Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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If you go to www.mininova.org you can get all the episodes in full! I have found that you get the full 60min's, whereas the ones shown on local Aust TV is cut down to 45mins so they can throw in 15min's worth of ad's (usually a Mustang blowing itself up on a Dyno because it used the wrong oil
)!!!Yeah exactly, straight car shows can be a bit tedious and dull - It's like the Ford Focus review - started by a letter sent in by a viewer who asked if they ever did real car tests anymore - the show is much better when they move away from straight car reviews and "facts" - like the caravan episode, that was very funny stuff
!!!Nice to know my point made it; it was one of those things that makes you wonder if you are going to be misunderstood
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We do if we get the BBC America channel.. I have Dish Network satellite service, I am not sure if the other cable or satellite carriers have it or what. The show is so weak* sometimes I roll my eyes constantly, but its in such a great and entertaining way that its no wonder it is one of the most popular television programs in the world. Wiki claims it has up to 350 million viewers world wide.. insane!!!
*(easy to see through or poke holes in or just generally have good reason not to agree with their conclusions/opinions; I freakin love the show and don't want them to change, its just easy to see SOME smoke and mirrors there, or simply disagree with them. Fun though.)
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elieveI see your "I believe" and match it with an "I believe" that stands by my earlier quote of 82 or 83. I found the brackets on a car about four or five years ago and grabbed em, and I would swear it was an 83, if not an 82. I can't make logical sense out of it, and I mean exactly what I said; I believe, you believe. I wish one of us was certain, or that someone would chime in with a certain date....... BUT, I am not holding my breath because I asked and asked about it on Zcar.com back in the day and whatever model years they were on............... one thing I know for certain. Nobody on the internet knows for certain
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I think you left hand drivers have it a little easier, your throttle linkage is all on one side (Doesn't pass across the back of the firewall) same with brake booster.
(I can't believe that you haven't thought of this, but I am saying it anyhow just to make sure)
Easy fix: throttle cable attached to top of pedal, travel across beneath the dashboard, pass through the firewall on the intake side. Obviously this costs money and that is a disadvantage.. but thats any Z (or any hobby for that matter. Two favorite gags of boaters around the world: B.O.A.T.-- Break Out Another Thousand; and the following definition, "A boat is a hole in the water into which massive amounts of money are thrown never to be seen again.")
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It's really not hard. Very similar to wiring a radio or sound system, minus the negative side of things.
GROAN
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/threadjack/
my buddy's 92 RS camaro (tbi 302 w/5 spd) blew a transmission one day and the only driver/vehicle combination that was available to rescue him was my dad in his NA 86 300ZX with a receiver hitch which I magically found in a junkyard. Incidentally, I have a tendency to find Z-car tow hitches in junkyards with my shins and kneecaps.... If anyone wants the tow hitch for the Z31 let me know, we still have it and its still wreaking havoc on unguarded shinbones at our shop...
To keep this a little more on-topic, does anyone know about any difference between VG30E heads from maxima to Z-car? Obviously radically different manifolds were used since the VG maximas went to FF layout, but I couldn't even tell you if there were casting families like the L-series or what. I am just curious; every time I see a VG SOHC head I am fascinated with it and I think of the old California Coffin and just can't get it out of *my* head that somewhere in THAT head lies lots of vroom.....
/threadjack off/
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my vote is to throw the V8 into the parts car and make a rat rod out of it... Get some sheetmetal and cheap gauges for an interior, and have a car to do cheap and dirty and take to drags, do burnouts etc. Then the clean 240 can be kept nice and pretty and be the registered street car.
...but then again, I am not your typical H-Z'er
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what is that? your link is blank. thanks
aww crap, I just "copied" a link outta bookmarks that I set there a while ago for handiness. Go back and look now, it is edited.
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Straight pipes on n/a's are just stupid loud and don't have a particularly nice tone to top it off.
Kids.
(Armand: not a shot at you by any means, bud!)
Nothing like a single megaphone on a U20 Roadster motor man... quad mikunis... a delicate blend of the japanese and the british, sheer foud cylinder nirvana... I haven't heard an L6 with a trumpet-horn exhaust before.
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If the car still has a problem, I am going to say "thermotime switch" and give you this
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If I am not mistaken......
.....A, they have been out of stock for several months if not LONGER (if they are still out of stock)
......B you will likely see far more increase in performance, from the increase in bore, than you will see from the rod ratio change. Remember, 280 is still more hp than 240.
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Oh wow.....
I can't understand why all the stuff on the 73 car was replaced if it only had 6K mmiles on it though...
The low mileage stuff is awesome to me, but the low number stuff is interesting and neat, but I could honestly care less. I like the 70 cars for what they were; the different vent style, the look of the defrost lines going the wrong way, the general antique feel. The actual number just limits the desire to modify it.
I would love to get a nice 70 240 to do a mid-high comp, dual SU 2.8 with a sleeper electronic ignition and super super clean engine bay, original chrome with euro tails, and modern stereo with a nice 4 speaker system... Polished Libras or slot mags on her, white with a hint of pearl and a giant Datsun logo on the roof.... Standard ducted front airdam and a BRE rear spoiler, moderate window tint on the sides.
I haven't thought about this much.
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Lengine.exe is nothing compared to this handy guy:
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
However!!! These calculators are estimation tools, and no internal part should be put together without being specifically measured. The calculators are tools to help you throw together junkyard engine pieces as thought projects. The next step is getting the hard parts, measuring, assembling, checking clearances, etc.
Spend 50-75 bucks on a few books and read up on the subject. The investment of time will yield enormous dividends. Check the stickies in the L-series subforum for the specific titles; there are three or four (two or three engine specific, one or two more datsun/Z performance in general) books with similar enough titles that I run them all together in my mind. The publishers are even kind enough to make these four awesome tomes look very very similar, even though they are wholly independent works.
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BRE "air dam"
It isn't a spoiler, its a cooling device. I swear.
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six prong yellowy connector, probably hazard switch, definitely original wiring. Other yellowy conector, probably defogger switch, definitely original. Whitish three prong squared off plug, uncertain.. i can't recall one looking like that down there but it doesn't exactly look OUT of place either.
The antenna switch WAS right there, so thats a reasonable suspicion, I would investigate that possibility and let us know what you find. Do you have any of the lights and switches that belong down in that area?? I ask because the hazard switch should have been obvious if you did... (the answer to this obviously has implications on how much weight I want to put on the first half of my post now)
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All you have to do is as I described above; Get a bosch four prong style relay with a plug, get an inline fuse holder and a 30 amp fuse, install a line from the hot terminal of the battery to the "input" terminal of the relay, run the "output" of the relay to the starter solenoid spade terminal, and run the original solenoid wire to the "signal" terminal of the relay. Add a ground wire for the relay, and turn your key and drive.
If it doesn't work like that, then your problem lies in your starter, your battery, or your battery cables. But, if the screwdriver works, and you DO at least get a click when you hit the key, then chances are about 99.99999% this will work.
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If I did the math right, you're only running .024" piston to head clearance... is that right?Thats 2 thou too much
beat me to it
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Okay, didn't read all of that, haven't got the time at the moment... but:
Heater core: (presuming the problem is gunked up passages, not potential leakage)
Go flush it back and forth with a garden hose now, before its time to hook it up. If you can manage a way to get some hose onto it and then cap one end, and fill the thing up with some super duty radiator flush (the stuff that comes in a big quart bottle, permatex product, white bottle, the serious serious flush) and let it sit, and then flush back and forth with a garden hose, you should be able to de-gunk it fairly well.
Sanding: Its impossible to "go too fine for this stage" at any stage; the smoother each coat is when you are finished with it and ready to spray the next coat on (whether a primer, paint, pearl or clear) the smoother that next coat goes on. I am learning this firsthand with the little bit of rattlecan work I have done on my CRX... and believe it or not, 400-600 grit is nowhere near as fine as you might think it is.
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For the tails, you might consider working with two pairs of tailights from a ~96 cadillac deville...
turbned over on their side. I've had my eyes peeled and actually saw that these might work tonight. -
Update!
We talked to the guy who sold us the 240z/280z! He has deposited $100 to my account, half of what we paid for the car and we keep the car for parts. All in All, I think we will make out. There are lots of parts that are good.
Hey, thats awesome!!! An apology with a dollar sign, regardless of the value, is a huge thing; this guy could have let it fester and its great to know that not only do you guys have two cars that should make one really nice one, but that the initial bad blood worked out positively on all fronts in the end.
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Like, OMG, someone totally stole the royal purple outta my leet honda drift machine..
Reward!!!!!!
Fifty Thousand Internet Dollars for the safe return of My Royal Purple stolen out of my Leet Honda Drift Machine!!!1!!
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Fuel pressure/flow rate of pump? Regardless what those figures are, I would be SORELY tempted to try running the car with a different pump, and also running the car DISabling the FPR and then greatly DECREASING the fuel pressure.. Just for purposes of data collection.
Like I said, I keep seeing bubbles in the float bowl, and I really am picturing bubbles from a stream (like the classic surge tank issue on locating your high pressure pickup point somewhere where the inflow from the low pressure pump will not give you a negative effect.)
These kinds of problems are simultaneously the biggest stupidest PITA of working on cars, but also the most stimulating and DEFINITELY the most satisfying once you FINALLY figure the @%^$ thing out!
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Are you talking about the radiator cap?
yes I was, I forgot to check "quote message in reply" on the new quick reply feature.
Strike that, I checked the box that time and it STILL failed to quote your post in my quick reply. New software; bugs; c'est la vie.
as for your car... *blink*twitch*lift*jaw*off*ground*
me likey. can't wait to listen to that vid with the volume cranked higher
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Porterhausen states he wants a revver. That's the natural behaviour of the L Series! Don't discount the short stroke L24 or L20 cranks for your L28 block. That'll make it rev even more!!
Small port heads will change the character of your engine as will displacement, cylinder head type/mods, camshaft type, induction choice, exhaust system mods and compression ratio. Don't isolate small port heads as an achilles heel just yet, Daeron! I still have a lot of work to do!
..but, it is work that intimidates the likes of me, is a task for many, and is probably something best to avoid for someone looking to get their feet wet. My point was, its hard to go wrong, especially given some patience and time reading both here, and in a handful of immensely helpful books (honsowetz et al) In the end, the point was that its hard NOT to build an L-gata that doesn't fit his requirements.
)!!!
beat me to it
turbned over on their side. I've had my eyes peeled and actually saw that these might work tonight.
78z runs for 20 mins, then sputters then dies.
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Did you re check the link I posted?? I fixed it to point where it needed to go. I don't keep info like that handy off the top of my head, but I am sure it is easy to find in that book.