Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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ugh.. see my sig.
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I can't help you regarding the turbo swap (except to vaguely say that I think there is some minor conversion work beyond just bolting the front sump stuff onto a rear sump motor) but I have a request... It would be super-cool if you could eyeball the brackets that have the rear brake calipers hanging from them, and see if those brackets are welded on or if they are bolted on. The welds can be pretty tricky to find, until you know where to look for them. I am pretty sure your car should be welded, but it is sort of a "point of argument" which ones were and were not. The data would be happy to get posted
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Okay, I just dug some stuff up and I think what we are experiencing here is, failure to communicate. I JUST read this stuff so my understanding is not that of an expert, but I'm gonna try to spell it out anyhow so bear that in mind.
Compound turbocharging and sequential turbocharging are (apparently) not the same thing.
In a sequential system, the goal is to use a small turbo and a big turbo to get the benefits of both, and you use wastegate controls to determine where the exhaust gases run to as well as what turbo is actually breathing into the manifold. For instance, we say that the small turbo tries to spool at 1300 RPM and builds boost to a max of like 8 psi. By 32-3500 RPM the smaller turbo gets bypassed and the big one starts coming on; once the big one is over 8 PSI the little one goes away entirely and your final boost is around 20 psi (or whatever, just for example) The goal is simply to have the lack of lag of the small turbo, with the flow and boost PSI potential of the large turbo. howlermonkey is talking about something like that; running ALL the exhaust gases through the small snail in this system obviously defeats the point.
In a COMPOUND turbocharging system, you snort up filtered air with one turbo, pressurize it threefold, and blast it into the inlet of the other turbo which then pressurizes that threefold, and then gets blown into the intake of the engine. The exhaust side goes, headpipe, inlet flange of turbo 1, out of turbo 1 into turbo 2, thence out into the atmosphere. Both turbos are usually the same size, and you result with 9x pressure increase (9 BAR!!!!) This is a diesel only type of setup because (obviously) these kinds of pressures will simply prevent spark from ever occurring, not to mention the pressure iginition (oy!) We are discussing a concept that sees up to 250 PSI in tractor pull engines!!!!!
Cummins compound system (clicky for a thread to read)
NizPro Marine quad turbo Sequential system (also clicky for website)
and as always, faithful wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin-turbo#Sequential_twin-turbo
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SIX HOURS and I am the first person who could find their eyeballs (after being popped out of their respective sockets) to comment.. WOW that looks wild!!!
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I'm going to guess you were running some type of V8 upwards of 6.0L versus this 3.0L engine with stock cams. Plus, the 20+ psi this system is putting out is probably a very efficient (cooler, for starters) volume of air.
Given what I know of TonyD, chances are about 85-95% that the engine in question was either an L6, a VW, or a corvair motor... and guessing from the date, it was almost certainly a sub 3 liter L6.
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Autocrossing in south florida is done by a group called Equipe Rapide, and I know there is a group my brothers have run with on the west coast in the fort myers area called Gulf Coast Autocrossers or something like that.
My first car was an automatic geo storm hatch, I got it when I graduated high school, had it for a year, and got my 75 280 2 seat, 5 speed stocker. I coped with the fog, the 2x4 block holding the driver window up (TWO regulators i installed busted on me) the wipers, and actually I found that only the HEAVIEST of rain came in the windows while I was rolling.. and I live in south Florida, so I am used to monsoons. Honestly I find myself to be extremely above average drivers in rainy driving skill, and also enjoyment.. I'm a sicko, but I am native born to a swamp so developing a taste for rainy driving is sort of a survival technique.
My point is, it made me more of a driver. The bit that gollum pointed out around the middle of the thread, about only one passenger and predictive driving.. that piece deserved a +10000 as well.
I had my car insured, by myself, for around 130-150 a month with tickets and bad stuff on my driving record, when I was 20-21 years old, 2-3 years into getting my license. Actually, I failed to keep insurance on the thing consistently, so my rates were even inflated by that to boot. Insurance shouldn't be too much, if memory serves these cars were somehow considered "compact/hatchback coupes" rather than sports cars so we dodge a bullet there.
And finally, I would say that the greatest slice of humble pie I have ever had stuffed in my face has been in driving past nasty accidents, and seeing videos of the sort they play in driver's ed that show DUI accidents and brains on asphalt. When you watch that and see the brains on asphalt, and then suddenly have that recognition moment of what it is.. it sorta makes you count every ounce of steel you're rolling around in.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Nissan_engines
Nissan engine coding terminology, R denotes supercharged, where E is electronic fuel injection, S is carburetion, T is single turbo, TT is twin turbo etc.
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Real racers downplay how much horsepower their car makes. Internet racers exaggerate how much horsepower their car makes.:mrgreen: "around five hundred"
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i believe obx warranties these units in racing use also. However, i can't imagine trying to get in touch with them. I already emailed them once and got no reply. The unit is working very well in my car so far.
It is very difficult to telephone anyone in china' date=' Mr. President. The country's so full of wings and wongs, every time you wing you get the wong number.[/quote']
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thanks for the info guys 1 fast z looks like you deal with these motors on a daily basis i really enjoy gettin the gospel from people who have tried and tested thanks again !!!!!!!:icon14:
Please take this with the right attitude; You would be more likely to hear the gospel from those who know it best if you space out your thoughts a bit more than you had in your original post. I was just browsing and just now read the entire thread, and your original post would have been greatly improved simply by hitting the enter key in a few spots to give your thoughts a break. (More effort can CERTAINLY be taken to put a little more "voice" into your statements, but simply knocking that enter key a few times between sentences is enough
)Ive got a question for anyone thats been here before .Here is what i have TURBO L6 im replacing rings ,bearings ,gaskets.My cylinder walls all mic evenly between each other and still retain factory crosshatching i went ahead and honed the cylinders properly to deglaze them.i ordered standard rings for an turbo L motor
my new rings ring gap on top ring three inches down in cylinder is .018 give or take a half a thousands this is outside of the ring manufactures specs of .004 per 1 inch of diameter and also outside of the how to rebuild your nissan L series specs of .012 to .017. My old factory chrome plated top ring in its designated cylinder "3 down measures .013.I have seen on another post two different people getting the .018 thousands ring gap with new rings .my rings are imc.
One thing i noticed the part number for aftermarket rings is the same whether or not it is turbo or non turbo.Im thinking the larger ring gap maybe is ok due to higher temps being turbo.
If you have been here before PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS thanks phil.......
Hope this helps; You CERTAINLY aren't the first person to get this kind of tip
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YOu need to Have .025" piston to head clearence. Order your pistons extra thick in the domes. Then when you get them, you need to find out where the exact mirror image is of EACH combustion chamber, usually by putting prussion blue on the head, and bumping the head, with no head gasket with the pistons installed in the bore, and on rods and on the crank. Then mark the outline of the CC with a scribe. Then go to your mill and dish the correct amount, but do NOT go outside of that scribe line. Then once you have them all dished, go back on the inside and lighten them up, since you ordered them extra thick, and make it about .200' thick everywhere in the dome. Hope that made sense.
Post of the month.. Brian, I just might quote this post directly rather than rehash the ideas myself in the future. Would you mind? Whatever the specific numbers and tolerances any individual decides to build to, this is "How you choose custom piston specs when you start mucking about with rod lengths and closed chamber heads."
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now they will say ..."you were able to mount it and it fit" so its NOT our problem
i wouldve sent it back.............send me the right fitting 6 into1 assmunch!
Have A nice day!
its wayyy off you are gonna have gasket problems .......... i gaurunteeeee it!
just wait for a few Heat cycles and you too will be a believer.............
hey whats that sound( tik tik tik tik ) its an exhaust leak babay
and now its out of its warrenty cuz you waited 90 days
look,.... been there went thru that bullshit deal with it now and be dick about it
good luck compadre
English please?
It seems that about 95% of people have excellent experiences and nothing but that dealing with MSA on new products that they have sold you. My experiences with them have been nothing but majorly positive. Enough people HAVE had bad times that we can't give them halos just yet, but if you really believe that you want to change your header out (the points regarding its lifespan and the studs in your head are all very valid) I SERIOUSLY doubt that MSA is going to give you a hard time over it.
Where is all the animosity towards Motorsport Auto coming from?
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It's enough to make me want to drop my turbo and build a 2.4L screamer.
That first exhaust note that I can remember hitting my ear, back when I was two years old... THATS what had this effect on me.
Glad to see you post pictures of your "REAL" head there man!!
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I gotta say that the wording strikes me as out of place, as well... but in the time since you put the thing together I have come to realize that it fits you, Brian, probably better than most of us would imagine. What I am saying is that before, it looked awkward an displeasing to my eye, but now it looks a *little* awkward and TOTALLY appropriate and fitting. The "tax write-off" comment sealed the deal; that made all of these cosmetic issues "function over form"
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Still have that dip in the power band though.
nice update!! Rhetorical question.. What the @#*(%*@!(!~!!!! happens to nearly every L6 at 3800 RPM to cause that torque dip!???
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nice looking northstar tho can you imagine a 2x2 with the back floor pan and rear seats removed and a custom rear tube chassis and engine box built there to hold that thing? Fit a pantera style hatch with the rear deck past the glass replaced with see through mesh, and the pipes exiting the tailplate between the lights one of the 4-1 ends exiting each side of the rear registration plate.
Why bother with a 2+2?? Just take a two seater and re work the entire front steering fresh to give yourself a one-seater car. Move the driver's seat forwards and to the center and there is suddenly PLENTY of room behind you for a motor. You really have to look at a 2 seater thats been stripped ALL the way out to sheetmetal plus steering column (steering column optional) but there is a LONG way forwards you can move if you commit to sitting in front of the motor. Obviously it takes alot of OTHER work (tubeframe etc etc) but it isn't that unreasonable.
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I think in reality a race engine has a sound, which has been attributed to the sound of a "Ferrari", rightly so in some ways.
I have heard a handful of L-6s that also had this sound where most did NOT quite; I understand what you are saying and would LOVE to have a looong conversation with you about what makes the sound of an engine, because I have been asking that question since I was about five years old and have NEVER had it adequately answered... thanks!
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have you checked the valve lash yet? if this is not a P90a head, then it has adjustable valves, and you could well be holding a valve cracked on those two cylinders. SOME P90A heads are hydraulic adjusters, some are solid, so you have to check visually which you have if it is a P90A... but i wouldn't condemn the engine without checking the valve clearances first, and probably a leakdown test to see where the air is escaping from.
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Just say "screw the transmission" and have the driveshaft coming right out the clutch and just have direct drive like a super modified oval track car, lol.
NOT entirely a bad idea; its just crazy enough to work. If we could make, what, 4-500 pounds of torque with this motor and get it into a vehicle package weighing ~2100 pounds, it might even work! Remember, its a bigger motor but there would be no tranny (and thats unsprung rotating mass removed, too)
May as well go hand-throttle... Oh wait, now I am building a subaru powered airplane or boat again.... I really need to get better control over my daydreaming.
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How LONG is the EG? Compared to, oh, I dunno, say, a VQ35?
Theres a decent chance with some "simple" firewall modification "rolleyesg that the engine could be set up in RWD configuration just behind the strut towers.... *IF* you can get a RWD gearbox onto the silly thing, and have 245 NA factory horsepower coming from behind the front wheels. It all boils down to the gearbox.
The front diff carrier is not all that easy to remove from the Subaru gearbox, but it isn't that hard to just "cap off" as long as you have the right center carrier. The fundamental trouble is, Subaru only ever mated the EG33 to an automatic transmission that was not up to the task.. most SVXs out there are out there with bad transmissions, our they specifically say "good transmission" in some way. I know the impreza manual gearboxes are not simple to mount into the SVXs, but I can't recall how easy it is to put an EJ five speed onto the EG engine outside of the vehicle.
In my eyes I would want to get the hard parts to see if I could make a real RWD nissan gearbox go onto it, almost before putting any effort into an internet search on EJ transmissions onto EG33. You ARE talking about a 3.3 liter box 6 that has 240 or more in it BEFORE putting boost on it... A 300ZX transmission might be in order. The Subaru gearboxes just likely will not hold up to the task in RWD configuration.
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That plenum looks dead sexy....
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I was wondering about that. Not only are the longest Honda rods shorter than most stock SBC rods, but that would just understoke it...no big deal right?
What had me wondering were the journal and pin diameters. I just couldn't see it. But since it's all a pretty custom thing, it makes more sense.
(not to sound like a dick, but) Rod length has no impact on stroke whatsoever.
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It's curious that bearing and the scoring...
That was a photo of a bearing from Josh; Greg hasn't posted us any images of his bearings yet.
The bearing didn't look like the above. His piston looks like detonation or too lean. His bearings look like they wore from junk in the oil, possibly particles coming off during the event. My bearings were through to the copper and got better as you go out.I am wondering what kind of motor oil was being used in the engine.. Chris (ITS owner brother #2. the eldest of the five of us) said he is pretty sure that your motor was extremely low-hours, so any sort of chemical/metallurgical distress (the whole ZDDP thing that usually comes up when someones camshaft gets chewed up) from motor oil probably would not have had time to cause an issue.. but its another datum that needs to be considered.
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Xnke: nice. Sounds plausible to me.
I wonder if there is any good (read: cheap DIY) way of detecting such a thing? I have DIY detonation detectors (earmuffs with hose attached to copper pipe bolted to the block), I wonder if it'd be possible to hear this. I'm thinking unlikely over the valves slamming closed all the time.
Gira, are you willing to share any more details about the oscilliscope + accelerometer setup you're going to use to try and identify this occurring?
Dave
I think the closest thing we could get to it would be a long bar with a series of tuning forks attached to it at calibrated frequencies.
In all honesty, with a tuning fork of the right frequency range and an electric guitar pickup, you ought to be able to make something.. but any low tech approach towards analysis of this problem is likely going to revolve around tuning forks in some manner.
:mrgreen:
:icon14:
can you imagine a 2x2 with the back floor pan and rear seats removed and a custom rear tube chassis and engine box built there to hold that thing? Fit a pantera style hatch with the rear deck past the glass replaced with see through mesh, and the pipes exiting the tailplate between the lights one of the 4-1 ends exiting each side of the rear registration plate. 
240z8's '71 240z Chevy V8 Project
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
First off, NICE find. I would examine the spot above the rear wuarter panel window where these cars like to rust through fairly well, too; I couldn't get a good look in your pics, but some of the first "Look at this car" shots showed a worrisome dark spot in the typical rust spot there..
Regarding the starter, I would try hooking it up to the Suburban with good, HEAVY jumper cables. Turn the key to on, turn onthe headlights, and hit the horn. If both of those work simultaneously and the horn doesnt sound like a dying cow, then you are getting enough amperage through the cables from the 'Burban to bump the starter well.
Now that you have ensured good enough juice, leave the key on (go ahead and turn off the lights and stop honking) and try to bridge the gap between the main positive cable connection on the starter motor, and the little terminal tab for the solenoid wire. Screwdriver on nut holding battery cable, then touch it to solenoid terminal. That will bypass the ignition switch as mentioned above, and jam your starter motor on. If it still doesn't work, then its time to get inquisitive. Get a 1/2 inch breaker bar, the right socket, and fit it onto the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn the motor by hand. Try pulling the spark plugs if it is a little difficult.if its REAL difficult, just pull the valve cover right off and look at what the head looks like.
Good luck with this one, 70s are sweet, sweet little cars.