Daeron

If you are looking for a very very nice one, I have one we found that I am pretty sure is NOS that I am going to eBay soon. I know I have one other, complete with a good map light I was about to list after getting nice pictures. There is a small crack at 3 o clock on the right hand screw hole, and the two screws are kinda "sunk" in to both the map light and the face plate. The map light housing is also beginning to crack from the back side on both screw holes, but this is a wordy description of what you see and think "It is forty years old, thats in pretty good shape." If you would rather find just a faceplate, I am keeping my eyes peeled and will put your name on the first solo escutcheon I find. I'm gonna find out what to ask you for this map light but in the meantime you can throw me an offer.

Have you read the sticky on How To Balance Your Valvetrain?? The process is much less complex than even that. Valvetrain has many many more and different types of parts that need to be balanced and matched.. You only have six piston rods. I haven't ever actually done it myself, but I would be with the "Yes, get it taken care of now that you are thinking about it, because you are thinking about it" school here.

You *could* also get ahold of an L28 to drop into your S13....... It has been done before! Six cylinder goodness, still Nissan, without the price of getting an RB... Throw it together with some carbs and its easy to get 200 horse for 2K, if you can find the right engine package to pick up, or maybe a bit more if you have to source things and put it together yourself. The transmission from the S13 is swapped into S30s frequently by way of a modified L-series bellhousing on the S13 gearbox... so that much is easy, you just have to fit the engine under the hood. Not sure how easy this is or is not, but as I said it HAS been done before and it would certainly turn heads just from the sound.

Great beauty, great union.. Great Photo!!!

Thats sweeter than a watermelon in August, man!!! That is the Bee's Knees, and the Gnat's Knuckles!!! I want to say it would have been nice to hear RPM's, but at the same time I want to say I respect you more for not revving your cold started engine. Are you considering investing any more time into cleaning the appearance of the throttle bodies themselves up, or are you pretty much planning on leaving the bosses and hoses and various other obsolete bits as they are? I love how the current appearance of the bodies lends itself to the idea it might be a factory configuration.. but at the same time I wonder how much cleaner it could look. Obviously the car is completely in flux, so please don't take any of this as criticism. I am just stoked to see things stoichifying properly!!

I wasn't exactly pointing that the TB cross sectional area to runner or valve area was problematic.. just that one of your "huge by large" TBs was installed here, and they used those magical "oversized" size valves (thats a metric oversized, not a standard oversized.. Standard oversized valves in a boosted car would just be.. overkill.. ) BUT THEY KEPT RUNNER DIAMETER NEARLY STOCK, which is the BIGGEST reason to take the bloody stock manifold off!!! I had TOTALLY forgotten about this car in my little 3 week HybridZ vacation. Finding this thread again reminded me of the car, which just made me ANGRY, GRRRRRRRRRRR.. How can people get so upset when they spew so much BS and get called for it?!!! And WHY do these people get to share Paradise with me when they are so ignorant and undeserving?! No angst directed your way, Paul; I failed to make the full comparison which was my bitter intent clearly in my first statement. I had to come back and do it with some pizzazz.

Honesty. Sorry if it seems a trifle rude. My reaction was "If you have to ask the question of S30 versus S13, and "the D word" is involved at all, then the 240SX is your answer.. If I knew a guy with a 91 Z-28, and a '70 Z-28, and he was thinking of setting one up for a street/some track Fun DD car, and wanted to know which he should do.. I know I'd be pointing at the third gen. Save the Papa John Z-28 for a big hole in the hood and a blower, something to spin out on the weekends to turn heads and have fun and look cool in.. that MAYBE sees 1500 miles a year. SURE, your pretty Z-car is going to be used a HECKUVA lot more than that, but keep the Z for putting a fancypants looking engine with triple webers under the hood to look cool and score street cred at weekends when you show up in that instead of the 240SX. The Z can have ANYTHING done to it, and this way you can take the projects on it one step at a time and do them right. If you want a unique drift car, go get an 80's 4WD Subaru, convert it to RWD, (a Z-car or 240SX driveline could be used for this, with an R180 rear end and an adapter plate to bolt the trans to the engine. The transmissions used in the Z-car, the 240SX, and the Subarus were all of VERY VERY common lineage.) drop an NA EJ22 into the thing and do something for rear E-brake (the soobies had E-brake on the front!!(?)!) and THEN you will turn heads. BRAT, station wagon, coupe, sedan, or even the rare Touring Wagon with the 2 1/2" hi-rise roof... LEETNESS!! So if I seemed blunt or rude at the outset, I figured I would get bizarre for comic relief. All my comments were intended to help you reach your best outcome; good luck!

Wow times wow, to the cool power. I've gotta start cutting things up, even if I don't know how to weld them back together yet. I cannot BELIEVE the acreage between the TBs and the fenderwell there.

If the header is an MSA header and it is simply missing the little Y-pipe, you can also order that from MSA. I did just that, once upon a time, and it was 20 or 30 bucks IIRC. Call them up and speak to them, in five minutes you can ask about four or five questions and they'll answer with a smile and let you hang up to think about what you want to do.

My fourth-grade level thread is all grown up.... *sniff*

Nice pictures!!! very natural exposure, what kinda of camera was that?

I've kept quiet on this, because my relevant experience was with a Geo, and because I didn't want to write a book about a Geo in response to your situation.. so I will try to be short and sweet. My first car was a 92 Geo Storm hatchback. Pretty sweet little ride, except for the automatic tranny.. 1.6 liter, aluminum block four cylinder, 12 valve single cam head (two intakes one exh I THINK) It had like, 160K on the odometer when I got it upon high school graduation. After four thousand miles, the timing belt snapped on me while driving on I-95. (Turned into a MUCH worse day than that... ugh) I could NOT, for the life of me, over the next two WEEKS, get the crankshaft bolt off; at first the car was 40 miles from my house, at a friends.. Using a breaker bar and a big pipe with the starter motor didn't get it. Took the car to my brother's house and he eventually broke off the half-moon flange that served as the bottom half of the sprocket cover (part of the block casting) to slip the new timing belt on. Eventually the leaking oil seal destroyed this timing belt as well, so THIS time I threw one on, and got the car to my brother's shop where The Big Impact Gun was used to bust the crankshaft bolt loose, and voila!!! Oil seal changed. This is all playing out over my Summer of Freedom and then first year of college, remember. Four thousand miles later the car runs awful again and we find that the whole time, the woodruff key has been wearing out. Replaced the Pulley, bolt, washer, and key all with new Isuzu parts (to the tune of about $150, IIRC) and thought I was FINALLY good to go!!! Four thousand miles later, the pulley had warbled itself again, the timing was slopping back and forth again, and the car barely ran again. The ENTIRE problem had re created itself. (AWESOME AWESOME ENDING THAT HAS TO BE INCLUDED HERE EVEN THOUGH IT IS UTTERLY UNRELATED TO THIS THREAD: My 75 280Z showed up on the corner I lived on.. the guy THREE houses down was selling it.. for $300!! got in and checked it out and saw the four speed shift knob, shofted through the pattern while I was investigating the rest of the intrior, and suddenly, it actually DID pop up into fifth! I was SOLD. Efff the Geoooooo!!!!) At this point, the Internets was becoming ubiquitous (finally) and my oldest brother stumbled across a link similar to the one shown in this thread; loctite the living hell outta the crank pulley bolt, pray, hold on, and know that one day your hindquarters shall be bitten again, and the piper shall demand his pay. So we finally realized that some PO had loctited the engine before ever giving us the car... hence all the difficulties. Four thousand miles, though... like CLOCKWORK. Timing belt blew, because the oil seal blew, because the crankshaft had simply been utterly... Heck, I don't even know. This story is my archetypal Unexplained Mystery Internal Failure that Taught Me How To Fix My Own Car. The official diagnosis for the engine in the Geo, in my mind, was simply a word that rhymes with "plucked."

http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1741514377.html Straight quote, no snipping any statements out: "5 angle valve job with heavily ported and polished head , ferrea oversized valves, custom intake manifold with 1 1/2 runners, wilson 90mm throttle body ," Thats 38.1mm ID runners on "oversized" valves. Did the numbers and the 90mm TB is *slightly* less cross-sectional than 6x1.5 inches, but still, how big are the valves? How big are the runners? HOW much HP was this supposed to make?

This is NOT a passive-aggressive message to you Josh, but the key is quoted here, and the REALLY important bit is boldened. I know this one the friggin hard way. I (believe it or not) am a TALKER. I talk WAY too much. About everything. In grimacing detail. I am the guy who it is hard to hang up the telephone with; the guy who can't leave your house and can't take the hint when you are trying to leave his. (Those last two, just a little bit.) Because of this fact, I get alot of people who simply gloss over anything I ever have to say, and so they never realize what value much of what I say holds to them. (Personally my philosophy is, I says what I says, you takes from it, whadevah you wants.) I am TERRIBLE at first impressions because I run on. The levels at which this has effected me are sublime and I will NOT go into them here, besides to say that even good ideas, insightful questions and helpful comments ALL have their times when they ought to stay trapped in your head. How does any of this abstract, ethical philosophizing bear on this thread whatsoever?? I think we can agree to the statement that "You must have said something wrong to these distributors to give them an insufficient impression of your intent/ability." If we can agree to that (the italic being the key) then the best way to ever avoid saying something wrong is not to say anything. Obviously you have to communicate, but lets face it.. you are enthusiastic and full of ideas, most of which will likely fail, and you haven't tried much of those ideas yet. You also seem to enjoy talking a bit, and are certainly not the type to post short and sweet style here on hybridZ; your ideas and discussions are further ranging than "What heat range plugs do you guys all run?" I am wagering heavily that somehow or another, the wordiness of your nature somehow got the better of you. (I had a similar vibe regarding myself when Les Cannaday came to buy my uncles BRE Roadster.. I kinda wanted to make sure any impression I made was a positive one, and when he left I got the feeling that he felt I didn't know jack. Honestly I could almost hear him thinking "typical ignorant east coasties..." Not trying to bash Les, just telling a story. If I hadn't brought up a certain point that I was simply curious about his knowledge of, I think things would have ended on a better note as far as his opinion of me.) I don't know if you get where I am coming from or if you think i'm just quacking away, but this is definitely the most bizarre and in certain ways, rule-breaking thread ever NOT toolshedded here.... But to me, it ties into the concept of "The same, but different." I have no clue what subtle cultrual context that may have in Japan, but the depths of that statement have rung true since before I could have phrased it like that. The phrase "Rules are made to be broken" ties into "the same, but different" in my eye; most of the time, a hyper-critical flame-fest of a thread gets shut down in short order. Rarely has there been a thread here more repeatedly critical of a member (speaking sheer number of posts against the guy before locking) that was not shut down much earlier. Rules say this sort of thing is not to be; BUT this thread is the same, but different. We respect and like you Josh, and are trying desperately to point out a flaw of elf-centeredness that we (at least I, and I am pretty sure Tony) see FAR FAR too much of. It isn't easy to accept constructive criticism, and your not having lost your cool has been impressive. I'm posting this; if I go back and try to proof-read I will second guess it sixty million times. I hope it is all coherent.

One major thing about the butt-dyno is.. the butt-dyno has about four or five different sensors, all of which read a different parameter. The Dyno Controller Apparatus (your cerebral cortex, or your brain stem, or your inner ear, or whatever) takes those inputs, multiplies them, and spits into your conscious brain this impression of power or that impression of power. Already in this thread, the descriptions of how power can feel are abundant; this is because the butt dyno gives us a smile of varying intensity; nothing more. We add the comments like "pushed back in the seat" versus "head pressed against the headrest" to give that some perspective, but talking about how fast a car is is a subject that takes excruciatingly long-winded and semantically perfect phrasing. My CRX HF is a great example.. Heres the tranny gearing: 1: 3.25 2: 1.65 3: 1.03 4: 0.864 5: 0.694 Final Diff is 2.98:1 (In a CIVIC!) Second gear pulls are two totally different animals depending on whether I pushed first ALLLLL the way (ECU cuts fuel at 5200 RPM) or not. The motor is torquey as all get-out, but with these gears it takes a loong time to really feel any acceleration at ALL. Unless you watch the speedo, which just climbs, and climbs, and climbs, and suddenly holy CRAP, I AM DOING SIXTY FIVE IN A FORTY AND JUST BLEW BY A COP IN MY RED HONDA, AW CRAP.... That is a torquey motor thanks to a teeny tiny intake manifold supercharging my intake charge at mid RPM, low throttle. Easy shift into second at reasonable rate, reasonable throttle, if left unattended, suddenly I am in trouble without knowing it! This is a conversation that can never be had often enough. It seems to me the more I have it, the more I pick up not just from other people, but from re-analyzing my own experiences. Edit: Oh yeah, you *are* a cop. Tee-hee!!

Full FRP Monocoque Shell & all panels- complete from £4750 Front wing - Each from £125 Door - Each from £195 Bonnet/Hood from £125 Boot/Trunk Lid + Spoiler from £115 Front Airdam/Splitter from £95 Dashboard from £175 Bumper front from £85 Bumper rear from £85 Thats around 900 quid for the complete front end and doors!!! Even at 1.5 exchange that is under 1500 USD for a LOT of plastic! Too bad its gotta take a long boat ride, huh?!?

Too cool!! I LOVE the wicked taper your runners must have!!!

Listen, Josh, I've learned a LOT of HARD effing lessons, and none of that learning has done me too much damned good in the end, but one thing I have learned to hold highest is this: dickheads push us farther than ANYTHING else. That is a lesson learned from (and taught to) four full blood brothers over thirty years (and counting.) America has a bunch of problems, and a handful of those that are the most fundamental, cross all borders and divides between "types" of people. Tony and I are from very disparate types of people (about as broad as you can get and still both be white males) but we both seem to agree pretty closely regarding some of the issues regarding our own (American) problems with humility, mutual respect, and self respect. I say this based on some pretty deep private communications sent over the years... I have wanted to get to know this jerk who appeals to my intellect like no other jerk I;ve ever met. you gotta remember, I cut my teeth on zcar.com back when I was one of the little first generation of internet teenagers in lust with Z-car (a lifetime of experience notwithstanding) and knowing absolutely jack outside of what my dad (amateur) taught me, most of which was hearsay and false... (or at best, misled) I thought Tony was teh basement kitty!!!!!!! The reason things went so incredibly amplified in criticizing you, was an attempt to communicate to you the depth of the real offense in even suggesting publicly duplicating this. Or if you prefer, publicly suggesting duplicating it. I said grab-ass indicating what I call a "me-first" mentality that is widely championed (at least it has in my American Tale) here. Obviously everyone has to look out for Number One, but looking out for yourself doesn't mean putting others out of their own, and this thread really did kinda rapidly spiral out into pointless discussion that ALL really made you look bad; much worse than your intent was. I dig your intent; I understand it, share it, and I intend on shadowing your efforts, asking piercing questions, and growing every bit you do.. but this is software piracy. It is trade infringement, it is copying off someone else's paper. But don't lose sight of the fact that the ONLY reason any of it came up is because your critics all know you fairly well, and we al respect you, and foremost, we all actually think you might heed the criticism. So few of those who might show ill tendencies (even here on hybridz) can even be talked to.. all they know is their own myopic viewpoint. You (and I would like to think, myself as well) can even be approached with this sort of character assessment and not completely flip out and get defensive; SOMEWHERE we've got to fight the fight to improve our society. It can only be the battles we choose to fight because we have a chance of winning. The next step is to build a motor with a huge, hogged out head (intake AND EXHAUST, we always seem to undercut the exhaust compared to those guys over there) and set that mondo, 2 inch primary to 4 inch pipe to some crazy spouted muffler exhaust, and get a rebello cam into it, and hit that glass ceiling. Walk up to the Wako people with that longblock and that dyno chart in hand and they'll sell you the 75s and pay for the interpreter to make sure you understand how to use it. Also, I'm not sure if you quite understand that they price this camshaft only at this level specifically to filter out almost all of us from even thinking about it.. they don't want to deal with you, unless that price is of no importance to you in your quest. Dave Rebello sets his prices the same way, your dad does the same thing in his own way. (I used to work for a veterinarian who was much more adventurous than your average urban family vet when it comes to surgery.. he would willingly (and competently) perform ocular, abdominal and thoracic, and orthopedic surgeries that most local guys would refer to the one local specialist, but a handful of old school and/or nerdy vets did themselves. His price schedule was literally nothing more or less than a ten year old version of the local specialist's. My point is, he provided the people with a non board certified (AAHA approved but not blinged out to be a specialist ) and less expensive option; some took it, some paid the premium, and he proudly supported anyone who wanted to send it out to Dr. Roy. Sometimes you price for convenience, sometimes you price for exclusivity. If you keep nagging them, they might push the price up to $1500.

Josh--I think the sigh comes up for two reasons. One, you seem to fail to grasp the point that Tim was trying to make in what I quoted: namely, that the radical cams you are looking at will only be sold to a customer when that customer approaches Kamerai and says "I have this engine, with these power goals in mind, this is what my prep work is, that is how the valvetrain is set up, what cam should I go for?" and the combination described matches what the cam was built for. In other words, you need to approach them NEEDING their cam to finish you off, not using their cam as a keystone. (Interesting Side idea: Keystone Kamshafts??) the second reason, I will be blunt about: your self-serving attitude is overwhelming your sense of decency because of your injured pride on the "They won't sell me their camshaft?!?" issue. There is an attitude that is deemed healthy in the US; my dad calls it WIII-FM because he was made to attend a seminar run by an MBA once that used that metaphor. It is a radio station that Sucessful People listen to.. WIII-FM stands for What Is In It For Me? When that attitude rules your life, you can pretty much punch out in my book; I have no respect for anyone who truly puts themselves ahead of all others, at all cost. I would like to think that ethic is present to some degree in most decent people. Josh, I think these guys are trying to find a nice way of saying you are being too much of a grab-ass. No one is judging you on these grounds (at least, I am not; simply offering what I intend to be constructive criticism) but lets look at some Elecbrity Drama over the last few months. What you are (were) proposing is not unlike Jay Leno taking the Tonight Show back. Is it wrong? Not really... is it right? No, probably not. You know me well enough to know I'm not trying to punch you in the gut here, so please bear that in mind. I understand your real motivations behind this whole posting are to expand your own understanding of the breathing characteristics of the engine, so that you could know yourself what that shape translates into... but honestly, I am going to wager that you might find best results if you learn Japanese.

If you really want to keep up with a Mustang GT with the stock (or close to stock) engine, then the engine alone will eat up your entire stated budget, leaving the paint, any rust issues, the brakes, the interior, the wheels, and the suspension pretty much as they are. We need to know the condition of the car. My uncle passed away last August as well, and we have alot to be done with his Datsuns as well as the ones we already had, so I understand the situation you are in, but we don't have a clue what the car is like. If he had upgraded a few key aspects of the car already (chances are decent) then the 2500 starts stretching much further down the road.. Otherwise, an electronic ignition, a freshened/pepped up 2.4 or 2.8 liter block with an aftermarket cam and some prepped SUs will pretty much eat up 2500 bucks. You might get some triples in there.. but for all we know, you might have triples already!! Now, dropping in a smallblock could probably be done (if your mechanic is the right guy who will really go a mile for you) with a couple bucks left over, because there is a fair chance at snagging a motor, with carb and transmission, for STUPID cheap because it is American Iron and it is plentiful. That nets you 200 + wheel horsepower easily, sometimes for $500. If your guy spends $1000 putting that engine in, it still leaves you with another grand to get some tires, upgrade the brakes a bit, and maybe get some springs and struts lined up, and a bushing kit to tighten the chassis back up to better-than-par. I am NOT the "Put a smallblock in your Z-car!!" guy!!!!!!! I am the archetypal L6 lover, and even if your uncle didn't touch the car it may yet have pieces worth making it into a nice runner. L28 engines are available cheaply, too, and an L28 block (the one with flat top pistons) combined with an early 71 head (an E31, your car may or may not have this head) could be slapped together, with rebuilt and mildly modified stock 71 SU carburetors, and net you a peppy but economical engine that has room for much growth later down the line when you take the head off, enlarge the valves, and put a bigger camshaft in it. Of course, that would mean bigger carbs than the stockers, or possibly a switch to EFI, but I am showing you how the path could go. In the end, it is a wash, and as much depends on your tastes as anything else. "Budget" is a joke around here; I am a junkyard cheapskate and even I never stop throwing money at these $%^#$#$^&*ing things, you know?

Ross is right, there is no user-serviceable "adjustment" for the mixture. The stock L28E EFI is un-tuneable, if you go by-the-book, and anything that isn't by the book is guesswork. It is only guesswork to the same degree you depart from the book's line, but it goes something like this: -Tweaking the AFM wiper can move the enrichment curve further up the line of air volume consumption. In other words, this simply jumps the "air flow" input to the computer by a set increment, across the board. SOMETIMES the spring can be weakened, but this can only be determined by calibration using weights and a good ohmmeter. This process is laid out in the Techtips, along with more advice on why you should only use these AFMs at factory spec. If the spring has weakened, it needs to be replaced. Tightening it may make your car run better, but it still isn't right. -Looping into the CTS/Cold Start enrichment input loop with a potentiometer (to replace the thermistor that told the ECU when the engine was cold, which provided a minimal fuel enrichment at all times, but not indexed in the same way the AFM was linear.) This knob essentially acts as an "over-rich" knob. -Some have replaced the AFM with a hybridized AFM from a Toyota Cressida, using the guts from the original Datsun AFM. This modification, along with some other "breathing" mods like possibly minor head or manifold work, a cam with more lift and/or duration, or a larger throttle body, should be useable to tune the stock EFI to some more power.... BUT... ..All of this is guesswork, trying to fool a 35 year old "computer" that is less complex than a knockoff free ipod from the bank. That "computer" was tuned for a combination of efficiency, cleanliness, and long-term reliability, and those components are VERY simple. You can only fool it by shifting this curve up an axis, or by adding this non-linear, non-regular tweak to richen up the fuel, or adding fuel pressure to help keep up with the air demand at a more "stock-like pace," or anything else that could be rationalized. Sure, maybe you can make the car feel more powerful, maybe it IS, but this kind of tuning is ALOT of guesswork and takes much repeated failure before you learn how to do it right. I haven't done much of this stuff to the stock EFI, but I researched it and started thinking hard about it, before I realized it simply wasn't worth it for the likely minimal gains. All that is an extremely longhand way of saying: don't tweak your AFM in any way other than the calibration method laid out at blue's TechTips page. It isn't healthy, and nothing that would do would effect two out of six cylinders. Chances are something is causing those two injectors to seep slightly, and not close. Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Try pulling all the spark plugs, carefully stuffing a paper towel into each cylinder, turn the car on (to make the fuel pump prime; hotwiring the fuel pump may be simpler? If you aren't 100% clear on how to make your pump prime I can check and make sure I am 100% positive I know what your year does and let you know.) Anyhow, see if more fuel seeps onto the rags in the problem cylinders. If you don't want to bother, I don't blame you; You are probably on the right path and new injectors will likely fix this problem, IF the emissions issue is that tied to the black sparks on #5&6. Good luck, and I hope I was able to paint you a decent picture of how the EFI can (but maybe shouldn't) be modified and tweaked.

Water pump on an EA82 is a breeze.. you just can't leave the timing belt covers on that motor or it becomes a 6 hour hassle dealing with the captured nuts spinning in the plastic of the back side of the covers. My T-belt covers are actually sitting on top of the garbage can right now even though the car was gone two years ago.. they sat in a box in my storage unit and I just recently came across them and finally pitched em.

FLAT-HEAD SCREWS!!!!

Not that baffled... FWIW, I would think a good sump on the tank would suffice for a street car, unless you are running dangerous levels of boost and compression. Those two numbers are what would determine your need in my mind. Unfortunately, I am talking from my internet hole and not experience, so I cannot give you absolutes, but my view has always been "mild to moderate build, sump is enough, moderate to whoa build, might start thinking surge tank, WHOA to race you start going baffled/sumped/foam cored cell."

Damn, thats a good one!!! OP: Especially if you do what was mentioned above, I like what you said you would do. Good luck!!!!! These things stink when they come back and haunt you, so I hope you get it buttoned up, whatever you do.