Heroez

Hello Z people! I need your help. Please tell me what year 280zx you have, and if you get the 5 second fuel prime when you turn the key on. This only applies to cars with the stock EFI. Thanks for your participation.

Alternator looks good. All three fuel pump relays tested good. Ignition switch is good. I don't understand what to look at next.

Yes, the battery is new, and I was goimg to install battery cables too but the negative cable isnt readily available at the parts store. I did check the battery and got 12.5 volts. Went ahead with the relay tests in the manual. Fuel pump relay 1,2, and 3 tested good. I will look into my alternator connections like you suggested. Thanks. If I have trouble I will post again. Keep an eye on me.

Anyone?

I need an ECU for a 1980 280zx. A11 618 427 is the number. Thank you.

Hi everyone. I used to get the normal fuel prime on my 280zx, but one day it just stopped working. Its causing the car to be hard to start. Curious, I took a voltage reading at the fuel pump wiring connector under the hatch carpet. As I turned the ignition on the voltage reading was not good. 2.5 volts for maybe a half second then back to 0. I repeated the test getting varied voltage like 2-7 volts for a fraction of a second. I was looking at the diagrams in the factory service manuals, and reading about 3 fuel pump relays. If I understood correctly, fuel pump relay 1 is involved in the fuel prime. So I remove the dash box liner and check the connection to the relay. I found it to look good, no corrosion or obvious red flag. So next I replace the relay there with a new one. Still no fuel prime! Am I overlooking something? Is there a fuse or other part I should look into? I dont see a timer unit mentioned, or the ECUs role. Any suggestions?

Lets put the MN47 on it!

That is why I still have an unused MN47. I havent found anything definate. I hope to see some dyno data on that head with small vs large valves.

There is no arguement I see. The post was about combined stock parts, and avoiding extra machine work. Megasquirt, headwork, aftermarket cams are off topic but somehow relevant to the understanding, as well as being interesting. As long as you add your take on things, then you did your part, and the readers appreciate that.

I came across a mn47, and looked into it. Somewhere, maybe atlanticz.ca, that has the L engine calculator. You find out what combinations yeild. The thing I want to share is that the mn47 is like an updated e31. Its made for a 2.4 and should be modified to fit to the 2.8 by increasing the size of the head valves. This is machine shop work. So its not ideal, but I have heard people say it is the best single modification to a dished piston L28 in their opinion. Use the calculator.

Im having a problem too. My phone wont let me get to the sign in page. I get error code 2000. I tried clearing cookies, cache, and history, but no luck. Somehow the retarded sms connection is letting me get in. Time for a new phone I guess, or live without this place. This message is a test.

Thank you for the replies. I forgot about the Datsun z garage site. I suppose I didnt pose my question very well. From reading and searching I havent found the exact information I need regarding old parts. The disassembled L28 and assembled L26 were stored in a barn with the heads removed and I can see rust on the cylinder walls. I cant find mention of what to do about the rust there. Its not real bad. I suppose it could be honed out or bored to refresh that area. A few places on the outside of the block have surface rust to, which I will spot blast. From the information gathered I feel like I can move forward and check the bearings and check for broken bolts in the block.

Hello guys. Im new to the under hood stuff but not completely clueless either. Usually I would have an experienced person build my engine like I did last time. I have a desire to learn and maybe save a few bucks by getting involved in the build process. I have these parts to work with- 1 n42 L28 block which was disassembled by a mechanic to use the crank in my last engine. The rods, pistons, oil pickup tube and a few other bits that came off of it are boxed. 1 L26 block still assembled, it has the same crankshaft as the L28. I have another L28 N42 assembled with the n47 head on it. I also have a naked N42 head, E88 with no cam, Maxima N47. All of these parts have been laying around quite a while. The rods that are boxed up have a bit of surface rust on a few of them. The blocks are just typical old condition. How can I tell what is useable and what is junk? I would like to isolate the best condition parts so that they may be considered to be used in a learning project engine build. I just dont know where to start. Its not going to be a high output build. Perhaps a little work on the head, stock cam. Flat top pistons. I may source a p79 or piece together the N42 head. My instinct is to take the naked L28 block to a mechanic to be inspected. Is there any indications that I may be able to spot before loading it up? I would likely be using the crank out of the other L26 block assembly. What should I look at on that one? Just check for play at the crankshaft bearings? I can see step one is to wash the parts, but what then? Any advice on how to sort the good from bad would be helpful.

Rusty Bomb, yes it can. The difference between fiberglass and carbon fiber is just the fabric or 'mat' that is used. So it will bond just as well as fiberglass.

Cool. Keep us updated.

Still need the EC.

Hi, I need a good working ECU for a 1983 280ZX turbo with manual transmission, Federal emissions. Looking for ECU number- A18 603 580. Let me know by sending me a PM. Thanks.

That would be fine. There is much to say about the old ways. Im a big fan of the old ways myself. I still strip paint by sanding and spot blasting. Could I live without panel bond? Yes. It can be handy, but we all have gotten by fine before it was available. It would be interesting to compare the 2 techniques. It could be your top gear challenge. Which one is faster? Appearance, cost, and strength should be scored. A race inside the shop. Im sure you have been there before.

Would you like some panel bond to play with John?

Im in Georgia, PM me.

Just make miniature nonfunctional seats. That should get a laugh and the novelty of your idea across.

I have the front bumper, so Im just interested in the rear. Get me a picture when you can. Thank you for the reply. Talk to you soon.

Hey. Im looking to buy a chrome 240z rear bumper. I want one that will look good with my cars new paint job. I dont mind if the backside is rusty or the rubber strips are aged. I just need one that is not bent and the chrome is still ok. Or if you have one in great condition, thats cool too. Also would be interested in a rear facebar. Let me know what you have please.

There is clearcoat that can go over single stage. Example- PPG essentials single stage can be clearcoated with ESC600. Mixing a bit of single stage with clear for the tie coat, then a coating of straight clear. Though Ive seen it sprayed directly over it. Single stage has the clear added to it as stated above. Single stage urethane is nice and durable, and easy to work with. Adding a clearcoat is optional. Also an added expense. Plan on paying an additional 160 dollars for the esc600 kit.

I can get you ppg single stage with hardener and activator for less. Send me the paint code and I will see if I can mix it up. I would suggest single stage for a solid color.