Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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What is better than fixing the Porsche 914's 95hp problem?
SBC baby...
Driveshaft?!!?
We don't need no steeenking driveshaft!!!!
Wouldn't that make it a 918?
THAT is a 914 I would scoot around in!!! -
I hate pulling or installing a motor with anything less than two people total, and if you've got a crew of four or more its easy to keep two people constantly occupied, one as a constant standby/helper, and a fourth or more as a warm body in the background in case they are needed.
There is a reason I say that my family only needs* about an hour or so to switch longblocks, even if some accessories need to be swapped from one motor to another
The benny hill music IS appropriate, because it almost FEELS like that when you're changing a motor just before a race weekend AGAIN... and any stop-motion motor swap is going to look awkward like that *and I said "needs," its not that we get it done that quick each time... FAR from it. just, that we can if all goes well. An hour(ish) would be our record... I read that paragraph and thought it sounded like I was being a d!ck, so... disclaimer
I was just pointing out the advantage of a properly selected and numerous enough crew. -
These things are SCREAMING to be put on an all-out, max effort NA stroker....
OR on something like TonyD's Bonneville engine (2.0 liter crankshaft, 9500rpm.. just youtube search "9500 shiftpoint")
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Bitchin! allright, now pay your dues and GO GET US SOME PHOTOGRAPHS!!!
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The "twice pipes" exhaust setup does, in fact, suffer from a lack of proper exhaust pulse scavenging. At least, that is "conventional wisdom" when speaking in abstract theory; there are BOUND to be setups with Brand A twice pipes that would outperform brand B six into one... but the rule of thumb is that without having a collector somewhere you DO lose some scavenging.
The term for the phenomenon is the Helmholtz effect, and I am probably mis spelling that. Honestly, you found a way to describe what you were talking about in FAR fewer words than I could have done
And also, it sounds like you and careless were both indeed talking about virtually the same thing regarding exhaust valve clearances.
See?? You already know more thank you think you do
For the record, MSA sells a twice pipes system (I own one but haven't installed it yet) that runs from a 2.5" collector/Y-pipe (the one with the system fits right onto the MSA 3->2 headers) and then splits into two, 2 or 2 1/4" pipes all the way back, side by side. From what I have gathered (read: all internet hearsay) this type of design should preserve the "proper" exhaust pulse scavenging effect that a straight, "(3 cylinders into one exhaust pipe) times two" exhaust system would lose. I am not 100% positive on the piping size, either; it may be a bit larger. If the main pipes are larger, I will say for a certainty that it would be an easy affair for a competent welder or exhaust shop to modify it to use a 3" collector rather than what it comes with.
Sorry my recollection on the sizes is so poor; its been a while since I actually laid eyes on my exhaust, but that will all change soon enough.
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Hey, now!!!
I am in LOVE with the typeface of the stock gauges. (I know, I know, call me lame for it; 50% of my love for this car is sentimental and little things like that matter. I don't even like sitting down in a 77/78 Z because the typeface is different.. 240/260/early 280 i don't care about the differences inside... but the late 280 just doesn't FEEL right)
BUT, that is an AWESOME way to get major better functionality! I really like the way you kept the install so clean!
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not sure what his plans for them are, whether he is just doing skins for himself, or whole doors, or selling anything, or what, but monkeyt88 has been working on a pair of doors for fiberglass molds for a little while now....
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It was creepy seeing the car rotate just a tiny tiny bit as you lifted it.. neat vid though, thanks!
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I know I was able to, today, remove a seven fuse maxi fuse block from a ~94 cadillac deville, along with the wires for that block, to the tune of about 2 feet in length.
Almost all GM products have used maxi fuses for 10+ years (apparently) so they are ALL over the junkyard.
It may be a rudimentary and temporary solution, but its cheaper than getting three 2 fuse blocks, and if theres a JY in your town then they should have em. The Caddy was the first GM I looked at that had a maxi fuse block that was easy to dis-integrate from the main relay/fuse gang block. I know an Impala, and a Sunfire are useless b/c they are totally molded into the plastic housing of the rest of the fuse panel.
hope this helps!
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If you need some bits and pieces to put together a more typical fuel injection system, my uncle has a bunch of stock intake manifolds and fuel rails, and we're only a few hundred miles down I-95, so shipping shouldn't be too awful..
Personally I would LOVE to see you find a practical way to stick with the turbo tom setup. I am more of an EFI type person myself, but even if you wind up finding a carburetor for it, with good quality spark control real power is not incredibly difficult to achieve.
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Was he supposed to drive 200 miles with the stuff in the oil? I thought it was idle and drain pretty much.
I've always run a few hundred miles with any sort of oil treatment.. but I do them rarely. The typical usage of the stuff in oil (people use a quart of ATF for similar purposes) at my subaru forum (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org) is about 3-500 miles, then drain..
I'm no authority, to say the least. I just wanted to relate my experience and my observation of others' experiences.
EDIT
I was actually editing my original post and got interrupted, never went back to change what I said. I typed all that up, posted it... then realized I had concentrated on seafoam in an FI vehicle and not a carburetted one.
With carbureted cars, the effects would be similar, except obviously you would be cleaning jets and float bowls and floats, etc (carb internals) instead of simply injector nozzles.
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I read somewhrere that you put 1/3 - 1/2 in the intake, 1/3 into the fuel tank, and whatever is left in the engine crankcase oil.
I have used it as Redneck says to preserve or "loosen up" gummed up fuel system parts. It has worked to "free up" old lawn equipment carbys and basket case car fuel systems. But I have never noticed any improvement when using it through a vac line in the intakes of several cars. It only helps to free up the varnished lawn equipment.
Keep in mind that people will imagine all sorts of improvements and swear that they exist. I have tried it and I can tell you that you won't convince me without an engine dyno.
Seafoam is GREAT stuff.
I universally recommend using it in fuel tanks and through vacuum lines for ANY vehicle.
However, I DO have a friend with an '05 SRT-4, who added the requisite 1/3 bottle to his engine oil, which was synthetic. He drained it after a couple hundred miles (he swears it shouldn't have been as much as 500) and replaced with pure synthetic.. and about 6-8K later (halfway through his NEXT oil change) he heard a knock in his engine. He said the oil light came on briefly, and he checked his oil and he was low two quarts. Never had problems with losing oil before, 33K miles on the motor. His engine spun a rod bearing.
I make a rule of ALWAYS saying that it is a definite risk adding anything to your motor oil that isn't more motor oil. I have run seafoam in my own crankcase of my subaru twice with no problems, and have known FAR more people to use seafoam in their oil without problems than otherwise. In fact, my above story (which may or may not be directly linked to the use of seafoam) is the only "evidence" I have to knock the idea.. but I wanted to relate the tale.
The thing to remember about seafoam is that it is a cleaning agent, designed to remove accumulated debris from internal areas in the engine which should not be grimed up. The three ways of using it all function differently.
When it is added to the fuel tank, it goes through your pump and rail, through each injector, and helps to clean that area of any buildup of sediments or minerals that might occur. I know that the first time I ran SeaFoam throu the gas tank in my 280Z (also did the vacuum thing at the same time) I gained about 10-20% fuel economy!!! MAJOR difference!! Subsequent vacuum applications (as well as the odd gas tank treatment) NEVER realized such a difference for me.
When it is sucked into the intake manifold through vacuum pressure, it bathes the entire air intake and exhaust tract, from plenum, thru runners, through the intake port, around the intake valve, cleans the combustion chamber itself (piston crown and underside of cylinder head), exhaust valve and port (far less importance.) The reason you shut the vehicle off for 5-15 minutes (I ALWAYS let it sit longer than label directions) is to let the solution soak into your crud in all of these spots. When you restart, as has been mentioned above, it all burns away. No mosquitoes tonight!!!!!!
When added to the oil, it helps remove varnishing stains, it can help clean up sticky, "ticking" hydraulic lifters, and just generally cleans the entire crankcase.
My point is that SeaFoam is NOT a "performance additive" or anything of that sort.. it is not designed to gain horsepower, but rather to regain lost power and efficiency.
Has anyone else got any horror stories to tell about seafoam in the oil, or seafoam used with synthetic oil? My buddy sure feels lonely with his blowed-up SRT engine.....
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First off, welcome to HybridZ!
The stock intake manifold is, as you noticed a *bit* on the smallish side. The runners are the primary impedance to flow, and they can only be hogged out so much; in carburetor terms, the choice is between triple sidedrafts of a 40mm choke, or a 44 mm choke. (Some may go larger, but 44s are generally agreed to be plenty for good ooomph) The stock FI intake manifold runners are something on the order of 37-39mm MAX diameter, so they are smaller than the SMALL carbs that would be installed on the same engine.
I must confess I am not at all familiar with the Holley system you mention.. A quick googling shows it to be essentially a Holley-carb style throttle body/injector setup... so I have no idea how well it would work with the turbotom system, but the only one I saw on holley's website was a 2 barrel rated up to 275 horse?
What kind of engine management does this pro-jection system use, a proprietary holley box? How capable is the control for it?? Without the ability to tune to very specific conditions, your maximum power will be much lower. Achieving HP from a turbo L-series is all about a high degree of engine control. Not necessarily F1 high-tech, but something quicker than the 1975 ECU components could ever be. A modern computer system allows you to skate much closer to the edge of disaster without crossing that edge, which yields more power. To me, the question is one of how capable the computer is, or possibly using an aftermarket EMS such as megasquirt with your TB hardware.
..and I hate to sound like a chump, but it helps the clarity of your posts if you hit "enter" a few times to separate different thoughts. Its more to make it easier to read for everyone who might be out there to help you than anything else.
Got any photos of your setup that you can post??? I'm sure people want to see it
Good luck and happy HybridZing!
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yah, but all the plates listed gross horsepower, thats 170 flywheel horsepower and the 130 hp figure is the RWHP number. Its all in the wiki, that was a great answer.
EDIT
It USED to be in the wiki! IIRC there was a small subsection in the article that pointed out the engine plate with the 170 hp rating and explained the confusion that always causes... but I just skimmed the relevant wikipedia articles (the one linked, and S30, and Z-car) and didn't see the section I thought I remembered.
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make sure you put #1 at the right spot...
from another thread:
This has been ask and answered many times......but I'll be nice. Print this picture and post it where you need it.You also need to make sure that the rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder position, when the #1 cylinder is at or near TDC on its compression stroke. The easiest way might be to get a socket large enough to put on the crank pulley bolt, remove the #1 spark plug, and rotate the engine by hand until you can feel air being pushed out of the spark plug hole... this indicates that cylinder is on its compression stroke. Continue rotating (slowly) until you can see or feel the piston reach TDC, and then look at where your rotor is pointing. The distributor CAN be installed improperly, and run perfectly fine... but in that situation, #1 cylinder is NOT the forwardmost plug on the cap.
By the way, not to guilt trip you.. but I found out about the potential "improper" (abnromal is a better word) dizzy installation through a very simple search, limited to the L6 engine sub forum, of the term "firing order."
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132795&highlight=firing+order
http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=2072572
, its whats for dinner! -
Am I wrong in thinking that this block failure is a good sign?
I see these pinholes as a sign that the "weak point" in the engine as a whole is not in your cylinder head, which would be a good thing. Granted, this means that once you get a solid bottom end under it this weak point is eliminated and the next weakest point falls into place, whatever that may be... but like I said, am I on-track in thinking of this failure in such a positive light, or is it more likely just a random, unpredictable failure of the shortblock in a way that shows nothing of the durability of the cylinder head?
What I am saying is that any problem, even your camshaft issues, that ISN'T directly attributed to your young frankenstein head ("It's from a man called Abby Normal!") seems to me to be good indications for the head project itself.
I have to thank you for being so public with this project, man. It is awesome to see the differences between the project during the build phase, and now your progress through the first few months of running... because something like this isn't going to be "finished" for three, four, ten, who knows how many years of ownership. You are only one man, and I am sure that the room for research and development of an L-block with a head like what you've built (and others conceived and are trying to build) is IMMENSE; far more than you can figure out in a whole lifetime of dedicated driving, modding, tuning, and researching.. so in a way, until the head is scrapped, this project is never finished.
Have you considered trying this head on a smaller-displacement engine for higher revs? Not that I am suggesting you rebuild your block now to less than 3.1, but I am curious how it would effect other shortblock configurations as well. I am picturing tonyd's bonneville motor with a head like this and wondering what 9500 RPM would sound like... PM me if you have even thought about it, because I have some shortblock ideas that might prove interesting, and for originality's sake I don't want to talk too loudly about my ideas, lest someone else build my block before I get a chance to.
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I don't know if it's going to run or not but I love the way it looks.
THIS is an ITB setup that should have some appeal to those guys who stick with webers or mikuni/solexes just for the authentic feel/sound/street cred..... (a concept I TOTALLY understand and won't ever hassle, even though EFI is in my mind a simple reality nowadays..)
I cannot WAIT to see this intake bolted to a longblock!!!!
MUCH admiration and envy!!
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awesomeness on a stick, thanks.
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Panzer, could you do me a quick favor??? a few weeks ago I tried looking for a picture of the mikuni logo, as molded onto the jet covers of the carbs, via google image search and couldn't for the life of me find one. The Mikue logo doesn't look the same to me, as the typeface embossed on the carb istelf.. I was wondering if you could snap me a high res image of JUST the jet cover (the spot in between the throats there, where it says MIKUNI and email it to me? shawnmcarey at gmail dot com, thanks in advance.
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I did a bit of googling. and found details of 44mm and 48mm mikunis for triple carb setups on Z cars, using a bit of maths, one 44mm is slightly less than two 32mm. and looking on trademe it looks like theres plenty of Mikuni 34mm and 36mm carbs available secondhand.
I think I'll have a talk to the guy and see if he can score me a set of 6 Mikuni 36mm carbs
Beerman, while googling, I saw the mini apparantly used twin SU carbs for the 1100 engine, 6 mini carbs might work as well.
the "40/44" is the bore of the choke, which is exactly the same figure as the "36."
Basically, you are not recognizing that the 40 or 44 is multiplied by six, even though it is technically only three carburetors. Six 36mm bike carbs < three 40mm double-choke solex/mikuni/weber DCOE
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hey, I called it! (cool points for me)
Sucks about that, but at least its easy work to replace. bent shift forks are a different order of repair from a clutch disc replacement.
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"......what's 2mm?"
about sixteen ♥♥♥♥-hairs.
perfect, it was censored. I was afraid it was a little too far, but I think anyone can infer what the little hearts stand for, and they aren't over the line at all.
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Take a multimeter, set it to DC voltage, put the ground probe on the ground terminal of the battery, and take the hot probe and touch the fuel rail, the intake manifold, any piece of metal that might somehow be connecting to the injector.. even if in a convoluted way. If you find any voltage registering like this, then something somewhere is shorting out.
In the meantime, you have gone from a poor/will not run situation, and installed LARGER injectors (MORE fuel) when you were already apparently running rich (did you ever check to see if the spark plugs were wet?) and you decided to fix this by installing LARGER injectors than what the ECU expects to be there, thus delivering MORE fuel than the system would have been before you "fixed" it. So, it runs richer than it did before?
Please, verify that the AFM output signal is within range and properly calibrated, that the throttle position switch is located properly, and that the coolant temperature sensor is being read right. These three tests take an hour for the most inexperienced novice to figure out how to do and complete, and twenty bucks says it finds your problem.
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I just got back from a walk thru the junkyard, and I noticed a fairly new maxima there.. I didn't catch the EXACT year but it may well have been this side of 2000. Now I am wishing I HAD checked the model year, because I cannot find a picture of what I saw.. but the intake manifold had a double bodied TB on the driver side front wheel. I saw it and immediately wanted two more, because hey.. thats individual butterflies!!!!
What are the odds I could actually DO something like that?? I was picturing trying a weber manifold first, and checking spacing to that, but if need be runners and a flange could be parted together....
Does anyone happen to know the diameter of the TB's I am talking about? The way I figure, if two of them are enough flow for what was probably a VQ30 or at LEAST a VG-D, then six should be ample for at least 400 horse on an L-series...
OTM, you listening? I am also kinda picturing your ITB concept with your VH45, here, too.....
EDIT I found a couple pics..
Its in the extreme upper left corner in this first pic
And obviously these photos are on a turbo'd car.. I saw at LEAST one or two other vehicles with this type of TB out there, so its probably a VG thing and not a VQ.. but I dunno!
Am I just kidding myself, or have I made a discovery that nobody has stumbled across yet?
THAT is a 914 I would scoot around in!!!
The benny hill music IS appropriate, because it almost FEELS like that when you're changing a motor just before a race weekend AGAIN... and any stop-motion motor swap is going to look awkward like that 
, its whats for dinner!
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Admins, they are so clever!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
okay, i must confess i fail to use the shift key too often.
And, I bait the Administrators once in a while, too....
What about your user name, there, BRAAP? Hmm? no defense on that front?
