zlalomz

I believe the flares are the "IMSA" MSA flares. The mud flap in the back is what makes me think so. I have the "street flares" on one of my cars.

http://www.reactionresearch.com for the first two. It is called the 280YZ. The second is a one off build by the racer. The molds are not for sale.

Bryan Feldman of Datsun 510 fame in Georgia has quite a bit of 13B turbo rotary experience. His website is down right now but perhaps someone has his E-mail address. Go to http://www.bryanf.com/ to see a picture of his radical rotary ride. P.S. it was good to meet you at the Rio Vista event.

I talked to Ted Fisher about his wheels. They are 18x12 Complete Custom wheels. 5 1/2 inch backspacing with 1/2 inch spacers up front. Yes 18X12.

If you click on that link to the image and then click on "see all of this users photos " next to my name, there is one of me driving that car at a racetrack. It is not great so I will try to post more showing the custom body work soon.

Here is a link to my brother's 3 into 1 grill and Kaminari air dam. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3434&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 all the bodywork including flares is custom.

My brother used the longer slats from three grills. Removed the short ones and riveted the long ones on to make a very nice grill.

I believe the flares on Steve and Ian's car are Motorsport Auto Street flares that I have on my car also. http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=1&relIdx=20&vehId=1580

The backspacing is only 3 and a half to 4 inches. I will check this weekend. These tires have a wide section width,(bulge). They are designed to run on 7 inch wheels even though they have a 9 inch "tread". They are very small in diameter (only 23 inches tall). The reason the car has a good stance is, it is so low it would be undriveable on city streets. As my brother says, "It looks like it's sitting on four flat tires."

More pictures are at http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=1&relIdx=20&vehId=1580 Drsideways runs 16x10 wheels under Motorsport Auto's IMSA flares. He trimmed off the mud flaps to get the "old school SCCA look." 10 inch wheels would be a problem under my front street flares I would guess.

The baby diaper green car is mine. Those are Motorsport Auto "Street Flares". 15x8 wheels with 9 inch wide slicks for autocross. The flares are pop riveted on. The car is about to get painted after a sunroof repair, 280 vented hood and lexan rear window are added. Maybe then they will get "prettied" on. The springs were removed and tires moved up and down to determine how much of the inner and outer fenderwell were to be cut out. The inner well was then pounded up to match the outer and welded together. The front fenders are one layer and just cut. Some clearance of the front flare lip was needed to clear the tires.

Sounds much better than a butt weld. . I will post some pics of my success or failure.

It looks like a bodyworking and welding nightmare with thin curved metal and no support. Just hoping someone has actually done one of these methods of repair so I can learn from their experience. I would rather use my mig at home instead of taking the car to a tig weldor.

Thought about choppin' the top, but I am keeping it in the F Prepared class in SCCA autocrossing. If no one else has replaced a roof I am going to proceed with this plan. Position and tack weld a rollbar then drill out the spot welds on the current top with the big hole in it. Next,see if the 'skin' will come off. If so, finish weld the rollbar. If not, I will cut the pillars and then weld on the new top trying to keep things aligned.

I can't stand another day with my sunroof so I need to replace the roof on one of my 73 240's. I have seen the whole roof chopped off a Z and a new one welded in. It looks to me like the roof skin can be drilled out at the spot welds and removed. Has anyone done this or know of the best way to get rid of my 'groovy' sunroof? 'Too much sun in California' Steve

I knew my center of gravity would change while I added on to my rollcage, so I counterweighted one end of it. I can easily spin the car and add or take weight off as needed. Pictures of it can be found at, http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=1&relIdx=20&vehId=1580 Hope that helps someone who didn't quite find the right pivot point. Steve

I came across a late 260 or 280 where the owner cut off the triangular area the headlight bucket rides on and welded on the same piece from a 240. This included the two bolt holes for the early bumper. Sorry I don't have any pictures.

WOW! Looks like I have some work to do. Here are some pics of my 280YZ project. http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=1&relIdx=19&vehId=1580 Just picked up the fiberglass from a Hybrid Z member last week. This will be an open track car here in Northern California.

Check out a write up on installing advance design struts on an autocross Z at www.ccsi.com/~tholt/