Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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I will get some of the links that I have gathered ith CNG/LPG vehicle conversions and post them up here.
This has been a pipe dream project of mine since I was 13 years old; I have looked into both an economy-minded, simple TBI type setup as well as the possibility of using it in a high performance application. I haven't done anywhere NEAR enough research to know enough to SAY anything about the idea, yet.. but I am in love with it and want to see this thread blossom.
I will respond once I have time to go through my histories and bookmarks and private messages, and list the links.
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I'd have to say thats the best response I've ever seen from a vendor.. I'm definately going to have to go with his parts for my build... Very Commendable.
I also say thats a good response from the OP.
Can you feel the love?
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Tim I respect and value your opinion. What is your opinion on the weight differences? I need to shed 240 lbs from my car and every bit helps.
Somewhat off topic for this thread, but regarding weight loss, I discovered in this thread about betamotorsports carbon fiber pieces, that you can get a fiberglass hatch with a lexan or plexiglas (I forget which) window for something on the order of $420 dollars... and that sheds ALOT of weight. Just thought I would mention it.
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For some reason I deciedced to take your ambiguity and expand on it. The prices I quoted above are for hatches not hoods.
Wonderful, glad we cleared that up. Negative feedback loop, closed.
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Hinge area reinforcement is an additional $25 for a firberglass hood and $50 for a carbon fiber hood.
Fiberglass is $420 plus $25 for the hinge area reinforcement. Carbon fiber is $793 plus $50 for the hinge area reinforcement - but call before placing an order for the CF hatch, prices change frequently. More information is here:
http://www.betamotorsports.com and go to the Products page.
Okay.. somehow I used the word "hood" once in my own post and I introduced some ambiguity, so I want to clarify.. (I never REALLY meant to say anything about a hood, just a hatch) Those were prices for fiberglass and CF hatches with a plastic rear window, correct? With and without hinge reinforcement?
five hundred dollars to permanently fix the rust on my hatch, and shed one of the biggest single masses that I can shave off of my car (ME, in MY plans for MY car, I am saying..) Plus shipping.. that is a pricetag I think I could eventually justify. Thank you for the tip
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If my knowledge didn't have a tad of uncertainty to it, I would have chimed in a few days ago.. but I am fairly certain that while there are differences in the door poanels from 70-76, they are all more or less interchangeable. The most significant should be the one piece handle, versus one small handle and a strap mentioned above, and IIRC all the doors actually have the capacity to take either setup.... it MAY be that the later doors can still use the earlier setup..
But I have a 7/75 280Z, that currently has 240Z doors on it, and I ahve played lots of games with the related hardware.. I preferred the 280Z, one piece angled door handle, and I think I retained it on my driver door but not the passenger... Anyway, most of the differences from 70-76 should be moot. The later 280Z doors, with the different latch etc, are totally different in every way. I *think* that the lock knobs might interchange, and the window cranks
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If my knowledge didn't have a tad of uncertainty to it, I would have chimed in a few days ago.. but I am fairly certain that while there are differences in the door poanels from 70-76, they are all more or less interchangeable. The most significant should be the one piece handle, versus one small handle and a strap mentioned above, and IIRC all the doors actually have the capacity to take either setup.... it MAY be that the later doors can still use the earlier setup..
But I have a 7/75 280Z, that currently has 240Z doors on it, and I ahve played lots of games with the related hardware.. I preferred the 280Z, one piece angled door handle, and I think I retained it on my driver door but not the passenger... Anyway, most of the differences from 70-76 should be moot. The later 280Z doors, with the different latch etc, are totally different in every way. I *think* that the lock knobs might interchange, and the window cranks
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I saw an old hotrod magazine where they were doing an oldskool hybridz BBC V8 conversion (this was a 77 hotrod mag) and they just got two new sheetmatal rear fenders and modded them to use as mega huge flares for drag tires.. meaning, they had a second fender welded on up over the first...
For the front, I dunno.. but thats one option for the rear flares
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If what I am reading is correct, he is talking about building an exhaust system of an appropriate size for a moderately modified stock engine, op to the point where a catalytic converter would wind up.. and then, from there on back, upping the pipe size and using a large flow cat and 3" exhaust system so that much of it could be left in place when the nice turbo motor goes in.
IMO, as long as you have a good 12-18" stretch of moderately sized exhaust (that long, fully collected) you should be able to achieve the scavenging effect desired from that. After that point, stepping up to a larger exhaust size shouldnt hurt much.. it may have some detrimental effect, not having the full length at the narrower size; but the impact should be minimal.
I am no battle-hardened tuner; my knowledge is thus far based primarily on reading and limited work on mine and other peoples cars.. but from what I have learned a short pipe can provide most of the exhaust scavenging.
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that IS in mighty fine shape.. looks to be a 240 model. The typefaces changed slightly, and while the 260/earlier 280s use the same typeface on the gauges, the words on the combo gaugs are printed slightly larger on the 240s
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I am recalling a certain amount of difficulty, or at least complication, in threading and tightening the intake manifold nuts as it is.. I may be thinking more about a roadster engine than a Z, and even still it might be a non issue.. maybe just, leave a blank boss with a center punch pre embossed, so that one could easily drill the hole out should it be necessary?
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I just want to replace mine with something that weighs a butt-load less. I am not looking at being able to do a great deal of weight reduction on my car, given what I want it to be.. and a normal functioning hatch that weighs much less than the stock one would be an EXCELLENT place to shed what, 20, 30 pounds? im not good at estimating weight on memory alone, and it has been a LONG time since I picked up a bare unhinged hatch with glass..
as for the "look" it would promptly be sanded smooth and finished body color; I have no desire for the "look" I just want to shed all the weight I can from my street car.
Basically, I am building a pipe dream in my head, and we shall see how close I ever get to it. Aim higher than you can possibly accomplish, and all that jazz.
What would the sticker be on one of those hoods, given that I did feel like going through the PITA of mounting it? Obviously it would be a piece that needed ginger treatment; not to be slammed about like a stock hatch..
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And that is the cold truth of it all.
Cold, Aye, and dark, and grim as well.
Arrr.
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Please don't take this the wrong way....
Has anyone ever told you that you just *might* have too much money to be a datsun guy?
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Yes, but the glass is the heavyest part of the rear hatch so you would not loose much weight. Also the rear hatch has to be pinned on, there are no reinforced points for hinges or a lifting cyliner/arm.
Dragonfly
Pardon the random ignorant question..
..but Why can't such a lightweight hatch/lexan combo be hinged and used in a way similar to a normal hatch?? is the carbon fiber THAT incredibly prone to torsional flexing? I suppose its too much to ask for a tad of reinforcement or substructure to get a usable but still lightweight hatch..
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In my head, in the pipe dream where I drop an L-series into a BMW of this style.. I totally alter the car to eliminate mention of BMW, and find a way to make it look more like a strange 510, and badge the thing as a datsun....
..but then again, I am a strange dude. with strange ideas.
I love this project, and have now subscribed to this thread. Nice work, and thanks for the engine porn!!!
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Like I have said repeatedly: 'Just because you screwed your sister for 17 years doesn't mean it's right!'
Wait..
Seriously?? Man, I must have missed a memo...
Looks like I've got another one of them "life changes" comin' up again...
But seriously, folks...
I just wanted to point out one thing. BRAAP, as usual, you were enlightening and colorful; you always give us such a wonderful look inside the mind of those of you on the higher level of "playing with cars..." I thank you for your thorough explanation and debunking. I have to say that coming from the side of Hybridz with more time under a hood than in a classroom or office, sometimes these semantic arguments are the hardest to really comprehend in a mannner that allows us to "fight the good fight" out there on the frontlines of ignorance.
Above and beyond that, though, this thread and situation REALLY does illustrate the difference between a thoroughly experienced and wise, yet uneducated "knowledge" and the "knowledge" of an individual with no MORE time in the industry, but solely more education (whether technical-trade type school or engineering degrees) tipping the balance to their side. In other words, no matter how good you make yourself without it.. School makes sure that you know how to fill EVERY crack, and know how to do it right, AND why the right way is "right."
I spent one year in a four year college... I've had just enough education to know what it is that I am, and am not missing... rest assured I am missing the important parts.
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the problem is that quite frankly, the market does NOT exist for lightweight cars. Too many people think that a miata is a matchbox that will only get you killed.. The Mazda Miata has been, until recent model years, the exact definition of what you are looking for, except that in stockish form they didnt have a great deal of power. My biggest problem with them was always in the gearing, but unless you turbocharge a small engine like that making real torque is VERY expensive (build wise.) Hpowever, my brother's AutoX prepped Miata has beaten Corvettes and Porsches.. those were usually poor drivers, granted; a decent driver in a vette usually beat him.. BUT the competition was there in an autoX circuit.
My point is, the Miata sold well, but not incredibly well. Sports cars in general dont actually seem to be a paying proposition to the manufacturers.. because we all want to get them cheap, used.. not enough of us like to foot the bill for the new ones. Until more new car buyers are buying "real and lean" sports cars, there will be none on the market.
The market rules everything; thats what capitalism is.
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http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingsystems.pdf'>http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingsystems.pdf
And the home website, http://www.grapeaperacing.com appears to have more information and reading material. Thanks, TonyD!
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I call that a "50-50 job," meaning that it looks GREAT from fifty feet, at fifty miles an hour
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I LOVE the idea of the 280ZX ducts into the 350Z hood.. THAT is HybridZ!! I would imagine that you could get the entire hood painted in one coat that would make the ducts look at home in the hood?? I would prefer them in body color if it can be matched; I think fake CF print is a tad tacky.
All in all, though, I think its a great way to give a salute to the past with your "new Z"
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I don't want to argue the relative performance of a clutch fan versus electric, but TimZ pointed out that a primary reason to go with electric fans is to fit the required package of parts together in the space available. Mayn many L28s run on exclusively electric fans, and if you try to find a large double fan panel, and go to the trouble of making sure you have a good strong alternator on the car (maybe install a 90 amp maxima unit? internally regulated, you can search for that one) BUT the need for the extra power is debatable.
Any chance you could mount two small electric fans, on opposite sides of the radiator? I am thinking one inside the the engine bay on the right side, pulling and one in front of the radiator on the left side, pushing. In any case, electric fans would likely suffice if everything else in the cooling system (radiator size and condition, hoses, etc) is in good condition. I like the L28 pickup idea myself, do you have a project thread going?
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You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.
I was thinking about the same thing, but it was an idea rather than an experience. My dad has used a fiberglass kennel cage as "stock" for floorboard repairs before, and I've done a bit of rudimentary glasswork in my own day. I was actually halfway wondering if you could mock something up with cardboard, cover the cardboard with wax paper, and use that to lay down a primary layer of glass, and maybe if needed go back and add a sheet or two once you peel it off of the mold..
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Looks SWEET!! Where in FL are you?? I would love to check that car out, its like the ultimate version of the 83ZXT my dad had...
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need some advice, probably to late
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
grumpyvette: contact Reliable Tool Service (Reliable Tool Repair something like that) on Wallis Road in West Palm... It is just off of Southern Blvd east of the turnpike, turn north onto Cleary road and go one block, turn right and they are at the eastern end of the first warehouse compound. Good labor, good labor rates, and parts available if you want. I worked at the place for a few months; I live right up the street from him. The guy's name is Jim, top notch dude.