Booztd 3

4th gear....

Guys I got a chance to hop on the dyno and works some bugs out of the base-map that AEM provides with their software. I am not confident that I'm squeezing every ounce of power out of this setup, however I know its safe and at this point, I'd feel comforatable pulling the motor to swap to the forged goodies. We made 485rwhp @ 14psi however I didnt capture that dyno graph, the one I did get shows 480rwhp. Mods are: R32 RB26 ARP Headstuds Tomei 1.2mm 5 Layer HG Tomei Type-A Poncams Full-Race Twin-Scroll Manifold GT4202-74mm 1.28A/R hotside (2) Tial 44mm W-gates Tial 50mm BOV Ebay 24x12x4 FMIC 3" IC Piping 4" Exhaust Stock Ignition AEM EMS RC 1000cc Injectors Dual walbro 255 Pumps Jgy modified fuel rail (dual -8 feed, single -6 return) Aeromotive 1:1FPR Dyno Chart Videos I am not sure if the Mic was having problems or what but there is a little crackling in some of the vids, so dont interpret the cracking as the car stuttering, its definately the camera! http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RB26_480rwhp_Dyno_Front.wmv http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RB26_480rwhp_Dyno_Rear.wmv http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RB26_480rwhp_Dyno_Side.wmv http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RB26_480rwhp_Dyno_Top.wmv http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RB26_480rwhp_Dyno_Turbo.wmv LaterZ

visit http://www.rbz32.com for all info

You're hearing the dual 44mm wastegates open up.....they sound pissed off for sure!

Guys I finally got the car running good enough to grow some balls and go out and really push the car. I wouldnt exactly call 7psi pushing it, but I wanted to make sure the AF was safe, and nothing stupid's going to happen next week on the dyno. Cant say for sure but at 7psi I'm probably only making 300-350rwhp.....still feels good to go WOT and hear 8k rpms Right-Click Save-As http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/RBZ32_Street_Tuning.wmv LaterZ

Guys I was suspecting that my igniter had a problem when I started developing a random miss on cylinder 4. I would get the miss sporadically and most of the time once the miss started, I could shut the car off, turn it back on and it would be gone. In adddition to that, the 6pin connector on my rb26 igniter was broken off, so the connection was a little 'loose'. I noticed when I played around with that connection my miss would sometimes go away. I saw Carl H's post regarding swapping the J30 igniter so I knew it could be done, however he has mainly text documentation. I went through this process and took good thorough pictures with hopes of assisting others. Through the years of working on Z32's I've acquired junk wiring harness and lots of spare parts. It just so happened that I had a good Z32 igniter (we call it a PTU) sitting around, as well as an old harness. I clipped the pigtails so I got good conditioned harnesses. Here is the assembly we'll be swapping in. Since I wanted to ease installation, I chose to use the old clips, as it would be more simple to transfer the wires 1 by 1 over to the new harness instead of depinning them all on the rb harness and risk mixing them up (i know its not rocket science but im all about logistics!) Start by removing the yellow retainer clip Now that the clip is removed, you can begin de-pinning it. I used a pic tool (as shown below) to release the clips and then pull the wire out the backside It should take literally 1 mintue to remove these safely Now do the same to the other harness Here we have both 6 and 7 pin harness clips and the Z32 igniter Here is the schematic for the Z32 igniter. Here is the stock RB configuration. Notice the 7 pin on the right, 6 pin on the left. The orientation is switched on the Z32 igniter. The 6 pin will be on the right and the 7 pin will be on the left. Here's a good picture of what I just previously referenced I started to work with the right side first, transitioning the wires from the 7-pin connector, to the new 6-pin connector. The first wire I removed was the ground. You can note which wire is ground by looking on the igniter itsself. It will be labeled "E". Notice coil wires 1 and 2 have already been moved from the 7pin to the 6pin connector Pictured below the new 6pin connector is now complete. You should have one wire left over that is black, which is the ground wire. The old connector is on top. Next you will need to extend that black ground wire to reach over to the other side of the igniter. About 6" will do. I soldered and shrink wrapped the connection The first thing you can do now is take that ground wire and stick it in the new 7pin connector. It will go in the exact middle like below Now we will begin depinning the old 6pin connector and transfering wires over to the new 7pin connector. Here is the stock rb configuration In this next picture I have moved coil #1 wire over to the new harness. Do this with the remaining 5 coil wires. They stay in the same order (with the ground being the 4th from the left) Here we have the completed configuration. I am happy to report the car fired right up, but I havent yet tested to see if my miss is gone. The car will need to warm up and I'll need to take it for a spin. Hope this helps some guys out, happy RB'ing!

I specifically asked JGY when I ordered this if the rail would work and they said it would........so im going to have to call them

It seats in there but doesnt seem like it creates a good seal........however JGY told me these were designed for precision injectors, so I dont see whats wrong here

Guys I purchased the JGY Fuel Rail a while back and at that time they stated that it was designed for domestic type (14mm injectors) They said that the fuel rail comes with mounting tabs for the RB26 and RB26 configuration and that they recommended Precision Injectors for the application. Well I went to start configuring everything last night and ran into a few issues and thought I'd ask for help. At first I noticed that the stock injectors are much shorter than the domestic type ones I have.... So after removing the stock fuel rail and injectors I decided to sit this rail down into position with one of the injectors in place. The fuel injector doesnt even come close to seating into the manifold......I'm assuming I'm going to just have to re-drill new holes on the mounting tabs to get teh fuel rail to sit closer? Also, I dont believe I should be using the stock rubber injector grommets that sit in the manifold, because these have the o-rings right? Here's a pic of the positioning, notice the injector sits too far out Now I tried just removing the mounting tabs, and removing the rubber grommet that sits in the intake manifold, just to see how the fuel injector would seat. It does not make a good seat, and doesnt seem like it would seal very well If anyone has any tips and suggestions on how they did it, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks Andy

I may have one N1 Water Pump left to sell......I'll have to double check. They go for $200

Guys I need to get rid of some left over RB26 Nissan OEM Gasket Rebuild Kits. I have 3 left Price: $200 + Shipping

For future reference, thats called a "Girdle"

Because I thought it was a dumb idea to put together my motor with ACL Bearings, Tomei 5 layer HG, Pauter Rods, CP Pistons, ARP Headstuds, and Tomei cams..........on an AEM that I've never messed with I think the smarter approach (and im sure many will agree) is to get the bugs worked out first on the AEM, so my new motor isnt at risk with the tune and its one less thing I need to worry about. If i built the motor up and threw it in the car w/out even knowing how everything ran (wiring, aem, cooling, etc) I'd be playing russian roulette. This way if I grenade a stock motor, I can still rebuild it instead of having wasted parts

Guys I ordered a crank collar on March 12th from Matt @ GTR Shop, and I still havent received it. I have sent probably 4 emails requesting a status update, none have been returned. I plan on starting my build in a little over a week (week following the 11th/12th) and I have to have it finished up ASAP to get break-in miles on it. However this will not be possible if If I dont have a collar Does anyone have one I can purchase, or perhaps pay shipping on it and replace it with the one I receive from GTR Shop? Thanks Andy

GuysThanks for the input, i fixed that biatch tonight. Turns out there was a wire that wasnt makign a solid connection at the harness right under the igniton. The signal wire was seeing 12V however it wasnt pushing enough amperage to the starter. Chalk one up for the basics

Nice find J, thanks for the info I'll be sure and let you knwo what I find out today. I've got an auto zone, O-Reily, and Advance all within 5 mins of my house

Score That would help immensely. The local advance auto parts store guys have become quite friendly to me here lately so they usually just let me go back behind the counter and grab parts on my own, lol. Also, are RB starter failures pretty common? I've seen a decent amount of response to my posting so far

Guys THis is an odd request but I HAVE to take my car somewhere this weekend thats very important, and im 99% sure the starter has finally puked on my car. It started over the weekend being pesky and I just clicked it over about 100 times in the garage with no luck, so if anyone has one and can get me one by friday, please PM me! Even if your car is down for a month or two or whatever, I'd pay to borrow it or replace it as soon as I find one.......basically im asking for any help I can get. Thanks Andy

Definately not, and I'll agree Thats why I started my own rbz32.com forum

I'm going to agree with J on this one. I dont think he's trying to get real specific with claiming this instance of the guy's eagle rods brings out all the dummies that think they know it all, rather he's just making a generalization. If i had a dime for everytime I received engine building advice on the internet, from someone who's never even opened a motor up, I'd have a free car by now. There are just too many 'know-it-alls' out there posting away with no discretion for the validity of their post, and the only justification they have was they read it elsewhere on the internet, or thats what they heard at their cousins, brothers, old-roomates, ex-wives dog trainer's, uncles shop

Guys Got some out of car video last night, it honestly sounds much more like an RB than I thought. http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Booztd3_RBZ32_3.wmv Lata

Is the trans in complete, minus the bell housing?

heheeh, thanks dude, I'm using all Tial equipment.......Twin 44mm wastegates and a 50mm BOV

Thanks I am running a custom 4" Vband downpipe, and a *really* custom 4" to dual 2.5" test pipe section. For My mufflers I have a Greddy SP dual setup that has been on my Z for the last 5 years. I wanted to keep a stealthy look by staying dual. Here is a somewhat decent picture of the exhaust setup

Well after about 10 months of being down, and about 4 months after I started this project......I got to drive my Z tonight. The video is pretty short, and the car doesnt have much of a tune, so i wasnt able to really get on it. I have about 9 mins of video but movie maker kept crapping out on me so i just put this short clip together I'd just like to say thanks to the members on here who have helped out so far, I couldnt have done this myself! Enjoy http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Booztd3_RBZ32_2.wmv