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zlalomz

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Everything posted by zlalomz

  1. Thanks John. I wasn't sure if 8610 reffered to a line of inserts or to a specific one. I went to Koni's website and got more info.
  2. http://www.ztherapy.com sells a tape for $15 on cutting and building the trunk. I just bought it and found it has very poor video quality but priceless information on where and how to cut. The windshield frame is covered in the next tape on how to install a convertible top. Another $15 well spent.
  3. Those are the ones I had in mind when I asked if yours, John are 280 strut tubes. According to that site they will not fit 240 tubes.
  4. The weight from doors comes from the glass, window mechanism and inner panel. My doors are completely stripped and have the metal inner panel cutout. They weigh hardly anything. Also after 73 an inner box was added for some side impact protection. This is cut out on my 73 since I have a rollcage doing that job. Also I believe the minimum weight for E-Mod is 1500 lbs. Without a tube frame it is hard to even get down to 1900 lbs. with the six cylinder. I think the SCCA should have a class for V-8 swaps with a more realistic minimum weight. Let's write letters. Also in F Prepared you must keep the metal door. I don't know if this applies to E-Mod.
  5. This is what a racer who built his own lower arms is using. A tie rod end from a Ford F-250, Moog#ES2214R. He uses 16x10 slicks and has had no problems. I don't know if this is what Arizona Z is using.
  6. I e-mailed you some pics of the adapter plate that raises and levels the rotating arm at the firewall.
  7. The flares on the green car are from Motorsport Auto and are their "Street Flares". My flares are just riveted on but most people use the mega glue they sell and then bondo blend them in. You need to do some cutting on the front and rear and welding in the rear. How I did mine is at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7599
  8. I will take a pic this weekend and post monday if no one has.
  9. I just read the article and was interested about something said on pg. 76. He slotted the rear control arm hangers, (it still has stock rubber bushings below) for toe adjustment. I haven't seen that before. I guess that would not work with the stiffer bushings I have unfortunately.
  10. Some pictures of the car dolly would be great! Thank you.
  11. Your car looks fantastic. What yellow did you use? I was a videographer 8 years ago on an HGTV show called Gardening by the Yard. We shot in Tulsa in the host's back yard. Your pictures brought back some of the heat and humidity of that summer. Could you put a larger picture in your gallery of your avatar? That car dolly looks interesting.
  12. I'm a cat lover and this picture still cracked me up. I just won't show it to my daughters.
  13. I would think the Subtle Z kit would be the best quality and most usable for the street. Some old school styles would be IMSA flares like the first pic in my personal gallery or the bubble flares on the green car. 18X10 wheels wouldn't fill a YZ front fender without a lot of offset. Ted Fisher's are 18x12. Headlights can be placed in the grill area of the 280 YZ like Ted Fisher did on his on the reaction reasearch website. Three styles are in my pics at http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=1854
  14. I always thought the 280 YZ kit resembled the Ferrari Maranello 550 . Perhaps headlights placed in the flat slope and opening the bulge in the hood to make the scoop.
  15. Maybe this one? http://darius240z.com/240z.htm Scroll to the bottom pictures. Those are the 280YZ flares available at http://www.reactionresearch.com I have them on one of my cars too in my personal gallery.
  16. Darius in the east bay has the 280YZ kit and has some pics on his website. I have the kit in Sacramento with pics in my personal gallery.
  17. John, are the Koni 8610 inserts for use only with 280 strut tubes? Just in case someone was going to use these measurments for their 240 tubes thinking these inserts would fit.
  18. The red Z looks to be a combination of two styles. The rears look to be from this one http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3272&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 and the fronts look to be old IMSA like the ones I have. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=1154&cat=500 The rears might be still available through the black car's sponser, Motorsport Dynamics in Sacramento. The fronts are still floating around from the IMSA days (I have two sets). I have an old picture of the red car in my gallery at classiczcar. From Auxilary's pictures it looks like the owner has molded in the front headlight covers since then.
  19. Great stuff! I have been trying to locate the owner of the red GT-2 Z in your De Anza gallery. You wouldn't know his name would you?
  20. Looks great for drag racing. If you are going around corners it might look more like Cary is doing with his E mod car. http://photos.yahoo.com/cmcalstr He is using struts still instead of double a-arm front suspension because originally he was going to be in the new Street Mod 2 class. A lot more triangulating and tying into suspension load points. I wish someone sold a GT-2 frame in volume. (hint, hint)
  21. Yes, I have two sets of the full fendered real thing from the 70's. One set I bought from an endurance racer from back then. I haven't looked at the latest MSA catalogue but they had a wider set than mine with mudflaps that look like the silver car's. They called these IMSA "style". I will put pics of the real thing in my personal gallery.
  22. I believe the silver car's flares are Motorsport Auto's "IMSA" style flares.
  23. The green car is mine. Those are the "street flares" from Motorsport Auto. They are copies of the SCCA flares Zcars used in C Production racing many moons ago.
  24. Try http://www.reactionresearch.com Look under 280 YZ and Subtle Z kits.
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