PMC raceengines

Hi A trick i like to do is mig weld a nut on the broken stud , the heat helps the stud come free .Put a 10mm nut over the top and weld the two tegether wate till it cools and just work it back and forth

just ask wolf .or ask EFI hardware in mitchem melb there wolf dealers and nice people

More pics of todays work , made the oil pump bracket and started on the inlet manifold ,

Well im putting the FJ20 back in the zed, but i need to make some parts so though id put some pics up and show the fj20 off. Not to many in the US but there a great motor and i love them this one will make 600hp engine and will run E85 ,i will post pics as i build new parts hope you like the build. first post the new dry sump just finished it, i will have it all cleand up and painted tomorrow

because the cams have to spin at half crank speed, the cam gears would need to be the same size as nomal L28 with a chane.so to make them smaller you need a idler gear and 2 chanes and this makes for slack chanes and bad timing for the cams not so good for high rpm . So with the gear drive you can make the cam gears smaller and make the hole lot fit under the cover and have very stable cam timing at high rpm ... well thats why the LZ was gear drive i gess OS built there setup like this for the same reasion. And the 10000 rpm they spin it to

Yep pump gas 98oct power well on my engine dyno i hope to see 350hp my dyno reads very hard , a good L28 race motor on my dyno reads 310hp Parts list the stroker kit is my own i make it from a rb30 crank offset grind to 89mm honda size egle rods 137mm , forged 90 mm piston 1,2 1,2 3mm rings 3cc bump i make a new flywheel to sute n42 block torque plate honed, releaved and painted internal, decked to clean ARP studs main and head 7in race balancer ally sump, turbo oil pump new timing chane and guides, adj timing gear wade cams 310d 600th 106c hsd valve springs and ally retaners head is a p90 that flows 360hp 237cfm at 28in at 600th 46mm valve big port inlet manifold OER style 50mm webers It will be a strong top end power band 4000 to 8000rpm i have made the pipes to suit, will put more pics up soon

Some pics of the 3.4 stroker ,this one will have a P90 head with 10.9 comp

Like you said Tony thats a bear head ,theres 2 cams and springs and retaners and valves ,2 cam gears 2 rocker covers and timing chane new timing cover 6 new pistons to make it work with the new valve angle . and all the engine parts to make it live at 8500rpm ....

Mate its a big job to make it all work ,but i love the chalange and know how well it will work .i have done 3 4 cylinder L20 twin cams with the KA head and they make incredable hp NA with a port that flows the same numbers as my head .So id love to see how you go with your build. I will get pics up real soon ..

Hi mate I have seen a man in japan do it with a single cam rb20 head , but he made a new timing chane cover and made the oil reterns line up in the rear of the head . but my version is a race setup and i wonted a dry sump so i went a diffrent path, as i had made the frunt cover redundent i hade to make the sump shorter , and i wonted even water temps along the hole motor so i started from scrach ... So your idear sounds a lot more practical ,and hope it all works out the chamber is so large on the TC RB its hard to get the comp up for a NA ,thats the reasion i had to go so big with the stroker kit , and the piston still needs a 18cc bump to get the comp where i need it ,

Hi mate the block idear is good but so expencive i did one for a FJ20 we made it 2.6 but,the cost was mad and we did not see the resolts we wonted , and the 3.35 we have works so well as it is. and we are trying to keep it cheep as we can

OK i start with a 85mm RB30 crank and i have it offset ground and i use a honda H beam rod thats 137mm long .Then i have the front of the crank welded up , and then grind it the same as a L engine . theres lots more to it but thats what i do . I then make a new flywheel thats in the kit when i sell them ,as the RB is shorter than a L series and i will get more pics up soon ok

HEHEH i think they would not be so cool if every one had one . and you can get a single cam with more hp cheep in the US , ask Tony for the shops name .

I hear you, the creep was not a problem i asked the motec for 18psi and thats what i got ,but one 35/40 with a 86 rear housing well do the job just nice

I have tapped the block for RB bolts mate . this thred is now a joke feel free to get rid of it.

Hi mate The turbos are -5 garret and the dump pipes are HKS what i spent lots of time porting ,there are better pipes out there

You guys lol. Over the next weeks i will build a stroker 3.35L bottom end 89mm stroke and 89mm bore with a p90 race head and 47mm OER carbs and i will go thro all the steps to show how it goes together, with all the block prep and grinding . And i will go thru all the parts and specs so u can do it over there ,i dont need to sell the 3.35 3.4 its just so you can see what is out there, please lets get on with the car stuff on this thred please ,we are all big boys and can take a bit of sh t now and then lets move on ok thanks pmc

It was a mad car back when it was racing , it was the best GTR in the world at the time .. and the most expencive,lol .Gibson motorsport had the best of everything at that time, that car cost 1.3m to build ,from the chat around the lunch table the RB26 cost 120k per engine ,

Hi Just got home from the dyno big day ... 477kw 18psi 7500rpm 525fp torque will have new youtube in the next days

OK boys it all good i said sorry about the hp chat lets move on . i dont mind Tony having his say ,we will move on and make Datos go faster ,thats what we all wont . PS the red 1 car still races in that class Tony and they still can not catch it ..

heheh i built the car .... well not just me i worked there for 5 years, and the head is of that car

I realy have just made the water system like the RB for ease, and it was the only thing i could do realy ,the cold water will go in to the block and out thru the top hose like the RB .And it will have 3 bleed hoses out of the inlet manifold ,are they needed mmm dont know yet , As for the oil pump i have a ausy pump ,a friend makes them for me its a 4 stage unit . I will have 2 in the sump 1 in the head and i for vac also in the sump

Hi mate love the car ,nice work The -5 turbos are very good but do take a bit of tuning on a 26 and can surge at part throtel around 3500rpm ,some people dont mind ,but im a bit fussy , -10 are not very nice for the same reasion ,at the track they are great with 25psi and 8000rpm but not so hot for street driving . With RB30 -10s are mad and smoke the wheels all day ,for a zed on the street -7 are the best for 26 no lag fun and fast and very nice to tune btw love the rips inlet looks tops, will be heaps easyer to tune ,good luck with your project will be a rocket

The rear oil reterns have to be welded up as they dont line up .as its drysumped i have used a stage off the pump to remove oil from the rear of the head. By removing the rear plug ,like most RB engines extra oil retern kits. The water pump was the more of a chalange , well not the pump the water in to the block as the Lsearies pump wont work as there is no frunt cover ,so i have removed the welsh plugs from left hand side of the motor ,and made a cooling chanel that feeds the hole side of the block ,and used a electric water pump to feed it .i will take some pics of it to day.