Daeron

Badass times a bajillion, goodness times a googol, and envy to infinity!!! Six is too many, one is too simple.. it turns out I like my Datsuns best in old skool hi-fi Stereo!!!!! (complete with a valvetrain subwoofer lol)

Please refresh my memory/clarify: is this a part for a 78 only?

Well, actually a carb'd car has a totally different system. In the EFI system, the fuel pump relay is there for a few reasons. The electric fuel pump on the 260 was there only to supplement the mechanical fuel pump on the engine... so I do not know where the relay is, but the only purpose for such a relay would be to ensure that the fuel pummp is OFF when the engine is NOT running... A fuel pump relay on a carb system like that is only there to cut the pump OFF in case of an accident. In any case, its totally unrelated to the contents of this thread.

beg poardon, try googling the phrase plus TonyD, he's where it came from.

Tabo san gata!!! Tabo san gata!!!

IF you have them on the car. I searched many a RWD Maxima, 82, 83, and 84 (and probably earlier) and it took me about three years to actually find the right one. Once upon a time, you could actually order the part from Nissan, IIRC....

This also means, you HAVE to make a chevrrari motor at some point, or I get to beat you with a giant foam cluebat for not making the super cool camshaftmachine.

ahem.

I have a frank confession to make. I've got so much less experience in actually, first-hand (ie, not "helping dad" when i was still a kid" restoring these cars.. I've worked ALOT with my dad, uncle, and brothers, but being the extra hand isn't much. I had four plus years of service from my stock EFI 75 280 with some problems, but nothing serious along the way.. I grew up in these cars.. and I have read. And read. And read. But really, 95% of the "build threads" show SO much more work than was ever actually done by me, to my Z, its ridiculous. On top of that, I get thanks from all these people whose threads I've been subscribed to.. I just read, and have ideas. It seems (to ME) that most of my ideas pan out to be blind alleys.. but I throw my ideas out without hesitating. That's it; I had a teacher once (in the SECOND GRADE if you believe it) who taught me about brainstorming, and she said it's all about quantity, not quality.. Bad ideas are still IDEAS, and they can always shed a little light on better ideas. Bad or "dumb" ideas are still excellent and useful things. I just feel guilty being thanked so especially, just for gabbing!! Glad I can be of assistance. As for my little speech about ideas.. Teach yer kids, I guess!!

What about the secondary throttle plates?? Kennedy half-dollar? Golf-ball? I can't tell you how many times I have come close to strangling Google for not being able to find me any information on those throttle bodies that doesn't come from you, Tony. As far as the other "ewe..." Whats the difference between The Rolling Stones, and a drunken Scots farmer? The Stones sing "Hey, You, Get offa mah cloud!!" and the Scotsman shouts, (assume thick scotty accent here) "'Eyyy!! MacCleod!! Git Offa Mah Ewe!!!!

hey, the smaller holes net you more torque "down low"

Okay, I went to the U-Pull and Pay on Benoist Farms today (the place that used to be called the Auto Recycle Center) and there were a few Quest minivans that I eyeballed... One of them had a loose exhaust manifold, and I pulled it forwards. The cat had been cut off, but it was a funky shaped pipe that bolted onto each bank's manifold.. it looks almost like a lopsided stethoscope. After the two banks merge, there is ONE O2 sensor bung, and then the pipe was cut off so I presume the catalytic converter was mounted roughly between the two front seats... so the Quest at least uses a single O2 sensor for both banks.

I would just mount an air filter nearly directly on the turbocharger, and build a thin sheetmetal wall to block airflow from the radiator off from that section of your underhood area. Run the compressor outlet underneath the engine as shown by ktm, into that side of the intercooler (YOUR driver side I guess) and then the outlet from the intercooler has a short run straight back towards your throttle body, just like the stock L28E setup. At the same time, find a way to divert cool air flow from up front over towards your air filter. You SHOULD ideally have the intercooler and radiator (and AC condenser, if present) sealed together in one box of airflow(condenser smallest, then IC, then rad, each has its own "independent airflow" area but air can't leak around any of them) and then have the entire front inlet of the car essentially ducted off to that "wall" anyhow.. you can find a way to snake a duct out of the high pressure "mouth" of the car to let some air go over there for fresh air for your air filter, then it will flow over the turbo and exhaust manifolds and provide them with a nice fresh breeze, too. That is my "Ideal piping setup" blurb.

how much??? Whats the interior like?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible

Like he said, for specific answers you need to search and spend several hours reading over material that sounds like the same story time and time again.. the value of this forum is in repetition, and trying to benefit from mistakes others have made before you. Nevertheless, it is a discussion forum, and crying "search" sorta kills that side of it, so I will give you a few points to help straighten you out on your path, and maybe answer a few questions. Now, First let me say that while I own and drove a stock EFI 280Z for four years, my old man and uncle have driven various 240Zs for decades, my dad had an 83 turbo stock etc etc.. I have NEVER done a turbo swap, so understand that what I say to you is all "hearsay" or information picked up through the internet rather than firsthand. (standard disclaimer, yanno) As far as simple, without getting the 280ZXT wiring harness and ECU and complete longblock with manifolds etc.. you've got a task ahead of you. the 280Z harness can certainly be used (I think some issues will arise in the distributor section) but I do not know what you are going to do regarding ECU.. I *think* the turbo ECU might plug in in place of the nonturbo but I really am not sure. I know I have heard of people getting a turbo running on non-turbo ECU, but its shakey at best.. For $1000 (probly less, possibly more like 600-700) you could get a megasquirt kit (with other bits needed) and a wiring harness from them that you could use to supplement the 240 wiring harness and make it work. Regarding the transmission, the T5 may not be such a no-brainer.. but having a fourspeed just plain stinks, let me tell you... Keep your eyes peeled for a five speed, look at the options such as 240SX swap in (not too too difficult) and make your mind up "later." The four speed is surely good enough to get the car up and driving; it won't explode on you unless its already on its last legs. These boxes are pretty darned solid, all things considered. If you are good with wiring diagrams, google the terms xenons30 and xenons130 for websites that have links to download the various years' FSMs, and study some wiring schematics. See what you have to deal with. Go to DIYAutotune's website (advertised heavily here) and look at the megasquirt kits and wiring harnesses and FAQs and see what you want to do. A MS kit will make it easy to make power with the turbo motor; you could use that to build a car that has 300 or so horsepower laying in wait, but has a "girlfriend mode" to drive around town with... or just set it up in "girlfriend mode" for good. the 300ZX stuff is really involved, and super cool... but you've got to be motivated, inventive, and pretty much a total geek to really want to do it (I want to because I love MAF for some reason I haven't quite explored fully) The research about the stock swap versus MS and all the other stickies should explain most of that to you well enough... in short, you have to take like, half of the EFI system from the 300ZX, and do some crazy stuff to make it work right... and in the end its still just basically, what Nissan would have sold if it still used the L28 as a power plant in the late 1980s with the level of tech they were using at the time.

There was a narrow window of production years for the maxima (82-83ish? maybe 84?) that had a bolt-on bracket for the rear disc brake caliper. IF that bracket is bolted on (not welded) then the bracket can be used to bolt rear discs from a 280ZX (82-83) directly onto the back of an S30 Zcar. I can't recall what the production date was on the ONE CAR i have found that actually had the bolt on ones, but i want to say it was an 83. Thats about the only other bit I can think of.

Hard to tell which, because there are two sets (at LEAST) that are similar. I have a set of the Western Turbines on my 280 (click "fusible links blow" in my sig) but I THINK yours are the ones with just a slightly broader space between the "spokes." Obviously, you could count your spokes and compare them to mine and prove me wrong; its hard to tell from those pics posted recently with the black paint. Why?? Someone want to buy a set of turbines??

Well, the relevant photos are posted already.. the information is there, but it needs someone to play editor and write it all up. In short, the door pictured in post 21 is the "later" door, and the earlier pictured door is the "earlier" door. the specific changeover date seems to have been mid-76 MY. I will try to get a series of photographs of each door and door jamb (since we have 2 240s, a 260 racecar with no original VIN plates left on it (bummer)) a 75 280, and a 78 280. Hopefully a series of identically framed photos from the same camera on the same day will help make this make sense. If I CAN I will try to get some pics like the first ones posted, with the "wrong" door set up behind the frame of the later car.. Not sure if my dad wants to let me DO that (thats a nice car) and we don't have any "later" doors dismounted from the car at the moment, so I can't do the later door/earlier jamb comparison. In short, the 1969-mid76 production cars have interchangeable doors. The Mid-76-78 cars have totally different ones. that is that, you can't change them over (without SERIOUS skills.)

Oh, megasquirt is no hodge-podge.. its been logging trouble free m iles in fuel0-injected, L-series powered Z-cars for well over ten years now. I would say that the average MS driver/owner has more problems with initial setup, but in the long run fewer problems owning the vehicle than someone with a stock setup.. but the stock setup is certainly an easier system to build into an early Z-car for a turbo machine. In the end, the stock system is the performance limitation over megasquirt.. MS will get you into the 400 horsepower range easily enough, with a well built intake system, a good sized turbocharger, a well selected cam, etc etc. Start doing serious cam work, intake manifold. etc etc etc, and MS could potentially run one of the top-power machines... if that machine was put together by the right person. But for ease of use, with a 250ish HP ceiling, to swap into a 240Z, the stock system is hard to beat. There are those who would prefer to use it, but they are more the "build it from scratch" type rather than the Frankensteinian, "cut two cars in half, and sew one together from the bits" type.

Uhm, no. Removing material is involved, yes, but only to the extent of matching the numbered piece lightest in weight of the set. Balancing implies no particular "removal of material" in a sense that is weighed other than for comparative purposes. The actual mass shed is utterly minimal in terms of reciprocating assembly.. It is so relatively minimal, in fact, that the effects that ARE felt from that tiny mass reduction are felt more in terms of camshaft drivetrain wear than in specific power output. In other words, that 0.5 grams total mass (or whatever, its been a LONG time since I read this thread through) will have more of an effect on making your timing chain last longer than it will have in giving you "that little bit less mass to spin around."

So... I was thinking about how neat its gonna be seeing it all with lines, and the vacuum fittings, and fully installed on the car, and stuff (sorry I am kinda getting obsessed here) and I started thinking, "hey, didn't we want some of those injector fuel plug/holddowns? What was the deal with those again?" Sooo.. I'm sure its the LAST thing on your mind, but have you given any thought to selling, and if so what a set of those plugs undrilled (rough even, I can do finish work easily enough) would cost?? Those things are super-cool in their own right. Its Cool Byproduct.. Kinda like the Apollo Project and Velcro, and Tang. EDIT Chatter be damned, its nice enough for me eight days a week. At least the slop is regular enough.

yes, but do you plan on stopping at 225-250 horsepower with the stock turbocharger?

One thing that can't be stressed enough is proper piston-to-head clearance at the quench pad. This is a situation requiring some technical description; I hope my phrasing is understandable. The P-90 combustion chamber's perimeter is not a full circle; instead, it is "peanut shaped" as many say. The section on the head that would have been in that circle, but instead is flat firing deck surface, is called the "quench pad." The detonation-resistant qualities of such a combustion chamber design are very dependent on the flat top piston coming very very VERY close to that quench pad.. This is from another thread: So make sure that if you go the shaved/shimmed P90 route, that you take that into consideration. Check the piston pin height and make sure you get a head gasket with the right thickness.

there are stickies in thies subforum, as well as the "turbo" and "fuel supply" (and maybe S30?) sub forums that will help if you read through thoroughly.. but basically, you would probably be OK with a stock hardware L28ET with an intercooler, some upgraded injectors, a manual boost controller, and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. A good exhaust/downpipe and you should be set, but don't take my word as gold on this!! You ask questions of great complexity, and I deliver a simple answer. There is much more to it to make sure you get good happy vroom in the end than I might make it sound