Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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Uh.. I can name at least one attribute the L-28 has over ALL 4 cylinders that don’t spin over 10,000 RPM, (not really a good excuse to keep the 6 for your application. The question was raised and I was able to muster but only one answer..), and that one attribute the L-6 has over the 4 cylinder is the exhaust note. With the right mufflers, (glass packs sound wonderful, no matter how wrong they are), the 6 cylinder has an exhaust note that is oh so sweet. Refined, smooth, with a hint of aggression. 4 cylinders spinning above 10,000 RPM sound oh so sweet as well, but typical street 4's up to 7k, the exhaust note really doesn’t stir the soul as much.
BRAAAP…BRAAAAAAAAAAAP…..BRAAAAAAAAaaaaaa……….
that post almost brought a tear to my eye.
thank you, BRAAP. That's always been my word to describe it, and you echoed my thoughts (at least regarding the six) verbatim.
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I will reply in the form of an epilogue:
Analog multimeters are always best for testing devices such as the AFM on the early Z FI.. sometimes digital meters (even the best ones) can miss a bad spot in the potentiometer, that will always flicker a cheap analog needle.
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According to TonyD, one of the only members that has any really longtime experience with forced induction webers, the pressure in the float bowl need to be higher than the plenum side or the carbs will lean out.
Yes, I recall TonyD's posts regarding this fact.. I was trying to make sure I was recalling properly. Just to make it clear, this *is* only an issue under boost, and at zero boost naturally, there is no pressure in this line and no pressurized enrichment needed.. (I am just trying to fully analogize it with an FI forced induction system, which is all I know about.)
Your needle valve system sounds interesting; as far as I can tell (like that's worth much) it sounds about right. This is a really neat project, cant wait to see this built.
Regarding the placement of the thing, I was just playing the devil's advocate. There is no "right" way, I might've argued for AC compressor side if you had planned it on the other side.
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Not picking on you but... if the OE manifolds had 38mm runners, this thread wouldn't exist. An N42's runners are under 32mm! The runnners shown in the above manifold are 1.5", or 38.1mm.
While I'm happy with the results, and its still way early in the game, I have no reason to go larger on a street duty motor.
sorry, it was a long and boring day. I obviously wasn't paying attention; I knew this but remembered it wrong.
These things happen when I have a whole day with nothing to do but internet; its a price I pay for owning and driving a subaru (which needs constant attention) while i dream, plan, and research for my Z. Now that I think on it, it is the main TB for my subaru SPFI thats 38mm (yes thats right it is THAT small) I plead temporary retardation, your honor.
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Hey man. You are an upright guy; good principles. The personality you have shown in this thread speaks volumes, and I hope you read all the grains of salt shown to you here and do your best to see where everyone is coming from.
I think that overall, you've hear about the gamut of decent advice there is to give; however, I do agree that it has gone as far as it needs to (by that I mean, relative to boundaries regarding use of the forum) Apologies if any of my comments pushed the envelope a bit closer to that edge.
In short, we are all trying to say that planning for your life is good; but in the end you cannot always count on reality to match your plans.
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couldn't you obtain some of the hardware for mounting a power steering pump and adapt that to your purpose? I mean, with a supercharger (rather than turbo) you have the option of placing it on the less busy, less heat soaked side of the engine bay. I am not trying to nitpick, just making sure you have thought of everything
I like this idea; what sort of compression ratio were you planning on running?
also, refresh my memory.. the line going to the float bowls for the carbs from the SC; that is to add pressure to the fuel supply to held enrich the fuel mixture under boost, correct? am I at least essentially right?
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is that secondary air filter for use when not using the supercharger?
just making sure im understanding this right.. you are building a setup for "boost on-demand?" with NA for "normal" running?
interesting....
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Well now you just lost any sympathy you might have had from me.
No, at 14 she is NOT "the one". You are going to live 5 or 6 lives between now and the time you are 20. Believe me, neither one of you really know who you are or how you are going to look at life in a few years.
Maybe you need to step back from girls for a few years on concentrate on who and what you want to be when you grow up.
Hey dude, do not take the quoted post in the wrong way!!
His point was that you don't know jack about the man you are gonna be. You have plans, thats great, but what you do in the next five years is going to influence your life more than anything you have yet experienced... (true in 99.99% of 20th/21st century male american situations) Your relationship with this girl will alter you, your geometry teacher will alter you, high school football games will alter you.. and you have no idea what thats gonna be like yet. Thats all he is trying to say.
I have been a hopeless romantic my whole life; when I was 9 my crush switched churches to start attending with me.. which entailed her family converting to catholicism, NOT exactly a simple decision, more of a process. A Hybridization, if you will
(catholic jokes are the best.. but they come with a limited audience, sigh.) I had similar concepts in mind then; BUT even then, I knew somewhere in my head that to say anything like that was foolish. We moved out of rural north carolina and back down to south florida when I was 12; never saw her again, BFD.The single best piece of advice I have ever heard, bar none: Do Not Get Married Until You Are 25 (or close.) Quite frankly, women do not finish their full maturation process until sometime in their mid 20s.. some earlier, some later, but 25 is a good rule of thumb. Boys don't mature as fast as girls, right? that holds true until high school graduation, then things start shifting. Generally speaking, by the time a man is 21 he has made enough stupid mistakes that he is about 90% of the man he is gonna be.. but a woman at the same age (NOWADAYS, at least) still has FAR more mistakes to make before she really learns what is going on in this whole "society" place.. THIS is why so many marriages will break up.
So don't just get defensive; we know your feeling. thats "THE feeling," and I hope you get to experience it more than once in your life.
All this talk about going to church....Maybe it was the environment in which I grew up, but the first make-out session I had was in my church's parking lot. Hmmm, Youth Group was indeed fun.LOL, grabbed my first pair at a church lock in when I was 15. (Actually, it was a game of truth or dare.. so there were a COUPLE of pairs grabbed that night.. ahh, the memories.... The funny thing was seeing 2 of those pairs at another pairs wedding last 11/11. The times, they are a chaaang-ing....) Daeron == late bloomer, romantics aside.
Anyhow, regarding your situation.. Give it some time. in a few weeks, maybe try to talk to her parents, or one of them (just speaking to one might make it easier on you) and do your best to approach them as an adult, and address any particular concerns that they might have with you. Make sure that they realize that YOU know certain boundaries need to be respected, and that you aren't just burning to get into her pants. The fact that you are here asking for advice leads me to believe that you are a respectable type guy, and that you AREN'T burning to get into her pants.. yet. In time, if that comes up, well so be it, maybe the parents don't really need to know yet (keep it wrapped ferchrissakes) BUT ONLY LET THAT HAPPEN IN TIME. one of my stock phrases is somewhat appropriate here.. "Patience is a virgin." I substitute virgin for virtue for comical purposes normally.. but here its doubly appropriate.
Haste makes waste, and you have nothing to gain and everything to lose by being in a hurry. The most admirable high school relationships are the ones that start early, last a few years, then end before your graduation so that you gain the experience to move on while you are still in an environment where it is easy to bounce back. (ie surrounded by lots of pretty girls that you can talk to and "get to know" Trust me, once you get out of school if you should HAPPEN to go back to your high school in the next couple of years you will be AMAZED at the amount of tail walking around you.)
Its like the old man in the ads said: Life is a Journey!! Enjoy the Ride!!
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Injector size is not important, air-fuel ratio is. So as long as the AFR is around 13-13.5:1 for an NA motor, who cares how big the injectors are. Even the highest performance NA L-series only needs 36lb injectors. Going larger will just have a negative effect on your idle quality.
Hear is what I recommend for a modified NA L28 (stock fuel pressure):
- Stock CR, mild cam, headers, TB (140-160WHP): stock 18lb/hr
- 10:1 CR, medium cam, mild head work, headers, TB (160-200WHP): turbo 26lb/hr
- L31, 10:1, hot cam, head work, header, TB (200-260WHP): 36lb
Thanks for the clarification, but my intent in pointing towards "larger injectors" was merely as attempt to point towards another step to complement the manifold. I guess YOUR point is that, a mild cam is more complementary than non stock injectors.
Honestly, I just wanted to sound off in saying that IMO this manifold (or a similar one) is probably an IDEAL first step in modding an engine.. and I am curious to see what difference it makes by itself, unless a cam change is really needed to take full advantage of it.
Really, i was just trying to find a way to scale down the pipe-dream of dyno testing the difference made by any combination of ignition, fuel supply, and air supply that can be made with this type of free-flowing intake.. but of course if I REALLY wanted that data, I suppose I would need to do it myself.
Eagerly awaiting dyno results. thanks for pointing out the shortcomings of my previous post.
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123301
that should answer some of the sending unit questions
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hows about a shot of the front with the hood closed?
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can we say bionic Z????
major impressive work, my man...
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You know we had a guy from NZ the other day say that they can get ARB lockers for the R200. This would be THE KICK ASS DIFF for drag racers, in my opinion. You drive to the track with an open diff. Push a button and its a spool. Do your runs completely locked, then push the button again and drive home. These things are VERY popular with the rock crawling crowd, so I'm sure they'd handle a high hp drag launch. I'd love to see one of you guys try it. I'm guessing it might even be cheaper than a Quaife, you'd probably have to have one ordered from Oz if they're not stocked anywhere in the US.
That was my friend Phizinza.. hes actually from Oz, not NZ.. (we are subaru buddies, but old gen soobs.. so I cant give any positive answers on the soob rear end questions.)
His thought was to try to get datsun guys and subaru guys together on a potential buy-in, if i am not mistaken.
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look in the ignition/electrical forum.. someone just had a new sticky post added there and it goes over the entire turn signal/hazard system. the 240 is not QUITE the same, it uses different pieces, but the design of the circuit is the same.
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What helps me remember is "too young, too old, JUST RIGHT" with the firing order alrady posted.
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We have too many sticky's already.
Not in this sub forum.. My point was that with a little effort, all the users can submit bits here that could be integrated into the initial post... and that the S30 forum is the ideal place for such a sticky.
The more stickies we have, and the better indexed they are, the easier it is to point people towards all of the abundantly overposted information on the forum. In essence, I am proposing that we as users each make a tiny effort to help build this putative sticky into another place to point people who ask the inane questions rather than search for answers.
The easier and more exhaustive we can make the search for their answers, the fewer we will have to deal with the posts (and the more SAVAGE we get to be when we yell at them to SEARCH!!!
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I might argue that, depending on where your 'at' right now. If you are currently injected and using an OE manifold, you'll notice power dropping off pretty seriously by 5500 rpm. The manifold is the leading contributor. Runners are *tiny*. Even on a bone stock L28, this manifold would wake up the top end. A couple 'gotcha's'... you will need some sort of programmable EMS as the factory L-jet would be 'lost'. Valves *will* float with stock springs. Right now, this motor, with a mild cam and matching springs, is pulling to 7300rpm... where its beginning to float valves. This manifold wants to spin! See where I'm going with this?... the issue will become one of mechanical limitations. If you address those, even on a stock cam and head, I believe there is plenty of room to justify a manifold upgrade.
Just my dos pesos.
Ron,The latest motor I put together pulls strong right to 6500RPM. Cam is a 460/280 running 10:1CR. Stock valve springs. It makes almost 190WHP. No head work at all. Only running 25 deg total advance. The intake ports were opened up to match the N47 head. The TB port was matched for a smooth transition to the 60mm TB. The manifold is a late 280ZX (W42?) that has the plenum that is larger in the front, than in the rear. I'm curious to see how much of a difference this manifold will make. There is no way that it can add as much power as my "plank" coil mounting system
(inside joke).I want to add that I, for one, would LOVE to see a dyno result on a stock or relatively stock NA L28, and a turbo i guess, while we are at it, versus the stock intake manifolds. I think that this manifold is the one to try as the first variable to see how much difference the manifold itself makes; so many of us have dropped larger injectors and put the 60MM TB onto an otherwise stock motor over the years, when all of my recent reading, learning, and growing is telling me that this manifold, with all other stock components (except maybe the TB) will PROBABLY make more of a difference than any of the rest. Curious to see what could be done with nothing but the mani and some larger injectors.
Hard data on this question would be FANTASTIC.. unfortunately, I am nowhere near even working on getting my Zcar running right now.
I just figured I would post to add a little more emphasis that this manifold setup may well be a good "first step" in tweaking your engine. SOME sort of induction work really MUST be done for any real performance anyhow.. 38mm intake runners just aren't enough!
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Mate,
As cool as it would be to have a L31 (I would love to stroke my turbo L28) it may be better to build an RB30DET. We live in aus and these blocks are cheap as chips here (because of all the beven/bogan (americans read this as hicks or rednecks) and there love for commodores).
The RB26 head bolts straight on.
This would be my choice over the SBC, just my opinion though, sorry if I got off topic.
seriously, i was gonna say the same thing.
beven and bogan? like, rhyming with seven and logan right? crazy.
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Folks, I think we hav the first sticky of the new forum. Lets make this list encyclopedic, since our dear friend Paul was kind enough to give us a HUGE head start!!!
Suspension differences: didnt the cars get stiffer sway bars as time went on? i thought that the 240s were lacking rear sway bars and had skinny fronts, or something vaguely along those lines? (my apologies, my facts arent 100% off the top of my head
)then again, there is always the list so conveniently compiled for us by the good folks at Victoria British: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0009.asp
That link may not be quite right for all perpetuity; but they keep the model history just after the table of contents, so if you are reading this post in the remote future and its not linking to the right page in the catalog, you should be able to find it before the body of the catalog begins, but after the table of contents.
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Check the switch at the E-brake handle.
Also, there is a pressure differential switch that the brake lines both go down to when they come out of the master cylinder. The purpose of this switch (it looks like a proportioning valve or something, total of four brake lines in it and a wire) is to make sure that both front and rear brake circuits are working. if for some reason much higher pressure is detected in one circuit than the other, at an extreme point of pedal motion the valve kicks in, closes off the lower pressure side, and turns the brake light on.
This switch gets stuck, or the wire goes bad.
There is also a thread on this that was recently updated in the "Ignition & Electrical" forum that might be of assistance, the subject should be enough for you to find it.
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Daeron looks like I've got some bed time reading tonight.
Thanks Again!
Sulio
No problem, that was exactly what i said when i looked up the site on a recommendation. calibrating the skull wrench.
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toecutter:
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/inductionsystems.pdf
That website has a number of excellent articles to help expand your mind.. but this one, and in particular the comments about the Helmholtz effect, explain they "why's" of maintaining velocity stacks on your intake tract, and why changing the length of them changes your tuning, and what will happen if you unify all of your stacks into a "plenum" and use a filter. This is one of those areas that unless someone spends mucho bucks on multiple part configurations, AND high-dollar testing on each configuration, its REALLY largely academic, kinda seat-of-the-pants type tuning. Over time, an individual can gain an idea what sort of effect a certain arbitrary change in runner length will make, on a given engine.. but to ask "what will this do?" is something of a loaded question.
I mean, look at my sig... I don't know any more about what the changes might affect than you.. BUT, I know vaguely how they will effect the running of your motor. Maybe not in what ways, but I know how its doing it... you dig?
That grapeape racing site has a NUMBER of excellent technical articl, and I HIGHLY recommend reading all of them. At first I hadn't thought all of the articles would be that pertinent to me (me == not a V8 guy at ALL, so alot of "car literature" just bypasses my interest.) I was wrong, and every article on that website is a gem. Thanks TonyD for the reference..
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whoa, nice!! must remember this thread in the future
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If i said anything to be eased off over, I apologize.. there is no negativity in my intent, I was simply trying to identify the source to help explain why some of us don't like a certain look.
ebay parts collection - Got $1.5 Million to spare?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Jiminy Crickets, when I think of how many parts collections ha just been pwned!!! My uncle has several bays fulla crap, and when we include the entire extended family its absurd how many Zs and roadsters, and an incredible amount of datsun and outboard motor stuff.. i am amazed. Or, I WAS amazed, until I saw this.
on a side note.. what is this console with the gauges and what looks like a place for a stereo, bottom left of the picture, out of.. any clues?
It looks like it might be made to go into a 240Z to provide additional gauges at the price of the ventilation controls? I dunno, the shape (and sheer number of instiruments contained therein) seemed to grab the junk collector in me, and I wanted to try to find one of those.