Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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I know for certain we've got door panels that are "iffy" but the price would reflect that.. I'll look around and ask my uncle what we might have. Anything else needed?
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'79 280ZX, blue/black interior, Iron Cross wheels.... I say blue/silver two tone as pictured above. That color scheme fits the model year (with the earlier B pillar design) and the wheels perfectly.. again IMHO.
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I have to say you are very good in ignoring the fact we cal BS on your weight claim...
Really to me your are full of it.... ~1850 ... NO WAY !!!!!
lets forget the fact you simply know jackshit about the s130 (hence the 'shock vs strut ')
...But, really, Frank... He is giving us the answer to the question originally posted... why the lack of love?? Widespread "Bliss."
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(IMHO) With 280ZXs, the interior color comes into play very very very much. I happen to LOVE an S130 with red interior, red suede seats (82-83 style) and white exterior... but I really can't believe I am saying I like anything with a RED vinyl interior!! Wheels come into play as well. What sort of interior do you have, and what plans do you have with it?
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I've been waiting for this for a loooong time......
(erp, that sounds stalker-ish...)
The Axis is re-aligning! This is like putting a Subaru engine into an old Volkswagen
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Wow.. fifteen, maybe even ten years ago, the consensus would have been to stick it out with the SUs. Alot of people would have opted to swap SUs and the standard hybrid electronic dizzy setup into a 280ZX to get rid of "all that EFI garbage" in your situation.
One option that hasn't been mentioned: drop in the L28ET longblock, with the SUs on it, and bring your turbo hardware. Sell the L24 to whomever gets the extra three trannies. You could even do a head swap (bringing along the P90 in the back, of course) if you wanted to keep the cam/compression of the E88 for the purposes of cross country NA SU goodness.
Then again. if you don't know your SUs and you DO know your EFI, it IS a different world than it once was... but it seems like asking for a boatload of risk.
Go to wal mart or harbor ffreight or some other store and buy a 10-15 dollar 12V tire inflator pump, and a tire plug kit. Screw Fix A Flat (unless ALL ELSE FAILS, it isnt a horrible emergency supply, i just hate to actually use it) A couple of small LED or spotlights, possibly with magnetic bases.. the automotive aisle sort of junk at wal mart.. A light like that can be verrrry useful. You could also buy a booster pack with a light, inflator, etc all built in.
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Nice Score!!! How much was it, if you don't mind me asking??
I also have lots of goodies; if you need something, I'm only 70 miles away so we can probably avoid shipping charges.
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A: What year/model/transmission
B: this should be posted in the appropriate model subforum, either S30 or S130, or possibly Drivetrain, not L6 Engine. Not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out the specific role of each subforum.
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I second the B.S. Claim
BUT!!!!! If it is legitimate, then we would all love to see the proof, and the car!
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The reason why the Subaru deal works is, the steering arms are the same length, but they have a great ability to push out the tire. They are strait at center, and the used to be at a 30 degree or so angle.
Still trying to wrap my head around this steering mod... Do you use longer tie rods with this subaru steering knuckle? I still don't understand how you are changing the steering action at all using the same rack, without making the steering effort higher for either:
-each added degree total you can turn the wheel or;
-each incremental increase in steering quickness you achieve.
You need a different, preferably power steering rack, and it either needs to travel further and use stock steering knuckles on the hubs, or it needs to be oomphy enough to push shortened knuckles rather rapidly.
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some 260 blocks I have seen seem to come with dished 83mm pistons, some with flat tops. Naturally, you would want the flat-tops rather than the dished.
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Wow its kind of odd for Cylinder #1 to go out like that..... #4, #5, and #6 look about par for the course, but usually #1 is okay....
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(Paul Newman raced one!),
If I am not mistaken, the 280ZX was the car that led Paul to fall in love with the Z-cars in the first place.
My uncle says EVERYTHING that you are trying to say about S130s..... but he says it about S30s. Outside of the 6 cylinder motor, and the slightly improved electronics system, my uncle GREATLY prefers the 2000 Roadsters to the Z-cars of ANY stripe. So where does this "anti-new-car" attitude get you in the end?
As for an 1850 pound 260Z, show me the fiberglass and the carbon that let you get there.........
.....or I will show you MY 1800 pound 240Z, which reached that point via extensive rusting, cutting, and stripping. (Read: its a rotten piece of scrap.)
Support that claim or I second the motion of the ban-hammer...
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1) Ugly
2) Heavy
3) Shocks in the back
4) Crappy interior
I could go on but I don't think I need to waste any more time on a S130.
1) Has a "closed mouth" appearance, which is different and has a subjective aesthetic value, but aeroduynamically, the 280ZX is hands-down better off.
2) Simply had more options available to either have/order, or strip off. Frank posted the data to prove it.
3) The first thing you do to ANY Z ca is work on the handling... Nissan ALWAYS gave us a car that had enough engine to start with, but needed some ride and brake tweeks to really make the engine look bad.
4) Completely depends on what you want. S30 fans are usually surprised the first time they see an S130 (or Z31) interior in bl;ack; it looks virtually normal.
..and then there is Rule Number Four:
4. There is no Best! -
Got another video.this time my brother put the tank next to the engine which i think is bad.but the car started.
Unsafe story... I have literally ridden on a boat gas tank in lieu of the passenger's seat (and the clogged/nasty fuel lines and tank) of at LEAST one 240Z. My dad's DD for a while was a 70 that he resurrected, and the first few weeks of him driving the car was using the custom fuel supply setup. I was 12 or 13 at the time... Fun times!!
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the original point of the flaps on the bottomside, in front of the wheels, and the low pressure area created, is a great one.
However, something makes me NOT want to duct hot engine bay air over my front brakes. Maybe I am nitpicking, but I would prefer to route the hot air back to the fender panels behind the wheel wells. there is plenty of air flowing underneath the car that did NOT pass through the radiator, that still needs to be properly evacuated, is there not?
In other words, I am asking a question... isn't there more to worry about than just the hot radiator air? Or is the situation more like, I should just ignore the ~100 degrees of difference in the cooling charge for the 1900 degree brakes????
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aw, hell, my high school shop teacher had one of those.....
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if you ask me, the spirit of the car was lost on the interior.
The short version of the answer is, the 1970-72 (ish) 240Z prized function over form and comfort in nearly every way. I know that is what appeals to me the strongest about the car (although I cannot speak for anyone else.)
By the time 79 rolled around, we lazy greedy Americans wanted more cushy comfort from our cars, so you started seeing all sorts of automatic climate controls, and Talking Ladys, and rear wipers (with washer?!?!?) and other sorts of jazzy stuff that is likely to impress the girl from Ridgemont High who works in the diner next door to your Electronics Store (cue the Jackson Brown...)
(Image courtesy of the Internet Movie Car Database) (wow that car is pretty)All kidding aside, it has been a good 15 years since I stopped saying (Thats not a Z, thats a ZX!!" with poison dripping from my voice. (It was the first ride in a turbo car that did it actually.. my dad's 83.) there IS no real "good" reason to be biased for one over the other. Like the rules here say, there is no "best."
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I'm building a 'stroker' L6 using the LD block and crank. This LD block is not siamesed. There is partial ribbing and gaps (~1/8") between the cylinders. Stock bore is 84.5mm. I only went to 85mm to keep strength and allow for additional rebuilds. To achieve the kinds of displacement mentioned here will require liners and probably reground cranks. I don't recall the dimensions this far down the road but believe I mentioned them in earlier posts about these engine builds. My build is using a P90A (mech) head and the stock V07 crank. I'm also using L20B rods and custom JE pistons. There is quite a bit of machining and mods involved in using the diesel block with the petrol head. Probably the most important issue is head bolts. There are NO bolts out there that just work. I researched many options even visiting a variety of diesel shops looking for these elusive bolts. The BMW bolts are NO exception. ARP will make you a set of 14 studs for only $1100. Working with a good friend and owner of an industrial fastener business we scoured his sources and found a solution. I can provide a set of 12.9 socket head bolts 12mm x 1.75 pitch in 150mm and 170mm lengths. All will need to be shortened by approximately 5mm to prevent bottoming out in the blind block holes. You'll only need ARP head bolt washers to complete the set. I've yet to complete my SC'd L6 but have all the confidence that these will perform more than adequately.
Check into head bolts for a Subaru EA82 engine; its an 1800cc from the 1980's GL line and the Loyale of the early 90s.
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That would be quite low for compound turbocharging. I watched single stage turbos on the test stand at Garrett running surge drills and thermal cycling 0psi-45psi-choke, stall, open flow -psi 45psi- choke, stall, open flow.... over an over and over... till it broke.
Compounds are not required for 45 or 50 psi, a single wheel can accomplish a 3 and in some cases a 4:1 Comrpession Ratio.
Now, running a 3:1 and a 2:1...now you're talking. It's more on the likes of 70 to 100 psi they are running on two stages.
I was trying to avoid sticking my foot in my mouth in case the impressions I had gotten were wrong. My point was that this is something above and beyond parallel twin turbos, or non-linear, "one little up to one big" twin turbos. Its a serial connection between the two.
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Low Pressure turbo = big turbo
high pressure turbo = small turbo
Atmosphere
> L.P compressor inlet
> L.P compressor outlet
> H.P. compressor inlet
> H.P compressor outlet
> Intercooler
> Intake
> Combustion chamber
> Exhaust manifold
> H.P Turbine/wastegate inlet
> H.P. Turbine/wastegate outlet
> L.P. Turbine/wastegate inlet
> L.P. Turbine/wastegate outlet
> Exhaust system
Atmosphere
Great, simple description of something that *I* hadn't seen anthing on until recently, so I will post some pictures of this kind of setup..
(This is the exhaust side of the engine; the intake is over on the back side in both of these pics.)
Compound turbocharging isn't using a little turbo at low boost and a big turbo at high boost, it is using one turbo to pressurize up to X psi, then shoots that into the other (H.P.^) turbo, which is the first one fed exhaust. The HP turbo takes that X PSI and charges it up to Y PSI, which is usually something ridiculous like 40 or 50 PSI. Ludicrous speed, GO!!!
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Just hold out a bit longer... s130's are likely to start flocking to the junkyards as soon as Obama signs this cash for clunkers bill into law
Start?? I can hardly find them anymore......
Oh, TR, I snapped some pics of that snail and its downpipe, turns out we aren't 100% certain what nissan it came off of (might be Z31T) but I gotta upload them to my photobucket tonight. Probly too much shaft play to use, plus the exhaust housing crack I mentioned (its in the downpipe flange, radiating from the hole for the wastegate to cover.) but I dunno if you can use it for parts or not.
The evaluation of the condition of the turbo is provided to you by my brother, Cobra_tim here on hybridZ. I honestly haven't got a drop of experience to tell me what is how bad in terms of shaft play, but when you try to wiggle it back and forth, or push it forwards and backwards, theres about 1/8" of wobble. maybe half that, but enough that I don't doubt my brother's assessment. I'll get you the pics; PM me your email address and I can just email the full res shots.
Edit
After searching about, the downpipe that we have with the turbo is definietly a Z31 downpipe, so the turbo probly came from a Z31, but its a stock Z31 T3. Like I said, I really don't know much specifically about the turbos, specifically, so I have no idea if you can use anything from it or not.
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See, to ME the Ultimate Datsun Pickup would be a 4x4 83.5-86 720 King Cab with a turbocharged LD28 in it.... and that is what I have ALWAYS wanted this engine for. I know that turbodiesels in automobiles are becoming more popular as the weeks, months, and years go by, but to me it has always been a truck motor that got derailed into a Maxima somehow.
If I could get me one of them there pick em up trucks, then I might just turn mysself into a mud-lovin redneck......
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I'll give you a bill of sale for $25
(Image courtesy of the 
Full on resto mod of a 240Z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Why not???? If he is into new-porsche-sticker territory, I imagine he is willing to pay handsome premiums for a stellar policy. Most insurance agents LOVE getting policies like this because it is a cash cow, in a car that will likely be treated as a member of the Royal Family (read: high premiums, low odds of having to pay out.. It would just be a mother#$%#$ if you ever had to..)