cleaned off

Guys I picked the car up from the cage builder's on saturday. I am quite impressed with the work that was done. The car will be certified for 8.50 and slower ET's. The swingouts are fully removable and the T-tops are fully functional as well. Rear Bars tied into main hoop Drivers side kick panel, notice how the kick panels are still in place Window net up Drivers side swingout pin Passenger Area, swingout pin, main hoop, and harness bar Passenger swingout & pin T-top and interior panel clearance Passenger bar swung-out I should be painting it on wednesday, and maybe start working on getting the rest of the interior back in

This is exactly what I would do. We did some measurements and I do not believe that even an extra 1/8" of input shaft going into the pilot bushing will have any ill effects. The input shaft in stock form does not even sit entirely all the way in the pilot bushing to begin with. The bell housing swap could be done in 30 mins with minimal tools (no snap on set required!.) All you need to do is pull the front cap off, remove the two snap-rings, and unbolt the bell housing from the main case and pull it off. Reverse procedure on the install, and you're good to go.

If you've got the coin to throw an all-CF body on that 240, hell you should be giving that clutch to charity!

Sifted through the posts, does anyone know if the Z32 and RB rear/front main seals are the same? I would also assume if they were the same, that also the cam seals would be the same as well **Edit- Found out the RB front main seal is the same as a VG30, and the RB cam seals are the same as the VG30. The rear main is NOT the same**

Taylor, I've got one for sale

Who's car are you paying compliments to?

That would have definately been useful 2 months ago!

Guys Originally I purchased an RB25 Transmission because when I was researching the swap, I was under the impression that ONLY an rb25 bell housing and input shaft would work. So I sourced one for 800+125 shipping. During that time I was questioning whether or not the RB26 bell housing would work, however I couldnt get any one to get me measurements or take pictures, and RB26 trans arent just laying around everywhere. Anyways, fast forward to yesterday. After completion of the RB25/Z32 trans mating, I decided I should still have a look at the RB26 trans, since it was just setting there. Here are the pictures of the RB25 Bell Housing & Front Cover, next to the RB26 Bell housing & Front Cover My new RB25/Z32 setup on the left, RB26 stock trans on the right RB26 RB25 I did not get a picture of the very top of the bell housing to identify how far the input shafts stuck out on either one, but I remember eyeballing them and I cant physically see a difference. Remember from my 'how-to' post that we measured the lenght of the RB25 in put shaft and the Z32 input shaft and the Z32 was ~1/8" longer. To summarize all of this up. IN THEORY - the only thing you need to do in order to bolt a Z32 transmission up to your RB motor is swap the bell housings. The input shaft lenghts should be negligible, and will not effect anything. If anything, the Z32 input shaft is longer, so you may need to take a grinder just to shave some material off, but I dont suspect this being the case. In my defense, since I had already ordrered the tranny and done the research, and I knew that my Z32 trans had some grinding issues, I went ahead and rebuilt it. I could have saved alot of $$ and just pulled the RB26 bell housing off of the RB26 trans and swapped it with the Z32 trans.

I stopped by the cage-builder's shop today to check things out. The cage was supposed to be finished by this weekend however he got sick and only worked about 20 hours last week.....oh well. I am pretty impressed so far, he's doing everything he can to make sure I have good head clearance, and will still be able to get all the body panels back in with minimal modification. I'll even have full functionality with the T-tops

Thats him alright!

I agree, this motor looked aweosme when I got it, and it also goes to show you something that whoever owned this car before the motor came out, obviously spent the $$ taking care of it, otherwise there wouldnt be a $2000+ Clutch setup on it. On top of that the belts all looked brand new and the oil even smelled semi-fresh (at least there was no burned smell) Seems to me like whoever had it did a good job maintaining it.

Haha, thanks, Im thinking its more of a 'patience' pays type thing. I was in a huge hurry to get this motor so I could get the project started and I was bugging jdm-online about their rb26 motors for 2 weeks solid, day after day they kept giving me excuses as to why they couldnt cough up good pictures and compression numbers. I finally said screw it and started looking elsewhere. I got in contact with the royal japanese guys and they picked up the phone every time an answered all my questions and sent pictures (even though they were wrong!!!) when they said they would. They quoted me 3700 shipped and I bargained them down to 3500 I had the tracking number the day I paid for the motor and it was delivered within 5 days (including the weekend) of when I ordered. I would definately recommend them. Talk to Amir and tell him Andy that bought the rb26 sent ya!

I will be using the push style setup, see my 'how-to' write-up on the whole tranny conversion I just completed. Its in this forum and should be a few threads away from this one, Its pretty neat!

Thats the thing that threw me off, I was sent 4 pictures of the motor that is on their website (blue valve covers), and thought thats what was being delivered. Then this guy showed up.......all in all im quite happy though, I think I got the better end of the deal.

I will pass the word... The tidiness runs in the family. Every project I undertake I get out a fresh set of zip-lock baggies, a sharpie, and take lots of pics. All bolts and corresponding parts go in the labeled baggies, and they are set out inthe order they were removed (makes reassembly much easier!) All tools get cleaned put away at the end of the night, the floor gets swept, the countertop dusted, etc. Just makes for a good return to the garage when you know you can find all your tools. A big pet peeve of mine is coming out to the shop after a 2-3 day break and going where the hell are all my tools!!!! Regarding the dyno, the dyno itsself isnt that high, they just use a 4 post lift to get the car to the dyno height, its better the way they do it in case they need to store an extra car there over night, they can actually park one car under the lift.... Here's a picture of my car on the dyno