Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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85mm? what is the stock bore?
I just bought 90.3mm forged pistons.
He was referring to the LD28 block, which had a stock bore smaller than the other L6s (except maybe L24 and L20A? FAR smaller than an L28 in any case. See 1fastZ's comment above regarding sonic testing of an LD28 block. It is a totally different beast from any other L series block from what I understand.)
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i think we've got a stocker with a cracked exhaust housing.. its basically junk that hasnt been thrown out yet, i could look into it. What was trashed on yours?
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I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
The power of Boost Compels You!!!
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Can you whistle like a parrot after that 'errach'? I always liked the whistle better than the loud noise...LOL
I figured it was a straight conversion error, just forgot it was inches, not metric.
JPL missed mars under similar circumstances, you know!
all taken in good fun. I'm a tad sensitive (tongue in cheek) because I know durn well that I can never remember which unit corresponds to the 22, and how many decimal places are involved. If I could remember one, the other would be no problem.
Here is the thread I have bookmarked, and I will quote the post from brian in particular:
YOu need to Have .025" piston to head clearence. Order your pistons extra thick in the domes. Then when you get them, you need to find out where the exact mirror image is of EACH combustion chamber, usually by putting prussion blue on the head, and bumping the head, with no head gasket with the pistons installed in the bore, and on rods and on the crank. Then mark the outline of the CC with a scribe. Then go to your mill and dish the correct amount, but do NOT go outside of that scribe line. Then once you have them all dished, go back on the inside and lighten them up, since you ordered them extra thick, and make it about .200' thick everywhere in the dome. Hope that made sense. -
Methinks Daeron needs to not go metric, and change back to the english system, and then his assertation of what 1FZ was saying would be correct.
Most people run 0.040", 1FZ is running his head to crown clearance closer to 0.020"
Which is 1mm, and .5mm
.5mm is closer to 0.020", 0.20mm is closer to 0.008"
It's the scourge of the metric parrot! ERRRRACH! Wrong conversion factor! ERRRRRACH!
it is, but blame me for laziness in not having my links handy, rather than blaming me for squawking!
In my defense, I had sent ktm an extensive PM before what I posted publicly. That PM was predicated by a disclaimer and some pointers to help find the original posts I was referencing... and then my post was something of a continuation of that. Sloppy, I guess. I wish we could get rid of inches and pounds altogether, though. I am only attached to them because I am forced to use them so often.
So yah, Sue me!!!
*ducks out of the room*
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Its definitely great stuff. It works really well with the lexan RC car bodies. I also doubt it will harm metal. The only downside is $25 for 32 oz, and you need 2 or 3 coats otherwise paint will seep through it. This is probably why its only used on small things like RC cars, planes, etc. Still for something like a wheel, it could be reasonable.
My thoughts exactly!!
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thanx Daeron for that design program, that will come in really handy as i figure out the final details. Seems you've been on near the closest contributor here:mrgreen:
You are more than welcome, but I am just a data-gatherer. The guy who wrote the little program is a member here somewhere (I think) and just about everything I have said, has been said better by someone before me, so I can't take a whole metric ton of credit here TBH
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Yeah I sold my ecu cover so now I can push in the ecu plugs every once in awhile just in case..
"Imaginative Funding Ideas"
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Well, according to my understanding the quench effect in a stock L28ET with stock N42 L28E flattop pistons would be almost nil. According to 1_fast_z the clearance between piston crown and quench pad should be in the .21-.25 mm range, and I have heard others say as far as 0.5mm (that was a SBC discussion IIRC) BUT you need it to be close. The stock L28ET but flattop combo has a deck height .050mm below the firing deck, plus your HG compressed thickness puts you pretty far away from the piston, so you have that 8.5:1 comp ratio to deal with without the "benefits of quench" (and I am hoping you understand why I am putting that phrase in quotes.)
NOW, say if you could get some Z20 +1mm overbore flattops, (they have a shorter pin height,) and use L24 rods instead of L28, you wind up popping the piston out of the deck about .2mm or so and you come closer to your goal.. Or, custom ordered pistons to whatever pin/deck height you should want.
But if you are just strictly talking about for a quick rebuild to get your car going again that won't make the wife tighten her grip around your already straining throat, then breaking the new ground of flattop land probably isn't worth it. It is so incredibly annoying that there were never PROPER quenching piston/rod combinations available for a reasonable compression turbo L6!!!
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Wow that masking goop looks awesome!!! I've always done something similar using grease or some sort of ointment (whatever was handy, vaseline is the standard) when painting fishing lures. a spot of neosporin or something out of a tube makes a perfect masking for an "eyeball" before spraypainting. I can't imagine it would be problematic, but then again, one would think it would be much more widespread if you *could* use it on a car, so who knows... not I!
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Wow man, I just wrote you this hyper thick worded, difficult to read but well summarizing reply to the flat top vs dished question in PM. Now i come and read the update in this thread, and I want to say just throw some stockers in there and keep going until you have it right. THAT is what I think you ought to do right now. The rest of what I said: just file that away for when you are ready to build your final motor.
But seriously, you pulled the motor apart almost instantaneously, the bearings should all be fine (but worth a check just so you know how they are) and as long as the bores aren't too out of round just hone it and be done with it. How much does a set of rings and a headgasket cost?
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Wow, man, just read through this thread. Seems (at THIS point) like things worked out almost GREAT... good to see! I originally looked at the photos of the damage and was thinking sarcastically "Oh, no, that's useless, you should send it to me and let me cut it up and use bits of it to replace the rusty parts on my car...." and hopefully scam you into letting ME fix it
All I will say is this: suspension and brake upgrades to an S30, pay off more dividends in the "fun" category than engine upgrades on a Z32. Some springs, some real brakes, and some real shocks will make the car come ALIVE because suddenly you can A: carry 50 mph insanely deep into the corner and B: shed that insanely fast and late, amazing everyone else who has already slown down and thought you were about to eat the wall, in addition to what you are already used to in you Z-car, C: speed off remarkably quick for only 120 horsepower. No replacement for displacement? try weight loss!!
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Oh, hey, crap, I forgot, this might come in handy... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
Don't take it for holy writ, no engine internal components should ever be "assumed" to measure ANYTHING. In other words, this is a great calculator for off-the-cuff idea working; make sure all measurements and clearances are as advertised when actually gathering parts!!
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I hate to sound like a Geezer (I'm only 28...) but.....
Man!!!!! Whatever happened to gold accents on the silver/metallic colored rims of your red sports car????
Allright, I will stop whining now, sorry.
One other point I had to bring up.. My biggest problem with those wheels has always been, four lugs, five "spokes." Awkward, and no paint can change that. If that statement really hits home to you, you might want to think twice about putting much effort into painting them. Now that I think of it, any color scheme you pick out, you have to be able to mask off well. Some schemes will be easier than others. Just saying. -
Sounds like you've got one of the Infamous Datsun Magic Wires. Bastards. It'll go away if you can find the right spot to wiggle a bunch of wires. Grrr..... ZXs seem a *tad* more prone to having magic wires than S30s, but thats just because they tend to have more wires.. a no-options 280ZX probly has no more likelihood than a similarly equipped S30. Good luck with that; they are hard to find because no testing will turn them up unless you are in failure mode, and that only happens once in a while. Usually, its when you are on your way to school, or something similar, so no opportunity to get the meter out and do a full harness check as per the EFI bible....
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I dont want to be taken the wrong way - my point was that almost all HP data is qualitative - that is not a bad thing... sorry i probably jumped too much into the science aspect...
This kind of data is VERY useful when comparing a known to an unknown (ie "stock" to "modified")... my point was that even dyno figures aren't reliable on the day but they do give you an idea in terms of percentage over how much power you've lost/gained per modification.
I'm not bashing this type of aquisition, i spend at least 10 hours a week preparing microscopy slides for a research group which has absolutely not quantitative component at all- that does not mean it is not scientific... engineers love set numbers because they deal with known parameters, when dealing wiht the unknown, often qaulitative data is the best way to go (afterall... if i have a numerical figure by itself and no scale to compare against its pretty darn useless).
+1, I was tempted to say something about your uses of qualitative and quantitative, but I couldn't find a way to do it that wasn't sounding dickish
Basically, the words simply refer to two types of data: one (qualitative, quality) being experiential, what you see/hear/feel, sense data... Anything a human is naturally ideal to analyze; and the other (quantitative, quantity) is strictly numerical (like Der Kolonel said) Anything Metered or gauged, or ticked off by a machine and then printed out at the end, ripped off, and read by the analyzer.
That LAST bit there, where the machine prints out its output, and the number is involved.. thats what made the dyno question so sticky. Honestly, until Klink said it, I would have said a dyno test was a quantitative measurement myself... but once I read what he said I got the feeling I used to get when the teached explained why an answer I SWORE was right, was in fact wrong. Oh, yeah.... that makes more sense. Oops.
Regarding jmortensen's comments, and what tonyd had to say about the low end torque availability..
My honda is set up almost exactly like what is being discussed, and I must insist that the thing is a wild little beast to drive. The transmission and diff give it gearing like a fox body GT mustang, and really, the torque curve is almost identical!! A little lower on the chart, but then the weight of the car is so much less that in the end the vehicle speed difference is almost nil. I would LOVE to find someone with a stock 50 HO mustang local to me to run side by side with a bit just to make the comparison.
For reiteration, I have an HF CRX which came with a tiny ported, 8V roller rocker head and manifold with runners and ports about the size of a quarter or smaller. (The runners are actually oval shaped; the quarter is an estimate of cross sectional area all told. Theyre smaller than that, but longer, really.) The longblock thats actually in the thing, though, is a 16V sohc solid rocker motor, with much more HP, a much higher redline, and less torque. (about 60hp/98 tq 5500 fuel cut, 5K redline for the 8V, 98 horse/90 tq 6500 redline with 7200 fuel cut for the 16v.) I have the stock EFI hardware and everything, so the tune is still for the HF motor, and the manifold is as well, so i have tiny intake runners dumping inot a large, easy-breathing motor. I obviously need to tune the thing in a bit to make it ideal, but the curve of the machine is still fairly apparent.
Unfortunately, I have only my own experiences driving it and shifting gear to gear, over and over, for about 100 miles a night to really give me data on the car, so all I can say is potentially spurious.... but the car ceertainly has a great deal of lacking despite this grunt I enjoy so much. It is very very different from my brother's CRX, which has a high high revviing, ~115 horse VTEC motor in it and has dropped about 200 pounds of weight compared to mine. His is both stupid faster, and even better MPG than mine.
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okay. There *should* be procedures in the EFI bible for checking fuel supply volume and pressure. If not, then check the FSM for the car.
Another thing to keep in mind when doing the electrical checks: Test the component, and then go back and test the component at the relevant pins of the ECU plug. In other words, use the multimeter under the hood, then plug the thermotime switch back in an go unplug the ECU and run the same tests on the switch through the entire vehicle wire harness. This tests the actual reading that the ECU gets, which confirms that your wiring is not the culprit. Testing the component itself is about 98% of the job, but ALOT of problems that drive us shadetree guys nuts fall through that 2% gap.
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try painting the inner surfaces (basicallly those five "divots") gold and see how you like them.
I LOVE how veritech is just like "Oh, well, just like, paint some badass mural on there, no big deal...look at the canvas you have been given!!" We normal people can't just snap our fingers and summon the Samurai
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Alfa Romeo 2600 Spider:
Four wheel discs, 2.6L all aluminum DOHC I6, triple side drafts, and a plenum that looks like one on a Skyline:
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Is the thermotime switch working right?
Is the cold start enrichment circuit turning off like it should, or is it staying on? It sounds like the cold start enrich is styaing on and you should read your Bible to figure out how to test for that.
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I highly doubt it.
Have you looked through the EFI Bible yet? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step
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Yes, they will both produce more torque than the stock engine (not that it would be that difficult to do so), but longer strokes tend to lend themselves more to low end torque, with overbores lending themselves more towards higher hp (and thus, more torque, but higher in the rpm band).
It's a gross simplification, but that tends to be the reality of engine design.
+1.
Unless you want to do some work on the crankshaft to extend the stroke just a little bit more than the diesel already is, I would be happy with 3.1 liters rather reach for an overbore to get the extra seventy CCs.
Thread title sure caught my eye; hope this build gets finished one of these days, can't wait to see it come together! Good luck and welcome to hybridZ
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Hey......watch it buddy, your hitting a nerve! I have a sx project that I have shared with Hybridz.
drifts14, I recommend you close this post and take it to this subforum..... http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=128 ..the heat will go away.
I apologize, I could have offered a link to the Nissan 4 cyl subforum.. but the lines are fairly clear. Whatever happens it certainly does not belong in the 1970-1978MY S30 Z subforum.
And, to be brutally honest, anyone who presumes identity between a 240SX and a 240Z has always struck a nerve with me. The point of my long list of words there was not to browbeat but to make abundantly clear that this wasn't the place he was looking for.
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its the misspelling... Just picture the name badge on a Caravan Sport.
I don't think it is a mis spelling at all.
I think that the second D in Dodge, and the letters in CARAVAN were probably broken off to a point where it looks like GRIVN
Something like C R / V N
Turbo Diesel Questions
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Everyone, get ready.. this thread is about to take off.....
Looks nice. Have you checked out the Aero subforum here at HybridZ? Lots to learn there