Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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I am about to go testing and picking apart my electrical system, which is step two of the resurrection of my car. Step one was splicing in a fusible link block to replace the burnt wires, and I am fairly confident that I have achieved that with solid results. Now, whenever I have a battery connected to my car, the right turn signal is solid on, and the headlight circuit is fully energized and functional. Regardless of key position.
Obviously the ignition switch gets tested first, but practically EVERYTHING in the circuit seems to be intricately tied to the "interlock relay" and I cannot, for the life of me, find a location for this malfeasant unit in the @#$*@#ing book.
I want to eliminate this pesky, Nader-gratifying subsystem from the vehicle entirely, since I plan on relaying my starter function ANYhow, fully independent of the ignition switch other than for a starting signal.
Any help finding this box, and any insight into how one might go about removing it without simply installing an aftermarket wiring harness, would be appreciated. I have my wiring diagrams handy, and will almost certainly find a way to plow though it on my own.. but home re-engineering projects (especially of an electrical nature) are best approached with an abundance of knowledge, not a dearth.
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http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf
Right click, choose "save as," and read it.
Read the first section all the way through, the start over and read it a second time. If you are feeling spunky about graduating from Datsun EFI School cum laude, then read through each diagnostic check and then go back and read the entire first section a third time.
Then, when you have a problem, go read the relevant portions of the first section, and perform the relevant tests according to the flow charts.
Every... Single.... Problem... that your fuel-injected L28 could possibly have, is covered in there, more accurately than you could even hope for from HybridZ. Granted, wiring problems get difficult to track down.. but if you pay attention while you read, you realize that ALL testing of any components is supposed to be done at the ECU plug, and not at the component. Checking a component at the ECU plug not only checks that the component (AFM, TPS, whatever) is functioning right, but it also tests the wiring at the same time.
Download it. Print it. Staple each page to the ceiling above your bed so the information trickles down into your brain by osmosis and haunts your dreams. (Stay AWAY FROM ME, EGR MONSTER!!!!!
) Most of this information is also in the Factory Service Manuals, available for download here.Please be kind enough to utilize these resources to the fullest before asking questions of the general HybridZ populace; the purpose of this community is primarily performance oriented, and stock running questions get tiresome to answer over and over again. If you DO have the "newbie question" then having researched your problem (read: being able to say "I read the EFI bible but....") will GREATLY increase YOUR odds of getting a helpful answer.
Go now, in Peace, to Wrench and Tune the Z.
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thermotime switch.
find the EFI bible. It answers all your questions.
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Yah, the color combination is beautiful... It really works with everything else to combine vintage looks with modern looks in a way that maintains the old feel of the interior, but at the same time looks like it just rolled off of a showroom floor.
Any plans for custom door panels? if SOOO.... then I know someone who wouldn't mind your old ones
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You do not need a smooth, easy transition for air out of your engine bay like you need smooth, easy transitions into your intake port.
The problem with lift and air under the hood is one of high pressure. Provide that higher pressure air with a vent-hole to a lower-pressure area, and it will move around whatever seems to be in the way... and with less pressure under the hood, it will make it easier for fresh, cool air to flow through the radiator.
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First off, let me make it clear to you that I am most assuredly NOT a fan (aesthetically speaking, anyhow) of the "wide-body" look on a Z.
Secondly, your wide-body kit looks DAAAMN good.
x a billion.Thirdly, and I am no expert.. but my impression on the air dam aerodynamically speaking, is all fantastic.. I cannot recall right now if a similarly shaped airdam/flare combination was actually tested, but I would say that to start dickering around with the shape you have now, based on info learned from other shapes, MIGHT be fumbling around in the dark. In other words, I would say that what is already on the car is such a departure from what was tested, that to implement ideas that seemed to work well according to the aero tests on it, may be an exercise in a vacuum of knowledge.
More photos please!
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You're only using one turbo?
Are you sure its big enough?
okay seriously, though... where did you get that pic of the turbo'd V8Z? whose car is that?? where can i see more????
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Tell your friend to keep his hands off the dikes.
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subaru EA81 and EA82 as well (80s 1.8 OHC and OHV)
NGK BPR 6ES-11 is one of my oldest friends......
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I don't understand why this is an issue.
The Brake/Tail light bulb is a dual filament bulb.
Install slightly less than half of your LEDs powered by the Tail light wire.
Install slightly more than half your LEDs powered by the Brake light wire.
KISS, right?
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what are you charging someone for one of thse cleaned up manifolds?? We have a whole PILE of EFI manifolds that I could easily do this to rather than sending them off for 40 cents a pound (IF we get all other metal out of it first..)
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N42 heads are all the same, yes. Same valve guides, same valves, possibly cam differences is all I can think of, and I can't answer that off the top of my head.
The heads themselves are the same, though... there is no mystery like "early E88 versus later E88" or "P90a with solid lifters" or anything like that. All dquare exhaust ports, same combustion chambers, etc.
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One of the primary differences in the various SU manifolds is the shape and aspects of the walls that divide the single channel first into two, then one of those channels dividing into two more.
The shapes inside of the manifold are slightly different. My point is, the "10 hp" claim is based on more than sheer size.
Trust me, when I get to it, I will add a TON of data to this post. I want to do the same thing you are doing, and I have about 12 EFI manifolds and i dont even know how many SU manifolds (at least 3 or 4 i can easily get my hands on, likely FAR more.)
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okay well,, im sticking my foot out on this one, but couldn't you simply re-ring the engine? Pull it, put it on a stand, pull the oilpan, remove that piston and con rod, and put new rings on it?
I mean, sure, its hackneyed.. but it would repair your car....
Otherwise, find a Junkyard. Chances are about even on finding a $1-200 engine here versus a local junkyard... unless Northern California has gotten as bad as South Florida has with these cars.
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sounds like some magical freakin stuff.
TonyD....
Are you for real??
You sure you aren't some twisted sort of computer program, being run from the scanned memories of Mr K, Pete Brock, Bob Sharp, and Paul Newman???
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God, I hope I don't muddy the waters here.
I've learned a good deal about BOV vs Bypass valves, and how they work in tandem with the wastegate, in recent months, and cleared up a few misconceptions *I* had had, that it appears may be affecting you as well. SO, I will go ahead and try to explain since I feel like your mis-understanding is similar to what I had held... I hate talking about a subject I understand only abstractly like this (no real turbo exp. to speak of here) but here it goes.
The short version is, your wastegate allows exhaust gasses to bypass the impeller wheel. When the wastegate opens up, the turbo loses the force spinning it and generates less pressure. The Bypass valve (whether it is a recirculating type or a blow-off type) eliminates excess pressure on the charge side that has already BEEN built up by the compressor wheel. The wastegate is step 1, and then the bypass valve is step two.
Bishopsrock, I am not entirely certain why the stock routing is the way it is... but it appears to me, from the diagram, that the "pick-up" for the BPV air circuit actually comes off the piping nearer to the manifold inlet, then gets routed down there to those two bypass valves mounted on that Y shaped pipe you picture. It gets popped off by one or both valves, then runs out into that Y-pipe, into the tube crossing underneath the IC, and thence back into the turbos, if I am not mistaken. In other words, the air actually moves down thru some tubes, from near your manifold inlet somewhere (look at the diagram, i've never seen a skyline) down to the two BPVs, then into the Y.. the intercooler is only involved b/c the air has in fact already gone thru it. I suspect that they did it the way they did to vent cooled air, straight back into the outlet of the turbo where the air is hottest, rather than venting warmer air there. Plus, proximity to the throttle plate in the point where your blow-off occurs, is good, when you are trying to eliminate the pressure hammer caused by closing the throttle abruptly after accelrating on boost.
Where are you recirculating to? you said "vent back into the MAF," by that you don't mean anywhere in front of the hotwire in the MAF, do you?? If so, then that air is being metered, then dumped to before the meter, and then being metered again.. essentially, the same situation as if the bypass valve was an atmospheric blow-off valve.
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:iospalo:Let's go digging.... bring it out, and take it back in... except I want it about FORTY degrees, COOLER. (Tool reference, great band)
So I was turning these questions over again in my mind, and I want to revisit this thread.
Despite hearing others say that converting their Z's AC to R-134a seems sufficient for them... I just don't know. 90% of the reason I want an AC is to be able to get in the car after, say, being out in the sun at the beach or fishing, and just turn it on full blast and get a smack of air at 32 degrees fahrenheit in the face. (Well, not literally that cold, but you get the picture..) So whatever, I will make up my mind on the refrigerant being used....
Anyhow, in reviewing the thread, I realized that I had missed my original thrust in the post by getting sidetracked into the possibilities of retrofitting newer components into the vehicle. My big question originally is.. What are the odds that I can go to the car, pull a vacuum, and have it hold? Am I probably looking at replacing many seals and O rings simply because the system has been, sealed to the best of my knowledge, but simply at atmospheric pressure for so long? (I've had her for 8 years now and it was dormant LONG before I got it.)
I understand that the receiver/dryer almost certainly has to be changed because it is a wear item.. but seriously, how would I proceed in reviving the system? Should I just get my brother to pull a vacuum on the system, and if it holds for a few days, buy a new receiver/dryer, and get some R-12? Or should I replace a few easy-to-reach seals first, should I check the oil?
I've been reading the A/C section of the 76 FSM I have handy... Also comparing to the 74 on my PC b/c the car is a 75 and the 75 FSM I have in PDF is missing the AC chapter. So I understand most of the procedures and what is involved.. I am simply not yet confident that I understand everything that I may run into. When I reached the section on compressor overhaul I started skimming, and only noticed a few seals involved..
It just seems too good to be true to think that I might be able to get by with simply replacing the dryer, buying some Freon, and charging it up. Is this THAT outrageous a possibility, and if so, what is most likely to be problematic?
TTBOMK, the answers are thus: (given that the receiver/dryer needs to be changed)
1. Compressor shaft seal
2. A few random O-rings like line seals and silencer O rings that are easy enough to get at
3. Evaporator Expansion valve
Beyond that, as long as my lines themselves, and the two coils (condenser and evap) are intact... it should just go, right?
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I ran a search on "air conditioning" and for some reason this thread came up first.. so I may as well update it with the news that I have patched in a Maxi-Fuse panel out of a 94 Caddy Deville into the car, but thus far have had zero success in finding my short. Must work on it more tomorrow; I ran out of daylight the other day.
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Z-ya and I had that idea about exactly at the same time.. he made a cryptic remark to a wacky intake manifold idea, and I PM'ed him with a guess right off the hip. I *think* we both may have been inspired by the same comments from TonyD.
Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to play with anything yet, but I have immensely enjoyed his manifold porn
I also have access to several stock manifolds, both EFI and SU manifolds but am more familiar with my stock of EFIs... I haven't gotten around to it yet because I am not spending much time up at the family shop, but a thorough inspection of all the differences in the manifolds I have is on my "to-do" list, largely for just this purpose.
I am mentally busying myself (have been all day) throwing ideas around for a plenum/divider of sorts for this setup, and pondering all day what could be done to improve everything, and where... My impression is that it shouldn't be very difficult to build a rather compact plenum box that would evenly and equally distribute things into the throttle bodies, and then to work some more on the manifold itself to get it ideal. I may end up cutting a set in half along the horizontal plane and do some serious re-working, basically using the manifold as stock........
...but thats all ideas batted around thus far. I won't see fruition on any of this for a long time, so I hate to talk about my ideas out in the open lest someone else build my car before I get to.
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does the compression in the bad cylinder come up when you add oil to the cylinder? If not, your problem isn't rings, its either a bad headgasket, or a sticking or burnt valve.
I may be missing a few other possibilities, but I wanted to make sure you realize a single, dry compression test showing low numbers on one cylinder does not, by itself, diagnose anything.
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whoa I missed this post entirely, just read a reference to it in another thread and came hunting.
Still need help? I'm under the hood of my 75 every day for a week now so I can eyeball whatever you need. I'll check tomorrow on this question, just bump it so I don't forget.
Edit
Forgot to mention I have a 75 as well.
The bonus wire on the alt went to a condenser to minimize radio noise.
I *think* that the ceramic block gets all four of those wires, and basically joins each pair in that photo, along with the wiring to the coil, but its been a LOOONG time since I even looked at my ignition (car's been sidelined for almost four years) so I may be making a gross mistake in all my recollection. The other dizzy wire with the condenser just needs to be bolted down to a ground IIRC, and I will look for that black wire with a ring terminal when I look to confirm my thoughts on the ceramic isolator block.
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Have you found the EFI bible yet?
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm
I think that page also has step by step instructions on re-calibrating an AFM to stock specs.
You *need* to test the AFM for proper output range.. it is as simple as checking resistance versus a chart at various openings, just like adjusting a potentiometer-type throttle position sensor. When the TPS on the L-EFI is unplugged, the computer simply reads that as "cruise" instead of "WOT" or "Idle." A better test to "lean it out" would be to short the two wires that complete the "idle" circuit to falsely cut into ECU idle enrichment levels, at real speeds. Don't know how catastrophic this could be, but as long as RPMs are kept low and you don't go drag racing with a jumper like this installed you shouldn't grenade any pistons.
The ECU is virtually a pass/fail device. There is a sequence of tests to run upon diagnosis of a rich condition, in the EFI bible. Run them. You could possibly have a sticking injector, malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator as mentioned above, maybe even something wild like a dropping resistor outputting slightly high voltage and opening the injectors too far, who knows. The EFI bible runs through the process of pinpointing where the error lies.
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I looked through the whole thread, as well as your photo gallery, and couldn't find a picture to answer my question, so I figured I would just ask here.
In the straight CNC cut piece, it appears that your vacuum signal channels were still isolated from the plenum and airhorns. How did you wind up opening them up to intake flow? It seemed like you mentioned a desire to pick your vacuum signal off of each runner individually, rather than from the plenum. Did you drill holes after the fact, before you welded the channel covers on?
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Five easy steps to building an L-series engine.
1. Build your cylinder head, whichever casting you choose and whatever work is done to it, and make sure you have enough valve and valve spring.
2. Select your pistons to be an appropriate complement to your cylinder head for combustion chamber shape and size (read: quench and compression.)
3. Select a camshaft based on your cylinder head, and compression/combustion decisions above.
4. Design engine control, fuel, and ignition appropriate to power goals
5. Assemble bottom end to match all of the above.
) Most of this information is also in the Factory Service Manuals, available for download 
x a billion.
Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Last time I was tested, I rated "above average" myself...