Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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my buddy integrated the chassis of a full tower case into a desk frame that he welded out of bed frame rails, with a piece of countretop on it.. he built a rack for his stereo receiver, and his speakers, too.. put the whole shebang on casters, and use to throw it in the back of his truck for parties etc.. like a DJ stand, sorta. I've always wanted to do what you did there, but never had a desk I felt like mutilating at all.. One of these days, though. Nice work, man, I like the fan box especially..
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find the Ultimate NA engine thread and read it.
This firum is great, but questions as basic as yours are going to get lots of comments using the word "search" rather often... performance engine building is NOT as simple as just throwing a cam in; having said that, the head choice is fairly moot until youve gotten well beyond stock. E88, P90, and N42 are all three the popular heads, so for now theres no need to start shopping for a new one.. the cam wouldn't do JACK unless you put more carbs on it to; the triple carbs would probably be the best FIRST step out of what you listed. However, suspension work (especially on a 30 year old stock suspension) will get you more FUN, if not necessarily more speed and better lap times, than any ONE of those things that you mentioned.
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My dad has a decent knowledge about vehicles. there have been many times that he gives me some kind of answer that is so far off it dosent make sense to me how he came up with it in the first place. and then to top it all off he is adamant that he is right.
I know what you mean... I kicked a rear wheel once on my 280 because it was a loaner from my dad, and they (he and my uncle and oldest brother) were under the impression it needed spacers to fit a Z.. when REALLY, it needed acorn lug nuts instead of flat mag style lug nuts...
And the BIG one was, when my alternator died. Again, my old man was adamant that any 280 Z or ZX had an internally regulated alternator, so I could straight swap the alt from my brothers defunct 280ZX onto my 75...
A few months and half a dozen electrical episodes later, I bought a real replacement, externally regulated alternator. I noticed that there was a sticker on the back of the thing saying "EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATOR-- It is recommended that you replace the voltage regulator at the same time as this unit." I eyeballed the size of it, and realized it was a perfect fit to go on the top of my craftsman multimeter, which I still have (complete with sticker) to this day. That was how I found out that the old man was human, after all.
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'chelle's car looks better, its RHD, AND it has a V12 in it...
This dude needs to wake up..... AND if he REALLY wants 80 grand for it, he ought to use a SPELL CHECKER for the love of mike!
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what we think that device is, it isnt really. that isnt the proportioning valve. it is just a connection block, and that is the one that is directly below the master cylinder.
Beg pardon, now that you say so I recall discovering this myself; my old man had told me that the block was the proportioning valve when my problem first cropped up. That means that the sole purpose of that block is basically to house that switch and block off one circuit or the other... of its open. AND to indicate that there is an issue.
thanks for doing the legwork and correcting me.
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Funny thread...
My favorite method of searching for vacuum leaks is to stick a piece of hose about 1/2" or so in diameter, and a couple feet long, into one ear, and fish the other end around the engine compartment. It acts like a stethoscope; cutting out noises other than those happening right there at the tip.
OR you could go to harbor freight and buy a mechanics stethoscope, used for pretty much the same thing.
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Thanks for the info, that screw you are mentioning is not the idle speed adjustment screw for the rpm. That screw is to adjust the rich/leaness of when the engine is at idle.
Yah, thats what I said.. essentially. The idle SPEED screw is the largish one towards the top.. BUT the point remains, neither of them has any effect on anything other than idling conditions...
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Suggestion: Find some Dark Bronze colored spray paint rather than flat black. Dark Bronze is the color anodizing used in most "black" sliding glass doors, and aluminum screen doors and enclosures... Its like a dark grey with a hint of brownish gold added, darkening it even more. Its almost the color the grilles and metal sideview mirrors were painted originally.
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I think youve got a bit of a fungus growing there, you might want to have someone look at that....
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Well, I can't help you. you still havent specifically said that you have inspected the little wire going to the proportioning valve, and if memory serves it is only one wire.. which typically means it is a switching ground wire, so if the wire were crimped or shorting out to ground anywhere in its length it would be turning the light on. The fact that the handbrake switch is DEFINITELY a grounding switch supports this thought.
As for killing the bulb, get adventurous. Pull your tach and take it apart; or find a wiring diagram and read it.
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well actually, i was totally misconceived because I had failed to notice that my gain in CCs up to almost 3 liters was from boring it out on the engine calculator page..
I was just trying to start getting a mock up plan in my head as a thought exercise. I have actually learned quite a bit beyond what I even asked in this thread, since I posted it. I just needed some pointers along the way, that was all
thanks though.
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okay, suit yourself. I was trying to get attention, that was all... CarolinaZ, it sounds to me like your problem is likely in your proportioning valve switch as well, or its associated wiring.
dont cut harnesses, dont yank bulbs, easy easy here!!!! that big red BRAKE light is a VERY multi-function device!!!
The reason alot of you are having mysterious "always on" brake lights is likely a problem with the wiring for THIS switch; you have ruled out all the other possibilities.
Sorry to yell there at the beginning, I just started reading all these posts saying "cut" "remove" "yank" "tape over" and other destructive words.... when no one was mentioning anything about the proportioning valve and it's associated switch.
If anyone has a FSM, you can look it up in there; I don't have mine handy.
There is my original post, sans a couple of unneeded side comments... Note first the yell to get your attention, the explanation that this circuit is almost definitely your problem (unless you re wired your car when you installed the all new braking system) and even an apology for yelling!
I was just trying to let you know that there IS another link between battery positive voltage, and that light bulb, beyond just the handbrake switch. It seemed to ME that was the point of this thread.. "what else would cause it to stay on?"
I never would have posted anything like this in a thread started by you, stating that you had re engineered and built your own fully custom braking system, and wanted to bypass the light. I was posting answering nscason's question.. why won't the light go off? If I was a touch too adamant for your tastes, my apologies... but unless you have an aftermarket proportioning valve, I bet your light is on for the same reason nscason's is: a switch or wiring fault in the P-valve circuit that everyone always forgets.
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you have concluded that you have no fuel being delivered to the cylinders.. I presume you do have good fuel pressure and flow? If so, and the injectors still arent firing, then you need to determine why THAT is the case. all the "tidbits" you could need would be found in the FSM, if you have one. If not try to find one on carfiche.com and read the chapter on the fuel injection system. That should outline how to proceed in your situation. I would suspect the injector dropping resistor if it has one? Honestly, the V-6 is an aliean to me, I am just trying to get you pointed in the right direction.
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the details involved in using the longer valves in the P head were beside the point; I am FAR from getting parts together even. I just wanted to know if you meant to limit your comment on the quality of the valves to the later turbos, or not. I didn't think such a distinction was intentional and apparently, it wasn't.
Thanks for the info guys, and pardon the minor hijack.
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EVERYONE STOP!!
dont cut harnesses, dont yank bulbs, easy easy here!!!! that big red BRAKE light is a VERY multi-function device!!!
It comes on when you hit the brakes and you have a bulb out;
it comes on when you pull the hand brake up;
and it comes on when activated by a presssure differential switch built into the proportioning valve
This switch comes on when for some reason, there is much higher pressure in the front brake circuit than the rear, or vice versa. The brake pedal goes almost to the floor, and then the light comes on, the "low pressure" circuit gets cut off by the proportioning valve, and what little bit of force generated by the last 1/16 of the travel of the pedal goes to the "good" brake circuit.
I know this because i drove with ZERO rear brakes for about a year; every time I hit the pedal it was a delayed reaction, and once braking pressure actually WAS being applied, the brake light came on.
The reason alot of you are having mysterious "always on" brake lights is likely a problem with the wiring for THIS switch; you have ruled out all the other possibilities.
Sorry to yell there at the beginning, I just started reading all these posts saying "cut" "remove" "yank" "tape over" and other destructive words.... when no one was mentioning anything about the proportioning valve and it's associated switch.
If anyone has a FSM, you can look it up in there; I don't have mine handy.
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If you do not want to spend the money on aftermarket valves, a used set from a P90 would do you fine, the stock Nissan valves for the turbo heads are very high quality material.
Doug
What about the earlier NA 280Z valves? what would your estimation of those be?
I ask because my plans are to use a shaved P90 head, and that is normally done with N-series valves to avoid needing to use thicker lash pads; I was planning on using stock valves but havent gotten around to researching the quality of those valves too much yet. Thus far my impression has been that they are acceptable as well, and im not asking for any more but say, 250, 300 horse?
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Cool, sounds like you are on top of things.. unless anyone else has something to say. I had to throw it out there; I couldnt remember who it was that said that recently and I didnt want to re read the whole thread to see if you had mentioned the concept already.
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possibly you havent discovered the FAQ forum yet? Ultimate NA L-series thread? Read some of the stickies, I was amazed once I finally did.
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1 fast z, I take it from the filename of the images that you dont really have a link you could post up for us to look at higher res versions of these images?
The small pics are tantalizing, its almost not fair
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Be advised that the two 2-wire sensors at your thermostat housing can cause a lot of your running rich problem. They are your Thermotine switch and the engine temperature for the ECU. Disconnect the wiring harness at the sensors - manually scrape the contacts clean, coat them with dielectric grease and then re-assemble.
THEN - follow the leads from the sensors about 16-18" toward the main wiring harness. If you look/feel carefully you'll find a lump in the wiring. Strip away the insulation there and you'll find some wonderful little corroded aluminum bullet connectors. Clean them the same way and your running rich will disappear. Then you can set screw on your airflow meter back to where it belongs.
Also - you may want to pull your plugs and clean them as they may be getting fuel fouled by now.
and if THAT does not fix it, go to the tech tips page and read about your throttle position sensor. the engine temperature of the ecu sensor is the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) I mentioned before.
Just turning the screw is almost certainly nothing more than covering up your problem, which is very very likely to be corrosion in these contacts or improper function of these sensors. Once they are confirmed to be operating properly, THEN you adjust the idle air mixture on the TB. The screw does NOTHING more than control air flow at idle, when the AFM flapper is essentially shut.
Go download the EFI bible and read it through.. it explains in clear english how the entire FI system works, and it really is FANTASTICALLY simple.
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I don't have the experience of a BRAAP or a TonyD and I definitely value their advice, but I don't consider myself a little person and I don't think you should either. ..... That's not giving either of us enough credit.
Errr.. communication breakdown.
I actually was trying to agree more with you, and say that to the uninitiated that turbo camshafts are even more mysterious than NA ones... I started talking about what I had been talking with my friend about... and then realized i had gone on at ridiculous length on something that wasn't *really* as on-topic as it could have been... I guess my re-write lost alot of my point.
I hate being long-winded.. I guess I should have just posted the long version. The big reason I named ANY names was to thank the people who seemed obvious to point to and thank for the dissemination of the knowledge down to the rest of us.... NOT to say that any of us who may be smaller gremlins have to pretend we know nothing and trust it all to the people selling us parts. Quite the contrary, I was TRYING to say that using "Common sense" without the requisite knowledge to select the proper cam for your application is about the most dangerous thing you can do in designing an engine.
Re reading my post, I really did do an abysmal job at saying what I was trying to say; my apologies.
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any decent exhaust shop should be able to fit an MSA 2.5" exhaust kit onto a good header with a 2.5" outlet for not too much cash. Mario and I both opted for the "twice pipes" setup, which might make things slightly more difficult because of the way it splits the connected pipes into two right after the connection to the header. BUT one of the MSA turbo exhausts (or whatever they call the other, single pipe, single muffler one) should be readily made to accommodate a non MSA header.
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anecdotal comment, I one time accidentally (i forget the circumstances, this is NOT like me) gassed my bone-stock 75 280 up to ahh.. significantly over 7000 before the valves started floating on me...
I made a comment to a friend of mine tonight, who was looking at potential upgrades and mods to his '05 SRT-4 tonight. I said to him, "I don't know a great deal about camshafts, but I know how little I know, and I know I am learning more every day. One thing that I do know, is that for my purposes, almost any aftermarket cam for a turbocharged car, is considered "experimental equipment" to say the least." My point was that since turbo'd cars have only really been popular with a widespread, upgrade-minded public for about fifteen or twenty years, and that quite frankly, the REAL know-how on camshaft selection had NOT disseminated to the general public yet.. OHC engines have been around and highly developed in a backyard environment for several decades, now, and alot of people have learned alot from their friends who worked in a machine shop. As a result, we all know more of the intricacies of camshaft specs than we did say, thirty years ago. I'm talking average gearhead knowledge level is up.. but in regards to turbo motors, the VAST majority of us don't really grok what makes it tick just right. The elimination of the valve overlap, although it simplifies the number of factors to be considered, merely makes cam tuning more subtle and difficult to get matched to the engine being built.
Not to talk down or negative about anyone and their choice of AFTERMARKET cam, by any means.. I initially started making the comment thinking about the remark made that the stock cam not making any power above 5500 RPM; Braap, tonyD and company are all well aware of the nuances that different specs can give to an engine's flow, but as far as us normal little people are concerned I think we have a long way to go.
Thank god for the internet, and hybridZ, right???
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ahh.. I am unsure of whether to even bother posting, I may be opening my mouth just to insert my foot....
...but wouldn't putting the throttle linkage between #3 and #4 balance the load, and ensure that any potential future wear or difference between the butterflies would be more evenly distributed? I would hate to see you have any flex in your throttle shaft that might cause the #1 cylinder to be richer or leaner than your #6, you know? I mean, theoretically, I am right.. but in practice I have NO idea if you would ACTUALLY see the potential issue I mention... just thought I would bring it up, since you asked.
Injector Rebuild?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
If you opt to somply replace the hose by yourself, just make sure to use:
1. High pressure fuel injection line
and
2. solid Band style fuel injection hose clamps, not the regular screw/slotted band type hose clamps, OR the double wire type... Parts store should be able to set you straight on what I am talking about, it almost looks like the piece used to secure chain link material to the fenceposts.. like a large C or "Omega" shape that almost comes together in a full circle. (Well, DOES when you clamp it
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