Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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You might want to consider using an intake manifold with a runner diameter slightly larger than your intake valve to help keep overall velocity on the increase as the air/fuel approaches the head? Then again, I may be thinking more in an EFI realm, but I wanted to subscribe here, too, so I thought I would comment and risk foot-in-mouth.
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What sort of head/block/displacement combo are you running for your engine again? I can't recall.. What about spark? What are you doing for that with your megasquirt?
Honestly, the stock L28E had 170 flywheel horsepower, and that was with a restrictive intake manifold and an archaic fuel system. Don't overlook the "real" modifications already made to your car; internal work and a hottter cam would certainly help, but you have begun at the end.
Remember, your Horns are Magical, so they just might manage to make 450 horsepower as a bolt-on to your otherwise stock motor....
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gary: they show up just fine for me; one thing I have found that helps with situations like that is to hold shift, then hit the "refresh" button on my browser.
It is also good to go clear out all your cookies and browsing history once in a while to help keep odd problems like that from cropping up.
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Palm Beach as a matter of fact. The car isnt really anything special, needs paint and quite a few things to be finished in my mind. It a fully stripped track car though.
word, I'm living up in palm beach gardens right now, by blue heron and military, and I deliver pizza for Papa John's out in Royal Palm. One of these days I MUST see it; "uncompleted" is the LAST thing I would consider to be a problem. "driving" is "finished" in my "book"
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ooo.. you may be on to something.
Where in South Florida are you? I would LOVE to see that 240SX!!
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for a full body tank why not use some 3/4 inch plywood, 2x4's, 4x4s, lots of silicone sealant, paint and maybe some undercoat just to seal everything up?
Edit: hell just use fiberglass to seal up the interior of it. probably only cost maybe 200$ in supplies.
For the record, I took a stab at what size open topped tank you could make in the ground by cutting up a 55 gallon drum.
I was contemplating the idea of getting into cast-netting finger mullet and reselling them to a bait shop; go out, net bait, take them home to a holding tank, sell the store X dozen Y times per week...
But, if you cut the ends off of a drum, then cut the drum into four "quarter pipe" sections, and assemble those in a square, then lay some plywood and fiberglass down in the corners and on the bottom, and set it all in the dirt, you wind up with a SURPRISINGLY high volume tank. If the barrel is say, three feet tall and has a radius of a foot, then you have a five foot square opening and a three foot square flat floor, and a tank about a foot deep. Obviously, you could sink it deeper, but at about a foot deep (25 sq ftx1ft=25cu. ft) you get ~190 gallons. I was suprised.
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BUT at the same time... this thread LONG aog started dancing with breaking the "hybrid" rule, and it IS a rule of this forum.
The rule is in place to keep people who say "Hey, I am putting a V8 in car #000087" from getting "OMG YOU TARD!!!1!!1!!!"
Obviously this thread is a "what should I do" thread, and the two opinions should get hashed out, but I think that enough has been said at this point for keeping the car original.
Lets just let the OP and owner of the vehicle decide. Chances are if the young man's dad has owned this car for 38+ years and hasn't modded it beyond recognition, then Junior probably won't get crazy either. (OP: no age-condescending there, just phrasing it the right way)
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its not quick steering that I am worried about its the angle itself when the wheel is at full lock while most 240sx and now my friends Subaru get about 55 degrees. we only get about 35 degrees give or take some lol. but what i am getting at is you can drift smoothly without power steering i am just worried about getting enough angle when sideways
I know you are more concerned about the steering angle, but from what I could gather about the Soobie mod, it was essentially the same thing; shortened steering knuckles, decreased radius, so the linear action of the rack results in a greater angle of wheel movement... the quick steering knuckles would both increase steering reaction, and angle. Both come at a tradeoff of steering effort, and that tradeoff adds up rather quickly.
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or you could call it a "Third" generation ZX (333)
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I give props to whoever can get crazy loose in a Z, as they take some time to get used to!
Thats one of the reasons they are so successful in sportscar racing; it is easy to self-correct, so a mediocre to poor driver with stones the size of South Dakota can outperform an excellent driver in a less forgiving vehicle, who has a wife and kids to think about.
Regarding the previous post...
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC11/23-4181
Quick steering knuckles. The tradeoff is, much more difficulty turning the steering wheel than stock. The shorter you go, the more steering effort required.
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Bitchin, thats definitely the good way to go
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I ran the head again without the plenum, and it was 219 CFM at .5" lift 25" this was with a radius inlet on the intake port flange. At 28" it ran 136 CFM.
I totally agree with you, except I think how you do it is not old fashioned. The computer stuff is just a tool I like to use to identify problems and spark ideas. It is by no means the end all be all. I believe it is simply a good first step in the process that includes flow bench testing and dyno time.
I think that FAR too often, this reality is overlooked.. Computer simulations are used because they are easy to manipulate without consequences; carve out your chambers in CAD, it only takes restoring a backup if you made a mistake. Carve out your chambers in reality, and if its wrong, well.. get the devcon!!
It is good to see that reality and the CAD simulation seem to reflect each other fairly closely. Now, if only more of us had access to five axis CNC mills that we could CNC port our cylinder heads with...
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Don't let yourself get trapped into mimicking the BRE cars.. there is ALOT you can do with some red and some blue on a white car that pays homage to the BRE heritage, and TOTALLY still looks BRE that is more than simply two diagonal parallel stripes on the front quarter.
Whatever you do, it looks great, and its *always* nice to see another rustoleum job; encouraging, if you understand my drift.
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28K on my odometer, and that bugger just keeps creepin up there. Still spinnin those tires, though
I wasn't surprised to see the poll; I have been surprised to see a bunch of kids younger than myself CONTINUE to join, buy, and become a part of this car's legacy. STOP IT!!!! This stuff is supposed to be getting super CHEAP for us at this point!!! you are eating up my car's retirement parts collection!
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I am 28 years old.
Before I turned three, I can remember riding around with my dad on sunday mornings when the rest of the family was in church (the old man is going to hell, heh) riding around in the Z (72 240) drinking chocolate milk and apparently (I have no recollection of this detail) going "vroom vroooom." My dad had moved to NC two months before my third B-day, and we followed him about a month after my B-day, so I was definitely 2+ years at the time.
So, that 72 was totalled by a ten point buck up in NC. My dad has since owned a 70, an 83 turbo, and an 86, all five speeds, all two seaters. My oldest brother had a 74 for a while as a teenager (at one point it was "mine" but it was a parts car by then) and an 82 for some time, youngest bro had an 86 for a while, and now my oldest and younger brothers co own a 240 racecar, and then tehres my uncle's cars. So Datsuns have been my lifeblood from before Day One.
So, I never had a car through high school because I didn't work enough, and I spent too much of my money on immediate funstuff to save for a vehicle. For graduation, my family all chipped in a few hundred bucks and got me a 92 Geo Storm hatchback. My reactions at the time were simultaneous: "They got me a CAR!!!" and "But its a GEO!!!" I loved that little Geo, but after a year it had gone through three timing belts, I had replaced the crank sprockets and woodruff key, and the sprockets and key had become worn again. 170K miles is, apparently, all a Geo has in it.
So, I was looking at saving some cash for a CRX or maybe a Mazda MX-3, or something along those lines, with a STICK shift instead of the godawful slushbox. I barely knew how to drive a stick at the time, but that never changes until you get your OWN car with a manual transmission.
Then, my baby showed up ON MY CORNER for $300. The guy two houses down was selling it to make back some money the owner owed him. It had a stripped out ignition switch (screwdriver key) and a four speed shift knob on it. I sat in it dickering with the shifter, and pushed it through the gears. Sure enough, no fif----WAIT A SECOND, its a FIVE speed!! okay, time to go see if I can borrow $100 from my dad.... Nothing since then has matched the excitement, anticipation, and sheer joy that I felt in the day or two between deciding to buy it, and actually owning it.
So, I figured I would finish this post off with another paragraph that begins "So."
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I have a question for you.
When was the last time you drove a 2400 pound car that had 300 horsepower?
250 horsepower?
Now, a suggestion.. Put an electronic ignition on your car. Get some performance needles for your SU carburetors. Then, do springs, struts, new bushings, get some nice wheels and tires, and see how much you like a measly 140-150 horsepower in the car.
Then see if you REALLY need more than twice that much power, and go from there. At this point, you will have a one owner 240Z that has had nothing substantial done to it to take it from stock. Of course, thats depending on how wild you go with the suspension modifying, but REALLY there is only one good direction to go, so any mods you make will not be looked at with regret by anyone in the future unless they are SUPER purist, and really, those guys are gonna cry anyway.
Seriously... Whatever the fastest car you have driven, I would bet it weighs almost half a ton more than the 240Z. If the car weighed 3100 pounds (brand new corvettes, say) that is almost 33% more mass than the Z, so to have the same ratio the Z does STOCK it would have to have ~225 horsepower. If the car weighs say, 3500 pounds, (firebird/camaro/mustang) then you are looking at needing about 300 horsepower. Now, compare it to a Z with a high powered stock engine, and you get 300 horses to 2400 pounds, your 3100 pound car needs ~450 horsepower (hey look, right about what the new vettes COME with!) and your 3500 pound car needs over 550 horsepower, almost 600.
Weight is horsepower, and more.
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Original post deleted in entirety; total brain fart.
So if increasing the amperage speeds this job up, what DOES increasing the voltage do?? Would it compensate for a larger mass of combined electrolyte/cathode/anode?
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Its always great to get a thanks for simply dropping a clue off where it was needed
I read here FAR more than I *do* on my Datsun, but at least it serves a purpose in helping others with random bubbles of information at the right time. Searching for the details should be a breeze, but I would agree that for "the time being" your stock tranny will hold, and it will probably hold alot longer than "the time being." The trans upgrade is (like many MANY other upgrades for the S30 Z) nice but really, not that necessary. Nissan built us one hell of a little car.
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Are you certain that the wetsanding between the coats with the rustoleum job isn't a step that helps the paint adhere together into one strong coating? I would have to go back and re-evaluate alot of what I have read about that technique, but I was somehow under that impression... if it is just for looks, then I am SUPER GLAD to hear your comments about no wetsanding in between, because as you said... racecar paintjob!! Its there to be used, not to look super pretty. As long as its pretty, its pretty good!!!!
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just to make sure we are clear, don't come running up here to west palm and thrash me when something goes wrong (say, your mixture leans out unexpectedly and you put a hole in your piston) because this IS an awkward and "temporary" way to set something up. If I were trying to do something like this I would be :
A-1: STUDYING EVERY PAGE OF THE EFI BIBLE UNTIL YOU KNOW IT BY PAGE NUMBER.
A-2 Find a way to make sure the mixture is a bit rich
B through E: Find four more ways to make sure the mixture always runs a bit rich; these old computers cannot react quickly, so when one pair of parameters for some reason makes the ECU want to lean the mix out, you NEED to be sure at least one other parameter is countering that. REALLY, the only way to do this sort of thing right is to know the progam algorithm behind the ECU.
and then
F: Get it to run right.
This is a touchy job; be careful and don't get the idea that "the guys on the internet said they used to do it all the time." What I said was, WHEN EFI was retained and tweaked without departing from stock, this is how it was done. I never even messed around with any of this stuff, but when I first got my 280 in Y2K I did some searching and found a few of these tricks. By the time I was at a point where I might have tried to dinker with any of them, I had decided it would be unwise for me, in my situation with my tools.
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Now I am thinking about using 240 tails, with amber bulbs in the backup light section, for the turn signal, one red for brake, one red for tail, and 280 backup lights.....
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OK. So that brings you up to date. We're working hard. Thanks to Guy and Scott at Miller Brothers Hot Rod Barn in North Wilkesboro, NC. Guy did all the work. I stood around and pointed, thought really hard, and took pics. The Z will be at a show in Myrtle Beach, SC at the end of March. However, it probably won't be finished. We're getting there though! I never thought that it would cost this much time and money to get a perfect Z. When it's running, I'm going to build the stock L24 just to have on a stand in the garage. I think that's cool.
!!!! I used to live in North Wilkesboro, and my brother and his ex wife lived in Asheville for a few years while they were in school at UNCA!! My dad's 72 240 (My first memory; THE Z CAR in my mind, like, numero uno) was totalled by a ten point buck taking a leap out of the forest on one side of 115, (between Wilkesboro and Statesville) onto his hood, then into the woods on the other side of the road. Datsun went into the ditch, Buck went off in the brush A-OK.
One time my Uncle was visiting in HIS tricked out 72, and blasted by my schoolbus.. all my classmates were instantly glued to the side of the bus asking if that was a porsche or what?!?!
ahhh, good ol north wilkesboro. Used to know an awesome restaurant there on the Yadkin River.....
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Looks like my idea for a t-5 is out. Sucks though since the z32 swap looks like a lot of pain.
Have you considered the 240SX tranny swap? That transmission is essentially (other than gearing) the same transmission that was in the Nissan hardbody pickups; it is a fairly robust box, and all that you need to do to mount it on an L6 is take the bellhousing/front section of your L transmission, have one of the holes on the front machined out a little to accept a larger bearing or seal (I cannot recall which at the moment, search can help you more) and then put that front cover on the 240SX box. It is a firmer, more solid-shifting, more modern evolution of the gearbox that the Z came with. The transmissions that Nissan used from the 60s all the way through the 90s (at least, most likely further) were a family of evolving gearboxes from hitachi (90% they were the manufacturer, if not it was Fuji Heavy Industries, parent company of Subaru) that all grew one from the next. the autos and the stick shifts were kind of parallels.. My point is, the 240SX transmission is a fairly easy, fairly respectable upgrade. Sure, it won't be as bullet-proof as the 300ZX tranny, but THAT box is just on the other side of a technological divide.. the 240 box is just on THIS side of that divide.
And I may be wrong about the ZX T5.... it wouldn't be the first time. I was trying to deflate your hopes a bit on that, but not quite dash them. Other than the one that was IN my dad's 83 turbo car, I have never seen one in the flesh; world class BW T5, I have seen but probably couldn't pick out of a lineup; ZX T5, I can't even picture TBH. I am simply remembering that it was written the gearbox was a red-headed stepchild of borg warner and Nissan, and not really that much akin to either... I wish I could find the thread but its long gone.
I read here FAR more than I *do* on my Datsun, but at least it serves a purpose in helping others with random bubbles of information at the right time.
Future mods for my L28
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Well, I just bought 1991 Honda CRX HF around Christmastime, and it has had the longblock replaced with a more standard civic 1.5, but still has the HF intake manifold, injectors, and ECU. The short version is, the intake ports on my manifold and on the stock engine are about the size of a quarter (slightly smaller) and the head on the engine now is more like the size of a 50 cent piece, so the manifold is a MAJOR bottleneck.... in one sense. Putting it another way, it is a high velocity inlet manifold with a significant anti-reversionary step at the head flange.
The ECU cuts fuel at 5500 RPM anyhow, so high RPM power isn't just "not my concern," its a non-issue!
The end result on my Honda is a BEAST that is most assuredly quicker than the stock powerplant, and it feels like driving a Mustang! 45mph in first gear is crazy, and 60mph in fifth at 1800 RPM in a Civic is also crazy! The car hasn't gotten registered yet, so I do not have a MPG figure to compare to the stocker's 45mpg, but I suspect I didn't lose much.
If you are interested, (and I have not yet told you in another thread or something) I could send you a PM with some more of the details on my Honda; it seems our goals are largely the same regarding this build for you, and the honda for me.