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Everything posted by lovemstr

  1. does anyone have a shifter arm/lever for a 280z auto transmission for sale?
  2. do you have a shifter arm that bolts to auto trans for sale?
  3. I will attempt to send some pics of what I doing when I figure out how.
  4. I am retired (76 yrs) and working on a tight budget. I use things I can get cheaply and I have lots of time to fabricate/ modify whatever, therefor the pipes instead of $$$ vents, or maybe I am just really cheap.
  5. I have decided to notch the frame rails just behind the radiator cradle and fill in notch with 1/8 in plate, this should allow my rad. to drop down thru rails and clear underside of hood. I may be obsessed with keeping this car running cool. I have a used oil cooler from an RV that I may install as well. I have modified my hood to add 6 vents (3 on each side) to allow heat to exit. the vents are made from 2 3/8 in tubing I bought from Lowes (it was a post for chain link fence) you may have surmised by now that I like to do things as cheaply as possible, reuse/repurpose where I can. my engine is a mild 350 chevy, 2004r trans. car is a 76 280 that I paid $200 for, so sticking with cheap theme. so the beat goes on
  6. instead of notching the frame rails, (which I am reticent to do, for some reason) I'm now thinking of slanting the bottom of the radiator toward the engine, therefore the top would lean toward the grill. the bottom would rest atop the frame rails(with appropriate brackets, same for top of rad to cradle. a box/tunnel would be constructed from radiator cradle to front of rad. to funnel air through rad. an electric fan on back of rad. to finish. any thoughts, suggestions, opinions all would be welcome.
  7. JHM and Miles, thanks for your input. Miles what size down pipes from header flange to Y pipe are you using? your system is very clean, close to what I am planning. I plan to make my own Y pipe using a 2 1/2" cutout from speedway motors and some 45 deg. bends. 2 1/2" all the way to the rear. If I ever wanted to step it up a bit I can go with 3" from the Y on back. I'm 76 (and my wild days are over ???) now and I just want a cool cruiser.
  8. I am putting a mild 350 sbc in my 76 280z. I'm thinking of using shorty headers with 2 1/2 in collectors into 2 1/2 in y pipe with same size pipe and muffler all the way out. this car will be a street cruiser and maybe an occasional 1/4 mile blast. hoping to have something pleasant to drive on the street but a little bit of a sleeper. any thoughts suggestions?
  9. grannyknot thanks for the pics, what year z is that?
  10. I have a stock radiator shroud from a 76 280z, very good condition. $75 plus shipping.
  11. 76 280z wheel with metal rim removed and a grant rim welded to spokes and wood ttrim replaced.
  12. I got this one cheap, it is like brand new.
  13. I have this one, it is in excellent condition. no cracks no chips. spokes have a small amount of paint chipping, rattle can respray. $150 plus shipping
  14. sorry, allow me to elucidate further. I have bought an all aluminum radiator. it is 26 in. wide, which is too wide for comfort between the frame rails. I'm thinking I will notch the frame rails directly behind the rad. cradle and box in the notch with 1/8 in plate also reinforce the bottom and outside of the frame rail with 1/8 in. plate. does that sound feasible? any suggestions welcomed. thanks
  15. has anyone notched front frame rails to fit wider radiator?
  16. I would put an led bulb in the light, no heat, last forever.
  17. I started with an aftermarket Grant wheel and combined it with a standard 280Z wheel. This is the results.
  18. has anyone replaced a 280z power brake booster with one from a later model nissan?
  19. around 1977 I worked with a guy who built a 240 with 350/350 combo, I drove it (with thoughts of buying) with only 3 gears it turned way too many revs for highway driving. The real turnoff though was that it was hard to steer at low speeds .engine was installed at the scarab position. the 76 280 I am working on now has the engine set back to within 1" of the firewall (I fabbed the engine mounts), distributor is old point style with pertronix conversion. ramshorn manifolds and block hugger headers both fit without steering interference. engine is centered in engine bay. will use a 2004r trans.
  20. does anyone have the flange for sale (with 2 1/4 in. bolt spacing) that bolts to the front of the differential? please advise I'm in Atlanta,Ga. area #678 947 6636. thanks
  21. I agree with DEJA, if you are running a mechanical fuel pump on your sbc you dont need a return line.
  22. guys I am trying to do the tach modification outlined in the JTR V8Z conversion manual so the datsun tach will work with HEI dist. the book says I need a "15K ohm 1/2 watt resistor", none of the local Radio Shacks have this type resistor. I can order some online 29 cents each but they want $7 to ship them--highway robbery. does anyone have such an item I can buy?
  23. It seems to me if you have to dial out almost all your rear brakes to avoid lockup on the rear, then it's not a very well designed system, too much rear bias. Just a thought but what do I know?
  24. You might want to check out www.speedwaymotors.com look at their exhaust manifolds item #9300327 2 1/2" ramshorns item #9300300 tru ram new cast iron or stainless steel 2 1/2" manifolds WAY COOL. I don't know if they will work with your heads, they are designed to fit first gen small blocks. good luck. L
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