Mikey303LSZ

Looks good Richard Oben!

What trans are you running and what car? I have a 4L60e in a 240z. The stock trans lines from the donor 2002 trans am work perfect. Try snapping the OEM lines into the OEM trans fittings.

>8,000 miles - the budget Phantom Grip still works great! Love this car.

I built this car because of my Dad and the memories I have as a kid. The car is a '73 - Dad bought it in '74. As a kid I would ride in the back (sitting straight) and my sister would as passenger up front. Both my sister and I learned to drive a manual transmission in this car. I was able check something off the bucket list this summer - Get my Dad's Datsun running again and spend a few days with him on a road trip. I picked him up in Texas - we spend 4 days on the first leg of the 2016 Hot Rod Power Tour starting in Lousiana. We both had a blast. During the trip Dad saw his old car do 1/4 mile fun runs in Baytown, TX. I ran 3 times, ironically staging against 2 different Hellcats on 2 of 3 runs. Wasn't sure how it would shake out but was pleasanly surprised winning all three races. The best ET was 12.66. I clocked 3,500 miles from door to door without troubles. I was super happy Dad made the trip - we both enjoyed the car together once again.

Dropped the trans. for a few Sonnax updates and a TCI converter. Added a heat shield barrier to the trans tunnel and exhaust area to help with the heat soak inside the cabin. The trans shifts much better... Quick and firm. Good uprade, well worth the effort.

The drone of the Hush Power muffler drove me crazy during long drives so I burned in a Dynomax VT. The drone went away, now I have a slight slapping noise of a metal damper valve at idle. Swapped out the rear control arms to Techno Toys about the same time.

I ran the vent line to the highest point I could find. I ran the hose to the lower part of the strut tower and made a loop up and over the inside flange of the strut tower.

I kept the spare tire well - It provides extra storage space for long road trips.

I tried copying the links into the reply with no luck. Go to Tanks Inc website. I purchased the PA Series pump module and PA-6 pump. I used the #VV roll-over vent valve and PA-REC fuel pump weld in recess.

Wasn't too happy with the inline fuel pump I orginally installed so I picked up an OEM tank from Craigslist, cut the top out, bought a Tanks, Inc. kit and installed a 400lph in tank pump. I found a steel utility cover from Grainger, modified it and welded it into the body - if the pump fails I can remove it from the top w/o dropping the tank. I ran -8 to and from a C5 Corvette filter/regulator. Last month I took the car on 2016 PowerTour for a total of 3500+ miles door to door - No problems. It ran three 1/4mi. passes in BayTown, TX without fuel starve. I'm really happy with this setup - it's nice and quiet with no fuel starve issues during accelleration, braking or hard cornering.

70MPH=2400RPM. 75=2600, 80=2700, 85=2800 with 215/55r tires. Each year friends and I do a national car event - we're on the road for 9-10 days driving 3800 miles round trip typically running 2700 to 3000 rpm.

70MPH=2400RPM. 75=2600, 80=2700, 85=2800 with 215/55r16 tires. Each year friends and I do a national car event - we're on the road for 9-10 days driving 3800 miles round trip typically running 2700 to 3000 rpm.

Keith - is 3.18 an option for an r200? I have a 3.54 and want a lower RPM on the highway with my 4L60E.

I believe the turbo vs non-turbo R200s are the same except for gear ratios. I have a 3.54 ratio which (according to the internet) is from a turbo vehicle. It didn't have limited slip so I added the Phantom Grip. So far it's holding up well after a few 1/4mile runs a day of road racing and multiple burnouts. I don't have sticky tires or a manual transmission making it more forgiving on the diff.

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to put it on the dyno again for round 2. Tough to make power in Colorado on a NA motor. That's where the turbo comes in.

She seemed good with the drive and checking the weight. Got to say I'm pretty lucky because she's supportive of the car hobby/therapy. She was the first one to mention she weighs 115lbs and I make-up the balance! Her thought is if I want a faster car I better loose some weight!

Beautiful Colorado weather today. Got the car out and logged 60 miles. Was driving by a gravel yard so I decided to pull in to check the weight of the car - I've always wondered but never verified. The scale read 3040 lbs with me and my wife. I decided to drive by the local landfill on the way home so I checked the weight there too - 3020 lbs. Subtract my wife's and my weight and the car is ~2710 lbs +/-20.

Started on the in-tank pump.

Modified a JCI transmission mount (turned it into a cantilever design). Beat the floor boards in on both sides of the transmission allowing room for 2.5" pipe which merge into a 3" single. I'm really happy with it - sits up nice and tight. The goal was to be able to remove the pan for filter service w/out removing the exhaust and not see the pipes hang down from the rear or sides of the car. You can see more photos of the mount and exhaust on my post titled "A big thank you - 240 LS Conversion." Tried to put the link in this reply and my computer locked up...

stony - Thanks for sharing the photos. This is helpful providing ideas for my turbo upgrade. I was just in the garage thinking through a radiator/intercooler support and came across your post. Keep them coming... Looks good!

Zspeed - do you have pictures of the test fit?

Two photos of mine. I notched two of the plates providing clearance for flash on the water pump casting. The location and washer thickness/qty is important to get good pully alignment. Using a laser alignment tool helps too.

Nice - I was looking hard at those too. Decided to go with OEM truck manifolds to save $. Picked these up for $50 on Craigslist. Plan is to go down and forward on my turbo setup (240Z LS1).

You bet. Feel free to ask questions along the way - glad to help if I can.

No, his name is not Jim.