Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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have you checked the belt yet??
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Capital!!! must feel great.
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definitely worth it if it is a CLSD, check it out. A finned rear cover is a sure bet; it should look like the cylinder head of a lawnmower engine.
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3) Lack of Zinc in modern motor oils is a hot topic recently, especially for flat tappet cams. The domestic V-8’s with flat tappets are more susceptible to cam failure due to this vs the L-series with the V8’s need to “rotate†their lifters.
Interesting side note: I saw a lady getting a quart of motor oil at wal-mart tonight. Accel brand Motor oil for "engines in model year 1988 and older vehicles," SAE grade SF. ZDDP, anyone? A quick googling reveals that I am NOT the first to make this discovery (chevelle and corvette forums, as well as antique studebaker were noted by this reporter) and that opinions on using a product of such apparent quality (sarcasm, looks cheap) in one's engine abound. However, I wanted to mention it to somebody....
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The differential and the rear axles could both potentially be used, but it would require some work. The diff *should* be an LSD, but I may be mistaken in that. Generally speaking, I eyeball any 70s-80s RWD Nissan "just in case" to see if someone installed an LSD along the way.
Not much else, though. Not directly, anyhow.
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Have you been running your component checks at the ECU pinout? I am asking because a "bad computer" diagnosis and a "bad wiring" diagnosis are VERY easy to get switched around. Testing the component, AT the component, tests the component.. testing it thru the wire harness tests the harness as well.
Also, don't LIMIT yourself to the flowchart necessarily.. it IS a tool, and sometimes those older FSMs need to be used with imagination. Checking a FSM for your model year *might* prove to be worthwhile...
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There should be a flowchart in the bible. Follow the flowchart; it is the key to truly utilizing the manual to its fullest extent.
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Wow.. I've waited until the end to say anything, but I think this is great. I have always wanted to see someone use that "dead" space, and while I am sure I have seen it used in some capacity beyond wipers, I cannot recall. This build will definitely stick out in the memory.
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I've got a L28et in a M30.
I have to see this car...... thats been an idea of mine for QUITE some time. Send me a PM and lemme know when would be good for you, I am off on Mondays and Tuesdays and normally work afternoon/night shifts through the rest of the week, but I get short days..
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Heres a Z32 with an L28 in it: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599ss.htm
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Have the starter tested. Chances are its got worn brushes. The other starter should swap, even if it looks slightly different.
If you are handy, you can take the starter motor apart and insect it. Everything is fairly obvious inside; you may even ultimately decide to rebuild it yourself if you take this plunge.
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I think the 86 is the nicest looking year for the 300ZX, from 84 thru 96 TBH
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I never thought seeing that much dead weight, set that far in front of the front axles of an S30, could look so APPEALING.......
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tee hee, me too
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Heat the area with a torch.
Evan
BTW, seafoam deep creep does work better than PB blaster. I suspect your dealing with corrosion from dissimilar metals.
sea foam deep ceep is as much better than PB, as PB is to WD 40. In other words, Deep Creep makes PB Blaster look like garbage.
Torch is also helpful, heat thestud OR the block around it, but work from one to the other. Don't heat the broken bolt and the area of the block evenly; heat DIFFERENCe is what makes the bolt free up.
good luck, this is a PITA any way you cut it. You MIGHT try grinding flat spots on it to grip better with a vise-grip; a small pipe wrench or (if you are *really good*) a pair of channel locks might just do it too.
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QFT
aparently, meaning "quote for truth" or in other words, +1.
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and, is your next project another EV, is it a datsun, ???
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Subaru SVX: EJ-22 styled, 3.3 liter flat six, 230 NA hp. UNfortunately, only ever came stateside with a 4 speed slushbox, but it WAS AWD. and like, 4000 pounds. The engine was worthy, but the vehicle was a sad replacement for the XT in my mind.
Subarus rock.
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In case you hadn't realized yet, Cobra Tim there is one of my two brothers who own this ITS car
Thanks for the advice. The other brother (Chris is his name, and I am Shawn, for the record.) has since explained to me that this "slight rough spot" was felt with the head off of the engine, and he has read these responses and decided that on this particular head, his concern was a red herring. We DO have plenty of heads from which to pull towers, so if we need to replace them come assembly time, we will.
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I'm not sure how sharp they are here in west palm as I left an uncracked Z31 turbo exhaust manifold on top of the plenum of the car and it then thought better and it was still there two days later.
Sharper than that, usually
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My brothers are building an engine for their ITS car, and Chris (the elder) asked me to mine HybridZ and "talk to some of my engine buddies" to find an answer regarding (you guessed it) line boring the cam towers. They obviously want to avoid boring it if possible, but are more than willing to have it done if needs be.
I searched about for a thread or two I can recall coming up in recent months, but I think the boring questions were asked in a thread that had a title about something else.
The cam apparently spins freely, feels great... except for a single spot in the rotation. This is what he told me: "If you spin the cam with a bit of force, it continues for a rotation or two, but there is a rough spot. You can feel the rough spot, and after a rotation or two the rough spot halts the spin."
In other words, it spins wonderfully freely, but it has one rough spot. It can be spun beyond that spot.. and through my search I see a "two fingers" rule for spinning the cam; if two fingers can spin it, it is good. I do not know how much force it takes to get beyond that spot, but I imagine not much.
Is this irregularity itself enough to call for a line bore? Is it a matter of how much resistance the irregularity presents??
I am continuing my search through the evening, because I am fairly certain I can find my answer.... but I figured I would submit the question as plain as day, because this is an answer that should be more readily available through the search engine.
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So.....what kind of mileage do you get, and how much per gallon/liter
Short Answer is good enough, but not so good its gonna change the world.
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but don't forget to factor in the ratios in the lower end of the honda engine versus your theoretical V8.... You have to know what rod length and what stroke you are running to compare cams "apples to apples" at LEAST as much as you have to keep an eye on valve size... and valve size can be "compensated for" by tweaking the lift and profile of that lift. Air flow characteristics and how they impact the six or seven phases of ignition cycling are NOT as easy to "fudge" to compensate for...
I would be looking for a 1.5-1.6 4 banger that has as similar a bore/stroke/rod length as your V8, THEN analyze the valve size and camshaft specs of that engine, along with the intake ports.. In other words, start with common ground on the bottom end, then compare the top ends. You found a top end of a motor of similar displacement, but that could be an undersquare motor. A quick google suggests that the bore x stroke on the D16 is 75 x 90 mm. The r16 1600 OHV Datsun Roadster engine was 87.2 x 66.8mm. I may have overquoted the revs those engines see earlier (so I dunnot what you can do for valvetrain equipment) but the valve lift figures should transpose well...
I just spent a little time looking for a page I had bookmarked on my PC that had archaic datsun engine specs like that, but i cant find it tonight. My search DID confirm the bore/stroke figures above.
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2) Valve train stability/reliability. This is the part of the project that has me in prayer most. A valve train to see 9000+ RPM once in awhile, live between 3-8k regularly on the street! That’s asking quite a lot from a push-rod valve train.
Obviously you havent played too much with the old pushrod 1600 motors in the roadsters... I may be blowing smoke, but I am pretty sure the old girls used to run over 8 grand on the track all day long..
still reading the rest...
Edit:
I think a talk with TonyD about what he may have seen on pushrod Datsun Roadsters in Japan might be of benefit.. I am not sure what kind of bore/stroke combination they had but I know they had high RPM pushrod valvetrains, that could sustain the tumbles from four cylinder use (as opposed to the 90 degree V8 "light duty") and I will start grilling my uncle on how they pull this stuff off.
Huzzah, Subscribed!
Painless or not? (wiring harness)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I would get the engine with its harness, then install it into the vehicle, and begin removing the vehicle's wiring as needed. Then evaluate what level of wiring harness you need to purchase, and go from there.