Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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I was just going off what that site I'd quoted had said. Though modle years and actual years do vary. if your dad had a '70 with Vin 10,xxx then I'd be more likely to believe you. but read that site, it's interresting if nothing else.
I've browsed the site before (many many times, zhome is one of the oldest dat-spots on the 'net)
but I went ahead and hunted down the data you were referring to, just because I wasn't 100% clear on it myself.
from http://www2.zhome.com:81/History/1970or1971.html
Some Interesting Facts and Figures:It would appear from our records so far, and supported by the research of others, that approximately 10,000 Series I 240Z's were imported and sold as 1970 Model Year cars. The remainder of the 19,000+ units were sold/titled as 1971 Model Year cars.
Z Car HLS30 11618 is the latest VIN that we have found which was sold and titled as a 1970 Model Year car (built date 10/70 and Sold/Delivered 12/70)
Z Car HLS30 05504 (build date 06/70 and Sold/Delivered 08/70) is the earliest car found so far that was sold/titled as a 1971 Model Year Car.
You can see that there is an overlap in the build dates and VIN's of the first two "Model Years", however for the most part, cars built on or after 09/70, with VIN numbers above HLS30 010031, were sold as 1971 Model Year cars.
FWIW. No data here to contradict that quoted statement!
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My brother's CRX has been switched over to one wiper, and it sits p at rest like the Japanese S30 in the above video. The functionality is poor; First off, you are looking through the corner of the "pie slice" (which isn't so bad, the vision isn't as tucked into a corner as it might sound.) The really bad part is, all of your straight ahead window of view is contained within maybe 1/4 of the motion of the wiper. So, say on low speed it takes a full second to go from full down through the cycle to full down. You get .375 seconds of mud in your face, .25 seconds of clarity, then .75 mud, .25 clear. with dual wipers, the driver's window is wiped for an instant in the middle of each cycle, so its more like, .25 clear, .25 mud, .25 clear, .25 mud. That might not SOUND so bad, but when you are driving in pouring rain, cursing any windshield wiper that isn't powered by a five horse briggs and stratton (our S30s don't always have the strongest wiper motors, or even the strongest wiring and electrical system to support fancy nice upgrades.) Trust me when I say that the timing issue can be alot more frustrating than it seems at first.
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concerning the lettering on the cover, I noticed the same when I am sanding the letters. I have not polished them out yet, but from the sanding the aluminum appears to be an inconsistent densitny when I get to the lower layers. It must be part of the casting process.
(I have lots of ideas, and I learned a long time ago that a million bad ideas that get shot down are ten times better than one good idea that gets shut up)
Idea: grind the entire section deep just a *tiny* bit (what one might call a c^&t hair) too deep with a verrrrrry gradual slope...
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just finished mine 2 nights ago
Hope this doesn't offend, but all this needs is something covering that big JDM on the intercooler:)
It is just *perfect* for a 280ZXT, with the round metal P/S fluid reservoir and all.. a 280ZX turbo *should* in my mind, have a somewhat cluttered engine bay.. at least until it has left stock fuel management far behind. I say "somewhat cluttered" relative to some of the ultra-clean tuck jobs pictured in this thread; you have gotten rid of just enough.
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A small shot will get that turbo spooling!
*eRP!*
Yesh, its *eRP!* willL!!
EDIT: For the thinker out there, what REALLY makes this funny isn't the simple drunken humour, its the fact that the joke sets one to giggling......... giggle, laugh, small shot.. nitrous.. ah-HAH, now you see... THAT is comedy.
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it's hard to believe that new hydraulic lifters can't be found? how does anyone rebuild a head or engine with used lifters? there haas to be a way?
half a dozen different heads in the US market alone for the L6 motor, ONE iteration of one of those heads uses hydraulic lifters. I do not know if any other motor happened to use the same HLAs as the P90A did, but common knowledge is they are NLA. By that I mean only that I have heard NLA and nothing else; if you find "new" ones they are new old stock.
Convert to mechanical, it's not that hard.+1
The "conversion" is super simple, and H-Z member bigphil did a great youtube video with his kids on how to convert from hydro to solid. IMHO half of the sound of the L6 is the solid valvetrain noise
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awesome write up, good pictures for comparison, I hope that anybody whose pictures you used anonymously doesn't mind.
Really, having read these things many many times, I have to say plain and simple: the pictures tell the story. At least to those of us who are coming from Amateurville.
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How can bad hydraulics cause a vibration issue.......I DON'T THINK SO.
by not fully disengaging the clutch disc and never actually allowing the clutch to let go when you try to shift.
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Yah, keep it up!! I have a pile of EFI manifolds laying around, Would the piece you need work if pulled from a stock EFI TB? All of these TBs are non turbo (I am fairly certain, anyhow) so that is fairly important. If a turbo TB is needed dig up the casting numbers of which intakes were on the turbo cars for me and I will check.
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Tclutch line,
ANY DOUBT on the soft rubber lines, just replace them.
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Is that motor pictured immediately above mounted in the standard spot, or is it set back some??
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#5200 would be made in/around April or May of 1970. From what I've seen, they started to title them as '71 cars around the 9000-10000 range, probably later. I recall seeing a '70 car for sale that was #106xx.
And +1 on the damage on #230. If all it has is a little front end damage, it should definitely be fixed, and not scrapped.
My dad had a '70 that was 10,xxx, I wanna say 10,3 or 10,6 but thats little more than a guess.
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the best part about that paint, it cost 94 cents, thats what i was using to paint my modded xbox controllers justin
Phar, He has a full QP on that other car that can be cut out alot the edges, laid over the other one, mark, cut the other one off, tac weld it in then make sure its even and weld it in, justin and i both can weld, idk if his dad can but probably
No, not the SUPER cheap blue can ColorPlace stuff; that I wouldn't trust for anything but temporary marking. That paint is made for surveyors and construction workers etc (and graffiti artists) not for metal protection.
I am talking about ColorPlace Metal Enamel, it comes in a white can and says "warranteed to stop rust for two years" and it costs $3 a can.
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Nice!! Any pictures or concept sketches of this manifold design? I like the idea, sounds almost like taking a four barrel manifold and melting it to rotate the carb flange and make it point towards the fenderwell...
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That would be cool....
My little Suby GL wagon is till kicking. I'm stumped over the coolant issue, but it seems fine! Heater blows slightly warm air, not hot, car temp never gets hot. For now, I just drive it on occasion when I need a dose of slow character.
Refresh me on the "coolant issue;" I got to a point where I was regularly recommending to people that they run a good potent block flush, and then after draining it pull each heater core hose and blast a garden hose through the heater core both ways. Remember, this is AFTER it gets flushed with chemicals, but before you refill with water and run, so it helps get alot of schmutz out of the heater core; mine was anemic before I did that (not frequently used in SoFla) and worked great afterwards.
what, pray tell, does "ostrage" mean?
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Some advice..
I've been working on a 91 CRX and I have lots of metal pieces that need to be cleaned up and made black again. I was in Wal-Mart and got a can of ColorPlace Satin Black rustoleum knockoff paint. It worked GREAT, covered well, sprayed evenly and cleanly, and lasted a surprising long time. (I tend to think a can of spray paint that lasts a while means that a high percentage of the paint goes on surface rather than overspray)
I was painting the front frame crossmember yesterday and ran out; went by WalMart today to get another can, and they didn;t have it in Satin!! I got Rustoleum brand paint and it SUCKS. WalMart Cheap Brand FTMFW!!!
Of course, for something like an exterior panel rustoleum/rattlecan is a temporary solution; I was using it for frame members, battery hold downs, tow hooks, bolt heads, etc. Engine bay hardware.
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If you are going to modify the car and have turbocharging in mind, a custom front clip will allow you to build with lots of big air pipes in mind. The stock front wall is not incredibly easy to negotiate. If you have a good reason to rip it out and build fresh, then you can set up mounting points for say, a radiator from a Fox body (read: super common cheap performance radiator) and make it easier to duct in all airflow entering the front mouth opening of the car to the radiator so none leaks past (this is a common cause of over-temp situations in S30 Zs; the big grille lets in so much air that the rad can't let it flow through very easily, and the air finds other pathways so the air pressure BEHIND the radiator is not that much lower than the air pressure in front; therefore, very little flow through the radiator)
This car is your car; fix it however you want. If you have the tools, supplies, and ingenuity to rip it out and do it better, then do so.
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Nice, keep us posted! Have you decided what kind of charger and manifold you want to run with it yet?
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The longblock is a JDM "D15B" with no fourth digit, which I have gathered indicates basically a d15b2, but its an HF with stock intake, fuel rail and computer. The end result is yes, a torquey beast. I went into it at length in the long winded project thread, but its got a motor trying to breathe through a relatively restrictive intake, so the velocity achieved is impressive. The tradeoff is, no room for high RPM airflow, but the HF EFI system cuts the fuel at 5500 RPM anyhow, so its no loss. With a 2.9x:1 final diff and two overdrive gears, the original engine was built to be all in at two grand.
My brother has a "mini-me" swapped '88 HF that I have been delivering in for the last three months. Its great; 35 mpg, 1830 pounds as is with no driver (gutted interior, recaro seat and roll bar) and in the end I could almost say it hangs with 350Zs and C4 corvettes off the line... It certainly makes them take me seriously (the guy in the 'vette was PISSED; mullet-man, heh)
Looking at my options... we just *happen* to have an intercooler of modest dimension with 2 or 2 1/4 inch pipes... and apparently the stock HF exhaust manifold is stupid easy to bolt a T25 flange turbo onto... and this ECU can be chipped and tuned from what I understand??? so while I COULD simply upgrade to an SI intake and ECU..... I think if I do ANYTHING it would be a chip, a flange adapter and turbo, piping and maybe if needed, injectors. Stick with the stock tiny inlet manifold and maybe hog it out a tad along the last 25-40mm of the track.... I don't know. I have had the car for two months now and things are finally falling close enough together for me to be getting psyched and start having ideas about the future. the price of a snail, flange, tubing, and a chip is a very very very cheap turbo upgrade, and if I can pull 100-125 (+?) combined hp/tq that easily... its a no brainer. *whistles*and*makes*BOV*sounds* Lookit me I'm a FANBOY!!!!
If I were to go crazy with a swap, it would be fivespeed legacy EJ22, turbo to come. Top mount the intercooler, top mount the RADIATOR if needs be (angle it so that the top tank is above the back cylinder and the lower tank is against the firewall, same with IC) and go AWD. Even NA the EJ22 was about 140 horse and 130 torque. Braap: I would be willing to go EA82 with it and turbo one of them just for ease, but we both know that little antique is best left as is. How is yours, BTW?
The hood I bought was already missing the front H logo. The only two IDs on it are the H in the hatch glass (can't get rid of that one, maybe a sticker over it?) and HONDA on the rear driver side back trim glass. That will go as soon as I take my time with some gentle solvent and a razor.
Query: Valve cover is all funk nastified. Obviously it needs an intense trip to the Spa. (I am good at cleaning and reconning aluminum and metal parts like this; I like it) I am pretty sure I want to keep it black and sand off the letters to make it look essentially like stock in the end, but I am NOT set on going black. Any ideas are welcome, but red is out of the question. The other question is one of texture. I really don't think I wanna go gloss or satin finish (satin has been my preferred black finish thus far in the restore) but I don't really like the Krylon krinkle stuff that comes out looking like an old school kickball.. I was thinking maybe something like a trunk lining type flecking texture to just give it an even "stucco" type finish of a super fine grain, a bit more like stock than the krylon stuff...
To be honest, I have seen three or four Z valve covers done with the Krylon stuff and it seems like it always gets one real flaw or two in every coat. A simple flecking wouldn't be so bad, and I can do a light base coat a filler base coat, both in a lighter color, and then after that cures for a day or two I can paint it with my preferred black and clear finish.... What to do?? Opinions, thoughts, and ideas please, thank you.
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So, since I finally started a project thread (and couldn't bear to do it on a Honda forum) I need to start a thread here for feedback and discussion
At the beginning of November, the automatic transmission on my beloved old Subaru GL-10 threw out second gear. "We LIKE lugging through first only to lug through third!" the pistons said. Their connecting rods readily agreed, and so since it was obvious that my boxer had finally gone senile... I took the old girl out behind the shed and fed her a lunch of lead.
My brother graciously offered to let me drive HIS 88 CRX for work purposes until I got my own ride; Times are Tough for an undereducated, over-knowledged Pizza guy.
So fast forward to the week before Christmas, and my dad wakes me up after about four hours sleep, at ten AM on a Saturday morning. (I close Friday nights; I am at WORK until 2 AM so no guff for being up till 6.) Blah blah, CRX, stick shift, $500, posted twenty minutes ago. I call the guy, find out it needs a windshield and a hatch and a radiator... I am thinking "feh. Coffeeeeee..."
An hour later my brother woke up and came over; his reaction was "Lets go look at the car NOW. Do you have money? bring it with you." So we went.
The rest of the tale can be found here, but the short version is as follows:
I put a new radiator in it, bought a pair of headlight assemblies from some guy online, got a hood and a hatch from the junkyard and painted the inner panels with pep-boys rattlecan. I am working on straightening out the front clip damage (NOTHING significant, just a bunch of mounting points for radiator etc.) and painting the battery tray area. An online Honda parts store is supposed to be shipping me a bumper bar and a few miscellaneous items, and after that I meet with a friend with HVLP and a spray booth, get the paint matched, and shoot the exterior of the hood, hatch, and fender.
So, let me know what you think! This is a DD/Pizzamobile; my brothers CRX is quick and fun, this car is torquey and will be a blast but isn't going to surprise any 350Zs or C4 corvettes. (My brothers' DOES. 1.5 liter, NA) I may go for a bit more pep later on (the intake and computer in the car are incredibly restrictive, but they impart high velocity to the intake charge and thats where alot of torque comes from) but for now I am just doing a stock restoration.
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Okay, it is high time I had some sort of Project thread for this car. I just can't bring myself to really get into any of the Honda forums; way too much volume, not enough informed people per capita. So here, to the "other vehicles" no-response subforum it goes
I bought this car a couple days before Christmas.
God I love that picture.. Yes, thats my 75 280Z in the background
It is a 1991 CRX HF. 5 speed, 390K miles on the odo, in REALLY nice shape, except the hood was smashed, and the windshield, and the hatch glass, and the radiator. Details follow on a machine that, believe it or not, drives more like a Mustang or a Camaro than a Civic. The reason is a dumb-luck previous owner engine longblock swap; this engine has "under 100K on it."
Car as I bought it:
Allright.. So originally, the CRX HF came with an 8 valve, roller-rocker head on a standard D15B bottom end. The D-series is the late 80s/90s civc motor, in the US none came with more than one cam but some other market motors were DOHC, some VTEC and non, but its basically your standard civic motor with a bajillion heads that make it different, and maybe two or three strokes, and lots of piston/rod combinations. ALL the other motors were at least 12 valve, i think the majority were 16 valve SOHC but the HF motor was 8.
It came with something like 65 horsepower, and 105lb-ft of torque, and the gearing was super steep; this car wasn't "the cheap one," it was the ultra economy car. quotes range from 45 to 53 mpg. The car weighs 1967 stock brand new (and the 90-91 was the "fat one;" in 88 the car was essentially identical but weighed 130 pounds less!)
So, like I said before just before Christmas this car came up on craigslist and my brother and I went to look at it; smashed windshield and hatch glass, smashed hood, bent front bumper, JY fender, no radiator, no headlights.. $500. My brother and I immediately noticed that the struts had little colored indicators on the tops, and adjusters... hellloooo.. Konis, Tim, did you see that, yah, shhh..
He laid down on the ground and peeked underneath, and sees lowering springs (H&R, a good brand) and camber adjustment kits all around, the same adjustable shocks in the back... OOooOOooOO
So I bought the car. Got home to look it all up and find that the pieces on the car would cost about 1200-1400 bucks new,
*subtle distinction: I bought this car from "the kid" and he bought it from the "PO"*
Now, the kid had never had the car on the road. PO said they backed into it with a truck (dunno if he bought that story or if he was trying to pawn it off on me, this car was in an accident. Minor, but no truck backed into it, it was an accident.) PO also said that the stock engine (that 8 valve roller-rocker 60 horse power plant) had blown and was replaced with a japanese junkyard motor. The engine code doesn't follow USDM nomenclature (where they are all D15Bx, where x is anything from 1 to 9; the HF was d15b6, the DX was d15b2, etc) It just says D15B, so its basically the standard DX type engine (D15B2) is what all my research comes up with. So, the standard power plant that makes about 85 horses with the DPFI on it, and about 105 with the Si MPFI.
The HF fuel system is a dinky, straw sized MPFI system; my throttle body is probably sub-45mm diameter (really I ought to measure that tomorrow; I have all the airbox apart, it would be easy and I want to know) So I have an intake manifold with narrow runners and a narrow opening feeding a motor that breathes much more than what "should" be there. On top of that, the double-D shaped ports of my intake manifold are much smaller both in height and in width than the ports on the head, so theres a very very VERY high velocity through the intake manifold and then an anti-reversionary step keeping all that inertia within the port forcing airflow.
**This post started as a PM that got WAY too long to actually send. This part was sort of directed at the person I was originally talking to, but I let it stand as is. If you can pretend I am talking to you, then great; if you don't naturally see the points I mention, ask**
Now, the tradeoff is naturally, inability to breathe at high RPMs. Well, Honda thought of that. The stock redline is 5500 RPM!! not because of rotational speed constraints (a honda motor that cant hit 6K? are you daft?) but because the motor wouldn't make power there.
So at 5500 my fuel cuts anyhow. The car actually has an upshift light tthat comes on whenever I have stopped accelerating and failed to shift, or when I am not accelerating hard enough to justify the RPMs, etc.. I haven't fully analyzed what makes it come on but so far it just seems to come on when its time to shift
APPARENTLY I can put a chip in my ECU and run Hondata, a tuning program that makes the computer as good as a megasquirt according to my brother... Some larger injectors, and maybe some head work to open the ports up a *tad* right at the manifold flange, but leave the port volume the same right at the valve (in other words, set up another velocity "ramp" between manifold flange and valve face) and then maybe some hybridized inlet manidfold where I take like, an Si plenum and runners and graft them onto the last 1/4 of the HF runners (okay the intake manifold is crazy but its all vague notions of a "goal" that I may or may not work towards anyhow) would probably spell the "ideal" iteration of this motor...
I am sure you see the ideas I am getting at, because they are all analogs of the L20/LD/TonyD/Twin Plate TB threads that have been going on here in the past year or so... This car kinda showed up at a time when it made all of those loose strings into a rope that I just tugged on and found was strong in my mind.
**End of that sort of personalized part** Lazy copy edit FTW
The gear ratio for the trans and the diff:
HF 3.25 1.65 1.03 .82 .69 3.15®
HF (49 states) 2.95(!)
Yes, a honda with a sub 3:1 diff ratio and TWO overdrive gears in the tranny!
photobucket:
http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/CRX/
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The trailer hitch was just absolutely priceless!! The car is fairly rust free with a couple VERY small cancer spots, and some rusty bolts and threads.
The "Good" side:
afar:
Underhood rattlecan:
Power by:
Old Front Glass:
New Front Glass:
Front Section:
Now, today I painted a battery tray, cleaned the rust under the battery tray in the engine bay (minimal and superficial) and primered and rattlecanned that section of the engine bay; cleaned and detailed the airbox and its bolts (the bolt heads on this car are somehow rusty like they've lived in a swamp buggy their whole lives; the rest of the car is fine, rust free, and the threads aren't that bad, just the heads?!?) and dropped the front frame crossmember, wirebrushed and primered and painted IT. The rest of the front clip (radiator cross bar etc) was painted red a couple days ago, and by Thursday most of it should be going back together. I still need to get a pogo stick and finish pulling some bends out of the driver side radiator upright to get it all into the right position though.
This car was COVERED with a thin coating of a moldy, algae-like residue that settles into cars that sit around in the swampy areas down here for too long.. I cleaned the engine bay three times and now I have it all torn apart again for paint and plastic detail work
Thus far:
Car......500
Hood/Hatch.....150 (generous amount added for JY prices plus paint and supplies that overlap onto alot of other stuff)
Windshield.......230
Bumper bar, misc bolts and screw retainers from Honda......120
Headlights.......50
Radiator........60
misc. Junkyard items (lic plate holders, light sockets, relay, brackets, etc)....50? Lets say 100 for good measure.
So just over $1200, and I have a buddy who will help me spray the exterior panels on the hood, hatch, and fender, so maybe another $100 in paint and clear to be done with it all. This car is going to be one SWEET little gas sipper...
More updates to come!
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Righteous Indignation!!!! Epithet!! EPITHET INVOLVING SOMEONES MOTHER!
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Im not sure which first page you are talking about,
I am talking about the first page that wholly failed to display for me last night before I rebooted and then magically appeared just now after I went back to confirm that you only posted four pages. I was wrong; you posted the whole thing, but Firefox on my machine has been playing stupid games with the cache, and not always loading every last image on a page, and I haven't figured out how to get my machine running properly. I think I need to do a fresh install of windows etc.
NOW.. off to read that first page I didn't get to see last night.
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Hey after looking at it, this one if from Motor Trend, not hot rod, and when I grabbed it from all my other articles I accidentally left the last page at home, but here is this one, MIGHT be the same one you were referring to. Motor Trend also compared the new 370z to the 2010 mustang... the Z is better on almost all levels again. Hehehe I can scan that article to if anyone wants to see.
I am pretty sure I have seen the 240Z/28 Hot Rod article that
was mentioned, and I think it was a 350 into a 240Z conversion article, not a comparison of the two. (At least, I know I saw a 70s Hot Rod Magazine with an article of a similar title. A buddy of mine had about 1500+ 70's Hot Rodding mags and fished about four or five out for me because they were about Z cars.)
However, I rather enjoyed the article you posted, more than I did the V8 conversions! Do you also have the first page (with the rest of the "Opener" shot of the 240Z in it?) and if so could you post that with the last page when you do? Thanks!
my slow, but steady build thread, 80' zx
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
dude just last week someone siphoned all the royal purple out of my elite JDM turbo drift0rrrrrrrr... Grand Larceny of Petroleum Product FTL!