Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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For one thing, the turbo engines had dished pistons, about a 10cc dish.
I take this little engine calculator to have accurate specs, but I haven't confirmed this and would never presume any internal pieces I held in my hand matched an internet figure anyhow. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
According to them, the piston has slight negative deck height as well; according to that calculator, with a 1.0 mm HG and flat tops, the compression should be about 8.66. The P90 and P79 combustion chambers are the same, so essentially a flattop/p90 combo with stock pistons and headgasket should be right in line with a stock 280ZX factory compression.
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Have you done any of the tests related to your issues as outlined in the EFI bible yet?
I can't even keep track of what your problems are at this point, but to the best of my understanding you never finished taking care of your fueling issue.. the car ran acceptably, then you changed to the big TB and have had problems ever since. I'm not sure how changing a throttle body, and then having fuel issues, could somehow be solved but then lead to a sticking valve.
You are experiencing a miss? Plug that into the troubleshooting flowcharts in the EFI bible, and run the tests in the order they recommend. Verify your fuel pressure, (harbor freight sells cheap EFI fuel pressure testers) verify proper functioning of AFM, TPS, thermotime switch, AAR, etc etc, test your dropping resistor, take the oversized fuel injectors out of there. (If everything is running right, all they will do is cause you to run rich.. it is debatable whether this accurately compensates for the "more air" supposedly flowing through the larger throttle body. Remember, the runners on the stock EFI manifold are as great a restriction as the throttle body.) Test your dropping resistor, and verify that your injectors are getting signal at the proper time.
Replace all spark plugs and wires, probably wound thurt to change the cap and rotor too, but make sure you get good, bright blue spark coming out of the tip of your spark plugs. If you are giving it more fuel than it SHOULD get, that would overburden a weak spark and cause poor ignition.
If you suspect a sticking valve, then run a compression check; simple enough. That will tell you right off. If all six cylinders are approximately even in compression, you don't have a sticking valve.
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Just drove it to wal-mart and back... on the way back coming up to a red light I thought I'd lost my brakes... luckily I'm thinking it was just the booster. I'd never experienced manual brakes before, scared me shitless!
Joy, that's going to be pricey.
Step one is to check the check valve in the vacuum line from the manifold; thats what happened to mine.
Manual brakes aren't HORRIBLE to live with for a little while.. but a slight adaptation of your driving style is highly recommended for safety's sake. You have enough bodywork to do already, right?
Test the check valve; it is fairly obvious in the middle of the vacuum line. You should be able to suck air in the direction of the manifold, and changing direction of air flow should result in a clean open/cut of the passageway. Soaking it in some parts cleaner may yield acceptable results; I haven't gotten around to repairing mine since the car got disabled shortly after my check valve went bad.
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Go back and read the thread, and you'll find they're JDM for the most part.
.."for the most part," but what USDM vehicles might we find the Nissan TB you mentioned on? I cannot recall seeing it, but older 4-banger 200SXs aren't something I look at for throttle bodies, normally that is stanza's and 240SXs...
Could an L24 maxima have one?
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what US market cars might this nissan throttle body be found on? any chance we could recon some of this linkage setup you talk of, or is that a japan-only type gig?
My wheels are spinning furiously over something...I think I am having an idea.
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I cant imagine anyone selling a decently to well prepped 240Z chassis (read: very very VERY little, if any, rust/body work, but no engine) with tolerable interior for anything less than a grand, probably more like $1500.. but I cant see anyone getting away with charging much more than 3-4K unless its got a great paint job and an immaculate interior, and even then it may be pushing it..
Sound about right to anyone else?
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What about using dual-bore throttle bodies on each SU manifold?
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135192
I am thinking....
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I have to stress that all of my "knowledge" is second hand and abstract before I continue; this is all theory to me yet, not having owned and maintained a turbocharged car myself yet...
but the way I understand it, the wastegate is indexed to the vacuum signal in such a manner that when you have been on the throttle, and lift off, the wastegate is opened to allow the turbine to slow down, while simultaneously (actually, at a distinct point in this whole process) the recirc or BOV opens up to relieve excess positive intake pressure. And yes, a BOV and a BPV are the same thing, in terms of role played.
The way I read the diagrams, the air being vented by the BPVs in that diagram is tapped off from just before the intake manifold; in other words, cooled charge, and it is then re-routed to a spot immediately downstream of the turbo outlet. In other words, cool air is interrupted just before it enters the plenum and is then routed to just after the intake charge exits the turbo.
Please, if anyone can drop a +1 to confirm my statements it would be appreciated.. and if somehow I am misleading correct me, because I almost don't want to post any of this due to uncertainty on my part... That being said, I hope it helps. This is reality as I see it, at least
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oooo.. those are just old enough, AND just new enough... my DD/beater car is a POS 87 GL-10, and I love it to death.. but i would be equally happy with a 5 spd FWD impy from the mid 90s. AWD would be OK, but i want it for a DD/gas sipper.. really my DREAM soobie would be an XT, probably again just 4 cyl FWD 5 spd for economy. I have a Z for fun, and as awesome as AWD is (my dad had an AWD XT6 brand new in 89) I don't need it, I need a super cheap transporter. a 4 cylinder FWD XT would get some sort of standalone EMS and sequential injection, basically I would go gonzo on a quest for MPG if I could get the car... CD of 0.28 is incredible, and I fell in love with the car at an early age
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Everybody in Japan used the EFI pumps, if they needed more flow, the simply used more in parallell. I have seen as many as three stock 280ZXT Pumps in Paralell, each feeding their own OER 50 on drag S30's and S130's that were running in the 9's back in the mid-late 80's.
this is my kind of tuning
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if you re-read the post, it is actually referred to as a knockoff piece, but it looks to be of decent quality. I think the term used was "HKS-style." As noted here and in that thread, it comes with the mikuni/sk jet covers drilled with the pressure index hose running to them to pressurize the float bowls for on-boost enrichment.
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The engine itself, the longblock may well be stock, but that intake and exhaust most assuredly is not. The bumpers look like genuine 240Z, so I can't see any reason to suspect the year given for the car, but that intake is decidedly non factory. Looks to be a drawthrough turbo setup actually; is it a two barrel of four barrel carb?
In ANY case those are unusual pieces. They look a little smallish, but that might be misleading. If they are reasonably sized for performance potential, then they would certainly fetch a decent price for resale to an interested party.. or it might be interesting to you. Definitely would make for a different ride. As was mentioned the hood (or at least the vents in the hood) are from a later model 280Z.
Check frame rails, pull carpet.. are you an OLD subaru guy?? if so, treat it like an old GL you're thinking about picking up. Battery tray is a particular spot for rust, sometimes the spare tire area.. if the rust is dealt with, most of the rest is a simple process of education, decision, choice, and assembly. Depends on the price, of course, but that seems like a decent candidate car, PLUS it has that drawthrough turbo setup on it, which is really not common at all. It may be a piece of junque, but at the VERY least it is a SUPER cool piece of junque.. and if its decent sized it is most defeinitely NOT junque to the right people.
Edit
I forgot to mention that the stock cylinder head from that year should have the code E88 cast into it, on the spark plug side, at the bottom of the head.. between #4 and #5 cylinders i *think.* It may be slightly forward of that. The block casting for the 72 240 I cannot recall at the moment; nor can i recall exactly which side its on (thats what happens when you see more separate heads and blocks than assembled motors..) but it stands out, and is a one letter, two digit number (N-42 and P-54 are two later blocks, i think this was a P-30something maybe?) That should help you at least identify if they are original to the vehicle.. but for all anyone knows that motor could have had unspecified work done to it in the past. Ordinarily one would want to lower compression in a turbocharged engine, but this setup may well be low boost and fairly well suited to a mid-high comp application. At the very least, it SHOULD have a non-stock camshaft grind; whether it does or not can only be told through dis assembly and inspection, but I wouldn't let any "mysteries" about the engine make you shy away from this car.
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Just glanced quickly at the first link to see if I saw anything interesting... and saw this...
Hmmm.. just cut the radiator support out, weld in some gussets, and install a strut tower brace-like bar instead of the factory sheetmetal crossmember..... I'm sure this has been done before, but this is the first time I have seen it and had it trigger ideas in my head... hmmmmmm.
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Sounds like you needed to vent as much as get advice. I understand the tool issue, I tried to limit involvement with shop tools to something that would take your hands (heavy impact gun) but it appears you're exposing him on that far beyond what i suggested; but that was just to illustrate the point. Overall, what I intended to get across was that chances are, if you give him a little more credit than he deserves, it will start to pay off.
Overall it sounds like you've got a good idea where you're at with him though. Its a pain... but even good kids are a pain in your butt when they are your little brother.
I wish I could give you specific advice on the timing, but I haven't had to tinker with any of that personally yet, so my knowledge of that section of the engine is still rather abstract. You might want to take a peek at the sticky in this subforum about "degreeing a cam" on an L-6 for some pointers in that regard. Outside of that, the first and simplest resource I can think of would be in any of the FSM engine sections for a car that came with an L-6. There is a guy who posted a link to both all the S30 and S130 FSMs somewhere in those respective subforums as well.
good luck, and have a good fourth yourself!
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This advice is in relation to my belief that 99% of children are fine, yet 100% of rotten parents all think that they have the 1% of the bad children.
That is a GREAT way of stating things.
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You could take the injectors out, and set them up with a dropping resistor (or a DC power supply at the right voltage) and a fuel pump, and measure the flow of each and inspect the spray pattern as well...
You could even do it on the car, since the dropping resistor supplies the appropriate positive current with the relay energized and actuates the injector by grounding the circuit. I am not 110% positive what all you would need to do to guarantee that the ECU has +VDC going to them, but once you get that all you have to do is jump a wire to ground and it will spray, if there is fuel pressure.
I mention it because it could save you some money. (At least short term, if you want to replace them later.) I've got scads of stock NA injectors hanging around from a parts hoard, and "one of these days" I plan on building a wee rack to test, clean, and flow check each injector so that I can set up six, nice, matched injectors to go on my car, and if I can assemble any sets of 4 or 6, then also for sale (cheap, think $40-50 for six). Ideal? no, but better than nominal or unknown (the state of the injectors on my car now) or potentially mismatched, like what you are dealing with.
Heck, you are in St Augustine.. shipping between us should be almost nil, and should be quick. I had this plan, and it was low priority.. but if you would be interested in a set of 6 flow tested and verified matching, but used and unguaranteed injectors..... Well, if you are interested, just PM me and we could work out details. I wasn't in a rush to do any of this, and I am not trying to sell you something... but the offer is there.
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Learn how to lay fiberglass, then make it yourself and do us all proud!
Gollum, are you aware what an engineer would mean if he said "proud?" There is a technical definition that has nothing to do with pride, rather to do with positioning, and I will leave it cryptically at that point. Suffice it to say, THAT definition of "proud" was more like what I think it would make everyone here if that car were actually somehow to be brought into reality.
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I hope you don't mind advice, but I come from a large family, that has been family friends with several other large familes (and have had good close personal friends from every stripe of family, too...) so I wind up having lots of advice for situations like this.
You yourself did paint the portrait of the family, withe the middle aged father who will be in his 60s when the apparently somewhat precocious son is in his teens; it is an awkward situation to say the least.. but think about what this poor kid has to deal with, AND the fact that he, at four years of age, has far less mental programming and experience with which to judge right and wrong. (btw, it seemed from your post that this child IS your father's son, right? sorry to be pedantic, just double checking)
He needs a buddy dude.I don't want to put a huge burden on your shoulders, but like it or not you ARE in the big brother position, and it would probably make life alot easier in your household if you kinda took a little bit of that role on... BUT (this is the fun part) you get to do that at YOUR discretion. If he earned it, he gets it. Eventually he will be basketball playing age, baseball, riding bicycles.. trust me, there are HUNDREDS of things that are SO much more fun to do with "the big brother whos really a grownup (or almost)" and when that privilege is granted rarely, it is held that much more appreciated.
And man, no, it isn't easy for those of us who had baby brothers of full blood, who we love dearly. The four men on this planet I've wanted to throttle more heartily than anyone else, are the same four men whose backs I want against mine when the excrement hits the air-conditioning, But trust me, there are things boiling over in my head about each of them as i sit here and try to put myself in your shoes.. and I also know they've got dirt on ME.
This kid WILL eventually get some sort of dirt on you man.. even if it is nothing more than knowing you and your weaknesses... if he is THAT crafty, do you want him on your BAD side??
Show him how to put lugnuts on wheels.. and use an impact gun he cant hold by himself, turn the air down way low, and let him hit the trigger against a deadheaded lugnut. To a four year old, thats cooler than using a machinegun. You can have this guy wrapped around your little finger in NO time, and the accomplishment in that is threefold:
1. Willie is less of a bother to you (a chore, but not the aggravating THORN)
2. Life is better for Dad, and by extension, for you, stepmom, big sister, and yes, even little Willie.
3. YOU get to be the one to throw your stepmoms book about Bipolar disorder in the trash.
And regardless of ALL of the above... just remember Willie in the future, any time you get together with a woman yourself, and plan accordingly for pete's sake. For YOUR sake.
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Good luck man! Remember when you're breaking it in to vary the RPMS a lot, the way I do it is a good bit different than what most people here would recommend but I'll share if you wanna know it.
Are you a member of the "break it in by running it like a dog" school of thought that seems to be catching on???
If so, please PM me your experiences, I am interested in this concept and want to hear all I can hear about it, from as many people.. I have yet to hear a horror story about it, but frankly i haven't heard that much about it at ALL yet..
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Muchas gracias senor!
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well, I would mine through craigslist in a 100 mile radius, maybe even post a couple of wanted ads.. certainly wanted ads here and on any other forum you can find. you ARE in california, it shouldn't be THAT hard to find a spare engine..
Good luck man!
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I cannot believe how much difficulty I am having trying to find a picture of the fuse panel cover of my car.....
google cant find one, either on the web or on hybridZ, OR on zcar.com. The freely downloadable FSM is lacking the BE section, and I am lacking my haynes manual since it fell apart on me ages ago and wasn't much use anyhow.
Any help here? This sort of information should be something you get hit in the head with daily, like the firing order in my sig...
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Blue's TechTips electrical page has links to wiring diagrams for all S30 models.. as well as countless other great resources once you start winnowing through it.
Interlock Relay location, 75 280Z?
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Well, my primary problems lie in the fuel pump circuit, but alot more is going to have to be addressed.. carnage throughout my wiring harness. Wondrous.
In any case, this entire sub-system should be properly engineered out of my vehicle while I am at it. I still know nothing about how it functions, so.. basically..
Bump! Nobody out there with an inkling of insight on this particular subsystem?