2eighTZ4me

How did I know I'd get a few "smart" answers! Yeah - no.... if you have that much money and want to look "European" buy a freakin' plane ticket over there and back and scarf some up locally. Insane. And no Jon, I'm not going to buy them. I can think of quite a few other places on my car where $1400 would be better used. They're all yours man!

I can buy a running car for less than this. The guy says he sees them on e-Bay for $1750, but I'm sorry, the last set I saw sold through here was around $400. I could be mistaken, but man, this sounds like price gouging. I guess if you have the money.....have at it. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/859374165.html

Yup.

Now you're talking. My wife knows better than to come outside when she hears the cussing. Your situation was exactly like mine, but I managed to keep the balancing act going throughout the install. Glad I'm not the only one that has to go through this crap!

Bump! Loads of progress. Been laying low on updates until I had something worth putting online. 3 or 4 new pages added (depending on when you last checked). Motor is in now, time for wiring. Broke the whole writeup out into sections for easier digestion and less acid reflux... And BTW - all those asking about the wheels, I cleaned them up on the inside and they are Boyd's wheels. 17x9 front and 17x11 rear. Enjoy...I'm back in the poorhouse again......

I have a Racer Brown cam (springs, retainers, etc.) that came off a running car. Lobes look ok. I have a set of factory rockers that were reconditioned by Delta Cams. Most of what I have read about seasoning a cam has to do with a new cam or a regrind - not one that's been run in another head. What steps should I follow to make sure this guy gets broken in properly? I am going to use Valvoline VR1 oil with ZDDP for the initial run for sure. Do I need to run it at 2K RPM's for 30 min. as one normally does for a new cam?

I have a 2mm multi-layered metal HG for my 3.1L stroker. Based on the searches I've done, I'm pretty sure I need to coat it with the copper coat spray for better sealing. Is there any tips/tricks to doing this to reduce any possible leakage? I don't think taking the gasket apart and coating each layer would be such a good idea, but should I focus around the edges of the bores and try to get some of it down in between the layers there? Do I let it dry completely, or shoot it and install it tacky? F54/MN47 w/ARP studs.

Myself personally - I would cherish a car like that, so if he DOES decide to sell it outside the family, you will be guaranteed that someone will love her just the way she is!

(Stands on soapbox) and be SURE you check your wipe pattern of your cam to rocker arms!! MSA is "supposed" to supply the correct thickness lash pads with the cam kit. I have read these are supposed to be .170" Like a dumbazz, I didn't check wipe pattern - thinking "hey - it's a kit - it should have everything setup already".......NOT. The lash pads actually mic'd out .005 thinner than stock (.120") pads, which threw my wipe pattern way toward the pivot, and after about 8000 miles, ground the cam into oblivion. I am taking excessive care this time around with my setup and have become completely anal about this subject - especially after eating a cam. Now that I've gone through the process a few times, it's not that bad - takes about an hour for all 12 valves, and will save yo' butt. You will also note when you get your Schneider cam, there is a yellow card with a disclaimer on it stating that you need to use one of their recommended oils that has zinc in it. They list about 7 or so brands that are acceptable. I've been running Shell Rotella T diesel oil in my DD for well over 2 years now - and it's cheap too. Some say the zinc is a "red herring", but I will go the extra mile just in case.

The obvious question that has yet to be asked... what does he want for it, and is he willing to sell it to someone outside the family......that's a nice looking car. I'd be interested if the price was right.

Those shims were put under there for a reason. Everything you described was done already. Those shims are to bring the spring seat pressure to within spec (with the Racer Brown retainers). I got the cam card that came with the Racer Brown cam and brought it to my machinist and he setup the spring pressures and installed heights exactly to what was recommended. I have since removed the stock retainers and gone back with the Racer Brown retainers after taking the Dremel to them to widen them out just a hair to accept the factory Nissan lash pads. Installed height is back to spec, as is spring pressure. I still have an issue with two rockers' wipe patterns, but will be ordering correct lash pads today to correct. I think I'm (finally!) in good shape. Thank you guys for ALL your help!

Bump.. Nobody on this site running an AZC intercooler on their S30? I find that hard to believe....????

OK, following Bryan's advice, I went with the stock retainers and kept the Racer Brown springs. I've noticed a considerable drop in installed spring height, as well as the coils being closer together. Stock retainer on left, Racer Brown retainer on right. Here's a better picture of the coil rate I'm not seeing any bind in the coils at full lift, I am able to stick a .015" feeler gauge between the middle coils - even though it looks spring bound. This is with the .200" lash pads installed. I actually have a wipe pattern that looks acceptable! I am, however, going to drop to either a .170 or .180 on #'s 6, 9, and 12 until I get it just right. So - thousand dollar question - am I going to run into problems using the stock retainers with the Racer Brown springs, being that the spring is compressed more at "rest"? The problem with the Racer Brown retainers is that the .240" lash pads fit in there fine, but give a bad wipe pattern, while the .200's that I bought from Nissan won't fit down in the bore of the top of the retainer. Do I need to go back to the Racer Brown retainers and have them machined just a wee bit more to accept the factory lash pads?? I've got so much money tied up in this head with port work, valve seats, valve job etc, that I'd hate to screw something up at high rpm. Suggestions / comments always welcomed! Let's hear it.

I have an AZC intercooler. Dave at AZC said there needed to be some modifications done to fit an S30 chassis. Does anyone have any pictures or explanations as to what they had to do to make it work through the two holes in the core support? Looks like a really nasty 90 degree bend has to take place in order to get them to fit through the holes due to the width of the unit. Also, is anyone running one of these and still keep their A/C condenser? I want to keep my A/C if at all possible.

What are you trying to get out of the motor? PM me if possible.

On a side note - I have dealt with all types of valve spring compressors until I finally saw the one John Williams was using. I got one for myself and it is, by far, the best I have found. Makes spring replacement a snap. With the head on the car. http://www.nextag.com/KD-Tools-KD-3087-511774699/prices-html

Well, as I posted earlier, I think MM KNOWS there is an issue that they won't fess up to. How come they don't have the process documented in black and white on their website? How come nobody from MM even bothers patrolling these threads to see how their product is doing? There are numerous threads on this site pertaining to this fitment problem. Any response from ANYone at MM??? Hell no. It's YOUR problem once you buy them. I wanted to get a set of the welded companion flanges and convert my 280 since I have an extra set of shafts. I sent 4 e-mails asking what their turnaround procedure is and how they want to be paid. I'm basically shaking money in my hands at them and they don't reply. Last time (when I bought the billet flanges) was some lame excuse that they only check e-mail every 3 days or so. C'mon guys, it's been over a month and they can't reply to little ol' me with cash in hand??? Their customer service SUCKS ASS!!! and their technical support is no better. Hence - they don't have a phone # listed anywhere so you can call them. That'd put them in the technical support business, and they can't afford to do that. You know they're afraid their phones would be ringing off the hook!! Rotten service!! Should be called Monkey Motorsports......

Those are indeed aftermarket rocker arms. I'm going through the whole ordeal of setting up my cam/wipe pattern now. Look at the divot on the rocker arm. The wipe pattern is way up toward the pivot side of the rocker. "Correct" wear should be near the center. I've found differences on my cam setup between cylinders that must be addressed with different sized lash pads. It's all in the archives - in fact, I posted a long thread on wipe patterns not just last week and will be updating soon. Secondly, since I ate up a Schneider cam, I did a lot of research on this. Even Schneider is now sending a note with thier cams stating to use an oil with zinc in it. There are several on the market out there listed in their note. I've been running Rotella diesel oil for quite some time now with no problems whatsoever. Oil companies have removed zinc from a lot of oils out there, and it's murder on aftermarket cams and such. Hence, Schneider is covering their assets by sending this big yellow note that falls out in your lap when you open the cam, telling you to use one of several oils that still has zinc in it. Funny that Phred mentions the aftermarket cams have a CWC casting on them. My Schneider has this casting, BUT so does my Racer Brown cam dated back to 1986. I read that Racer Brown bought all their cam blanks from Nissan, but I could be mistaken on that. I think it was jeffp who pointed out this information. Nonetheless, BEFORE you install your new cam, check the wipe pattern and adjust the wipe pattern accordingly with different thickness lash pads. I had to go from a .240 down to a .200. I'm nice and centered now, on all except 2 valves. I will have to go down to probably a .170 or .180 to get them centered back up. The geometry is just as crucial as cam hardness. Do NOT depend on the cam manufacturer to supply the correct thickness lash pads. My Schneider was supposed to come with .170's, and it turns out they shipped the cam with stock (.120) lash pads, and I, like a dodo, didn't check the wipe pattern and "ass - u -med" they were correct. Ate up two lobes in a matter of 20K mi. They looked 20x worse than what you had going on there. Keep us posted with your findings.

Does it knock at idle? I'd recommend getting a stethoscope with a metal tine on the end of it (can get at a tool store or auto parts store for cheap) - or you can use a long screwdriver and put your ear down on the end of it - with the motor running, and try to determine if the knock is coming from down low in the bottom end or up top in the head. I'm hoping you verified you had oil pressure when you ran it up to 5K - I had a Chevy 400 SB in one of my old Z's that had a bad wrist pin in the #5 cylinder that would knock at a certain rpm range - and only after it was warmed up. Not saying this is your problem, but it was mine. I'd also pull the valve cover and see if you can see anything awry. I have had a situation with an old motor in my DD that would knock like a bastage upon startup once every blue moon. Sounded like a rocker out of adjustment, but it usually went away after 2 minutes of running, so I could never track the gremlin down. Hope others chime in - that's just my personal experience with getting "knocked up".

Sweet! Thanks Bryan - that's EXACTLY what I'm looking for.

OK - well, I was hoping for information on the topic and not what types of machines you guys use. I realize it is probably important to set the valve lifts, but my concern is the lash pads and wipe patterns - most particularly, if I can get away with running the .120" lash pads without fear of screwing something up. See pics above.

OK - I took a few more pics with the .120" lash pad to get your opinions. I can't really fit a feeler gauge in between the rocker and the retainer top, but I do believe there is enough clearance to make it work without having to go do different retainers. This is the setup (adjusted to .010 lash - exh.) under full compression. Note the lobe almost dead center on the rocker. I don't see any rubbing on the top of the retainer. Also, the pivot ball is adjusted way up due to the thin lash pad, giving a greater angle and better clearance. It is difficult to get good shots due to close proximity. The above and 2 pics below are under no compression of the spring. Based on Tony D's reply, I have a few questions. 1) If I need retainers with a shorter "top", is it possible to use stock retainers in place of these - using stock keepers as well? Keeping the Racer Brown springs only. 2) Could I grind down the tops of these retainers for more clearance? 3) Should the lash pad top surface ALWAYS be parallel with the top of the retainer - meaning, are they matched somehow? (See the pic of the .240" pad above in post #1 - it's dead even with the top of the retainer) I would think not, based on the fact that you tune your wipe pattern via the lash pad, and it would be costly (and a PITA) to have to swap out retainers every time you went with a different size lash pad. I got a set of .200"'s on the way, but I like the idea of better performance and more lift as Tony mentioned by using the .120"s. I have plenty of spare stock retainers and keepers, so I have options. Just want to see "what" my options are in this situation. I'd rather leave the current retainers in place and use the .120" lash pad, as I see some clearance, but things undoubtedly change at 7500 rpm..... I don't believe I've ever seen a set of retainers with this deep of a dish (.240"). The Schneider ones definitely weren't. Thanks for all your great replies - keep 'em coming!

So - unless instructed otherwise, it looks like the .200's are in my near future. Hoping others will chime in. It doesn't seem like rocket science, but it is a very crucial step for setting up valvetrain. Thanks all!

A little background. I bought a n47 head with a Racer Brown cam kit in it. The lash pads are .240". The top retainers are deep. With the .240" lash pads (that came with the head/kit) the wipe pattern is very close to the valve side. Rockers go from 1 - 12 starting at the right and moving left. For grins, I tried a stock .120" lash pad. The wipe pattern is "better". but a little too much toward the pivot side. The .120" pad was used on the far right rocker in the pic. A potential problem I foresee, is the depth at which the stock lash pad sits down in the upper spring perch. The .120" is on the left, the .240" is on the right. Am I going to have problems here? I did Braap's trick of cutting up some feeler gauges and laying them on top of the lash pads and came up with a nice wipe at about .205" So, MSA sells them in .010" increments. Should I go with .200" or .210"? I've read other threads here on this subject, and the consensus seems to be to lean toward the pivot point, which would mean .200" Am I correct here? I also, however, read in the "How to Modify" book, that they want the contact patch dead center, which would mean going to a .210" here, as there is just a weee bit more wipe on the pivot side as opposed to the valve side. What say ye O' great builders of the coveted L series? BTW - these are resurfaced stock rockers that Delta Cams did. I measured about a .035" difference in thickness of the pad between one of the "new" units I got from MSA and the re-surfaced one from Delta. Is this going to throw off cam geometry when it's all said and done? I performed all wipe patterns at .008" clearance intake and .010" clearance exhaust. I now know why my first Schneider cam got munched. MSA is supposed to sell the cam kits with .170" lash pads - I got stock lash pads (actually .115") with my kit. Now I know better to do the wipe pattern - hey - everybody screws up a few times!

What's the name of the shop and address? Might take a spin up there myself!