PMC raceengines

Stay with the V6 and engine size 3.4. Run a dry sump, and run 2 gt28 76r turbos and get a real engine man to port the heads and fit the cams and your there ,,, sounds easy good luck

Well i read how to modify your nissan and datsun ohc engine more than once lol straight from that book With a 2-3in. micrometer, measure the main bearing journal . adjust the dial bore gage with the micrometer set to journal diameter . Measure bearing ID in three places-vertical, and at 45 to vertical on each side . exchange the bearing shells as needed to achive 0.0022 -0.0027in clearince. This is how you do it its slow and not fun but it the only way . you can not do the job with plastigage . ONE thing you must check is that the tunnel is right and the caps have not been hit with a hamer to fit , more than once i have seen the rear cap out of round . once the block is right make shore the crank is straight and round , and thats not that offten the case ... Also i have a dimond laping plate and i work the thrust bearings to get exact end play , there are little things that can make a difrence like sharp edges and lips on caps that can lift bearings'. Its a job that you get better as you go, lots of years to get the feel you need to build a race wining engine

Yer its the brake away that takes 14foot/ pounds , after its moving its lots less , but the crank by its self should spin free with a finger . With the rear main seal in

Well i spend some times, hours to make my race cranks spin , working in 10ths to get where im happy lapping thrust berings and swoping berings is normal , as its so hard to get a crank thats right after its been played with by so called pros that have crap standards . BUT when its right the crank spins free with a finger , then move on to the next part , rings must have the same tension and gap , bores must be strate and round ,it all adds up . A short motor will tern by hand ,, 14,lbs of force is nice . i have tested the twin idler and normal guide back to back , to 8000rpm on a super flow engine dyno , there was a hp gain at 6500 4hp to be exact and 7500 was 6hp up and 8000rpm was up 7.5 hp ,,, but as a street engine that rpms to 5000 dont bother.

Some pics of todays dyno sesion more to come as the pipes stoped the fun at 350hp at 7000 rpm, 3.35 comp was 10.3

Yes thats right most aftermarket RB head gaskets are ,it will work fine for you

Yes 1.2mm is the go. I like the nitto head gasket it is a stoper type and i have not had one fail . The commetic one is not as nice and i have had more than one have problems at high boost .

Just knowing what head its got means nothing ,,, You need real facts how many cc is the chamber . How big is the head gasket in ccs, is the piston positive dec hight. Who can tell over a computer its up to a engine builder to check and do real tests

mmm lots of guessing work going on ,, And its not a guessing game. Comp ratio is measured not guessed and you have to have the head off to do it proply

Hi phil you say in the vidio that you are using a ebay ss manifold ,,, dont do it mate there not cool, i have had to repear so many turbos because the manifolds come apart inside , the stanles is cheep and not up for the job, and will cost you more in the long run, do your self a faver and dont buy cheep ebay rb parts , we are swomped with them over hear ,i dont let them near any thing i build , real manifolds like 6boost and some that are made in the US are the only way to go , not only are they made better boost responce is better, you can run the same power at lower psi .. there very cheep for a reasion there crap

In Aus the fuel was not as good we had 2 fuels back then reg and super , and most people were to tight to pay for super and most cars pinged very badly ... so most car makers droped comp and made new heads, it was mad in the 80s head gaskets and head repers all day ever day ,all from pore fuel

.63 is fine for the street and low boost 14psi its great , but try and push it and the pressher in the exhaust manifold goes crasy , as a tuner i like the .86 with 3in out let and external gate you can take this setup to 20 psi on pump fuel and see 340kwaw and is strong from 3000rpm all the way to 7500

OK i will give you the part no and spec this is what i go to for 300kw atw, full boost at 3500 strong all the way to 7000 18psi 300kwaw on RB25 ... and order it with .82 rear housing t3 and 3in outlet best rb25 turbo for street and track PN 700382-12 CHRA pn 7001777-7 trim 76.20 AR 60 ind whl DIA 57.00

there are lots of gt30s not all good . gt3071 gtx3071 gt30 , gt30 76 gtx3076r , it goes on the gt30 range has a wide range of hp, the 3076 is the one to have and the gtx has the new frunt wheel and spools very fast

garrets main web page ,, btw the gtx3076 is even better but costs a bit more , all gt3076 have no rear housing you have to order the rear to sute your needs . try garret by huneywell and go to products

you can order it with t3 flange ,,,there are lodes off rear housings for them i like the 3in outlet v band

no its lots smaller than 3540 and much stronger in the mid range. it will come on 800rpm better than the 3540, the gt35 starts to go at 4000 and will go well all the way to the red line and will make lodes of power ,but there a bit slow to respond its, a much better turbo on a 3L rb30

I like to fit the gt30.76R for the RB25 comes on strong and is lodes of fun to drive ,, i like to have the .82 rear housing ,with 3in exh and good cooler and tune 280 kwatw at 16psi

hehhe i had to work on them every day in the 80s dam they were crap ,,, holden vk what a shiver box

go the 25 box mate there tuff as, have a RB30 making 550kwaw and it loves it, the 25 and z32 box are the best nissan made very strong boxes

looks good phil i just went throw all the sump work on a frends 240 . Your lucky the rb26 is lots harder as the oil picup is in a difrent spot in the block makes it very hard to make a pickup work in the rear, hears one i made with external oil pic up and 7L oil, lots of work to make one right. Think i will give the bloke a call next time

Some head pics will put more up with the flow sheets tomorrow

Works out to the same torque per L as a ford BDG twin cam and BDA . and there torque cerve is very flat 94fp per L is as good as it gets in the real world .... and the best L searies on my dyno made 85fp per L

NO i think you have it Wrong. i ment weld a nut to the stud and just remove it and replace it with a new stud . its just a methed to remove the broken stud

hehe thats the only way they come ,,, if you have a friend with one or a exhaust shop save you having to drill and taping , it realy works well