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Booztd 3

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Everything posted by Booztd 3

  1. *evil laugh ensues* Current parts table growing....
  2. Nissan actually changed the paint on the R33 plenums. The problem was identified that it woudl just get hot and crack off.
  3. Not hardly, the switch is needed to retain the stock mounts/shifter/driveshaft on the Z32. I would have had to fab up a whole new cross member for the tranny and fab the crap out of the shifter area if I wanted to use the rb25 trans 'as-is' So since I had to open both of them up to do that swap, I took advantage of the situation and cobbled all of the good parts from both trannies and now my tranny will be 'like-new' Remember this is going into a 300ZX, not an old school Z like you guys have....
  4. My plans are to build this motor with CP Pistons, Crower Rods, ARP Head & Mainstuds, JUN Oil Pump, ACL bearings, and a Tomei HG. That all should be happening in ~2 months. I want to get the motor fit in the car first, and then get it fired up on the AEM EMS before I go splitting the motor apart.
  5. Now onto some notes: When I first read what needed to be done to the RB25 and Z32 trans it made a lot of sense, having to use a different input shaft to compensate for bell housing length, but the way I understood it was that the RB25 bell housing was longer, thus making the input shaft longer as well. If you read through this how-to, you’l definitely see that the bell housing is actually shorter. So in theory if we just switched the bell housings, the input shaft would be too long on the transmission, but this really isn’t the case. We measured the input shaft length, and theres only 1/8” different between input shafts. It is more than likely this 1/8” would be negligible when installing the transmission, considering the input shaft does not even fully seat on the pilot bushing. Even if you did run into that issue, you should be able to cut off the excess 1/8” from the Z32 input shaft. Here is also a picture of the puller kit we used Some pics of the shop and the cars Panoz GTS on the dyno and STS C5 My bro's mid 10-sec stock block/stock head/stock cam 05 mustang Their Ford GT Blower & AFR Head setup going on an escalade Arial View Peace!
  6. Since I wont be needing alot of extra parts, we opted to cut the countershaft out with a plasma cutter, and avoid a crap-ton of parts removal. Now since the input shaft isnt bound by the counter shaft, it slides right out The mess we made Now we're finally on to the reassembly process. We heated the parts on that usually get pressed on. We just put them in the parts washer for a few minutes and they went on pretty easy with a hammer. We used alot of the insert springs and such from the RB25 trans since they were in alot better shape than my Z32 trans. It basically ended up taking all the good parts from both and combining them. Everything into place, forks are back on Snap-Rings going back on Front Cover sealed up My brother on the right and tony (stallone) on the left. These guys were a huge help and I couldnt have done it withouth them The completed RB25/Z32 Trans
  7. Now this is where things get hairy. You're going to need the bomb-diggity puller set in order to get everything off the right way. We accomplished this witha $2500 Set from Snap-On Gears starting to come off Using the pinch puller for the lower bearing We had to craft this next setup out of threaded rod and one of the pullers. It worked at least! After removing the other gear above with the pullers, the remaining gears should come off with some prying/tapping of a hammer. Now the directions call for pressing the shafts out of the center-section. We did this using a press. Since the shafts are still bound together by the gears, you must press the shafts out one bit at a time, and then switch to the other shaft and press it out a bit. This makes is so the shafts dont bind. This is how we felt at the end of night 1 Moving on to day two, we have an RB25 RWD Trans I'm not going to go through the dissasembly process, because its quite identical to the process of removing the front/rear casings. Here we have the Z32 Input/Output Shaft on the top, and the RB25 Input/Output Shaft on the bottom Here are some comparison pictures of the bell housings My stuff was pretty dirty and my bro's shop just had gotten a new parts washer in. This thing RULES. I give you ......"The Cuda" Parts going in Here's how the bell housing turned out Center Section Here the RB25 trans gearset.
  8. Guys First off, I would like to preface this with a warning. THIS IS NOT FOR THE AVERAGE MECHANIC. Hell I wouldnt even recommend this for the skilled mechanic. I consulted my older brother who owns a speed shop in springfield IL named FC Customs (http://www.fccustoms.com) to help with the work. Over the last two nights we broke down the Z32 Tranny, as well as the RB25 RWD Tranny. We then mated them together following Charlie C's suggestion that the input shaft needed to be swapped to compensate for bell housing lenght. I will also re-preface this write-up by warning you almost every picture contains the 'shocker' LOL. We were feeling goofy during the process, so why not spice up the pics a little bit? Here we have the Z32 Trans You will begin by pulling the outter detent ball out of the trans. On the upper side close to where my bro's index finger is pointed in the picture above. Remove the 17mm bolt on the left hand side and remove the spring and then remove the ball. Keep these in a safe place. Now you'll remove the front cover like so Front Cover removed Now you'll need a few different sets of snap-ring pliars. There is one small snap-ring and washer and a large snap-ring once you get the front cover off Snap Rings Now We'll work on the shifter rod. Begin by pulling the 10mm bolts out and pull the cover off. You'll see this There are two dowel pins you need to remove in order to get the shifter rod out. Now we'll remove the bell housing by removing the casing bolts in the middle of the trans. You'll need a hammer to separate the two pieces. A close-up of the gear-set Our next part is a highly debated topic regarding Z32 and RB trannies. The 4th gear synchros DONT grind, its actually the insert springs. You can see in the next few pics how the teeth have been ground and dulled down Now you'll remove the forks from the gear-set After you've removed the shifter rod and the pieces inside the trans, you can now remove the tail section casing Here is another component that causes the grinding Notice the teeth are worn down
  9. Thanks! I was concerned if it was an R33 because its my understanding that I wouldnt need to have the crank machined and then have to install the crank collar. The R33 motors you can just slap the Jun/Tomei/etc pumps on and let her rip, right?
  10. I did a little more research and i was wrong on the PS pump. That is an R32 pump, but it appears everything else (harness, ECU, plenum) points to an R33....Can anyone else offer a hand on this?
  11. Guys After ordering my motor from http://www.royaljapanesemotors.com last week, I got the call from my older bro that the engine was delivered to his shop yesterday. Being conerned that I was going to get what I was sent pictures of, I asked him what the motor looked like. I was originally sent pictures of this motor.....an R32 RB26DETT So I asked him if it was blue........blue he sais? "I dont see any blue on it, it looks stock to me" So now I get to thinking, great, I dont get the motor they sent me pics of, I probably am not getting the motor they did the compression test on as well. Im guessing I probably got some piece of junk. Before I started getting my panties in a bunch, he started telling me how clean it looked and he couldnt find any broken clips or anything like that. I was able to make it down to the shop a few hours later to inpsect the motor and work on a few other things. Upon spotting the motor, a huge smile came over my face......why you ask? This is what they sent me Those familiar enough with the RB26 will have noticed on the first pic that THIS IS AN R33 MOTOR! The first thing I checked was the ECU - 24U00. Then I checked the Power Steering Pump, and finally a few big indicators is that the intake plenum paint doesnt chip off, and the motor sensors all have grey connector plugs. At this point I was extremely excited because I could not find anyone willing to part with an R33 for less than 1000 bucks more than what they wanted for an R32 motor. I'm not sure if it was a mistake or they just sent me what they had, most likely they didnt know what they were sending me. Either way, Im stoked! Now lets move on to part two of why yesterday rocked so much...... We wanted to get a good jumpstart on the motor and getting it all ready to go in the car, so we started dissasembling things. I already have a buyer for the trans and oil pan, so the first thing to come off was the tranny. We get the tranny off after a little work and BOOM what do I find? That right there is an OS Giken Triple Disc clutch setup. I looked around on the internet and it looks like they're selling for 2200 or so. We pulled all the plates apart and they all seem to be in excellent condition. We put the clutch setup on to my new tranny and the input shaft splines are all the same, so I know i'll be able to use this clutch! All together I paid 3500 Shipped for the motor from royal japanese. They were very easy to work with, they sent out the tracking number the same day, and I got the motor in 5 days from Canada. I could not ask for anything more!
  12. You dont need a key, all you need is a starter and a battery. Ground the battery to the engine and give the starter and signal wire the juice.
  13. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me
  14. I have learned a few other EMS/Piggyback systems so far, I am excited to get learning on this one..... And BTW - they do make it for the RB25DET motor......the part number is identical to the RB26 (30-1621) All RB motors (r32,r33) use the same EMS. The R34 motor is different (I assume the plugs on the harness/ecu are different) Let me know if you're interestd, as I am a dealer
  15. Would you mind detailing me in a PM or an email to andy@booztd3.com about what issues you had? I would like some elaboration......thanks for the help!
  16. No kidding I'll celebrate once the bastard's actually in my hands, lol
  17. Well, I have an update, a good one. I found the EMS, its in Orlando (item was delivered to central IL originally) Now this is where it gets really f*cked up. About two weeks ago I ordered a set of headstuds for the RB26. My vendor goofed and sent me headstuds for a CA18DET. I called them that day and told them what happened, and they said they were issuing a call ticket, and would get the correct studs out asap. I was unaware what a call ticket even was at that point, but what it is, is an exchange process by the shipper. They ship you the correct item, and at the time of delivery, the carrier picks up the incorrect item and ships back to the origin, at the expense of the shipper. What ended up happening on monday was this: UPS guy comes at 11AM, delivers my EMS Fedex guy comes some time later, drops of my correct headstuds, assumes the UPS box sitting there is the package that needs to be returned, so he grabs it, ships it back to the shipper. My vendor called me this afternoon to inform me of this, and I'll have my EMS on monday:) Thanks for those of you who responded Andy
  18. Fortunately the item was insured for the full value, I am going through the process right now, however theres not much I can do. UPS deals with the shipper only during this time....
  19. The reason the AWD trans go for alot cheaper is because they're worthless to all of us RWD guys......you need the RWD trans
  20. Guys An AEM EMS for an RB26 (part number 30-1620) was stolen off my doorstep sometime around monday afternoon. I spoke to the UPS driver today and he physically showed me where he put the package, and obviously I dont have it. Normally this would be an odd request but this was the only AEM in the country right now......now someone has it. Please be on the lookout
  21. So is this dipstick hole an R32 motor only thing, or is it an R34 motor only thing? My R32 motor should be shipping today if not tomorrow
  22. how easy is the ZR pan to adapt to the RB26 engine? I'll have an rb25 pan thats modified to fit the rb26, here tomorrow
  23. You definately did NOT read this right...
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