Daeron

One thing you might be able to do is take an intake manifold from the engine in question, lop off the majority of it leaving the flange and a few inches of each runner, then get three weber flanges and weld them on. That way you can choose your own length.

Thermotime sensor??? Were any valves in particular, far from proper adjusment?? Pull the spark plugs and check each one to see what the burn in the engine is like. Clean them, run it a bit, then check them again. Unless one of the valves was way out of whack before you adjusted it, I am going to guess "completely random coincidence" on the timing of this problem... meaning I doubt it has a very obvious connection with the valve adjustment.

That. check the voltage with a multimeter; if it is over 14 the voltage regulator is bad.

bearings like that are sold by size and speed rating... scan the bearing for a numeric code, and call a local NAPA with that number. Alternatively, you could look up the bearing by part description on a site like http://www.rockautoparts.com or http://www.thepartsbin.com and see if you can find the number there. It may be available at any number of stores; there is no telling how many of them would know they had it though. Many industrial repair places would stock a supply of bearings that might include it, but the only way to know that would be by bearing number. Theoretically wheel bearings can be sourced the same way, but in practice is somewhat easier with bearings along the size of what you are talking about.

Get some pieces of thick rubber, or one big piece, and use that as a base for a platform on which your fuel pump is mounted. The stock Z fuel pump is mounted to a small "shelf" that is itself mounted to the car (or maybe the Z had a circular, coil-style clamp on a shelf, I can't recall right) but if you emulate this and use a piece of rubber as the connection between fuel pump and car, you isolate alot of the noise of the fuel pump. In addition, you can make a metal sound shield to go in between the rubber boot and the pump, if its still too noisy. The rubber obviously insulates any vibrations from transferring into the car, but the shield would help with sound waves being transmitted through the air. Every layer of interference you can get helps.

Holy Mackerel!! A diamond in the rough to say the least, that was a FIND!!!! now GO GET YOURSELF SOME TRIPLE WEBERS!!!!! Those flattop carbs are BOAT ANCHORS and webers are goodness incarnate. the interior is fine as it is edit This was a fourspeed right?

I am really enthusiastic and interested in the idea of homebrew metalcasting myself, but I lack the resources to build a furnace... I have some ideas that might become realizable if I were able to cast aluminum, and I can't get over the bug. Intake manifolds in particular, but there are many things I could do with a blast furnace... Paul, just find a foundry with someone who needs a motor built. Build him a motor, and ask him to forge you a crank. If you can get him interested in the crank for his own use, then so much the better! Barterdom!

No; we use Roadsters for those

itty bitty japanese girl. she just has all the right curves in all the right spots. thats why I love her so much.

I'm perfectly fine with you not using the jackstands.. more Z-car for me Morbid? Yes, but it's all in good humour

Im saying exactly that, BUT ALSO that it dooms the cylinders (master and slave, and really the lines as well) because my understanding is that it swells the seals a bit more than the brake fluid>motor oil situation. *I* did this in my car because I knew in due time it was all being replaced anyhow. Its a cheap, temporary fix that in the long run requires more work than its worth, unless you plan on doing it anyhow. It may or may not work for you; but if you think its worth a shot for you, i thought i would throw it out there.

Get the EFI bible and learn how to play with electronics. If this tuning is within your grasp, you won't need someone to tell you how to do it. Sorry, thats the reality of it though; BRAAP and I are talking about tweaking the angle the AFM sits at, replacing the CTS with a driver-variable potentiometer, installing a wideband O2 sensor, and dialing in your air/fuel mix on the fly by yourself. Ultimately you decide upon injector sizing/fuel pressure (stock or not.) Really, at this point, MS is probably cheaper, and DEFINITELY will return you far more power and fuel efficiency.

uhmmmmm.. I hesitate to say this, but since you are replacing the slave and possibly the lines ANYhow..... Power Steering Fluid added to the clutch master reservoir can help expand the seals a little bit and slow/stop your leak TEMPORARILY.. UNTIL the power steering fluid eventually finishes destroying those same seals. You WILL need to replace master, slave, and lines after doing this.. but I found myself in your shoes and decided it was a worthwhile tradeoff, since my master was leaking anyhow. Repeat: power steering fluid CAN temporarily (month, maybe as long as three months) save the clutch hydraulics, but ultimately it will destroy them utterly.

it should open up some power, if not in real HP numbers then in "butt dyno" figures just because the manifold/carbs have more flow potential.. the stock EFI tends to run out of guts around 5500 or so where SUs can handle an engine pulling all the way to redline easier... but thats a rough statement to help let you know something isnt tuned right in the carbs.

Tuning this car with the stock EFI can be done, with pleasant results, but its just barely a step up from tuning a carburetor system.. Its REALLY not that far removed from reprogramming a toilet mechanism. Megasquirt will do you for your power goals, and should tickle you pink for your mileage goals at the same time.

Wowsers!!!

A+++!!!

three words: triple weber carburetors.

the manifolds have many subtle differences, but they are all largely interchangeable. The most significant difference in any of them is whether or not the manifold was designed with an EGR system; being in california (and as late a model as you have) I highly suspect yours is an EGR style intake.. but judging from your sig, that makes about as much difference to you (for the time being at least) as having the right cigarette lighter for the car...

The motion shot make ME picture one of them in one of those bogus motivational posters... DATSUN We Are Driven

With a pair of carburetors the setup goes for 200 bucks?!?! Thats gotta be the cheapest fuel intake option for a Z there is then.....

I haven't read a single text on the subject; 99% of my learning either came from this forum or from links provided in this forum. This subject is one where a lack of knowledge is very common; that being the case, I feel justified repeating what I have learned. I believe it was John Coffey or DragonFly and those dyno experiences I allowed myself to set my mind in stone about this subject; my understanding was that a true, fully split twice pipes setup (with no collector) had been proven less desirable than a system that unified. Having no greater knowledge or experience myself.. I'm respectfully bowing out and reading the rest of this discussion.

This website was originally for people doing high-tech, high powered SBC swaps into their S30, Datsun 240/260/280Z no X. Obviously, it has expanded a great deal to embrace the entire performance oriented aspect of the Z-car crowd of all generations. (performance-oriented as opposed to stock/cherry/original preservationist ideals.) Points regarding the purchase of one of these model vehicles is a datum which is largely intended to be taken as a given to most members here. In other words, this is a site more geared to gurus of Z than to newbies of Z. Its not that your particular post was problematic or out of place; just don't expect the full support of the crowd here. The answers you seek are better found elsewhere. The majority of us are members of all the forums; I personally belong to zcar.com, classiczcars or whatever it is, and hybridZ, and I know many others who have dual citizenship as it were...

for the record

Heh, I am feeling a bit more verbose now than I was yesterday.. It has to do with exhaust pulse scavenging. Basically, each combustion wave helps pull the next wave along behind it. "Marrying" all six cylinders into one pipe establishes this scavenging as it should be; to leave both triplets of pipes "divorced" is to lose exhaust efficiency. "Backpressure," while not exactly a myth, is something of a red herring, as long as it is not excessively high. It is NOT the pri mary parameter to analyze when designing and sizing your exhaust system.