PMC raceengines

Like i said the motec is very good it has a blending program for injectors all you do is tell it what AFR you want and tell it the injector size and your away, you dont have to be smart lol it works it out, but if your trying to drive 2500hp on the street it wont be a nice smoth drive as soon as the throtal is down the wheels spin and you can not feel what is going on , if you have the man that built the system helping you , you will work it out

Well you dont know me very well HowlerMonkey i have built a 2000hp 3.4L 6 with 18 injectors that run 6.70 210mph with a motec , now days we run 2 2000cc injectors in this setup

OK 2000hp ?

made the oil lines tonight getting close now

Well done mate good luck for the dyno

We only use motec at les collins racing for our ECUs , there just so good and there is no gap in the tune as the injectos change its just that good of a system , pmc

For the last 5 years all out big rpm RB26 engines we have removed the oil jets , its helped keep the mains and big ends alive and we have not lost a piston yet and we are making well over 1000hp and 10000 rpm. We were rebuilding them every time we raced and now every seasion, and also our turbos are not failing as often . pmc

Hi josh817 well its not much of problem as there is a low set of injectors as well , they do up to 4000rpm and then the top set come in. And there is very little stand off, it gets better as it gets higher in rpm , also we have them so we can move them in or out .

Iv sent some extra shims around the size you need just in case should be there next week , good luck and have some fun with it all the hard work will pay off

Im building a 96mm stroke L6 and was thinking has this been done before , If so how did it all go thanks pmc

Hi all this one is L18 BUT ITS 2.3L with a KA24 head We make the crank and crank gear , the tenchener is a L28 type that we feed oil to the slack side is SR 20 , we drill and tap the block to fit it, there is lots of work in there ... This engine makes 300hp on the engine dyno and we now make a 2.6L from a z24 block that is a real torque monster

Just playing with the idear of chain drive like the L4S we do just to make it diffrent

No there not thermostats , the water passes thro them in to the block thro the core plug holes on the manifold side i remove the core plugs and fit it in there place , so the hole block gets cool water , there is no factry water pump now its blocked off. i will post more pics and show how it all works soon .

Im testing it both ways Tony at the moment the water is going in the block , but next week i will be reverse flowing the water so in the head and out the block, i think it will work even better that way . I will be making it a one peace ally thing when it all works.

Hi this problem has had me flat out for weeks and i have nearly got it sorted i have made some new parts up to feed the block along the hole side of the block to get cool water along the back cylinders along with head mods i have got the egt equel on all cylinders and will soon have it ready for race testing . hear are some pics. And i can not take the credit for the idear the bloke that did this 20years ago never finnished it i just found it and thought wowo that might work The idear is to run a electric water pump in to the side of the block and then remove the water out of the head like a FIA head , so far its working very well , in testing i have been able to get my 3.3 stroker to run flat out for long full lode tests with stable 180f temps ,motor is making 360hp engine on pump fuel 36deg of timing at 11.comp .

The 13in one makes power at 4500 to 7500 with a cam with 260@50 310d 550lift and is very strong at 6000rpm max hp at 6500 and will hold to 7500 in a L28 29 with 10.5 comp + The long runer makes max power at 5800 and will fall over after so its good for the road cars, very good torque at 3500 with a mild cam There are many things that can change the rpm that the intake works , but these are what i end up with on the dyno most times

The L motor really needs around 13in of inlet runner to give good torque , from the tip of the trumpet to the port face , and for a road car i try and make them as long as i can, trumpets 120mm long. Close to 15in long runner on a L28 29 . If the runner is to short it will reject a lot of fuel at 4000+ .

Thats them there not cheep but there very well made

There EFI Hardware in vic Melb and yes there tapered 48 45 43 and there very well made

JUST like this one lol 13.3 comp 320d cam power to 8400rpm 2.9L and idle is like a stock one

I have most of them and can get the rest and send them to you if you want PM me if you can not get them in the US thanks pmc

50mm SOLEXES. 50mm of the best ,the sound off these at 8000rpm in top gear is just to much for some , Im one of them , just the other day i was out in a 360hp L33 at top rpm and i was in heaven And yes the ports are 40mm at the head flange face , a 39mm valve will fall thro the port and go thro the valve seat .

That they are the port face is 40mm so they fit my race port on the p90 very well , on our 3.3 stroker they work so well power comes on at 4000 and goes to 8000 rpm . But on a L28 they are for drag race only power from 6000 to 10000 with 50mm carbs or itb.

Haha i have to do 3 a week its a pain in the bottom lol , 1 thing i will tell you about getting it right is you should use 2 sets of feeler gages 1 on each side of the bucket,, or you wont get a good reading , in the nissan manual it says to do it this way ,but most dont and never get it right , The bucket rockes and moves the shim with 1 feeler gage ,with two it make the shim sit flat on the valve and gives the right reading . have fun lol

Well i think on a L24 or even a mild L28 the short manifold is ok as a street car , they drive very nice , AS for a race car iv not run one , i like the 50mm style for my big port race motors as they save lots of time on porting ,