Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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This is one of the best threads on "How do I make my old car safer?" that I have ever read, anywhere. I nominate for sticky.
Armand: for a sixteen year old in a sports car, it sounds like you have already taken care of the most important aspect of your own safety: the loose nut behind the wheel. You SEEM to have a very sober judgment of your own personality, and I applaud you for that.
I rolled a honda civic several years ago; It was pitch dark, and my brother woke me up after 3 hours of sleep, after a MAJOR concert, and had me drive him to his bus stop as usual. Since I didn't have to go to work that morning, I decided to take his out-of-state registry civic hatch (~1990) with functioning defogger, windows, etc rather than my 280. SINCE I wasn't in my car, and I was going back to sleep when I got home anyhow... I did NOT smoke a cigarette. Man, I wish I had.
After we waited five minutes for his bus, I rubbed my eyes and took off down the road.. somewhere along the line, in under two blocks, I drifted back to sleep just enough that I slowly eased off the road, halfway into a ditch, then hit a culvert where someone's driveway passed over that ditch. One complete revolution counter clockwise looking at the rear of the car, and one and a half flips end over end later, I was leaning against a guardrail between the sidewalk and a small canal.
My only injuries were a few light scratches, and a bruised ribcage from the seatbelt. That seatbelt, and a tale of my dad's, were all that kept me alive; the guardrail went through the windshield right about the point you would touch if you reached your right arm straight forward and up slightly, about an 8 o clock position from the rearview mirror. My dads tale involved flipping a VW van end over end with my then infant eldest brother in the passenger's seat, neither of them wearing seatbelts. Dad's one arm on the steering wheel held them both in the car. My two hands locked on the wheel of the honda saved me.
Being FULLY aware of the risk you take every time you put the key in the ignition is more important than a seatbelt; seatbelts are safety item number two; all other concerns (significant though they are, I do NOT want to take away from that) are less important than those. My dad's story and my own instincts are all that saved me, (well, the seatbelt, too) since I was for all practical purposes ASLEEP when I did this.
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Thank you both immensely. I may need to swap the ECU on my DD subaru, and I think i will need to change the pinout since the only available ECU is from a different year. You've given me hope that I CAN in fact find the "locking tab" even though it is a TOTALLY different vehicle; none of my subaru people have been any help in this.
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Its over a month old NOW, but check this out....
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/car/307304502.html
"motor, suspension, and turbo all bob sharp" 83 turbo 2+2 for $3500.. apparently, its a worthy investment for PARTS alone!!!!
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at around 3500 RPM?? stumbling?
does the urbo have the same style throttle position switch? I know that on my 75 NA stocker, any time i got a drop of water under the hood the TPS went schizo and the engine REFUED to go above 3500RPM. I punch the gas, it revs freely up to 3500 then just.. poof... until the needle dipped back down to below 3 grand, then vroom.. poof.... vroom, poof...
Might be worth investigating, the TPS is basically a three position switch.. Idle, cruise, and WOT. if your WOT contact is poor then you would have the problem you are mentioning.
Of course, my mouth may be writing an invitation to my foot, since I do not know what kind of TPS the turbos used, but hey.. I'm just tryin to help. If I am wrong, hopefully someone will correct me so I will know not to say this next time.
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If you are going for a simple rebuild, to essentially turn your stock ZX NA motor into a stock ZX turbo motor, then you have everything you need except for a set of stock turbo ZX dished pistons. The stock 82 ZX motor came with flat top pistons, which yields a higher compression ratio than the dished ones; this is good for an NA motor; but unless you are getting into building a beefier than stock motor you want to used the dished pistons.
I would recommend against trying to go any farther than stock, without being EXTREMELY patient and doing a good deal of research, reading, and searching here on hybridZ, clicking on links, and buying a few books. Go to the FAQ forum; check the hyperlinked table of contents out and read up.
For a newbie, or for ANY of us mere mortals like you and I, building an engine is not unlike painting and bodywork.. PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING. Once you have a clue how much you do NOT know, then you have a much better handle on what you DO know.
Also, never forget that the requests for you to "search" that you see so often on this forum are not limited to just typing in "zx turbo" and hitting the "search" button; it means get inventive in your search terms, check out the "similar threads" feature at the bottom of each thread you turn up in your search, and read, read, read. REsearch, not just simple searching, is what you require.
hope this helps..
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I would say a test is in order.. see how different they sound when held flush up to the radiator. The question is, are the fans "torquey" enough (for lack of a better term, its really a matter of how much force they induce on the air they move) to force air through the coils of the radiator. If there is an audible difference between the fan operation out in the open, versus up again the radiator, then I would say no go. If they dont change pitch when you set them up against the radiator, then it might be kosher.In that case, your big concern would be moisture.
PC power supplies transform 120VAC to 5 and 12 VDC, all internal power inside a computer is DC.
Your idea is crazy; but it MIGHT be just crazy enough to work; I would just mount a pusher fan on the front of it though. I save the PC fans for post hurricane times, when my landlord and I are living off of 12VDC!! Radiator fans, turn signal bulbs, headlights, and PC fans abound!
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Hiz and herz was kind enough to point out a flaw in my relay write up; i intend on fixing it as soon as possible but just in case I forget, may as well mention it here that apparently, terminals 87 and 87A are NOT parallel outputs; it appears 87 has power output to it with the relay energized, then when the relay is not energized power is output to terminal 87a.
disregard the post if you didnt read my relay write up linked to above; but I wanted to make the note here for posterity's sake in case (as I said) i dont get around to fixing the write up before i forget.
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I did this write-up on my subaru website, but the information is as appropriate to Zs as anything else. I realize you already said you have a power box from a neon, but check this out anyhow...
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=598608&postcount=1
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seriously.. it would cost less than that to have a machine shop weld some aluminum onto a stock nissan valve cover, and just machine the words into it...
Anyone ever read a book by Philip K Dick called The Man In The High Castle? That item there has "historicity"
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WOW thats freakin NUTS
I just came across this thread while searching about the idea of a turbodiesel in a Z... and I had to refrain from posting in it because it was a 2 year old thread.....but I found it before having checked any new posts on the forum in the last two days.. so I go and see whats new in the L-6 forum, and here is the thread I just read!! strange days.... (it goes without saying that when I read the post before this, I failed to catch that it was a day old...)
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naw, later NA 280ZXs came with the same hood. The recent aerodynamic testing just *might* explain why...
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FINALLY!!!! something has come along to make me ECSTATIC that my Z is still languishing under the cover in the driveway!!! I dont HAVE to be "patient" about any of this; by the time I get around to BODYWORK.. this news will all be old hat!
TonyD, regarding your last comment.. I just got back from a one day AutoCross event with my brothers in their 240.. they are shooting for ITS class, so the car is more or less in stock form. Today's event was just a "Test and tune" day.. BUT there were lots of EVOs and WRXs out there.. and the Z turned a MUCH quicker time, with one drive wheel (open diff) than any of them could put up with FOUR drive wheels..
My brother Tim (a member here, but I don't know his handle) got a REAL kick out of that.Oh, and Mikelly.. rest assured that the Z torch will live on as long as we can keep the cancer out. My first memories are riding around with my dad in his 72 drinking chocolate milk and going "vroom vroom" on sunday Mornings when my age (only 2!!) excused me from regular church attendance...
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not much help, but unless it was particularly high quality even a "new" clutch disc COULD shatter.. not all parts are bulletproof, and I could imagine a possible situation (say someone drove a long distance with their foot resting on the clutch pedal) where the clutch disc may have been damaged in a way that it cracked. All it takes is one chunk of material in the wrong spot. BUT if it is new, then I am probably off-target.
No worries about the brain fart, it happens.. everything you described pointed towards "not disengaging" anyhow, I am just a stickler for clarity. My apologies for nit-picking.
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Now the clutch won't either engage or disengage.
I assume you mean it won't disengage, and you can only shift into or out of gear with the engine off? If the clutch wouldnt engage, then the position of the gearshift would never matter, you would always be in neutral.. The two statements are mutually exclusive.
Is it possible that your clutch plate shattered?? I nursed a dying clutch for the first year I was driving my Z, and when I finally wore it to the point of trashing the rivets holding the friction material to the sprung plate, my clutch was TOTALLY functionless.. I was about 1/4 mile and two left turns from my house, and I panicked and let the car coast to a stall.. (this was before I knew about synchro shifting) I wound up having some kid on a four wheeler push me from behind, with the transmission in first, while I bumped the starter, and just awkwardly drove home stuck in first.
However, one time I had to replace my clutch master and the store gave me one with a fork connecting to the pedal that was too short, and it resulted in the same situation, pushing the clutch pedal did not disengage the clutch. If you recently replaced the master, that might also be the problem.. this is somewhat related to the "broken pin at the top of the clutch pedal" someone mentioned already.
Seriously, though, my bet is shattered clutch plate. When they break they can essentially become wedged between the remaining sprung plate, and the pressure plate, and become impossible to disengage.
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I haven't done it myself yet, with the Z-car, but I would say it is well within your grasp if you feel the initiative, and have the tools. I say "and if you have the tools" not to cover any exotic stuff you need to do the job; rather, having the tools generally indicates that DO you use them, which generally indicates that you know HOW to use them.
Save up a bunch of empty soda bottles, and cut the lids off of them. Label as much as you can, and organize the bits as they come off; this can help make re assembly easy. If you are going to disassemble your own head and re use the valvetrain components, then take a cardboard box and keep your rocker arms, valves, lifters, etc all clearly labelled as to what cylinder they go to... sorta like this:
(this was on my subaru engine, so i have two cylinder banks.. and I didnt remove my valves, but you get the idea.) This is only really necessary if you plan to re use all of these parts; THAT decision is in your hands. I was only doing a headgasket job.
There is a reason the book is called "How to rebuild your datsun OHC Engine..." This is because it tells you how to rebuild your datsun OHC engine
There is also a "How to MODIFY" book that makes for excellent reading; and if you are getting into THAT, may as well go for how to hotrod and RACE your datsun. I believe all three are available through motorsport auto; I do NOT think all three names are *quite* as similar to each other as I have made them in this post, but you should be able to figure out which ones I am referring to.Thats the best advice I have to give to you. You already know that the book(s) will be your friend, and judging from what you have already gleaned you ought to be able to figure everything out; just follow specs.
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Sorry for not contributing anything useful, but when I saw the title "pining for the fjords" came to mind:
"Bea'iful Plumage!!!!"
"This.. is an Ex... Parrot!"
*I* saw the subject and thought, "I, too, have a problem with pining for my Z.. I havent DRIVEN it in almost THREE YEARS:cry2:"
back on topic, though; although I am no sage I will add my two cents that you NEED to find out what kind of pistons you are running. Stock (NOT wildly modified, I should say) N42 head on a high compression turbo motor is going to ping like mad, and if you have domed or flat top pistons in there, then you have high compression.. the N42 head was designed to be used with dished pistons, at a *fairly* mild compression ratio.
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Yup. Use the laser to find steam and/or mist.
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a laser pointer can be of great assistance trying to track down a pinhole leak..
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Beh, I have no job right now so my time is free. Not good. If *my* humble advice can help anyone here, then great.. I'm glad to be of assistance. Don't get the idea that I really know what I am talking about though.. I'm really just a novice, unlike many of the people here.
What I am saying is, if someone says I am wrong, there is at LEAST a 50/50 chance that they are right
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okay.. the thermotime switch controls the cold start injector. I *believe* that this "9 volt battery" was intended to BYPASS the thermotime switch and activate the cold start injector circuit, so that it fires to enrich the mixture to help with cold starting. the 9 volt battery has NOTHING to do with the starter.
The way the thermotime switch works, is it has a bimetal switch that pens (read: turns OFF) when it warms up. It can either be warmed by engine coolant (turns it off when the car is already hot) or by a small heater element contained within it. This heater element makes it turn itself off at a set amount of time after cold starting the car; if I understand correctly, the 9 volt battery is there to cover up a malfunctioning thermotime switch. In other words, the thermotime switch is turning off too soon, so you need to keep it on.
Hopefully djpaul comes back and responds in more detail; I am unfamiliar with this fix but I understand the system behind it.
Do yourself a favor, and visit this page
and download and read the "EFI Bible," it explains how your fuel injection works. WONDERFUL reading, not overly technical, and its actually a readable translation.. the FSMs for the S30 all seem to be written in japanese, then poorly translated to british-style english, making them somewhat obscure for us American readers in some cases.. ESPECIALLY when the discriptions get technical, and the reader is not a professional technician.. but the EFI Bible has NONE of those drawbacks.
Hope this helps...
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There was a really good pic on someones websight of what is being refferred to by the radiator sealing. John coffee maybe....???? It was a white road race car
could this have been it?
This was from 74_5.0L_Z's photo album here on hybridz.. but looking at it a second time, it s hard to see if it prevents that much air from traveling under the car.. obviously his setup forces it through the radiator, but the point is (seems to be?) to avoid it pushing below the car entirely, and leaving the airflow no choice but to go through the engine bay and then out the engine bay vents.
I dunno if I am right nor not, but that was the car that *I* was thinking of regarding your comment, there, stony..
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Well i guess i didnt mention that i do audio recording, so archives of that take up one 200 gig hardrive (I like wav), the 80 gig hardrive is for working, and the other is 120 is for my videos (z videos, rides, topgear, etc)
Okay, my mouth is open, ready for my foot.. but have you heard of lossless audio compression?? it cuts the size of a wav down roughly in half, oftentimes more, without suffering any loss of quality.
Juat thought I would mention that...
As for a source of desks, I would think the local thrift store, goodwill/salvation army, or even keeping the eyeballs peeled for garbage on the crub might be a better option that a homedepot desk.. Personally I would want to do this in solid wood, rather than pressboard.. Wind up with a decent product.
Then again, the biggest reason I haven't gotten around to doing this is the fact that I dont want to maul my nice hardwood desk I got for Xmas when I was in the first grade...
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*should* be an internally regulated unit, but I may be wrong. check a parts store website; look up your model and year, and see if it says the alternator is internally regulated or not. However, I am pretty sure that the 280Z in 78, and all subsequent Z cars, were internally regulated.
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Hood vents do what they are supposed to do. They vent air OUT!
cowl induction hood vents as well as simple "280ZX" or later 280 style hood vents? I prefer the big risen cowl look to holes in my hood... and would imagine that dumping all that air out to a point where it gets sucked into the wiper cowl...
I had to ask, but theres no need for a LONG answer; I read all these little questions and thought, "He would probably rather be writing the full article than waste time making a bunch of long posts giving us drops out of the gallons of data...":icon10:
There is also a "How to MODIFY" book that makes for excellent reading; and if you are getting into THAT, may as well go for how to hotrod and RACE your datsun. I believe all three are available through motorsport auto; I do NOT think all three names are *quite* as similar to each other as I have made them in this post, but you should be able to figure out which ones I am referring to.
280zxt 82 ...Hybrid t3 turbo HELP !!!!!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
awww hell... i wont ask no questions, that just SUCKS. I had my Z impounded once... I had a warrant for failure to appear when I was misinformed that one court appearance subseded another on a driving w/ suspended license charge.. cop swerved out of traffic to make the left turn, then u turn, to get behind me a at a LOONG redlight... because, get this:
He said he saw my lack of a front bumper. I spent a night in jail because I took the bumpers off of my car. Yes, there were extenuating circumstances and i do not BLAME the cop, but still......
Good luck in court, and FIND a way to borrow the money needed to get the car back YESTERDAY.