Daeron
-
Posts
2148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Daeron
-
-
P-series valves are definitely shorter than the earlier Z valves; the suppliers are not providing complete information. They tend to only post what they sell, and if they do NOT have a given part on shelf.. they don't mention it.
-
step one: clean the connector to your Coolant Temperature Sensor.
step two: check the adjustment of your throttle position sensor. (and connector)
between the two of them, they account for many many stock Z-cars presenting the "running rich" complaint.
this link should help, its Blue's techtips page for the FI system. download, print, and staple to your forehead a copy of the Datsun EFI bible; it is an invaluable resource.
-
NO clue how accurate it is, but this page is SO comprehensive I figured it HAD to be worth something.. say the word and I will post it in one of the stickied threads.
-
If you need pictures of the head please do a search under my name as I have a few posted on here in a few different threads.
The P90 is uncut, just a slight lick taken off to make sure its perfectly flat. The JE slugs are 8.0:1 custom made and will be mated to the 9mm 240Z rods.
Regards - Yasin
Thanks!
-
yasin, is that P90 shaved or uncut? I am trying to stock pile pictures of the combustion chambers of various heads, and I would like to know rather than guess.. thanks.
Also, for posterity's sake, what kind of pistons are those? You said JE, but are they L series spec, or what?
-
well by using the longer connecting rods from the 240 it changes the throw of the piston... thus adding to the effective stroke. if the term "stroker" only refers to a longer stroking crankshaft, then please forgive the semantic error;
In any case, as I thought the negative deck height is a killer on this one.. what pistons might I be able to use to do a mild stroke job using the stock L28 crank and the 240 rods, that would give me a relatively flush deck height?
-
Okay, I have been playing games with the various "calculators" for mocking up an engine build.. and I have a question.
What I am thinking of revolves around the head; I am pretty set on doing the P90 shaved 0.080" for an NA motor, compression goal is around mid 10s.
According to everything that I have used (and I know not to RELY on these things) if I use stock L28 crank, L24 connecting rods, and KA24 flattops, I should be at about 10:1 compression...... but I wind up getting a deck height of about -1.25-1.5mm.....
The reason I am posting is to ask: is this negative deck height going to have an adverse effect on the quench pattern that I am using the P90 head for in the first place??
Also, what sort of piston options might I have to still get my mild overbore/stroker engine, yet maybe tuck the piston tops closer to the cylinder head??
Obviously, I am asking questions while sitting in the midst of a cloud of ignorance here, but I am trying to read and do my research, and I really kinda want these questions answered before I read too much more.
thanks gang.
-
Z-ya: Do you have a thread going for your progress on this intake setup?? We had discussed it before, and I was curious.. It appears that is basically a flange from a stock intake manifold welded on to the SU manifold in place of its flange??
Could you possibly e-mail me some more photos? higher resolution would be nice, but not needed... I am just very interested in this since we had the idea at roughly the same time, and I (like yourself) have the parts laying around. I could actually potentially fabricate a few of these setups, from throttle bodies to flanges, and sell them if there were demand... so you could say that I am somewhat interested.....
PM me and I will send you my email address if you have any more photos. thanks man..
-
hey gang, I just did a write up over on my subaru forum on installing relays for various purposes into an existing electrical system (starter solenoid control, adding fog lights, I tried to cover EVERYthing...)
Since the information is FAR from make/model specific, and helps fix old cars with old wiring problems, I thought I would post a link to it here, too...
Enjoy!!
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=598608&postcount=1
-
+1 on the CTS check, a VERY common problem point... the connectors get corroded because water can sit in there. you didnt get it wet, did you?? if so check ALL FI system connectors and hit them with some WD40, try wiggling each one while youre cranking.
-
Blue's techtips page has a procedure to calibrate the AFM to factory spec, and that is what you want. if you really need the link i will post it.
-
here is the FAQ table of contents..
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103836
and the Ultimate NA L-sreies Thread
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116680
Two good starts.
Honestly (it hurts to say this) you may well dump 15 grand into an incredible NA motor, but I believe the general consensus is that you will not get much higher than 225-250 whp out of it. I want to believe differently, and alot of people do, but the numbers speak for themselves. Not trying to sway you on the turbo decision, but you do need to know the facts, and the facts seem to be that there arent many people with an NA dyno sheet that sees as high as 275. Anyone here care to prove me wrong?? I know LOTS of people have had very high pricetag motors built by rebello and sunbelt, only to be dissappointed in the power output versus cost..
Lets just say that you will certainly NOT be the first "die hard" NA guy who winds up getting convinced to turbo, should that happen. (myself would be included on that list, if i had any cash to play with)
-
Hey, in the industrial world of the USA, there is no appreticeship program, no competence testing---
Great story, man. We had this weird thing (i have NO idea what to call it) that we used for testing the maximum torque on the guns we rebuilt (up to 1 inch IR, snap on, and chicago pneumatics mostly..) It was basically a very large stud (1 1/2" diameter??) with a large nut on it, and a hydarulic plate on the back.. we would crank the gun up to full flow (we had a 3/4 inch air line going 30 feet from the compressor, through a dryer and oiler, and down to this station) and hit away at the thing. I have personally taken "broken" guns (anything from vanes and rotor to destroyed hammer cages or anvils or even casings) and rebuilt them new enough to achieve over 1200 ft-lbs of torque, as detected by that little device.
Its just like turbocharging.. you do NOT get good power to your gun if you do not have ADEQUATE FLOW through your pipes.
TonyD, when I first started reading your posts on zcar.com (years and years ago) i almost thought you were kind of an ass... THAT did not take me long to stand corrected on, and I think every day that has gone by I have grown to like you a little bit more. It is cool to find that we have some common experiences.
Thanks for spending so much time here helping us pea-brained folks
-
I love the glasspack sound, I am SO shocked to find that so few of my fellow Z-ers opt for it.. I got one for my 75 but havent gotten it put on yet.
The primary drawback (no pun intended, ar ar ar) to the idea of a "twice pipes" system is the poor scavenging caused by isolating two sets of three cylinders... but the MSA twice pipes setup has a collector pipe that attaches to the header collector, so I can't see why it would be at all disadvantageous...
Mario, your videos say "full twice pipes" or something to that effect.. does this mean that you have deleted the collector and have a TRUE full twice pipe setup? I am imagining not, I think I have read the answer somewhere already, but I had to ask again.
I've never much cared for the turbo muffler sound... it flattens out the highs too much for my taste. Give me some of that old fashioned BRAAAAP noise accompanied by a growl over the throaty, flat sounding turbo muffler any day.
Of course, that goes out the window with an actual turbocharged engine, but for an NA car I am all for glasspacks.
-
there is a brake forum, this is the engine forum
-
Yes, you keep saying the car runs just fine with it on or off... if the car is running fine, what do you need help with? the car OBVIOUSLY will not IDLE with it connected or not.
Now, the important question: ARE YOU running with the 240SX, potentiometer style throttle position sensor? I am betting $20 that you ARE. you can NOT run with that style TPS, it doesn't tell the computer anything.
Unless you have a stock 280 (Z or ZX) TPS installed on your 60mm throttle body, and it is plugged in and properly calibrated, your car will NOT idle properly.
The Air Flow Meter does NOT ever need to be adjusted; there is a "hack" to adjust it to somewhat richen the mixture along a specific range of RPM, but not the whole range. It is NOT worth it as a band-aid fix; it is a hack that is a bad idea, and not worth doing under ANY circumstances. If you want to fiddle with something to richen the mixture across the band, there are better places to hack into. (The CTS circuit, for example.) Far better than "hacking" anything is installing larger flow fuel injectors, but really you are getting to a point where you want standalone engine management such as megasquirt.
However, if you take the potentiometer TPS that I bet is on your TB off, install one that your ECU can understand, plug it in, and calibrate it, I bet your car will idle right.
-
I forgot to throw in my favorite name for Harbor Freight.. Chinamart.
-
I would recommend taking any and all "ruts" you may have established and just throw them out the door. In the last ten years, the internet community has come to many conclusions regarding Z cars, and to me the most outstandingly loud one is, "It will work if it is done CORRECTLY, no matter what parts you wind up using."
There are debates over the primacy of combustion chamber design, but otherwise it has been discovered that as long as you stay within a few reasonable paramters (certain heads are just right out, like the stock Z-car N-47, the later E88 unmodified, etc..)
Best advice is to hang out here and read. Click on links, and read read read. These people know ALOT, and no ONE of us knows everything..
-
Funny thought, I was buying I-R Impact "Tune Up Kits" for our nice IR gun, at $58 a piece. Till I realized the HF gun could be bought for $58 COMPLETE and lasted the same 6 months as the tune up kits in heavy industrial use. For the $58, I started buying a NEW HF gun every six months, and giving the old guns to operators for 'personal' use---that kept them hammerring away on flanges and stuff with their OWN gun, and not using the 'shop impact' which meant the $58 tune up kit in the IR-Gun started lasting a year or more. So I kept my "Good Gun" longer, and they had something just as good for everyday use. Everybody won!
I worked at a tool repair shop, an authorized IR warranty and service center, and I must have installed hundreds of IR "tune up kits." It shocks me to hear that they typically last only six months in your experience; we normally only found that when the customer was overcompensationg for poor FLOW with higher PRESSURE, using dirty air, or not using enough oil.
Not trying to be accusatory, more trying to figure out the discrepancy...
as for other harbor freight stuff, I use the diamond bits and grinding blades ALOT. If you do any work on glass, and are NOT a professional, there is no other way to AFFORD it, because their diamond bits are literally about 5% what most stuff costs..
One word of advice, do NOT buy their metric flare nut wrenches!! I would rather use an OPEN END craftsman than a harbor freight flare nut wrench. Grinding discs, sanding belts, cut-off wheels..
OH YAH that beautiful aluminum racing jack they sell?? we havent exactly put it to HARD use but it seems to work FINE, and my brother has had it for about three or four years now...
without harbor freight, alot of us would be SOL... it is interesting, though, that it is cheaper for the chinese to manufacture the tools, AND SHIP THEM OVER HERE, than it is for us to ship our good tools 1000 miles to do a job. God bless America, huh?
-
As for 'clean install' I took a Non-EGR P82 and used it, instead. I think it's cleaner than the N42, and gives you much more space to get to the turbo when doing anything in that area.
I figured about as much. I thought that at this point, the thread was begging for the question to be asked and answered for anyone who hadn't considered that point.
Have you any photographs of this p82 manifold, perchance?
-
I haven't owned any "real" machine shop tools, but I had to replace a 1/2" chuck on a 30 year old craftsman drill a while back, and harbor freight had a jacobs brand chuck, made in USA IIRC (!) for like $5.. saved that drill for another year, until I used it on the flat roof and sucked gravel into the vent input.. oops.
-
most people seem to prefer the earlier, N42, non-EGR intake manifold that came on the first 280Zs, which HAS no webbing.. Does this mean that using the earlier manifold entails a "trade-off" of sorts? I had gotten the impression that the later intake manifold didnt have much to offer over the earlier ones, but I suppose that could just be a "clean install" factor. The later manifold is nowhere near as "clean" looking as the later, that is for sure.
-
Like this? It can be purchased in wider rolls.
Question: What does this material look like unerneath?
I worked for a vet, and we got cold shipments in these insulated bags.. I assumed they were mylar on the outside, and it looks like bubble wrap on the inside, with not mylar or aluminum layer on the inside.. I was gonna cut all these bags up and use them to insulate my car on the cheap, and had anticipated installing them mylar side down.
Is this material aluminum coated on both sides, or does the underside look like bubble wrap, like what I have?
-
Question:
I have used relays and plugs out of BMWs for starter circuits and whatnot in the past, and when getting that stuff from the boneyard, I realized that it was a piece of cake to use a tiny flathead screwdriver (almost eyeglass screwdriver proportions) to bend back the retaining tab inside the relay plugs, and remove the original wire terminal. Is it not possible to do something similar with the plugs from the original Z wiring, then replace the actual metal terminals inside the plastic plug?
Eyebrowing a block
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
and then the sig, "the most successful people are the ones who are good at plan B."
PRICELESS!!!
Well, it wouldnt be a wise idea if you are running a P-series head, because that "unshrouding" would be defeating the high-quench design of the head, and may lead to a tendency towards predetonation. I am kinda parroting a little, here, so I hope someone comes along and backs me up, heh...
but otherwise, if its actually a scenario where you would be unshrouding the valves and improving the shape of the combustion chamber, I suppose it could help.. its not just a simple question of "should I do it or not," its an issue of combustion chamber design; do you want to alter that? are you comfortable designing your own, thumbing your nose to the engineers at Nissan, and the folks at various machine shops? I don't.. (at least not until this thread develops quite a bit and we all learn something, like a quality epsiode of your favorite family sitcom.
)
I'm trying to be funny, and it may be taken as offensive, so advance apologies if needed, but I am making a point, too...