Daeron

check for a hanging or improperly installed brake pad

..which means, with a bellhousing swap I probably could've used an auto Z gearbox to convert my FWD GL-10 to RWD when the trans crapped out on me last november. O well, it was sold to someone for parts, at least it didn't get crushinated.

pm sent regarding 4-bbl and intake, I might have something for ya...

Live by the parts hoard... die by the parts hoard... RIP

REALLY??? wow. WOW. that pathy trans should be a series descendant of the auto gearboxes in the pickups, 240SXs, and trace it back far enough, the Z-cars as well, isn't it??? I wonder.. I have LONG suspected that soobie and datsun clutch discs would spline onto each other (certain older models specifically I looked up and the spline diameter and spline count was the same) and seriously.. This makes me wonder if you might be able to find a way to use a 4wd nissan pickup/pathy stickshift setup on an SVX using some sort of hybridized bellhousing or adapter plate, OR forget about the SVX, just snag the 3.3 liter, 280 horse box-six out of it and use it in... !????! this thread is so far gone..

Wal-mart sells small cans of cheapo spraypaint, IIRC its a primarily blue label. ~5 ounce can. There is a metallic silver paint that would match the coloration of the manifold and valve cover etc. that you might just be able to use on the brake/clutch hydraulic reservoir caps to make them match. I stumbled across it (I will look in Wally World next time I am there to see if I can find more specific info) and made a special note of how close the color was to "rough polished" aluminum (which is how *I* think of the look you achieved, however much bling the phrase may or may not imply.) I'm out of compliments. I can't think of anything that isn't repeating myself. Its CRAZY how many tiny little chores crop up here at what seems to be the "end game," but don't lose your patience and rush anything you may regret later. As much as we all await each update with bated breath, there's no pressure.

After much laboring nd thought, my dad bought one of the XT6s new in 1989. His other alternative that he thought long and hard over: a brand new Z32. I STILL can't fight the old man's choice.. super-cool as the Z32 is/was.. the Soobie is/was just infinitely cooler.

If you are talking about small holes, just glass them for now. you need to cut out to a good, clean square of unrusted metal when it is time to weld in a patch anyhow.. why not simply, cut out the entire fiberglassed patch when that time comes? The fiberglass floor repair is commiting yourself (or a future owner, beware of Karma) to fixing it later at an increased amount of difficulty. In all honestly, if its properly prepared and you don't wait TOO long) it isn't that much more difficulty. Is it a "bad" thing to do, most certainly.. but if your talking short term "keep my @#$% car dry!!" repair, just go ahead and do that. Just, cut a slightly larger patch out when its metal time. I took a passenger door that was ALWAYS tricky to open and shut (I honestly thought it was frame damage on the car) and fixed it BEAUTIFUL on my car SIX YEARS AGO by dribbling a little bit of 10W-30 onto the latch mechanism that I definitely hit a bajillion times with PB Blaster, WD40, lithium grease, etc to no avail. I would have SWORN that I had tried motor oil as well, but as soon as I had opened and shut it four or five times, the motor oil fixed it so that it sounded new. It STILL sounds and works that well. I would try blasting it out with brake cleaner while you used a screwdriver to move the catch through its range of motion. After that, hit it with motor oil , cycle the catch a couple times with a screwdriver again, and try closing the door.

baby 300Z there is a guy who drives around in the area I deliver pizza with a super clean black 86 turbo 4-cyl 200sx.. ooompy.

I am all about budget road racer.. I just have lost even that much faith in those filters. I picked up a Honda CRX for a DD over christmas; i haven't gotten it on the road yet (a week or two away) but it came with a new Fram filter sitting in the back. I haven't thrown it away YET, and I must confess that already having the Fram makes it tempting to just stick it on there with some fresh Wal-Mart oil and a bit of Sea-Foam or ATF, run that for 100-150 miles, then drain and change... but I JUST can't put that piece of orange on there. Any more, anytime I need oil, I hop online and go to the websites for Autozone. Advance Auto Parts, and Pep Boys (or any other local chains) and find the one thats running the cheapest "oil change" special. Its like grocery shopping... At ANY given point, SOME store has either beef, chicken, or pork on sale at ALL times.

FRAM?!?! Come on!!! Otherwise, the engine looks GREAT to me, i just couldn't believe the Evil Orange!!!

That wrinkle finish stuff is rather nice as well. If black works on the LSx series, it can work for you too

What is the "test mule" but a stock car in original form? The G-nose car was tested once, at stock ride height, with no other alterations. There is no "better" or "best" in this situation, there is only "make the car work at the given performance plateau." The car can work in either trim, as long as the air does not make it in the front opening. You will note that the ONLY total CD excursion below .40 is the red test mule with MSA type 3 air dam with like 90% of it all blocked off (in a form not pictured in the thread) The G-nose car, like the stocker, was used at stock ride height and hit only in standard configuration IIRC.. I do not see the full backstory and can't remember where it all went at the moment, but in the end, there were really two cars which were used as controls to test various pieces, and then two (maybe more? maybe more were planned?) cars to test as baselines to compare the baselines of the two "variable" cars. There was ALOT of data trying to be grabbed in one day and they did their best to make it broadly informative.

Tube on back bumper of TonyD's car: parachute, its a speed record car.

nobody with a header to copy.

Heater line idea: Cut, tap with external thread, and get 90 degree fittings? Looks GREAT, but I guess its time to let this thread die as the query is answered......

Is the bumper any more substantial than a 240 bumper? Thinking in terms of crash protection.... This is news to me. Been too long since I've seen a 260 apparently sorry for the threadjack!

Definitely sounds closer to "ideal" IMHO.. and far more practical than what I have thrown at you. (thats a problem of mine TBH ) Maybe a largish triangle for the main "dead corner" and two smallish ones on the other two? Honestly I wouldn't make them too much smaller even.. but when you start thinking about it the "other two" probably "should" be triangles with sides of uneven length, pointing primarily towards the TB inlet, and with the shortest side being the base of that triangle on the front passenger head side/rear driver firewall side of the original "house." (In other words, the "primary arrow" of the triangles would each point towards the TB flange, the "secondary arrow" would point towards the exit to the manifold, and the broadest, shallowest arrow would point back towards the firewall, or out along the firewall towards the passenger wheel.) The main "dead corner" I would say, make an isosceles triangle (two long equal sides, one shorter base) with the base on the top, and the point going down towards the exit to the manifold. I am trying to "blunt" the corners in a manner that is intuitive to the airflow.. but I am no expert by any means, I am just throwing ideas your way. I gladly welcome any critique or correction by anyone who has done this before. I have NO idea at what point the ideas I have might start becoming a wild goose chase (point of diminishing returns and all) but I think the ideas we've reached are a pretty good spot to shoot for with a first attempt. It is all easy to replicate with sheetmetal and a welder, its just a matter of mocking up the angles and lines... and it seems fairly workable. With nice looking welds, on, say aluminum sheet... it actually sounds downright pretty if you ask me

That gave me rather a chuckle

That gave me rather a chuckle

Chalk up another one for China!! (as long as we go back and make sure the QC is up to snuff, LOL)

That gave me rather a chuckle

WRONG, the build change date was sometime LATE in the 1976 model year!! I have that EXACT door on my 75 280!! The 260 and 280 doors were, indeed, subtly different from the 240 doors; the handles and armrests were altered, and if I am not mistaken the lock pull may have even been moved slightly. I know the window regulators and other window hardware (not sure on the glass itself) are not all the same between 70 and 76. BUT, the latches, the orifice in the vehicle, the seals, all are the same and the door is a straight bolt-in, AND it goes both ways, (ie, 75 280 doors on a 70 240Z, if you had to) So, in a sense, 70-mid76 owners are in one junkyard part supply world, and late76-78 owners are in another junkyard part supply world, and Courtesy is not entirely wrong (although the part they have is, I would bet, a 240 door shell. I didn't look THAT closely at it.) THAT is why I want, SO BADLY, to get a photo study of all these doors.. I don't have the stock ones from my 75 anymore but my uncle has many doors up in his shop, and I could (if I had time and opportunity to go a digging) post a spread of many many different years' doors.. THAT is what we need.

ouch Old car market in south florida SUCKS. period.

and you never hear about a 2.9 liter because most people building the stroker, are using the LD crank, L24 rods, and KA24 pistons, which line up at the right deck height, and are 89mm bore, so boring the block is kind of standard anyhow. This nets you ~3.098L. Bore a stock 280 to 89mm and get custom pistons, and you have ~2.949 liters. Push it to 89.5 and you are up to ~2.982. Those pistons on a stroker assembly would have ~3.133L. but that bore is REALLY hairy regarding cylinder wall thickness. Many say "no way." Point is, there is more difference between the stroke of an L24 and the stroke of an L28, than there is between the stroke of an L28 and that of an LD28. Also, you'll notice that every time I quoted a displacement, it had one of these jobs in front of it~~~~~ That is because I was lazy and used the calculator. Calculators cannot build engines using facts from the internet, or a book, or anyone. People build engines using machines to measure, size properly, and assemble. Even taking a factory fresh engine apart and rebuilding it to stock specs for a stock race motor, every thing is checked, spec'd, and all math is done. If you use a calculator, even a SUPER GREAT ONE, it is an estimate! If you do ALL the math yourself, but the numbers did not come off the dial indicators for YOUR ENGINE parts, then you will end up with an ESTIMATE. That cannot be stressed enough. The calculators are great things, handy to have around. For Estimating.